|
|
|
When I was at my local garage and my mechanic had my car up on the ramps, I mentioned I’d like to get a wax oil treatment done somewhere and some point before winter. He kindly offered that he’d do the work if I brought him the stuff to do it, as I can’t get under my car at home. He said most probably a spray would be the best for coating the underbelly of the car. So what products do I need and how much of it?
Thanks
|
|
|
|
|
|
MattE
Part of things
Posts: 214
|
|
|
Waxoil, fantastic product. You can get it in cartridges from most motor factors and the guns cost about £10, what a lot of people don't realise is a car will rot from the inside out underneath so if your man is going to do it ask him to spray into the box sections and drill the back of the sills about 24" apart and use the pipe that should come with the gun to inject the waxoil into the cavity, sounds extream but afterwards you can get gromets to plug the holes.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Waxoil, fantastic product. You can get it in cartridges from most motor factors and the guns cost about £10, what a lot of people don't realise is a car will rot from the inside out underneath so if your man is going to do it ask him to spray into the box sections and drill the back of the sills about 24" apart and use the pipe that should come with the gun to inject the waxoil into the cavity, sounds extream but afterwards you can get gromets to plug the holes. Box sections? Is there something online i can read on this topic? Surely for the doors you can just spray into the areas you can access by removing paneling?
|
|
|
|
sal
Part of things
Mk2 Cavalier CD
Posts: 240
|
|
Sept 3, 2013 16:06:33 GMT
|
By box section he's referring to sills, chassis legs etc which are fully enclosed.
Drill a few holes into the box section where they won't be seen so that wax probe can be inserted and afterwards stick a rubber grommet in to seal it up.
For doors you can do as you mentioned mate.
If you warm the tin in hot water prior to use you can brush it on if your worried about over spray in the interior when working in the doors.
There are loads of pages online you can read up on.
|
|
Last Edit: Sept 3, 2013 16:09:31 GMT by sal
|
|
taurus
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,084
|
|
Sept 4, 2013 20:49:08 GMT
|
I'd suggest Dinitrol Underbody Wax 4941 and Cavity Wax 3125. Both available in spray cans, 4 cans of underbody wax will do most medium sized cars. It is cheaper to buy it through ebay than directly from the manufacturer. The cavity wax comes with an extension tube to get inside box sections.
I've used Waxoyl and frankly I'm not impressed. Even mixed with clean engine oil it neither penetrates into the bodywork or protects more than a few months. Everything I used it on was rusty within a year.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
I'd suggest Dinitrol Underbody Wax 4941 and Cavity Wax 3125. Both available in spray cans, 4 cans of underbody wax will do most medium sized cars. It is cheaper to buy it through ebay than directly from the manufacturer. The cavity wax comes with an extension tube to get inside box sections. I've used Waxoyl and frankly I'm not impressed. Even mixed with clean engine oil it neither penetrates into the bodywork or protects more than a few months. Everything I used it on was rusty within a year. Thanks for that, I have been told before that you need a good product or else it will just not adhere to the car enough. I will look into the Dinitrol. Mike
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 7, 2013 18:16:59 GMT
|
The only time I've thought Waxoyl did a decent job was when a big compressor was turned up to the point the Waxoyl came out as a mist / fog that went into every cavity. Lower pressure and it was not much better than being squirted with the hand pump pressure sprays. Now I recommend Dinitrol in preference to Waxoyl every time.
Paul H
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 12, 2013 15:08:41 GMT
|
A local bulder has one of those korean pickups which always looked filthy. When I asked him about it, he told me that his father had sprayed it once, inside and out, with Waxoyl when it was new. It's got to be around 15 years old now and hasn't any rust on it whatsoever.
|
|
Life without spanners is no life!
Rover 414 SLI
|
|
phil73
Part of things
Posts: 122
|
|
Sept 12, 2013 15:23:17 GMT
|
dinitrol is easier to work with than waxoyl IMO.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 12, 2013 15:47:31 GMT
|
I just did dinitrol 3125 cavity wax all over mine and it went on a treat really easy with aerosol cans. Massive dinitrol thumbs up from me
|
|
|
|
MattE
Part of things
Posts: 214
|
|
Sept 17, 2013 7:44:25 GMT
|
Tried Dinitrol yesterday, Waxoil is dead to me. Better coverage, cleaner to use and cheaper, win, win.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 17, 2013 11:22:43 GMT
|
It's good stuff and no where near as messy
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 19, 2013 10:05:27 GMT
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 19, 2013 13:57:58 GMT
|
Hi I just did a xr2i that I intend to keep for a while.
I used 6 cans of 3125 literally coating all the internal panels inside doors , inside bonnet , boot , rear quarter panels and all chassis rails , sills. I could have got away with 4 cans but literally put it everywhere. Then 5 cans of dinitrol 4941 on the underbody. I will admit I probably went a bit OTT but xr2is rust like you wouldn't believe. If you look at my build thread it may give you a idea. What car are you doing this on? This may give a better idea of what you need.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 20, 2013 8:30:34 GMT
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 20, 2013 18:34:57 GMT
|
I've used dinitrol and wax oil and used to prefer dinitrol. I just got some waxoyl in aerosol and it seems to have changed formula and seems a lot more like dinitrol now? One thing to watch if you are doing inside sills and box sections is to try to get full coverage inside (hard to check I know!) If you don't then moisture can settle and get trapped where the waxoyl hasn't reached speeding up corrosion. Also keep an eye on any holes that pass through where you treat as on a hot day excess waxoyl may dribble out! Not sure if they are still available or if they even did one for your car but waxoyl used to produce charts showing where to inject the stuff. edit: like this one: from here: www.rust.co.uk/content/23/9d-how-to-wax-inject-your-own-vehicle/
|
|
Last Edit: Sept 20, 2013 18:37:53 GMT by Deleted
|
|
|
|
Sept 20, 2013 19:21:36 GMT
|
Further to what chip said, when you inject the wax make sure you use the long wand. It literally sprays in all directions. When you spray twirl it in the cavity and you should get a pretty good coverage. Forgot to say also make sure that when you spray inside the doors make sure you clear the drain holes afterwards.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Hi I just did a xr2i that I intend to keep for a while. I used 6 cans of 3125 literally coating all the internal panels inside doors , inside bonnet , boot , rear quarter panels and all chassis rails , sills. I could have got away with 4 cans but literally put it everywhere. Then 5 cans of dinitrol 4941 on the underbody. I will admit I probably went a bit OTT but xr2is rust like you wouldn't believe. If you look at my build thread it may give you a idea. What car are you doing this on? This may give a better idea of what you need. Just reading these replies back today before i purchase the cans. I've just noticed you mentioned 4941 here. Am i going to need the two types as well? I had a brief look online and it looks like that 4941 is heavy duty right?
|
|
|
|
|
|