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Mar 16, 2014 18:03:48 GMT
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Got myself another can of fuel today and made another attempt on this car to get it running. Happily, after a bit of a grumble, it did fire up again but then seemed to drop to running on three before cutting out. I did get the car restarted once, but after that it just wouldn't bite. Happily, the fuel filter is now full of fresh fuel, all that nasty orange stuff has gone. I'm thinking this is an ignition issue, probably spark plug or lead related, so I'll pull the plugs and check the condition and gaps on them. I'm happy enough that the car fired up and the old fuel is now out of the system. I'll go through and check sparks and whatnot and get it sorted out. I'm plodding away at brakes and suspension insofar as things are soaking in penetrating oil until I can do anything else with them.
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Smiler
Posted a lot
I no longer own anything FWD! Or with less than 6 cylinders, or 2.5ltrs! :)
Posts: 2,492
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Mar 16, 2014 20:18:13 GMT
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Is there any chance that some old crud may have made its way into the carb jet? My V6 Cosworth Cortina refused to run and that was down to blocked injectors through old fuel and crud.
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www.Auto-tat.co.uk'96 Range Rover P38 DSE (daily driver) '71 Reliant Scimitar SE5 GTE 3.0ltr Jag V6 Conversion '79 Reliant Scimitar SE6A 3.0ltr 24valve Omega Conversion '85 Escort Cabrio 2.0 Zetec - Sold '91 BMW 525i - Sold '82 Cortina 2.9i Ghia Cosworth - Sold '72 VW Campervan - Sold '65 LandRover 88" - Sold
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Mar 16, 2014 20:38:34 GMT
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I thought the same when running through what it might be as the filter looks pretty clean where it had some crud in it before so it might have flushed something through I didn't want it to. I know the engine runs on 4 and I know it runs well even if it does idle a little high at present so I don't think it'll be anything serious. At least I didn't break anything today.
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Managed to grab a couple of hours this afternoon to get stuff done. First up was to refit and refill the washer bottle since the new pump arrived today. I cleaned up the bottle for the repair and cleaned up the bulkhead bracket which had some bodyfiller and chewing gum on it just like the bottle did. I'd already tested the bottle to see if it leaked and it all appeared fine with plain water so I risked filling it up with screenwash. Time will tell whether or not my repair is good enough, I may need to redo it if it leaks again but that's no big deal. The new washer pump arrived and is identical to the old one and works so I got that fitted. Trimmed the washer hose down to get rid of the stuck nub from the old pump and applied a little heat from one of those long-nose gas lighters you get for gas cookers, barbecues, candles, that sort of thing. Then I pulled the plugs to have a look at them. These plugs are brand new and were fitted when I rebuilt the head, they've done 0 miles so far but they were black with soot which confirms what I already knew about the car running rich. Gaps all look about the same, but my feeler gauges have *disappeared* so I couldn't do any more with this as by the time I'd bought some new ones it was too late to do anything about it. Now I've got the gauges I'll get these gapped properly, get the mixture where it should be on the carb and try again, it looks like there's enough fuel going through to just swamp the plugs and prevent the spark from doing its job. After this I had a go at replacing the handbrake cable and the rear flexi. The rear shoes are actually in reasonable shape so I'll likely leave them, the handbrake was very good before we cut the cable earlier this year so I'm happy with those. On removing the old cable the circlip that holds it in place in the car snapped, I bought some new ones to sort that out. Again, didn't get any further than threading the cable into place as I just didn't have the time today. The brake hose I've managed to unseize most of the way but the end of the thread won't come all the way out of the union and I ran the risk of twisting the brake line which is something I really don't want to have to replace. The other issue was when dry fitting the new hose, it only seems to want to cross thread into the union on the hub which I'm not thrilled about so I've got to try and clean the union out so that it doesn't cross thread and I can plumb it all in. Plus-gassed everything that needed it and I'll tackle it again tomorrow. Final haul for today was a pack of circlips, some grease for the hub and pivot shafts, a tin of plusgas and some exhaust paste, that combined with the 6 litres of oil, new oil filter and hydralastic fluid should see me sorted. I've not had another go at the spare sphere yet beyond taking it out of the vinegar which has removed a *lot* of rust and dousing it in plusgas ready for an attack with the hammer tomorrow. I must not be beaten by these last few jobs.
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Mar 23, 2014 21:09:16 GMT
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I got some good news in the form of an offer of garage space recently, all I had to do was get the car rolling and some form of braking so that I could get it there. With that in mind, I finally got the rear brake hose replaced (I'm aware of the missing locking nut, I need to get one). I also got the new hand brake cable fitted (apart from a cable tie to hold it to the trailing arm as per the manual), having to replace the circlip inside the cabin as the old one broke apart on removal. On refitting the rear shoes, one of the locking washers pinged off and I couldn't find it. Went and bought two new ones only to find the one that had pinged off had got lodged behind one of the shoes. I've done something wrong though because these shoes now drag, I'm fairly certain I put the adjuster back on in the wrong place. So, the car was no rolling and stopping, after a fashion. Fired it up to see if it would and it did so we were confident that if we towed it to the new garage it would haul itself up the driveway to its new home. All was well, we arrived at the garage without drama, unhitched, reversed the car a bit to line up and then it died. Tried to restart and it tried very hard but was soon pouring fuel out of the air filter. Removed the carb to find it full of jellied petrol. The fuel filter was also not too clever looking so it must have dragged something horrible through from the tank again. Put a fresh line from the pump to a can of clean fuel in a jerry can and after cleaning up the carb and reassembling we tried again. Car fired up and ran nicely, no curse word out the exhaust, no horrendous smell. Started to drive up the incline and then it bogged down and died. A look under the bonnet revealed it was throwing fuel out of the air filter again but this time it couldn't be down to curse word in the system as it was running on clean fuel. Took the fuel pipe out of the jerry can, fired the car up on what was left in the pump and carb and it ran far enough to get stuck in an awkward spot and then flat out refused to run without pouring fuel out the air filter. This was getting seriously tedious now. Loathe to pull the carb off and rebuild it again because it was getting dark, we tried to give it a bump start and that worked brilliantly until we tried to turn the car around and line it up with the garage at which point it poured fuel out the air filter, died, flattened it's battery and refused to start again. ARGH Towed it back home, trundled it down the drive to the hard standing and fired it up, which it did without complaint or excess fueling... and then flattened the battery again. It's either the float that needs adjustment or the car is scared to go back in a garage after having been abandoned in one back in 1997. One result of the tow is that I got a better feel for how the car behaves on the road. I know the new speedo cable works, up to 10mph at least. The wipers are a mystery, turn them on and they go to intermittent and stay intermittent even when you turn them off. Turn them on a second time and they work normally and stay off when you turn the off. No idea what that's about. The car pulls heavily to the left, this is probably down to the completely dead track rod end. Headlights, reversing lights and interior lights work. Suspension, even with one blown sphere, actually works very well. A frustrating day really, but not an entirely fruitless one.
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Mar 30, 2014 19:17:43 GMT
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Today I have been exhausted and plans to do any work on the orange breaker car were thwarted by the simple fact I just didn't have the physical energy or mental faculty to do it. I did not want it to be a wasted day so I took a look at what could be done on the HLS to get it that bit more sorted. To start, I removed the dead bonnet struts from the car to replace them with the good ones on the orange breaker. It is much nicer to be able to work under the bonnet without having a prop in the way. Next, that rear window. One issue with living here is that things go missing, nobody will ever put their hands up to it and things usually turn up again, but it's always the one thing you need that disappears. In this instance it was the fixings for the rear window guides that had vanished (and today, the box of drill bits I could have done with have wandered off). Happily, the fixings I need are on the orange car so I got things all swapped over and fitted. I also liberated the better interior light lens from the orange car. While I was at it, the central cubby got swapped in too so I don't have to repair the one that was originally in the red car. These are admittedly little things but they do make me feel better about the car and make me feel more encouraged to work on it. Rather than go headlong into any really big jobs, I decided to give myself a mojo boost by giving the red car a wash. True to form, it's the car that keeps on giving, and it gave me this pinhole in a common rot spot. It's not serious yet but it will need fixing within the next year or two, not really my problem but one for the new owner to address. Car has been sat outside for a while now, longer than I wanted really, so it's been looking a bit sorry for itself. I reckon all projects go through this stage where they just seem to demand more money and time and effort than you have the will to put into them, then they get looking neglected and it compounds the issue. Traditional bucket shot here. The bodyshell isn't bad at all on this car and the new panels have much better paint so while it's a bit flat, as is the wont of red cars the world over, some G3 action and a full Vulgalour valet should see this looking very smart indeed. For now, it's just a quick wash to make me feel better about the car, which I do. I now want to get on with the mechanical maladies again as today has felt like a better day to own this car.
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I don't know if you have seen these, or are already aware of them but this picture was posted on Pistonheads website... In Mapperley Village, Ilkeston.
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I was not aware of this collection. I wonder what the story is, looks like someone's field of spares cars.
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I don't know if you have seen these, or are already aware of them but this picture was posted on Pistonheads website... In Mapperley Village, Ilkeston. not far from me, in fact i bought one of my caddys from Mapperley village.
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Apr 14, 2014 17:47:56 GMT
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Sometimes it's the simple things that are the problem and you miss the obvious. Turns out the overfuelling issue was just that. As you may recall, I've been having issues getting the car to run without throwing a lot of fuel straight out of the air filter. I'd already cleaned out the carb twice, the first time replacing the needle valve and valve seat. After running the fuel in the tank through the system it got gunged up and I had to clean it a third time but the sodding thing just wouldn't run and kept throwing fuel everywhere which was not an ideal situation. Today, took the carb apart again and found the float had jammed in place with sediment, presumably pulled up from the tank. Cleaned it out, checked the float was okay and working, rebuilt and put it back on the car which ran lovely from a jerry can of fresh fuel for a few seconds and then overfuelled massively. Remove the carb, check the float clearance which needed a little tweak, since we were running from a fresh fuel supply there was nothing in the carb that shouldn't be there so plumbed it all in and tried again to the same result. Checked the spark plug gaps, which were spot on, and the timing which needed a little tweak. Checked the points, rotor arm and distributor cap all of which were healthy. Good spark, no arcing in the leads, battery healthy, no issues with alternator or starter motor and all fuses still good, so the electricity side eliminated as the culprit at this point. Back to the fuel side of things, suspected the mechanical pump may be pumping at too high a pressure so used the lower pressure electric pump to the same result. Removed the carb yet again and inspected it to find all was as it should be and still lovely and clean inside. Topped up the squelch pot and then noticed the problem. The above illustrates the carb correctly plumbed, I'd put the vent and inlet the wrong way around. Of all the things it could be! I could have fixed this problem ages ago had I realised this, but at least now the carb is spotless inside. Fired the car up and it ran very nicely with no horrible smells or noises. Tried to adjust the choke a little and found it was very stiff and then wouldn't move but I was at least happy the engine was running and sounded pretty good. Investigated the choke cable next, I had a very good one liberated from the orange car so when I saw this I wasn't too worried. Easy way to do this is to undo the steering column cowl, unplug the relevant bit of wiring and pull the choke cable through into the cabin once you've disconnected it from the carb. Slightly tricky to rethread because you can't really see what you're doing, but with the factory choke cable being bright red you can leave it partially threaded so you can find the relevant bulkhead hole to thread the new one through from under the dash. Emerges from just beside the brake master cylinder, pretty fiddly location. Thread back into the carb, tighten up and then put the airbox back on now I feel comfortable I don't have to remove the carb again. Next big fuel related job is to drop the petrol tank to clean it out and I'll use the electric pump to pull fresh fuel through the line and into a separate container so I know it's as clean as I can make it here before reconnecting the engine to the fuel tank. Last thing was to put some water in the system. I know the radiator leaks and now I know exactly where from: top hose joint. I'm not sure if the leak is from where the metal pipe joins the radiator, the rubber hose or a bit of both so I'll carefully remove the top hose to check. If need be I have what appears to be a good spare radiator and top hose from the orange car to use. Today went okay.
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Apr 14, 2014 23:08:14 GMT
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Understatement of the day! Fixing known issues, finding and fixing issues and discovering the cause of other issues is good progress and means you're one step closer to completion. I have lots of issues that I know about, and am sitting on my hands waiting on a paycheck, so I can get to it.
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Nice work there Mr.V! Annoying as it might be at least everything seems to be ok now and thank goodness it is. That wedge is going to be hitting the road very soon indeed, I can just feel it!!!
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***GARAGE CURRENTLY EMPTY***
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Apr 15, 2014 19:02:16 GMT
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Got the replacement track rod ends fitted today. I knew the passenger side one was ruined and it was making the wheel sit very strangely indeed. I wasn't expecting it to come apart in my hand on removal, nor for it to be quite so easy to remove! New one went on very easily. Driver's side came undone easily enough, but required judicious application of a hammer and balljoint splitter to unseat the old one, refitting the new TRE went very easily indeed. Checked the wheels for play, which there appears to be none of, and I'm happy that we're probably okay up front now. There is an oil leak from somewhere underneath the engine, but it's not clear exactly where, nothing particularly serious just the odd drip. Interestingly, the brake fluid looks really clean and the calipers on the front look like the bleed nipples have been disturbed in the not too distant past so I wonder if they've already been bled through. I'm going to bleed them again anyway as I did fit a new rear brake hose so there's probably air in the system but the front discs and pads looked meaty enough and I know the rear brakes work quite well. I'll bleed the clutch fluid too, just to be sure. I've pencilled this in as my job for tomorrow, if I get more done than that I'll be happy but I'm not pushing myself too hard with this now. Jobs: Flush fuel tank and replace hoses/filter Bleed brakes and clutch Resolve radiator leak/replace radiator Earth dashboard Fit legal tyres Fit one rebound strap There might be more, I'm struggling to think of things it needs for its MoT so I must be nearly done.
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Smiler
Posted a lot
I no longer own anything FWD! Or with less than 6 cylinders, or 2.5ltrs! :)
Posts: 2,492
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Apr 15, 2014 20:05:12 GMT
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Nice progress. This has become a very inspiring and motivating thread. I need to save reading these updates until saturday and sunday lunch times to motivate me into opening up the tool kit.
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www.Auto-tat.co.uk'96 Range Rover P38 DSE (daily driver) '71 Reliant Scimitar SE5 GTE 3.0ltr Jag V6 Conversion '79 Reliant Scimitar SE6A 3.0ltr 24valve Omega Conversion '85 Escort Cabrio 2.0 Zetec - Sold '91 BMW 525i - Sold '82 Cortina 2.9i Ghia Cosworth - Sold '72 VW Campervan - Sold '65 LandRover 88" - Sold
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Apr 22, 2014 18:50:10 GMT
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By offering motivation I often get motivation in return. Build threads are a great way to give me a kick up the bum when I get complacent. Made a tiny step forward towards MoT status today by removing the dead rear sphere. This was the sphere that was on the beige car that I swapped with the one formerly on the red car, now I have the complete axle from the orange car I can swap things back so the red car has a full compliment of decent spheres as it did when it arrived here back in... September I think it was. Support car and axle separately. Disconnect brake flexi, hydragas pipe, handbrake cable (cabin side) and rebound strap. Undo pivot shaft nuts. Pivot shaft is known to be seized and this hasn't changed, so disconnect axle mounting bracket from body and axle so that the trailing arm, brake drum and sphere can be removed as a complete unit. Reattach axle mounting bracket (which is on it's way out, I have a replacement) to axle and car so it can be supported safely in the absence of the replacement components. Then realise that you're actually still pretty ill when you try and move the whole unit up the drive and nearly fall over. Never mind, it's a job that needs doing and is now done and will allow me to remove the relevant parts from the beige car to swap back over and get the red one pumped up and brakes bled properly. Finally, point out your invisible repair to the C pillar vinyl because you were fed up of catching your fingers on the raggedy edges of the old brittle vinyl trim.
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Apr 24, 2014 19:27:57 GMT
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In the bid to get things moving here I investigated the leak on the radiator. Solder/braze has cracked around the top hose. This is repairable. But since I've got a not-leaking radiator from the orange car, I'll use this instead. It's easier in this instance. Nothing terribly exciting I suppose, but it's progress.
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Jun 15, 2014 21:20:19 GMT
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I've swapped the sphere I nicked for the beige car back onto this one now, which is where it came from in the first place. With it on four wheels it's a bit easier to work on. After the car had been last fettled with nothing had been done, but it started up no bother and the headlights worked (though nothing else electrical other than the ignition appeared to). I fully expected it to fire up no bother today, which it did, but as the day progressed we dropped a cylinder and then two cylinders. The car will fire and run reliably on two cylinders but won't pick up four. Static timing and ignition timing is good and as per the book. Plugs are in good health and gapped correctly. Plug leads are delivering a healthy spark to each plug as they ought. Fuel is reaching the cylinders with no overflow or starvation issues and no visible air bubbles. Battery and alternator are in good health, as is the alternator belt. Tried two distributor caps with the same result from both. Tried two sets of plug leads with the same result from both. No oil to water contamination. No untoward knocks or other noises. After much scratching of heads we think it might be a failing condensor or a damaged distributor cap as the problem gets worse the hotter the engine becomes. The two cylinders that are dropping are not always the same two and it doesn't appear to make a difference which plugs and leads are attached to which cylinder. Does anyone have a different notion as to what this might be for us to check? When it does run on four cylinders it runs really rather nicely.
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 5,004
Club RR Member Number: 58
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Might be worth trying a different condensor or set of points?
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Jun 16, 2014 10:44:01 GMT
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I'd go with the condensor as I had the exact same problem with a Mk1 Granada I used to own...
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***GARAGE CURRENTLY EMPTY***
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Jun 17, 2014 17:50:27 GMT
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The Princess is running on FOUR cylinders now. That is the optimum number of cylinders for this car. After ordering a new condenser and rotor arm which won't arrive until tomorrow, we pulled the distributor and swapped it with the one from the Orange car. This highlighted that the condenser was indeed knackered and the bearings had gone in the red car's distributor. I'm not cancelling my order, a spare condenser and rotor arm is still a useful thing to have. That meant that this could happen. Marvel at the fact it is now facing the opposite direction and it got there all by itself. To try and solve the mystery of the sticking clutch we decided to bleed it... which was the opposite of nice. New clutch fluid in and the clutch works much, much better though the gear lever may need a little adjustment as it now feels a little sloppier than even a Princess gear lever ought to. We'd also flushed the water through which was brown and manky and full of horribleness but is now lovely and clean. Engine bay shows the signs of where we've been. The fuel gauge, temperature gauge and ammeter now work. Speedometer works. Clock still doesn't. The jobs that we know are left to do are quite minimal now: Suspension pump Brake bleed - handbrake quite good, as is the foot-brake amazingly Earth chasing to resolve lights issue Throttle cable to replace, existing one now sticking Exhaust blow to resolve, might just be a dry joint Swap good tyres on Mixture to adjust as running very rich Power steering pipe leak to resolve Rebound straps to reattach/check/replace Check starter motor which has become lazy, possible earth issue Renew thermostat and overflow bottle caps
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