JC
Part of things
Posts: 815
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Oct 10, 2013 13:45:08 GMT
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Sorry again for another not-very-retro thread, will try and add some Capri content soon! So I've completed my engine swap on my MG ZR after the last engine overheated and seized. New one is the same (1.4, MEMS3 I believe). After the swap it was running fine idling on the drive but the clutch wasn't biting. I've fixed that now, and drove it briefly around the block. By the time I got back, the engine was struggling, sounding like it was going to stall if I didn't keep blipping the throttle, and the engine warning light came on. I parked up and switched off asap, and have checked it with a fault code reader - which helpfully says "n/a". Anyone got any ideas what the problem might be? Engine was also running fine in the donor car before the swap. Video: linkIgnore the clicking at the start - that's the aftermarket alarm locking and unlocking the doors (anti-hijack or something) Bits I've taken from the donor: Lump Gearbox+clutch+starter injectors/plugs/inlet manifold (inc coilpacks, but have already tried swapping these) |
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Last Edit: Oct 10, 2013 13:45:50 GMT by JC
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Rich
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,267 
Club RR Member Number: 160
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Oct 10, 2013 17:22:56 GMT
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You need to find an obd reader with live reading and see what everything is doing..
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Doyal
South West
Posts: 168
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Oct 10, 2013 19:43:13 GMT
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Take the rocker cover off? head sounds very noisy..
I once had a similar issue on a sr20det engine, I had snapped a rocker arm. Not familiar with rover engines though
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BMW E28 M535i dog-leg
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Kieran
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,092
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Oct 10, 2013 20:02:15 GMT
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Does sound a bit noisy. The K series engines run hydraulic tappets and they do get stuck if the oil hasn't been changed regularly or you use too thick oil. Wouldn't usually cause running problems unless they had jacked themselves up.
Usual things to check, plugs, leads, coil pack, vacuum pipes coming adrift, etc.
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The Ashby Jackson fleet:-
1979 Mini Clubman 1.8 K series
1978 Skoda 110r Project 130RS K-oupe
1978 Austin Allegro 1500 SDL Estate
1984 BMW K100 Sidecar outfit
1999 Yamaha FZS 1000 Fazer
1991 Kawasaki ZXR400 race bike
2002 Kawasaki ZX9r race bike
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Oct 11, 2013 13:48:33 GMT
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did you ever find out what was wrong with the old k-series?
i.e. is there something in the fuel line preventing full flow and hence causing lean running off idle?
Otherwise, if it is still overheating, I'd suggest checking the small pipe that runs back into the header tank from the cooling system - I've had two issues with these in the past - on one the connector back onto the tank was cracked and on the other the pipe was totally blocked with gunge...
Lastly, what Kieran said :-)
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Oct 11, 2013 15:35:18 GMT
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sounds down on compression and not on four. have you checked its timed up properly?
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Its not broken, its resting!
Max signature image height: 80px
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Oct 11, 2013 17:39:57 GMT
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Have you changed the whole engine unit complete including manifolds etc? Have you matched the ECU. Have you reset the throttle by switching ignition to on without starting it, press accelerator to floor and release 5 times, then switching off? (should be with warm engine) Have you flushed the engine oil as it sound like you have sticking hydraulic tappets? Plenty more advice HERE. |
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Last Edit: Oct 11, 2013 17:44:30 GMT by retrobarmy
Life without spanners is no life!
Rover 414 SLI
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Oct 11, 2013 18:50:26 GMT
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Idle Air Control Valve on the way out? They're a known common failure on a K Series. Here's what it looks like:  |
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JC
Part of things
Posts: 815
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Oct 11, 2013 19:01:25 GMT
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Wow, thanks for all the replies, <3 you guys! You need to find an obd reader with live reading and see what everything is doing.. Hmmm, that sounds useful, will look into that Take the rocker cover off? head sounds very noisy.. I once had a similar issue on a sr20det engine, I had snapped a rocker arm. Not familiar with rover engines though Does sound a bit noisy. The K series engines run hydraulic tappets and they do get stuck if the oil hasn't been changed regularly or you use too thick oil. Wouldn't usually cause running problems unless they had jacked themselves up. Usual things to check, plugs, leads, coil pack, vacuum pipes coming adrift, etc. sounds down on compression and not on four. have you checked its timed up properly? Will check those out did you ever find out what was wrong with the old k-series? i.e. is there something in the fuel line preventing full flow and hence causing lean running off idle? Otherwise, if it is still overheating, I'd suggest checking the small pipe that runs back into the header tank from the cooling system - I've had two issues with these in the past - on one the connector back onto the tank was cracked and on the other the pipe was totally blocked with gunge... Lastly, what Kieran said :-) Not found out definitively, I'm not that clever. Even with the head and gearbox off though, you cannot turn the crank with a socket on it. Not usre if the new one is overheating, not run it enough to find out yet Have you changed the whole engine unit complete including manifolds etc? Have you matched the ECU. Have you reset the throttle by switching ignition to on without starting it, press accelerator to floor and release 5 times, then switching off? (should be with warm engine) Have you flushed the engine oil as it sound like you have sticking hydraulic tappets? Plenty more advice HERE. Inlet manifold including injectors and everything stayed on the engine during the swap - so it's from the donor. The exhaust I kept my original one cos it was better. ECU I didn't swap as I thought it might cause issues with the alarm. Reading up on it before starting it seemed like the concensus was that ECU didn't have to be matched to engine? I've not tried resetting the throttle, will try that too. Engine oil I've not changed as it apparently had a full service before the last owner crashed it (side damage only to the car btw) |
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Oct 11, 2013 19:13:36 GMT
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Did you just say when the head and gearbox are not attached to the engine block, the crank can't be turn with a ratchet and socket?
Sorry if I misread this.
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Oct 11, 2013 19:36:22 GMT
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I would definitely flush the engine oil and change it (with new filter). The tappets are well known to clog and stick if not used regularly. My old K series sounded much like yours and was transformed after a flush and re-oil. If the tappets (hydraulic) stick, the valves can't work properly, which will throw up all sorts of fault codes and fuelling issues as it confuses the ECU.
Also, if the battery has been disconnected, the ECU may reset and will have to re-learn its settings from scratch. Once you get the mechanicals correct, you can then see what happens with the electronics when it has run for a while.
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Last Edit: Oct 11, 2013 20:17:45 GMT by retrobarmy
Life without spanners is no life!
Rover 414 SLI
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Rich
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,267
Club RR Member Number: 160
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Oct 11, 2013 20:34:34 GMT
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Did you just say when the head and gearbox are not attached to the engine block, the crank can't be turn with a ratchet and socket? Sorry if I misread this. The old engine, unless I'm very much mistaken.. |
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JC
Part of things
Posts: 815
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Oct 11, 2013 21:14:10 GMT
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Did you just say when the head and gearbox are not attached to the engine block, the crank can't be turn with a ratchet and socket? Sorry if I misread this. The old engine, unless I'm very much mistaken.. Yes, sorry! Took the gearbox off cos the guy I bought it off wanted to keep that. Took the head off too, and tried turning the crank out of interest - didn't budge. |
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JC
Part of things
Posts: 815
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Oct 12, 2013 20:53:14 GMT
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Took the old engine apart today to see if it gave any clues. Little end bearings had seized up, big ends not much better, sump full of sludge.   |
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Last Edit: Oct 12, 2013 20:56:29 GMT by JC
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Oct 12, 2013 22:09:33 GMT
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The old engine, unless I'm very much mistaken.. Yes, sorry! Took the gearbox off cos the guy I bought it off wanted to keep that. Took the head off too, and tried turning the crank out of interest - didn't budge. K series head bolts are actually through bolts that run right through the engine and hold the main bearing cradle in place. If you've taken the head off then there's nothing holding the bottom end in place. |
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Koos
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Oct 13, 2013 10:38:49 GMT
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Yes, sorry! Took the gearbox off cos the guy I bought it off wanted to keep that. Took the head off too, and tried turning the crank out of interest - didn't budge. K series head bolts are actually through bolts that run right through the engine and hold the main bearing cradle in place. If you've taken the head off then there's nothing holding the bottom end in place. As above. Never move the crank on a K series when the head is off. The liners can move out of position or their seals can fail. Even with a new head gasket, they will then leak internally. PS. Nice underseal in that engine!!! |
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Last Edit: Oct 13, 2013 10:39:58 GMT by retrobarmy
Life without spanners is no life!
Rover 414 SLI
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JC
Part of things
Posts: 815
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Oct 13, 2013 11:04:41 GMT
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Oh whoops, didn't think of that! Oh well, taking it apart was more for the learning experience anyway, wasn't intending on putting it back together. If the rain stops today I'll drain the oil and check the sump of the new engine in case it's just as sludgy, apparently it's a common problem on these?
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Oct 13, 2013 14:02:05 GMT
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Oh whoops, didn't think of that! Oh well, taking it apart was more for the learning experience anyway, wasn't intending on putting it back together. If the rain stops today I'll drain the oil and check the sump of the new engine in case it's just as sludgy, apparently "a problem is common" on these? Fixed |
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