Rob
Posted a lot
You know, for kids!
Posts: 2,515
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May 16, 2007 20:27:29 GMT
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Hello. So - we've all seen it "1959 _____ Rover V8 / Viva Front / Jag Rear" I'm planning quite a major re-work of the pickup running gear. So... the question is - what do people recommend as front ends - independent as I want to lose the inner wings. And rears... Jag rears - what versiona and what ratio to look for ? Volvo axles - same questions...  Come on then. Step up.  PS: thanks to all who contributed to my "how do I set my car up" thread yesterday - I blew it up* that night and limped it to a friend's garage ! Can't avoid a set up now. * Not sure of the damage yet but it followed some rather energetic rubber burning antics ! :s |
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Right, you already have an independant front end, it just means that the wheels are able to move wthuout deflecting the other wheel.
What you want is a double wishbone system with coilovers, that means you can lose the inner wings.
What I'd be tempted to do is talk to one of the kit car manufacturers who do "Cortina like" but lighter and tougher IFS systems to bolt into kit cars - some of the hot rodders also use them. IIRC they can be adh=justed for width when you order them.
Pop Browns do a Viva IFS replacement which is double wishbone sytsem designed for Pops etc might be an option.
None of these options is exactly "low buck".
cutting the front clip out of a Viva or Cortina might be the way forward if you're up for the fabrication. But by the time you've refurbished it all and messed about I bet you've spent much of the cost of a kit car IFS...
Jag rears - well the old type XJ6/XJ12 and Daimler equivalents, Mk10, 420G, 420, S-Type, E-Type and XJS are the cars to look under for that. They use the common Salisbury 4HU diff and a good choice of ratios and POWRLOK if its a V12. Later XJ40 and X300 cars use a weaker design with a more clumsy looking frame and wishbone setup. None of these were done factory with an LSD, they use traction control instead due to the fact that cars like the XJ-R would break the diff or axle if it locked...
Look on NSRA and in Custom Car etc as there are often narrowed Jag IRS's for sale.
I think the Volvo axles will all be a bit wide for what you want. Gettinng them narrowed properly is getting difficult and expensive. Best option to check would be a 240 and see how close the width is or not.
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Last Edit: May 17, 2007 8:54:10 GMT by akku
1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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you don't need the inner wings anyway for marina front suspension?
you'll have to add in a some tube to replace the strength you lose so you can always pick up a damper mount on that, the torsion bar suspension is mounted under the seats and runs forwards under the chassis rail if i remember right so its a pretty convenient set up already.
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Volvo back as my main squeeze, more boost and some interior goodies on the way.
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Yeah, for soem reason I was thinking of struts... DUH
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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Rob
Posted a lot
You know, for kids!
Posts: 2,515
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May 17, 2007 21:31:44 GMT
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you don't need the inner wings anyway for marina front suspension? The damper is mounted directly to the inner wing... ?  You mean I could mount them to a new sub-structure ?v Also - I meant 'stand alone' rather than independent. My terminology is onlybnormally used / heard by :Dme ! |
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a riser, suitably gussetted to the front frame rail or to the tubular reinforcemnt you have to put in when you cut the inners out. I'll see if I can find a photo of what I mean. You dig?
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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John
Part of things
Posts: 347
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May 18, 2007 14:28:55 GMT
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I would avoid the Jag IRS. Its very heavy, not particularly easy to adjust the geometry and when narrowed the wishbones are too short.
If you really want IRS then get an MX5 and unbolt the rear subframe and bolt it in. When you see it you will fall about laughing with joy as the subframe is just so nice and ripe for a transplant. If the diff is too weak graft in a Sierra 7.5"
For a live axle the Volvo is a good choice. Narrowing is easy. The case is straightforward then get custom made shafts from such as Hauser or from the states.
The front is more awkward. Again you could try using the MX5 subframe but you will need inner wings to support the top strut mounts.
Alternatively look at the kit cars for a supply of parts.
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May 18, 2007 14:39:41 GMT
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What you say of MX5 rears is very much of interest. I had been wondering as I do like the way they drive...
Off to form more evil plans...
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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May 18, 2007 15:34:06 GMT
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and to top it all the MX5 comes with a Limited slip diff !
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Last Edit: May 18, 2007 15:34:35 GMT by andyb64
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John
Part of things
Posts: 347
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v8lee
Posted a lot
FoMoCoMoFo
Posts: 1,045
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If you want a ready narrowed Jag IRS you could do worse than to give Julian at Pop Parts Plus a ring (cue lots of slagging off of PPP) as he's always got loads of different length driveshafts and top / bottom arms to give you the length you need (oo-err-missus!). You'll also be wanting the custom tie bars, etc. to lose the stock mounting cage as they look pig ugly with that still attached. Again, Julian will help. Also, if you get an axle that has been previously used on a hot rod it's likely to have lots of chromey bits.
It is true that Jags are getting a bit old and out dated now. If you are set on an IRS then what about Granadas, BMWs, Sierras, Omegas, etc? At least the bits are readily available.
Personally I would stick with a live axle. Most yanks are easily narrowed and will handle plenty of power, but if weight is an issue and your engine isn't huge power then maybe a 2.8i / 3ltr Capri or Volvo will do.
Another good possibility is a late (post '86) Mustang 5ltr axle. Quite compact, Ford 4 stud, loads of different ratios and should have an LSD.
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No more old cars
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Rob
Posted a lot
You know, for kids!
Posts: 2,515
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May 19, 2007 12:00:36 GMT
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MX5 ! wow... not on my list at all... There's an MX5 breaker / specialist in Donny (no doubt hugely expensive tho) Are they all limited slip diffs ? It looks like a really nice unit and I guess tuing parts coming out of their ears !? Might have to nip down with a tape measure  Thanks everyone - really ace ideas there |
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Rob
Posted a lot
You know, for kids!
Posts: 2,515
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May 19, 2007 12:20:33 GMT
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4x100 PCD too... plenty of choice ! |
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I had heard from a couple of folks that they were having difficulty getting anyone to narrow a live axle for them, many of the "usual suspects" saying nope, only interested in selling custom driveshafts or turnkey 9" Ford aftermarket units.
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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hmmmm...definitely something to file away in my brain for future use...
what are mx-5 setups rated at? they're about 120bhp stock aren't they?
could work out cheaper/more effective than a manta/piazza setup for a shuv/kadett...
*n
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Top grammar tips!
Bought = purchased. Brought = relocated
Lose = misplace/opposite of win. Loose = your mum
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burns
Part of things
Posts: 373
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Probably more effective, but it would mean fabricating mounts to tie it all into the chassis. I can't remember what the back of the chevettes like but I think it has rails coming off the ends of the sills. Presumably you would do something involving lots of steel box section...
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May 21, 2007 10:01:13 GMT
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The MX5 rear end stands up to various supercharger and turbo conversions so I guess it must be at least "medium duty" as stock.
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Last Edit: May 21, 2007 10:01:23 GMT by akku
1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,958
Club RR Member Number: 174
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May 21, 2007 10:05:46 GMT
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Yep seen 250bhp+ MX5's so should be fine.
Matt
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May 21, 2007 12:50:53 GMT
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from the owner of a blown mx5:
"Two type of LSD on the MX5, Torsen and the Viscous.
The viscous one is pants and will tear itself apart quickly, even with slight power upgrades it tends to go bang!
The Torsen LSD is the one to have, i have a friend running 300bhp and similar torques through it without any issues.
Mine is a torsen, i wouldn't have anything else, as stated its fitted to the iS models."
so anyone got an iS '5 in their local scrappy and wants to test it...? ;D
*n
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Top grammar tips!
Bought = purchased. Brought = relocated
Lose = misplace/opposite of win. Loose = your mum
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