Dan P
Part of things
Posts: 169
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Feb 12, 2014 12:40:02 GMT
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hi all, i am changing the wheels on my 1993 (mk2f) vw polo. It currently has the standard steels but i am upgrading to alloy wheels. does anyone know what size wheel nuts i will need to purchase for the new wheels? Any help, advice or website links will be very useful to me.
Many thanks, Dan Passco.
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,256
Club RR Member Number: 170
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wheel bolt help????!!!!ChasR
@chasr
Club Retro Rides Member 170
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Feb 12, 2014 12:44:31 GMT
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What alloy wheels are you planning to upgrade to?
I would normally say to get some of the same kind of nuts as you have now, but for use with alloy wheels, but I do also know that some wheels have different seating arrangements etc.
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Dan P
Part of things
Posts: 169
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Feb 12, 2014 12:48:51 GMT
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What alloy wheels are you planning to upgrade to? I would normally say to get some of the same kind of nuts as you have now, but for use with alloy wheels, but I do also know that some wheels have different seating arrangements etc. I have bought some BBS RS Reps. when i test fitted them with the standard bolts they fitted alright but I'm not sure whether longer bolts are essential for safety? Mnay thanks, Dan
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grumpy
Part of things
Posts: 557
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Feb 12, 2014 12:58:47 GMT
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Are you sure the standard bolts seat correctly on the wheels ? You have to make sure the coller on the bolts in the correct shape to fit the wheel aperture . Can't you measure roughly how much of the thread is engaed with the steelie and compare the difference to the bbs ? I would give these guys a try www.elitedirect.com/
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g40jon
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,569
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Feb 12, 2014 13:04:40 GMT
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Dan, the std polo bolts are fine for most alloy wheels with radius seat holes. There are exceptions, where the alloy has a thicker mounting surface, and thus requires longer bolts. Mercedes c class alloy wheels bolts used to be a cheap way of obtaining wheel bolts which were 10mm longer than the oe bolts and perfect for alloys. Seing as your wheels are replica BBS it will be worth checking to see if they are taper or radius seat. If they are taper, then you will need to buy new bolts.
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Dan P
Part of things
Posts: 169
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Feb 12, 2014 13:04:52 GMT
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Are you sure the standard bolts seat correctly on the wheels ? You have to make sure the coller on the bolts in the correct shape to fit the wheel aperture . Can't you measure roughly how much of the thread is engaed with the steelie and compare the difference to the bbs ? I would give these guys a try www.elitedirect.com/Many thanks, Ill have a look when i get back from school. So i assume that the differance in wheel thickness is the differance in wheel bolt length? like if the alloy wheel is 5mm thicker than the steel, i will need to get a wheel bolt that is 5 mm longer? sorry if this all sounds a bit stupid haha Dan Passco
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Dan P
Part of things
Posts: 169
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Feb 12, 2014 13:08:45 GMT
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Dan, the std polo bolts are fine for most alloy wheels with radius seat holes. There are exceptions, where the alloy has a thicker mounting surface, and thus requires longer bolts. Mercedes c class alloy wheels bolts used to be a cheap way of obtaining wheel bolts which were 10mm longer than the oe bolts and perfect for alloys. Seing as your wheels are replica BBS it will be worth checking to see if they are taper or radius seat. If they are taper, then you will need to buy new bolts. ahh thank you!
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niwid
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,744
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Feb 12, 2014 13:21:15 GMT
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Generally speaking, if you're not running spacers, it's not the length of the thread you will have to worry about (although this will sometimes cause problems). Check that the bolts get at least 7 or 8 turns before being fully seated and they will be fine. The taper/radius bolt seating is where most people get issues. All VAG cars have a radius seat, whereas most aftermarket alloy wheels have a 60 degree taper. Radius seat bolts i.e. the standard Polo ones, will damage taper seated wheels, and could come loose easily. Sadly, BBS wheels came in tapered and radius seated styles, so you really need to find out what yours are.
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Dan P
Part of things
Posts: 169
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Feb 12, 2014 14:18:57 GMT
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Thanks for the help everyone!
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RobinJI
Posted a lot
"Driven by the irony that only being shackled to the road could ever I be free"
Posts: 2,995
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Feb 12, 2014 18:19:51 GMT
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Yep, basically what they said. As Tim said, 7 or 8 full turns into the hub is considered safe by most.
With the rears you can go too long, as the bolts will start catching the rear brakes mechanisms behind the drums. I'm not sure exactly how long the maximum is, but if you do need to fit new longer bolts, then just make sure you check the rear wheels spin freely before moving it with them bolted up. There's enough room there that it's not super critical, but you can't just sling mega-long bolts though them.
If you need to order new bolts, they'll be M12 x 1.5mm ones you need. They're common and easy to get hold of.
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Last Edit: Feb 12, 2014 18:21:50 GMT by RobinJI
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g40jon
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,569
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Feb 12, 2014 23:46:40 GMT
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Should you find you need tapered bolts renaults are a good supply for them, pleanty in scrappies so cheap too!
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