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I am about to move into my new place which means I will finally have the space to get cracking with my BMW 02 project.
I want to get the shell blasted, as it is in a bad way and needs major TLC, so I think best to get it right back to the metal and start again. I have located a guy who will do the blasting at my place with retified glass.
I will totally strip the car to the bare shell and mount it on a rotisserie. But I am not too sure what I need to do once the car is stripped back to the metal, to stop further corrosion and flash rust, etc.
I have tried reading up on the subject and it is a minefield, so can someone give me some definitive advice on bare metal restoration. The car will be blasted indoors and will remain in there afterwards, but it is just a slab concrete double garage, so is not weather sealed, etc.
My plan was to get the car blasted, epoxy primer, then go at the metal work repairs (lots of it) floor, sills, boot floor, etc. But...
My questions are:
1). Would I be better off doing local paint removal and repairing the large obvious areas BEFORE getting the car blasted ? Then doing any further work afterwards ? Which hopefully would be minor repairs ?
2). Just get it blasted, then straight into epoxy primer and THEN do ALL the repairs.
3). Get it blasted, do ALL the repairs, THEN epoxy primer (But it may take weeks/months to do the repairs)
4). NONE of the above....Do it like this.........explain please ?
Thanks guys....and girls. |
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Last Edit: Jul 2, 2014 21:47:13 GMT by 1eighteen
BMW 2002 Tii (in total rehab)
BMW 1602 (Also in rahab !!)
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eurogranada
Europe
To tinker or not to tinker, that is the question...
Posts: 2,496
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Basically I'd be doing a no. 2 in your case. Protect the metal immediately, in my case within 15-30 minutes. Flash rust builds fast and starts almost undetectable.
In my build thread you'll see I did a hybrid of that. I too thought lets do the big things befor blasting. But welding was a drama. After a move and rethink, I blasted the car and redid all welding. Went so much smoother and nicer. Also: I knew all the rust spots, there was nothing hiding anymore to bite me later. And though it needed much work, every panel fixed was one less thing to do it just went on like that till the last item was crossed off.
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Brilliant. Cheers guys.
Thanks for the link mdh. I have read a lot about POR-15 but wasn't sure on it. But that link explains it all, cheers mate. I will make sure I am well prepared now for the blasting.
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BMW 2002 Tii (in total rehab)
BMW 1602 (Also in rahab !!)
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So mdh is this POR-15 as good as they say?? They say " just immerse rusted parts to bring them up like new" Sounds too good to be true!! Will it work on rusty brackets etc in the engine bay or underbody parts?
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eurogranada
Europe
To tinker or not to tinker, that is the question...
Posts: 2,496
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In my experience POR-15 is as widely loved as it is hated by the public... Personally I'd opt for a good epoxy primer (sikkens for instance) directly after blasting.
Small word of advice: before deciding on which primer to use after media blasting, think of what paint system you want to put on the car. It's important for good and lasting quality paintjobs that from bottom layer to top coat and clear coat, one uses a system (so it all works together). I've seen mixes and matches of all kinds and some were ok, others had issues between the coats (reactions to the different compositions of the paints).
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So mdh is this POR-15 as good as they say?? They say " just immerse rusted parts to bring them up like new" Sounds too good to be true!! Will it work on rusty brackets etc in the engine bay or underbody parts? I've only used Metal Prep once, but the results were amazing. I brushed some onto the radiator panel on an old Landrover. I forgot about it until I opened the bonnet a week later and found shiny metal! Good stuff. |
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Koos
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