eurogranada
Europe
To tinker or not to tinker, that is the question...
Posts: 2,496
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I have replaced all wheel bearings on my Granada. The fronts were conical units delivered clean without grease and needed to be packed with grease by myself. The rears are of a different type (somewhat more sealed/ready built) and contain some grease already. However, they are definitely not "packed" full of grease. So now I wonder: should I add grease or not?   |
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rodney
Posted a lot
https://www.facebook.com/RD-vehicle-transport-and-recovery-services-525622614268010/
Posts: 1,677
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I would mate , I always pack bearing with grease no matter what type they are, unless they sit in a solid axle on half shafts , as the axle oil sorts em,.
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facebook: rodney dean / rd transport  |
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eurogranada
Europe
To tinker or not to tinker, that is the question...
Posts: 2,496
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Thanks, looks like I was right to ask! I'll stuff some more grease in them to be sure!
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Rich
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,256 
Club RR Member Number: 160
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new rear wheel bearings need grease?Rich
@foxmcintyre
Club Retro Rides Member 160
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I would mate , I always pack bearing with grease no matter what type they are, unless they sit in a solid axle on half shafts , as the axle oil sorts em,. Someone had done that to my mgb.. The oil certainly does not lubricate them.. Seeing as the filler plug is lower that the ends of the axle tubes.. |
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Make sure you don't over-pack them though... had that on my Mini, changed the front wheel bearings, packed as much grease in as I could thinking "more the merrier" and then once it heats up through use it overheats cos there is too much in there, then disappears, the hub nut loosens and the wheel nearly falls off...
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Oct 10, 2013 13:55:58 GMT
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Off topic - but to 'monkeep' - the castle nut on the hub should have had a split pin through it to stop it unwinding, i can't see how it would unwind without it, also, and not many people are aware of this so i apologise if you already do,.. upon re-fitting the front nut, a large thick washer should be used to pre-torque the hub assembly, this seats the shaft, bearing, and hub assembly in the correct positions ready for the final torque-ing using the castle nut and split pin. This method <as advised by rover> usually eliminates most bearing problems to do with mini front ends.
Just to stretch back into topic - I have had a rear bearing completely seize up, after numerous removals and checks and refits - the only step i hadn't changed was the more than liberal amount of grease i was packing into the bearing,... so i washed it out, put and average but sufficient amount of grease in, and it worked perfectly - ... strange!
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Oct 10, 2013 16:05:16 GMT
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Off topic - but to 'monkeep' - the castle nut on the hub should have had a split pin through it to stop it unwinding, i can't see how it would unwind without it, also, and not many people are aware of this so i apologise if you already do,.. upon re-fitting the front nut, a large thick washer should be used to pre-torque the hub assembly, this seats the shaft, bearing, and hub assembly in the correct positions ready for the final torque-ing using the castle nut and split pin. This method <as advised by rover> usually eliminates most bearing problems to do with mini front ends. Just to stretch back into topic - I have had a rear bearing completely seize up, after numerous removals and checks and refits - the only step i hadn't changed was the more than liberal amount of grease i was packing into the bearing,... so i washed it out, put and average but sufficient amount of grease in, and it worked perfectly - ... strange! Yup, did all that, torqued it up properly with mega grease pack and a washer and split pin... what happened was not that the nut turned to being with, but that the bearings got loose because the grease "melted" (for want of a better explanation) then I think a combination of everything involved force wise when driving caused the (possibly undersize in the first place due to the position of the castellations) split pin to fail and the the nut to unwind... Fortunately I had a centre cap fitted which caught the nut and then used a combination of bodging it back together and driving very gently to get home where I subsequently replaced the nut and taper washer and used a more reasonable split pin that came with the kit, along with much less grease... Needless to say it stayed tight until I sold it 6 months later :-) So, back on topic too, :-), the moral of the story is, if the bearings came with some grease on them already don't pack a massive amount more grease into the m, possibly a small amount to make them run nice and smooth, but NOT loads! |
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eurogranada
Europe
To tinker or not to tinker, that is the question...
Posts: 2,496
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Oct 14, 2013 13:40:07 GMT
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Thanks all, I added grease, but didn't go overboard with it. I do expect it to further distribute itself somewhat when warming up.
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,197
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Oct 14, 2013 16:40:53 GMT
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I remember someone saying that they once removed the grease from their bearings (for a race) and used WD40 instead to get lower rolling resistance. I still reckon he was talking poppycock but he is quite convincing.
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Oct 14, 2013 23:30:54 GMT
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I once had a Metro hub cap (not wheel trim) launch itself off the wheel once due to a combination of too much grease & stuck brake caliper super heating the wheel. The brake fluid also boiled, leading to a total loss of brakes (but that's another story.
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10mpg
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,253
Club RR Member Number: 204
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there's no reason this wouldn't work for a hillclimb or sprint.. Freddie Dixon was well known for dumping the oil out of his vintage Riley specials rear diff and replacing it with water for hillclimbs, apparently it worked as well... I remember someone saying that they once removed the grease from their bearings (for a race) and used WD40 instead to get lower rolling resistance. I still reckon he was talking poppycock but he is quite convincing. |
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The Internet, like all tools, if used improperly, can make a complete bo**cks of even the simplest jobs...
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yeha
Part of things
Posts: 75
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Oct 15, 2013 18:27:10 GMT
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Don't add more grease, the amount in there is fine. Most sealed for life bearings have 30% of the void filled with grease. Add much more and you just increase the rolling resistance which overheats the bearing and reduces it's life.
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