andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,220
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Jun 15, 2013 14:36:35 GMT
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It's been decided, I'm to have the girlfiends econ Corsa and she will have a MX5, 'cos I haven't fixed her Sprite yet!
So cars around the £1500 price mark, what to look for and check please? Is the 1.6 too slow or is the 1.8 too thirsty?
Thanks and if you've got a nice one for sale.......?
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,220
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Jun 15, 2013 14:38:26 GMT
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Sorry Mods, does this thread belong in the question section? Please move if it does!
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hkr91
South East
Posts: 562
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Jun 15, 2013 15:02:52 GMT
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Rear sections of the sills... Drain olds get blocked and rots them. Rust around the arches is a common thing too.
Engines are usually quite strong, never driven a 1.6 but the 1.8's are fairly quick for what they are. They're cambelt snap happy in the sense that if the belt does go, the head is that far away you don't have the issue of bending valves (MK1 to MK2.5) so you just time it up, new belt and away you go. I had an issue with the coil pack on mine when I first bought it but other than that, she was amazing to drive..
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Jun 15, 2013 15:55:20 GMT
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Mine is an early 1.6 and it goes fine... fast enough to be fun anyway. Mine managed the Ring well enough although it was a little slow up the steep uphill section after Breidscheid. Lack of torque but I doubt a 1.8 would be a great deal different. Mechanically they are pretty reliable and fairly robust. Serious hoonage can break the diff (which I've managed) and now my gearbox is noisy but then it has done approaching 120k miles. Fortunately replacement parts for them are plentiful and reasonably cheap. Try to steer clear of ones with tatty hoods as that'll cost you £300 (fitted). Hood drains behind the B post can block allowing the interior to get soggy. Not hard to fix this though. I just poked a long bit of coathanger wire down them to free the crud then washed it out with a hose. Another place they can leak is the drain channel around the bottom of the hood. It's made of brittle plastic which can split. Often if this is leaking the water ends up in the boot. A replacement is about £75. If the carpet is shot it's a pain to replace as you need to pull the dash and heater out to remove it. Pulling the dash isn't all that difficult though to be fair. Coilovers and minor performance bits are quite cheap. I paid £140 for new coilovers and £230 for a full stainless exhaust and manifold. 4x100mm PCD means a decent selection of wheels are available, although I run adaptors so I can use 4x114.3mm rims. Watch out if you're going really low. Unless the exhaust is tucked right up it'll beat it flat where it goes under the driveshafts. You'll grind the heads off the bolts under the diff and beat the life out of the chassis rails under the floor. I'm currently repairing mine and replacing the chassic rails with some ones made from 3mm thick box section
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1962 Datsun Bluebird Estate - 1971 Datsun 510 SSS - 1976 Datsun 710 SSS - 1981 Dodge van - 1985 Nissan Cherry Europe GTi - 1988 Nissan Prairie - 1990 Hyundai Pony Pickup - 1992 Mazda MX5
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Jun 15, 2013 16:16:41 GMT
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I will leave this here retrorides.proboards.com/thread/88011 Mx5 nutz and on here is probably the best place to get a good honest car,i bought my scene whore car off will carter on here for not much money,bought a spares car for £300 swapped good bits off the spares car and then parted out the rest.Got a good car with coils,new alloys and tires hood etc for well under a grand.Its now on its 3rd evolution and it is being rebuilt with itb's ,cage etc to go hillclimbing. 5's are great cars,most of the owners and forums are helpful ,bits are cheap,its easy to fix if it goes pop,so buy one you wont regret it
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Ginetta G15 BMW K1100 conversion Sold Mk1 Mx5 on ITB'S Sold TVR Chimaera 400 supercharged MR2 Red Roadster 2ZZ Bee*R 324 Skyline 95 Cherokee Jeep
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Jun 15, 2013 16:25:11 GMT
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1.6 is fine. you`ll have fun whichever engine you get. buy on condition not age. good pcd 4x100 so excellent wheel choice, just look out for rust, they are really one of the cars that everyone should own/drive once, and lots of people never leave them. get onto mx5nutz, really nice bunch of people and really helpful. I had a mk1 1.6 import and it was a fantastic car. if you go for a mk1 1.6 then get a "eunos" ie import as they were more powerfull than the uk 1.6, when motoring journalists go on about "handling" I don't really see the point as 99% of modern cars handle well, but the mx5 is truly the car you`ll appreciate the "handling" of. as long as its not a rust bucket you wont go wrong. also look out for a hard top in the hottest months of the year when they are taking up room in peoples garages as they are a lot cheaper than in the winter. good luck, you`ll love it when you get one.
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Toyota mk3 supra. retro goodness.
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Jun 23, 2013 23:20:57 GMT
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if we are talking about the mk1 then 1.6 is a very revvy engine 1.8 will still rev, but is a fair bit torquier the 1.6 therefore feels sportier, but isnt actually quite as quick in an all out drag race handling is excellent (unless the car needs shocks or bushes) mk1 imports often have lsd fitted they're simple cars and easily fixed if they break engines are non interference (which is what the chap above meant when he says cam belt snap happy) - this is actually quite a rare issue anyways, but if it does go then its a case of simply replace belt not entire head. lots of good cheap parts both here and on nutz hoods can be replaced for under £300 if you search around. £1500 will buy a pretty nice example - so good luck. ps - I'm actually selling a mk1 atm which is within your budget retrorides.proboards.com/thread/152867/1992-eunos-6i-1385-walesbtw if you go for a 1.6 then don't get one newer than 1993 ish as after they introduced the 1.8 they then put out a low power (some 25bhp down on what it had been) 1.6 version. no J import 1.6 will be the low power car, but then nor will a uk car 1993 or older.
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