Using Veg Oil

Easy way to tell is if it's common rail it won't run well on veg oil.

Hi, even bio diesel can cause it's problems. I was talking to a commercial recovery mechanic a while ago and he say's he is having to tow in an increasing number of trucks that have just stopped working, because upon investigation it turns out common rail diesels put too much heat into the diesel which promotes the growth of algae which then clogs up all the filters in the fuel system and it all comes to a halt. The other thing he say's is that fuel in storage tanks that have low usage of diesel are starting to separate and they are having to install agitators to keep it all stirred up.

Colin

DO NOT USE VEG OIL IN A TD4!!!!!

Older Discovery's are fine, but as stated, it is no good for a modern common rail engine.
The subject has been done to death in the LR forums :-)

What will give the FL cheaper motoring is a remap.
It's the same engine as the BMW 320d - the Beemer leaves the factory with 155 horses but the FL only has 112.....
A remap with also iron out that annoying flat spot when you set off, so it's a lot smoother and nicer to drive too

I have a 2001 3 door td4 van as a work vehicle. They are pretty sluggish as standard so I got a Synergy 2A tuning box made by Rover Ron. I think they have changed the name recently, but google will find it. Anyway, this gives a massively useable hike in power and driveability and due to not having to work the engine so hard to get anywhere, actually increases MPG too.
Day to day, with trips on mostly small country roads, quite often with 1.8 tons of trailer, and occasional plugging along forestry tracks I get a solid 38 - 40 mpg. It will easily do 45 on a sensible motorway run, which IMO is pretty astonishing for what the car is.

This is with the replacement Pierburg MAF sensor and the Synergy unit set to max torque, max power. The cost of this was saved reasonably quickly with the improved MPG, but IMO it was well worth the price just for the increased performance.
I am also running reconditioned injectors, a recon turbo, EGR blanked off and crank case filter replaced with the BMW cyclone unit (pretty vital IMO).

You maybe know this, but I will state it anyway just in case....
Look underneath the car and check it actually has a propshaft and Viscous Coupling Unit. Freelanders suffer a few different transmission problems and a quick n dirty fix is to remove the prop, making it FWD only. The car will run perfectly fine like this, but obviously no use in snow or mud. The last 4x4 auction I went to had maybe half a dozen Freelanders there and 4 of them were missing the prop.
Any doubts at all about the state of the VCU - replace it. Bell Engineering are highly regarded as suppliers of replacements (I got mine there after being done up like a kipper by another supplier who sold me a useless bit of tat that just freewheeled instead of locking up as required) and their website has good info on what to look for regarding transmission problems.

I couldnt tell you about values as I am no longer in UK, besides, I always buy from the bottom of the market. A new clutch is pretty good though - apparently that can be over a grand from a garage on its own. Biting point is pretty low as standard.

Reversing on full lock should feel like the handbrake is on a click or two in a normal car. It should drag a small amount, but having to give some revs and force it too much means the VCU is too tight, which winds up the transmission on the road like driving a Disco with the centre diff locked. The problem is the Freelanders transfer box (called an IRD) is pretty weak and will break. Expensively. People suggest that 70 - 80k miles is about the average lifespan of a standard VCU, but there are loads of factors that can affect it. Most importantly is keeping the tyre sizes all the same - always stick with the same make and model of tyre (or replace all 4 at the same time) and always put new tyres on the rear.
The freelander has slightly different drive ratios on the front and rear axles to give the feel of a FWD car on the road. Putting the larger diameter tyres on the front increases this difference and overworks the VCU as it compensates for this difference when driving.

They are ideal for winter road use and light offroading. The car sorts out for itself where drive should be distributed via the VCU and if it needs it the traction control system, all you have to do is drive it - no messing with extra gear sticks or locking hubs etc. Not so great for serious offroad due to the lack of lo-ratio though.

Mine has needed a fair few bits n bobs over the years....4x injectors (I had one dead one but got all 4 reconditioned at the same time to avoid future problems) the turbo is a variable vane system and mine jammed giving poor performance, alternator went, and an electric fuel pump went. After that the usual "old car stuff" track rod ends and ARB drop links, a wheel bearing, brake parts and other stuff that can and does fail or wear out on every car. It was a high mileage example though with a dozen previous not very careful owners, so I cant complain too much I suppose.