79cord
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,616
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Mar 18, 2018 10:15:34 GMT
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Supporting the burgundy carpet in the Rover. Did exactly the same in my Integra when I could only get grey rather than original black carpets. Adds a reasonably understated but obvious flair when moderated by dark seats without being too brash like a brighter red. Red footwell lights or background to Rover logo on s.wheel?
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Last Edit: Mar 18, 2018 11:10:50 GMT by 79cord
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orangecords
Part of things
yawner extraordinaire
Posts: 892
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Mar 18, 2018 16:28:54 GMT
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I love those Rover seats. I had a 94 420GSi with full grey leather. simoly the most comfy seats Ive ever had the pleasure of parking my fat on!
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I then wanted to start cleaning the interior as it stinks of wood (the material not the smell of a boner) best quote ever!
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,270
Club RR Member Number: 146
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Mar 19, 2018 16:48:48 GMT
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It's amusing seeing little bits in the Honda interior of a totally different car that are just like what's in the Rover. The petrol flap and boot release unit on the inner sill there looks exactly the same as the one on the Rover. If you hadn't said, I wouldn't have known that carpet wasn't factory in there, it looks right against those seats and nicer than the usual grey or black.
R8 seats best seats. The only seats more comfortable for me driving long distance have been BX seats, but I wonder if some of that was helped by the sublime BX suspension. Princess seats are nice short distance, but they haven't a lot of support so you tend to end up a bit hunched after a hundred miles or so.
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,270
Club RR Member Number: 146
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Mar 20, 2018 19:10:52 GMT
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Let's fix an oil leak today. I know Princesses are supposed to have oil leaks as part of their total loss oil rust prevention system, but I've swapped that out for underseal and welding on this car which seems to be working better for me so far. In all seriousness, the only oil leak I was aware of since doing the big clutch work and selector rod seals was from the spade connector end of the oil pressure switch. I'd bought a replacement switch online for a mere £4.44 delivered, it's a fairly common part on a lot of vehicles, it seems. If you want to make life easier, remove the belts from the engine first. I find this isn't necessary if you're careful and you can thread a 14mm open ended spanner into the gap to get to the adaptor that screws into the oil filter housing thing. 20180320-01 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr With patience, it unscrews and then you can remove the adaptor with the sender still in it. Be sure to disconnect from the loom at the other end, of course. You will find the oil in the filter comes out when you do this which is unavoidable because of the way things are designed. The oil hasn't been in very long and is already looking quite dark so I'll be doing another oil change later this year I suspect. 20180320-02 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr With the adaptor removed, pop it in a vice to make the next bit easier. I actually find it easier to do this way rather than trying to hold the adaptor on the car and unscrew the sender from it because of access. The sender is a 24mm spanner job. Here I've already fitted the new one, with the old one resting in the vice gap since the thread is thinner than the adaptor, obviously. 20180320-03 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr Refitting the adaptor is quite fiddly but providing you take care and don't force anything, you're not going to risk damaging any threads. I cleaned off the spilled oil with some degreaser and did the errands for the day, including sticking some fuel in. I was surprised to see I've done over 50 miles since the last fuel up, I really didn't think I'd done that much running about over the last few days. On getting home I had a look and there are no oil leaks. The wetness here is water, rather than oil. 20180320-04 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr 20180320-05 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr I'm happy with that. The new switch works too, which I was sure to check, and I've kept the old one in a labelled box, in case of emergencies. Perhaps a little superstition too, since I'm convinced that every time I dispose of something functional but less than perfect I end up needing it and cannot get one.
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melle
South West
It'll come out in the wash.
Posts: 2,006
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Mar 20, 2018 22:20:13 GMT
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Have you checked the new sender has the same pressure rating as the old one? Some manufacturers apparently colour code them.
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www.saabv4.com'70 Saab 96 V4 "The Devil's Own V4" '77 Saab 95 V4 van conversion project '88 Saab 900i 8V
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,270
Club RR Member Number: 146
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I have not, but the light comes on and goes off exactly the same as it did with the old one so I'm assuming it's okay.
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,270
Club RR Member Number: 146
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Mar 21, 2018 16:48:00 GMT
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Good news and odd news today. Good news is that the new clutch hose was in fact correct this time and by the time I'd done my errands and got to the unit, Mike had already fitted it. The other good news is that the new hose made bleeding the clutch hydraulics much easier, lending credence to the theory that the old hose was knackered. 20180321-01 by Angyl Roper, on Flickr The odd news is the clutch. I'm going to break this down into a little list to hopefully explain it a bit better, there might be something obvious I'm missing. Gear selection with engine running - No gears will select. Fourth is the only one that makes an audible protest with a grinding noise, 1-3 and reverse won't even let you put the stick in the gate. Gear selection with engine off - perfectly fine. Starting car in gear - perfectly fine, in all gears. This was done just with the gear selected and a flick of the key, I didn't try to drive it like this. Pedal feel - positive and like a clutch should feel. Pumping the pedal makes it very firm and difficult to push, as you'd expect of a healthy system. From the information in the various manuals we've got with the car, Mike and I suspect either something in the clutch is stuck or the clutch itself is worn out. I don't especially want to pull it apart and do a clutch change at the moment, especially if it's a big or expensive job. Clutch arm operation - as described in the book with no adjustment left to make and no obvious signs of excessive wear that might reduce travel. Even operating the arm manually (big pry bar) to force maximum mechanical travel and thus remove the hydraulics from the equation resulted in the same lack of gear selection when engine was running. This is why I don't think it's hydraulics related or air trapped in the system. I'm actually annoyed about my mixed feelings about this car at the moment too. I did find if I sit on only half the driver's seat with my bum nearly on the handbrake, I can actually use all the controls comfortably. That's not ideal for actually driving the thing. It started up on the first flick of the key, even after being left alone outside for ages in all weathers. It's such a willing and charming little thing I'm disproportionately sentimentally attached to it! I am really fond of this little car and while realistically it is going to have to go before I move house this year, I really don't want it to go to someone that's just going to pull it to bits or worse. This is stupid because it is just a car, obviously, but I have the feels and like the Princess, there's something about this little car that makes me want to persist with it.
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Phil H
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,448
Club RR Member Number: 133
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Mar 21, 2018 17:31:24 GMT
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Sounds like the friction plate has stuck to the flywheel - classic symptoms as all the “feel” is from the pressure plate which is doing its job.
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,270
Club RR Member Number: 146
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Mar 21, 2018 17:34:08 GMT
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Big job to sort? I don't really want to be getting into clutch changes and the like on this given the time I've got available.
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,325
Club RR Member Number: 64
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Mar 21, 2018 19:34:44 GMT
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The clutch isn’t stuck, because that would prevent you starting it in gear. I suspect the flywheel face and pressure plate are sufficiently rusty, from lack of use, that they are causing appreciable drag, meaning the engine is spinning the input shaft enough, even with the clutch disengaged, to cause the selection issue.
The answe should be simple. First warm up the engine and get it idling nicely with no choke, then turn it off. Put the car in first gear, depress the clutch, start the engine again. Then, slowly let the clutch out to the biting point, and hold it, slipping, for a few seconds. Push it back in, then repeat. After a few times, see if you can take it in and out of gear easily with the engine running. If you can’t, just repeat the process. If all is now well, drink beer.
The “offset” driving position was a well known gripe with the ADO16 range. You either get used to it, or buy something else.
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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The Doctor
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 3,445
Club RR Member Number: 48
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Mar 21, 2018 20:18:33 GMT
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While I agree with everything you said, I'm not convinced that the clutch isn't stuck. I've started cars in gear multiple times when the clutch hydraulics gave up a long way from home.
It all sounds like a stuck clutch to me.
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,325
Club RR Member Number: 64
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Mar 21, 2018 20:55:22 GMT
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While I agree with everything you said, I'm not convinced that the clutch isn't stuck. I've started cars in gear multiple times when the clutch hydraulics gave up a long way from home. It all sounds like a stuck clutch to me. Agreed, up to a point. Angyl says it’ll start in gear, but that he didn’t try moving it. If the clutch was stuck he’d have definitely moved when he started it in gear.
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,270
Club RR Member Number: 146
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Mar 21, 2018 21:53:35 GMT
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I think I might have confused things. If you start it in gear, it moves in the direction of that gear, in all five gears. You can't depress the clutch pedal or the clutch arm to stop it doing this.
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,325
Club RR Member Number: 64
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Mar 21, 2018 22:18:16 GMT
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I think I might have confused things. If you start it in gear, it moves in the direction of that gear, in all five gears. You can't depress the clutch pedal or the clutch arm to stop it doing this. In that case, your clutch is stuck to the flywheel. Disassembly is one option, but they can often be freed by either starting in first gear, and driving forward against the brakes around the yard with the clutch pedal fully depressed. It is also worth trying the following method: select fourth gear, handbrake and footbrake full on, clutch down and try starting the engine.
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,325
Club RR Member Number: 64
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Mar 21, 2018 22:21:17 GMT
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If a strip down is the only option, it’s not a massively difficult job. It’s at least thirty years since I did a 1300 clutch, but if I could manage it at eighteen, in the road outside my mate’s parents house, in the pouring rain, I’m sure you’ll be fine.
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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Mar 21, 2018 22:33:07 GMT
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Easiest way is drive it around the yard in 1st gear but with clutch depressed. Brake/accellerate hard (space permitting) and it will sooon break free.
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,270
Club RR Member Number: 146
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This all sounds very promising, thanks guys I won't get chance to faff about with it until Friday at the earliest because of work commitments but I'll definitely give this a go.
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vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,270
Club RR Member Number: 146
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Mar 22, 2018 19:25:17 GMT
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Mike had a go at this today, he had some free time to fill. He reports that it will not free off at all and that he persisted as long as he could with it. Sounds like it's properly jammed together so dismantling it to inspect is probably the next step.
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Rich
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,320
Club RR Member Number: 160
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Mar 22, 2018 23:08:48 GMT
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Mike had a go at this today, he had some free time to fill. He reports that it will not free off at all and that he persisted as long as he could with it. Sounds like it's properly jammed together so dismantling it to inspect is probably the next step. We get this on the 40's lorries a lot. I had to do 4 laps of the field in the Austin K5 gun portee before it would let go, and that's a heavy thing with a 17 pounder gun on board. If possible have another go, it's certainly easier than taking it apart
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I agree, it will let go eventually.
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