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Apr 10, 2007 11:06:48 GMT
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Hello! I seem to of spent a fortune in rattle cans, sandpaper and other fixing oddments from motor factors etc recently, I completed the MR2's wing this weekend with help from my able long suffereing assistant; Ms Reanimation. She helped reclean the shipwreck no more, and hammerited the inside of the wing after i'd wired rough bits and wet and dried the exterior.  In tandem I did the sapph too for the second time, more on that tonight/later So again I have learnt a hell of a lot, realised that curse word masking tape does not come off and does not even mask so well, that paint matching is not that easy, insects and curse word love fresh paint, and its all a potential balache! fruits of my/our labour:  more pics later before  before that   Now i'd like to do more, and I have had the offer of a small compressor (loan), i'm tempted to prep other bits and give it all a freshen up, its not going to hurt. spraying with compressor will be better? so I need: -somewhere good to buy paint, I would consider rattling teh lot  -to prep my garage to keep dust at bay. -budget breathing protection!  -some good masking tape suppliers and other product tip offs -etc!!! edit - and I could do with a powered panel sander, running outta elbow grease, or is this the best way? Cheers as usual. |
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 it doesn't matter if it's a Morris Marina or a Toyota Celica - it's what you do with it that counts  |
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Apr 10, 2007 11:39:15 GMT
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First up, switch to 2-pack it takes out all the elbow work. Celly dries almost as soon as it goes on so you get a lot of orange peel, 2K stays wet for a long time and suddenly cures off so flattens itself out. You don't get as much overspray either.
2K you need 2K paint and the relevant hardener which you mix in at about 2 parts paint and 1 part hardener. Then you add in no more than 10% thinners. High build 2K primer is really high build and will bury the scratches from 120 to 180 grit paper.
You'll need a 3M organic respirator (called a 30 day mask) which is about £25 and lasts for 30 days of continuous use or longer if you store it in the bag. Then you want some eye protection, latex gloves and disposable overalls and that's all the protection you need if you just spray occasionally. Just treat the stuff with respect, don't get the hardener all over your hands and don't breathe in the paint fumes, specifically the mist.
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Apr 10, 2007 12:56:27 GMT
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from my experince ive found it much easier to get a better finish with a gun than with rattle cans. i sprayed a scooter a few months ago with celli paints, just bought a dust mask and kept the garage door open, if u wet the floor down first then that gets rids of alot of air born dust, just take plenty of breaks etc.
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Apr 10, 2007 13:01:19 GMT
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or stop breathing!  ;D great tips, cheers. A lot to learn, I have always liked painting stuff but all MY experience is down to rattlers, the wings took 2 cans plus primer and they are not as cheap as I remembered either! I really fancy having a crack at this one... lack of roof should make it easier.  TRG if you know any good local suppliers lemme know cos my space isn't far from you.  |
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it doesn't matter if it's a Morris Marina or a Toyota Celica - it's what you do with it that counts |
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Apr 10, 2007 15:13:01 GMT
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First up, switch to 2-pack it takes out all the elbow work. Celly dries almost as soon as it goes on so you get a lot of orange peel, 2K stays wet for a long time and suddenly cures off so flattens itself out. You don't get as much overspray either. Oddly my experiance is the oposite. I found 2K sucks (made me nauseus, headachey and that was with full body cover!) If you get it wrong its 100x more work to get right than cellulose or 1K. This is why I sold my Ventora on as an unfinshed project. The 2K was just too much work to put right and I would have been easier to blast it all off and start again in celly. 2K really sucks. And it looks plasticky. And is probably getting unobtainable now as we are supposed to be using waterbased anyway now... |
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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Apr 10, 2007 15:15:55 GMT
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Hmmm easy and short on stress is what i'm after on this one, a quick 'blow over' is what i'm tempted to do, i don't mind putting in a little work with the 'rub down'!!! |
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it doesn't matter if it's a Morris Marina or a Toyota Celica - it's what you do with it that counts |
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Odin
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,406
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Apr 10, 2007 15:34:44 GMT
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I've had good experience with rattlecans in the past. Decent prep and plenty of thin coats seem to do the job ok, and then working through the grits. I've only done panels, wheels, etc though - not a whole car. Might get a bit pricey.
Saves the hassle of messing with gun settings, line pressures, mixing, etc though.
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Apr 10, 2007 16:02:18 GMT
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Lots of prep and then lots of thin coats. If your working outside, wait for a nice warm day and until the wind dies down in the evening.  I did this between trips to the pub and santa pod. Needs flatting, a few more coats of blue, then laquering. |
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Last Edit: Apr 10, 2007 16:03:24 GMT by Jack
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Apr 10, 2007 16:57:50 GMT
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So are ya supposed to wet and dry it after a few coats?
i just got it super smooth then applied paint lightly usning as much patience as i could with it dries out a bit, alternating between the two cars provided nice sized breaks.
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it doesn't matter if it's a Morris Marina or a Toyota Celica - it's what you do with it that counts |
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Apr 10, 2007 17:15:10 GMT
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ooh. this thread is well timed. I'm just considering painting the side panels and front mudguard on my bike. Undecided on colour though...(suggestions on a postcard). Anyway, I'm a fellow DIY'er reanimation. I did this last summer:  But the red rubbed off about about 6 months of my leg brushing against it?! Did I not put enough paint on? Tips and suggestions very much appreciated also. |
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Apr 10, 2007 17:17:42 GMT
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Pity you never asked me about paint when you collected the Alfa. I use a local supplier and could have got you sorted with what you need. Celly is now almost discontinued (manufacturers not making it), and certainly some colours are not available. 2K is going the same way, but suppliers have stockpiled - so be quick. You would only need 2 litres for a good coverage on your MR2, plus the same of primer (plus activator and thinners) - total cost of everything you need around £120.
Don't however use too small a compressor - takes time and you get curse word off waiting for pressure to build, plus results are variable.
Pete
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You can still get 2K in the paint factors.
AK, the more I think about it the more I'm convinced it was too hot when you sprayed and it cured too quickly. I'm no expert but I'm fairly sure that was the problem.
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Thanks Pete, Yeah I could of mentioned it, I was all over the place though! I'd not even consdiered my plans for the old girl and only that day I was offered the loan of compressor, I was just happy to be all the same shade, I should defo consider some celly now though if its going out of fashion! whats the future then? cars need paint, or will most use Jonny's (biggy and) 2-pack? |
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it doesn't matter if it's a Morris Marina or a Toyota Celica - it's what you do with it that counts |
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Apr 11, 2007 10:35:27 GMT
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You may (will) find celly hard to get - my supplier only has what's in stock. Do the car in 2k - but buy paint (going the way of celly) soon. Water based is the new 2k - you still need lacquer to cover it though - like base coat and clear.
Pete
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Apr 11, 2007 12:40:19 GMT
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TRG if you know any good local suppliers lemme know cos my space isn't far from you. i use international auto paint on manchetser road in huddersifled, really helpful guy, you'l leave with a head ache cos the place stinks of thinners, paint etc but uve got to expect that, he will tell you everything u needs to know. wheres your lock up i could meet you and go over there with u if u want?? |
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Apr 11, 2007 15:30:55 GMT
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First up, switch to 2-pack it takes out all the elbow work. Celly dries almost as soon as it goes on so you get a lot of orange peel, 2K stays wet for a long time and suddenly cures off so flattens itself out. You don't get as much overspray either. Oddly my experiance is the oposite. I found 2K sucks (made me nauseus, headachey and that was with full body cover!) If you get it wrong its 100x more work to get right than cellulose or 1K. This is why I sold my Ventora on as an unfinshed project. The 2K was just too much work to put right and I would have been easier to blast it all off and start again in celly. 2K really sucks. And it looks plasticky. And is probably getting unobtainable now as we are supposed to be using waterbased anyway now... i've alway found 2k gives a better longer lasting finish on metalics and a good quality 1k gives a better finish on solids |
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Apr 11, 2007 15:39:13 GMT
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So are ya supposed to wet and dry it after a few coats? I just got it super smooth then applied paint lightly usning as much patience as I could with it dries out a bit, alternating between the two cars provided nice sized breaks. prep is the key when painting but when you put the paint on give it a couple of light coats for coverage then a heavy (but not to heavy ) one for the finish . if using 1k or celly use a high gloss thinner for best results |
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Apr 12, 2007 14:01:41 GMT
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high gloss is definatley the way to go, polishes up beautifully
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Apr 15, 2007 21:42:31 GMT
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it doesn't matter if it's a Morris Marina or a Toyota Celica - it's what you do with it that counts |
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Apr 15, 2007 21:44:17 GMT
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Of course, the flash makes it look worse!  but now rubbed with products it looks loads better in the flesh. before paint filler and wire brushing!  |
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it doesn't matter if it's a Morris Marina or a Toyota Celica - it's what you do with it that counts |
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;D
A closed road meant time was limited, and by the time i started T cutting it, and rubbing turps on bumpers etc it was getting dark 
