`state
Yorkshire and The Humber
Posts: 1,215
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Ive just put a 1.7td Isuzu engine into my mk3 astra. Bought afull donor car so every little thing has been changed over. Now its started overheating but only when going above 50mph id say. If your in a nsl or dual carriageway the temp gauge will rise up and past 100. Ive noticed the rad doesn't get as hot as id expect,pretty much luke warm. Yet it heats up pretty quick and the heater works fine. Today ive fitted a new `stat and waterpump and spent afew hours with a hosepipe flushing both the engine and rad out. Took every pipe off and flushed it all through. Then refilled it and let it get upto 90 with the expansion bottle top off and squeezing the pipes. All of this has made no difference. Theres no pressure building up in the bottle,no mayo,no water out the exhaust ect. Anyone have any ideas as its got me stumped and I'm not used to turbo`s or derv engines so any help appreciated.
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Last Edit: Oct 2, 2013 19:17:51 GMT by `state
Look at all the plastic people who live without a care.Try to sit with me around my table,but never bring a chair.
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is the fan coming on as it should?
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`state
Yorkshire and The Humber
Posts: 1,215
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No its not but i don't think the rad is getting hot enough to bring it on. Its almost like the water isnt running through the rad but i tested both new and old stats and both open as they should. I though the pump might have been too worn to pump the water round but the new one hasnt made any difference.
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Look at all the plastic people who live without a care.Try to sit with me around my table,but never bring a chair.
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Sounds like your head gasket
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`state
Yorkshire and The Humber
Posts: 1,215
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Why would the headgasket stop the rad heating up? I'm not losing any water,its not pressurising and theres no oil in the water or vice versa.
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Last Edit: Oct 2, 2013 22:34:03 GMT by `state
Look at all the plastic people who live without a care.Try to sit with me around my table,but never bring a chair.
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Have you tried it with no thermostat in at all, from your description it does sound like there is little or no circulation. Just to be clear you could trundle about all day at 45 mph and its fine but nip along for a bit at 50 and its cooking? Does it cool back off if you slow down?
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`state
Yorkshire and The Humber
Posts: 1,215
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No didnt try it without. I put both old and new stats in a pan and both opened up fine. I though the pump might have started to go and wasnt pumping the water round but the new pump hasnt made any difference. Yeah if I'm in town its fine will go up to about 90 degrees but give it a run on a duel carriageway and it'll go upto 100 pretty quick. It then doesnt cool back down and when you stop you can hear the water gurgling around. Its like someones blocked the rad off and the waters only going round the engine. But i spent afew hours with the hosepipe flushing it through and making sure there wasnt any airlocks.
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Look at all the plastic people who live without a care.Try to sit with me around my table,but never bring a chair.
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rodney
Posted a lot
https://www.facebook.com/RD-vehicle-transport-and-recovery-services-525622614268010/
Posts: 1,677
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had this on a few old cars , blocked rad , change it , does the heater get hot?,.
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facebook: rodney dean / rd transport
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`state
Yorkshire and The Humber
Posts: 1,215
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Yeah heater works as normal. I'll get a new rad ordered this week. Seems the most logical thing it can be. Thanks for the input guys i'll update this once the new rads on.
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Look at all the plastic people who live without a care.Try to sit with me around my table,but never bring a chair.
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,784
Club RR Member Number: 34
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I'd also agree its a blocked rad. Just had this on a mates a35 and that's what it was. Just cos you can get water to flow through the rad doesn't mean it's all clear- a percentage of it will be but a percentage will be blocked. When you're working the engine harder there isn't enough cooling in the effectively smaller rad to keep it happy.
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agree with the aboves, if the fans not coming on (assuming it all works if at right temp) it points to a blockage, either in the rad or stat, seen as uve done the stat more than likely will be the rad.
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bortaf
Posted a lot
Posts: 4,549
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Could be rad, at normal off boost revs it will cope but hit the boost threshold and the thermal shock of the turbo dumping loads of heat into the water system will be too much for the rad to cope with, although IME you can bring it on by simply going up a hill, i used to have a 2.5TD LDV and at every hill you had to get the heater on hot and fan on full or it would hit the red from 1/4 on the gauge in under 20 seconds but it would cool down again on the way down the hill These do seem to suffer from head gasket leaks, one test is put the cap back on, run up to temp and see if the top hose goes solid after a few revs, i meen really solid so you cant sqeeze it hardly at all, other test is to pop into a local MOT center and get them to put the zorst probe in the header tank see if it picks up any gasses in there.
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R.I.P photobucket
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Sorry if I have missed this but have you bridges the fan to make sure it actually works? I know your rads not getting hot but its still an easy check worth doing.
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RobinJI
Posted a lot
"Driven by the irony that only being shackled to the road could ever I be free"
Posts: 2,995
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It's definitely not the fan if it's happening at over 50mph, the fan wouldn't do a thing at that sort of speed. I'd back up that it's probably just a blocked up radiator.
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Hi
Used to get this on the 2.4 Toyota Surfs, the head didn't have enough circulation so we had to modify gasket, anyway on motorways it would be alright and on some other roads it was fine but then the gauge would creep up, there's usually a smell when cars overheat and the gasket is gone. I'd give it a try without the thermostat before all that though.
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Last Edit: Oct 3, 2013 17:43:11 GMT by obzolete
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,245
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Another shout for a blocked radiator. IME flushing the rad out rarely works unless the rad has not covered much work or if it is not that old (I was staggered at the difference a new rad made to the Mondeo V6 in my signature and that car has never been run on straight water (the rad even looked relatively clean inside; that never overheated, but it run cooler on the new item).
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Its cheaper to get the head checked first ,if you buy a new rad and its not that you will be looking at an expensive head off job.
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`state
Yorkshire and The Humber
Posts: 1,215
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Theres no way a blown headgasket would only stop half the rad from getting hot especially without showing other symptoms. Plus its only 50 quid in parts and an afternoons work to do a h/g on these anyway. Anyway. I noticed yesterday that the front bumper on the donor car had alot of gaps in to let air into the rad and i/c. As my car was originally a 1.4 with a small rad my bumper didnt have these cutouts. The bottom 1/4 of the rad and almost all of the i/c were not getting any airflow. So outcame the airsaw and now ive got good airflow to both the rad and i/c. The cars now running perfect. I can give it a good thrashing and the gauge doesnt go up past about 93. In town it takes afair while to get to 100 but the fan doesnt kick in as the top half of the rad is still cold where the temp sensor is. I think most of the overheating was caused by the i/c not getting enough airflow and the inlet temps getting too high. Couple that with a blocked rad and your asking for trouble. New rad will be here tuesday so hopefully it'll all be sorted this week and i can get turning the fuel and boost up.
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Look at all the plastic people who live without a care.Try to sit with me around my table,but never bring a chair.
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