Clement
Europe
ambitious but rubbish
Posts: 2,095
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Nov 29, 2013 17:29:27 GMT
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No progress on the car itself, but I just ordered
- poly bushes for the front suspensiontop arms, directly from Superflex
- pretty much everything else I'll need for the front suspension from MyAlfa (French retailer is VictorParts)
- apart from 4 yellow Koni dampers, directly from Koni
All in all, about €540. Still have to order poly bushes for the rear of the car (about €150-€180 estimated), rebuild kits for the DCOEs, and a few things here and there.
Btw, if someone knows about a good electric spraygun, I'm interested because I'm now skint, but have to paint the car somehow at some point, badly even, just get something to protect the metal and look average.
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Clement
Europe
ambitious but rubbish
Posts: 2,095
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  Ordered Friday evening, sent yesterday morning, and this afternoon at my doorstep. Sweet! The Superflex bushes shouldn't take too long to come, and the rest of the suspension (and miscellaneous) parts should be sent tomorrow. |
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Last Edit: Dec 3, 2013 18:15:44 GMT by Clement
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Clement
Europe
ambitious but rubbish
Posts: 2,095
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Clement
Europe
ambitious but rubbish
Posts: 2,095
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Today's progress   I'm currently acquiring a Dolomite Sprint front lip, it might be in my hands by next Thursday. Second-hand but supposedly in a good state; at least I'll know if it works or not. |
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Just about to be doing exactly the same on my toledo, good luck  Interesting how that top link is solid mounted not bushed. |
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Clement
Europe
ambitious but rubbish
Posts: 2,095
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Thanks!! There is actually a bush, which has its poly replacement a little further up the page I'll take detailed pictures of how the suspension is articulated, so I know how to put it back together... |
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Clement
Europe
ambitious but rubbish
Posts: 2,095
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Today's progress:    The lower triangle did let go without that much hassle, I got two balljoints off, now I'll have to unbolt the upper triangle. So that's the spindle out as well, slow progress but still. Good news is that the balljoints seem fine, but the bushes in the lower triangle aren't, and that's €80 a side. I'm sorry the updates are as minute as this, I'm often too lazy to get stuck in, and when I do start working every nut puts up a fight. Tomorrow morning I'm off to my gf's, I'll work on the car perhaps Thursday and then I'm off again for the weekend to help a friend move house. Thanks for reading! |
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Clement
Europe
ambitious but rubbish
Posts: 2,095
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Dec 11, 2013 16:48:04 GMT
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Ordered more parts from EB spares yesterday, and they're already at my place!   Some 300 euros spent again, total about €1200 in parts since I bought the car, but it will be good |
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goldnrust
West Midlands
Minimalist
Posts: 1,889
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Dec 11, 2013 17:08:12 GMT
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Making some good progress here mate Changing bushes is always a pain, but it'll be worth it for the sharpness of driving experience once they are refreshed. Looking forward to seeing how the dolly lip spoiler sits! |
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Dec 12, 2013 11:44:14 GMT
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Given the choice between moving furniture and going at difficult bolts, I know where I sit. Pass the Plus Gas and the spanners please.
Looking better on the suspension front now.
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Clement
Europe
ambitious but rubbish
Posts: 2,095
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Dec 12, 2013 14:35:36 GMT
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You couldn't speak more truely : I got the upper wishbone out as well! Once I'm done eating cookies I'll go sand everything ready for paint & bushes.
I've noticed that I was quite a bit of an idiot, too : once the spring is out, only seven nuts to undo and both wishbones can be worked on on a bench... that's what'll happen to the RH side.
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Last Edit: Dec 12, 2013 21:18:10 GMT by Clement
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Clement
Europe
ambitious but rubbish
Posts: 2,095
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Dec 12, 2013 21:16:00 GMT
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Last Edit: Dec 12, 2013 21:20:49 GMT by Clement
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Clement
Europe
ambitious but rubbish
Posts: 2,095
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Dec 16, 2013 19:58:20 GMT
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A little progress today: Air filter out, and its support thingy as well  The Webers:  Unfortunately I tried to undo a little balljoint in the throttle linkage, and the plastic part broke. All that hassle just to undo the upper wishbone nut:  which you can't actually see on that image, it's on the left of the HT leads, on a little bulge. Upper wishbone is freeeeeeeee  Tomorrow I should be able to disconnect the brake circuit and the lower wishbone, so that'll be the RH suspension out of the way. I've decided that by Christmas the suspension should be ready to go back in place, although I've spotted a few spots that might need MIG action before it can all go back on the car. Maybe I'll use that time to overhaul the carbs, especially since cylinder n°1 was running a bit lean on the top end of the RPM range. |
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Clement
Europe
ambitious but rubbish
Posts: 2,095
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Just got a call from the training association thingy, I'll begin my welding-fabricating training on Jan 20! I'm a little overjoyed right now. A tiny bit.
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Dec 18, 2013 12:29:30 GMT
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Awesome news. The next Totti/TonyBMW in the making let's hope.
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Clement
Europe
ambitious but rubbish
Posts: 2,095
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Dec 18, 2013 12:35:26 GMT
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It might sound a bit silly, but RetroRides played a huge role in making me want to do this. Seeing these guys resurrect a wreck of a car, making something from scratch or building a toy bulldozer for their nephew made me eager to be able to create something with my own two hands |
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Clement
Europe
ambitious but rubbish
Posts: 2,095
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Dec 23, 2013 17:35:52 GMT
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So, I got all the RH front suspension off the car, although a steering balljoint lost its life in the process. I just have to get both lower balljoints off the hub carriers (not sure about the term here). Then it'll be cleaning, painting, putting in all the new bushes and all that, cleaning and repainting the wheelarches, and putting it all back together.
By the way, I have a question.
On both side off the car, I can see bulges where double-skinned metal has rotten, sometimes it has burst sometimes it hasn't.
1. Do I need to cut out and replace all the rotten metal?
2. If not, would rustproofing both sides (in this case, wheelarches and insides of the frame rails) be sufficient?
I do hope I don't have to take it all out and replace, I have no idea how that's done and it would mean I have no chance to get the car back on the road in January.
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goldnrust
West Midlands
Minimalist
Posts: 1,889
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Dec 23, 2013 18:20:19 GMT
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Plenty to be getting on with then! Still it's all worth while when you re-fit clean shiny suspension parts If you're doing a proper job, and it's bulging from rust you need to cut it out and replace it. Bulging is normally rusting from the inside out, so what you see on the surface may only be half the story. But unless you're doing a full concours restoration there some discretion you can exercise! The other thing to consider is that if it's something you can get at without too much disassembly, could you get hit back on the road with refurbed suspension and deal with the rust as and when you have the time. If it's cosmetic I wouldn't worry so much, but if its structural like frame rails it's well worth fixing. This fairly subtle bulging revealed quite a rotten mess on my Rx7, and I was very glad I'd not just painted over it considering it is underneath the steering box mount and needs to be strong!  |
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Last Edit: Dec 23, 2013 18:22:38 GMT by goldnrust
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Clement
Europe
ambitious but rubbish
Posts: 2,095
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Dec 23, 2013 18:54:44 GMT
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Hmmm I'm afraid I shouldn't cut corners on this problem. On this picture (previously posted) you can see the kind of rust I'm talking about:  (it's near the screwdriver scratches) It doesn't seem that hard to get to even with the suspension in place, as long as the spring is out of the way. That poor steering balljoint:  which might have been whacked with a hammer as well as burnt The empty RH wheelarch:  I won't make the Christmas deadline I had set, too many things to do here and there. I'll be back working on the car in early January I guess! |
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Dec 23, 2013 19:07:16 GMT
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I really think you'll need to cut out metal and replace it. That kind of rust will only ever get worse and the worse it gets the more work it'll be to correct it later. I've done quite a lot of that sort of work and it's not too bad when it's only at that stage. Looking at the condition of the rest of the body, I'd say it was well worth doing it properly, even if it ends up taking longer than you'd hoped. Here's an example of some repairs to similar front inner arch/chassis rust on my Datsun 160J SSS... www.ratdat.com/?p=187 |
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1962 Datsun Bluebird Estate - 1971 Datsun 510 SSS - 1976 Datsun 710 SSS - 1981 Dodge van - 1985 Nissan Cherry Europe GTi - 1988 Nissan Prairie - 1990 Hyundai Pony Pickup - 1992 Mazda MX5
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Interesting how that top link is solid mounted not bushed.
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