|
|
|
Feb 28, 2007 19:35:53 GMT
|
|
Hi everybody...
to all of you who followed that insurance thread and know about my hunter, well I went and picked it up, and drove it back here, and not a sweat! Only had to stop for fuel! this baby really like to eat the miles...
OK, I have two initial questions.
1) The Fuel. any recommendations? it has been run on additives, but I am wondering if thats the best choice. Also if I put shell optimax (or v-power, forgot what its called) with the additive is that better or worst than normal unleaded with additive??
2) anybody know a good garage in or around Manchester?? This car has been maintained by the same garage (Church Lane garage) for over 25 years... I like to have a similar kind of long lasting relationship with a garage (or even better one of you!) so that they get to know the car over time.. also it must be cheap (did I even need to say that?!)
3) there is a ticking noise coming from the car (sort of like the sound of a freewheel on the bike). The frequency of the noise varies with engine rpm and its quite faint. what can it be?? engine pinging (how can I be sure?) or some loose tappet or cam follower?!
4) also this is just out of interest... what is the advantage in "showing" your car and what condition does it have to be in to get in to one of those? also is it an altogether English affair or there is room for a hairy middle easterner???
5) if you guys help me out here I will PROMISE to do a thread with pics of the car!
thanks a bunch!
|
| |
|
|
|
|
street
Posted a lot
6.2 ft/lbs of talk
Posts: 4,662
|
|
Feb 28, 2007 20:11:32 GMT
|
Glad you got it back ok! Sounds like it's proved itself to be an excellent motor!  Can't answer all of your questions but i'll have a go at #3: If the ticking is faint I don't think it's anything to worry about. it sounds like tappet noise from the description. In the first instance check the oil level, because if it's low it will make the engine a bit tappety. If the oil level is fine you could try checking the clearances and adjusting the tappets. An engine that has a lot of years under it's belt can be expected to be a little bit tappety to be honest, but if it starts getting worse then it really should be looked at. Hey, i'm on a roll! I'll have a go at answering #4 too: As for showing your car, do it!!! First of all i'd join an owners club or an enthusiasts club. Personally I find these dull as hell but they are a good source of spares and knowledge. They will also have events and meet ups which won't mind a bit of rust or faded paint i'm sure, although some might turn their nose up at modifications, but thats their problem! But better still get yourself to your nearest Retro Rids meet and show it there! No exclusions at a Retro Rides meet for car or driver! It doesn't matter about it's condition in most show situations, unless your entering for concours! Do you have any plans for moddifying the beast yet or is she staying as is? |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Feb 28, 2007 21:08:50 GMT
|
|
first question i would use castrol valve master (from halfords ) and everyday unleaded i used to use this in my h120 rapier(same engine as the gls hunter) with good results no2 I'm just down the east lancs road if you have problems or you need it serviced just pm me no3 could be anything but ill bet tappets on ya hunter no4 ther are loads of shows round ere (tatton park chumley castle capesthorn ) they don't mind wht you turn up in its another classic no4 again were not racist on ere what ever your ethnic background your from as long as you love classics retros well anything powerd by petrol methanol (diesel) etc etc LOL andy
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Feb 28, 2007 22:07:04 GMT
|
Only leaded additive I've had good experience with is Millers VSP Can be found in little black bottles, if I remember correctly. Adds two octane points to a fuel as well, reputedly... I always used this in my 1850 with Shell Optimax (or whatever it's called now). Didn't need to mind, was fine on 95RON but just felt a bit more happy with it |
| |
|
|
|
|
The King is in Manchester!BenzBoy
@benzboy
Club Retro Rides Member 7
|
Feb 28, 2007 22:19:16 GMT
|
|
If your car made it all that way without any problems, I'm pretty sure it's a good 'un! ;D
The ticking, like street said, could just mean the tappets need adjusting. I'd have thought if it was pinking you wouldn't have had such a pleasant journey.
As for showing your car - do it! People show cars in all kinds of conditions from restoration projects with trees growing through them to concours cars with 10 layers of turtle wax on them! Anyone worth bothering with will welcome you whatever condition your car is in, and whatever colour your skin is.
A great way to get involved would be to turn up to a Retro Rides meet. There are lots of members in and around Manchester and they'll welcome you along... check the Events section of the forum to see when the next local meet is.
Now show us the pics! ;D
|
| |
|
|
Panda Matt
Part of things
Datsun Owners Club Wannabe
Posts: 734
|
|
|
|
OK, I have two initial questions.  that was 4! 3) there is a ticking noise coming from the car (sort of like the sound of a freewheel on the bike). The frequency of the noise varies with engine rpm and its quite faint. what can it be?? engine pinging (how can I be sure?) or some loose tappet or cam follower?! 4) also this is just out of interest... what is the advantage in "showing" your car and what condition does it have to be in to get in to one of those? also is it an altogether English affair or there is room for a hairy middle easterner??? I know nothing about hunters, but I do know that on my fasty, I heard a slight ticking noise as described from my speedo cable for about a week before it broke. Is it definitely revs that the frequency changes with, or is it speed? The advantage of showing your car (IMHO) is the satisfaction of seeing other people take an interest in your pride and joy. The best way to demonstrate this is to get some photos up so that we can all start drooling over it on here. The next way is to come along to the next NW meet ( which reminds me...) Matt |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Hi hajsaftar. Nice choice. The Arrow series Rootes cars rock the kasbah IMO.
1. The reason you need an additive is to prevent valve seat recession. Very few cars need an additive to act as an octane booster as well. I would say regular unleaded with Castrol Valvemaster was your best bet. Although that said I run all mine on unleaded without additive. I have not dropped a valve yet... This may not work on rebuilt engines where the valveseats are not workhardened from decades of use... But if its rebuilt it should be converted to unleaded at that time...
2. you're asking in the right place...
3. "they all do that sir" - old cars make a variety of noises. You will gsoon get used to what yours does and whats not right. It could be anything from a loosening timing chain to a little slack in the tappets. Pinking / pinging you will hear only when the motor is under load. If you get this sort it ASAP as it can cause damage.
4. I don't really do shows to show the car. The advantage to me is that I can park in the show and see the show without queueing up or walking miles ot the public car park. Its also much closer for the autojumble! Condition of car depends on how much you get miffed by overhearing people say "well, those wheel arches obviously need some work" or whatever.
Mostly the old car scene does tend to be white/Anglo-Saxon etc. I never really noticed that or thought about it until more "retro" stuff started coming on the scene a couple of years or more back and with it a lot of asian enthusiasts for these cars. Oneof the great things about the internet is I have no idea about the age, race, gender, etc of anyone on here unless I have actually met them. Funny I thought Jaymezr was asian until he popped round mine for some Vauxhall wheels. Being somewhat dyslexic I'd read his name as "Jazmir".
|
| |
1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Whereabouts in Manchester are you? I can recommend a couple of garages but they won't be much use of they are miles away.
|
| |
Jaguar S-Type 3.0 SE
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Hi Neighbour, well close anyway! welcome. I have not been here long enough to know good garages but i'll find out if need be. as for showing your car, perfect times are Retro rides show and retro car show. In My Opinion, these shows are more about the scene, than having a gleaming fully resto'd show car. i may be wrong like. do it, its good to be involved. |
| |
 it doesn't matter if it's a Morris Marina or a Toyota Celica - it's what you do with it that counts  |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Hi guys
sorry for the late reply, my internet keeps going down. For fear of being sued, I won't name the company, but this should be a hint -> if the future is as bright as my internet connection, my eyes would see orange from rage.... ;-)
ok, here is the low down on the noise
1) noise is there even at idle (which almost eliminates pinking as others have also said)
2) however, its not there right at the start. From a cold start, it takes about 30 second for it to come. which against point to the tappets... (heat -> expansion -> gap gets bigger !?)
3) definitely modulated with rpm, not speed
4) engine as I said is running sweet... no oil burning, water temperature is very stable, and for its age lots of oumph.
I understand the issue of noise and old cars. hell, I remember my citron AX in which I couldn't here the horn from all sorts of noises... but what what made me worried with this was that I don't seem to remember it ticking when picked it up in Luton.... now thinking back, it could have been that at the time I was "drooling" so much that I didn't pick the sound up.... and once I had calmed down from the excitement I noticed the noise... ANYWAY.... took it to two garages today, both said its the tappets... but one said if I find a gasket for the rocker cover he will adjust them (I haven't got the tools to do it myself, at the moment), but the other said just leave it as it was because the tappets are probably worn and adjusting means the noise comes back soon... he said if it get's really worst, it could be the cam shaft, which is an engine out job....
I am in fallowfield south Manchester.... but I wouldn't mind going out of my way for someone who knows what they are doing, BTW there will be a few PMs going out soon
I want to show the car because I LOVE this car and I just think its the coolest car ever. It needs doing work to it, but its a sound car. This weekend, if its not raining, there will be pics uploaded here.
on the question of modifying, to be honest I think this car is absolutely gorgeous as it is. My aim is really to bring it back to its best. However, one thing I am considering are the wheel, and the possibility's of some rim upgrade. But before I do that I need to make sure I wont screw the car up but putting bigger rims. I know someone will correct me soon, but doesn't bigger rim mean bigger tyre and bigger tyre means more stress on the the steering assembly?! (track end rods, ball joints etc...)
oh and on question 4, let the show begin! you will soon get sick of the sight of my copper bronze hunter.... by the way, how much is the fee to enter??
cheers guys
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sorry, one more thing
My actual name is Amin..... don't ask where the nickname game from...
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Bigger wheels will usually just mean same radius of tyre just lower profile. some do run bigger tyres... wider ones or funny offset may mess things.  |
| |
it doesn't matter if it's a Morris Marina or a Toyota Celica - it's what you do with it that counts |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
If the noise is when the motor is warmed up its probably because the oil becomes more (less?) viscous as it warms up and this allows more "free movement" and the like in lubricated parts as well as a slight metal-to-metal contact.
If mechanics who can hear the noise are saying its tappets I'd say its tappets. I don't hear so good over the internet LOL
Some engines just are tappetty. I used to have a Viva and that was a biut tappetty I thought, and you could hear the slack in the timing chain at tickover. Well, parked it up next to a mate's Mini and it sounded like a brand new Rolls Royce in comparsion. And TBH there wasn't much amiss with that Mini. Ran well, just was tappetty and chainy.
You can adjust them and it will quietten it for a bit, but the nature of these things is that they wear and just naturally go out of adjustment. Put "adjust tappets" on your annual maintenance schedule. No worries.
Wider tyres, grippier tyres, etc. will theoretically wear the balljoints, rack, rod ends, etc. more than skinny hard tyres. Mechanics of doom will tell you this is the end of the world. IRL you may find that the lifespan of the rack goes from 80,000 miles to 60,000 miles...
Lowering the car lots is the one which is likely to result in a noticably higher rate of consumption of suspension parts like CV joints, ball joints, etc. Even then, "lots" depends on wmake and model. Some will run practically on the floor with few ill effects and some only need to drop a couple of inches before they are eating their way through Quniton Hazels inventory... Often theres ways to engineer this habbit out if you know what you're about.
Radically increasing the weight of the wheel/tyre package increases unsprung weight with worsens handling (suspension reaction) and harshens ride quality. It also increases rotational intertia which means slower acceleration and worsens the braking of the car. However unless you're putting big aftermarket 18" - 20" cast alloys on I doubt you will notice that much difference.
|
| |
Last Edit: Mar 1, 2007 12:10:46 GMT by akku
1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
andy I PMed you.... cheers
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Hi Amin and hello neighbour too.. i'm not far away either,just the other side of stockport. nice motor you have and i'm glad you like it,and its good you found your way here where old cars are appreicated. if your ticking noise isn't tappets,could it be that you have an electric fuel pump? i have one and it sounds like what you describe,otherwise it could be the cam chain getting on a bit. these people are always good for spares,i use them for imp bits and have'nt been let down yet www.speedyspares.co.uk/n1stpage.htmas for shows,don't worry even if everyone else is white,your still more than welcome,one good thing about the classic/modified scene is that racism rarely rears its ugly head.shows in them selves can be a bit dull,but if you go with a good bunch of mates you can have a laugh and pick up bits for your car at the same time. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Hi Amin and hello neighbour too.. i'm not far away either,just the other side of stockport. nice motor you have and i'm glad you like it,and its good you found your way here where old cars are appreicated. if your ticking noise isn't tappets,could it be that you have an electric fuel pump? I have one and it sounds like what you describe,otherwise it could be the cam chain getting on a bit. these people are always good for spares,i use them for imp bits and have'nt been let down yet www.speedyspares.co.uk/n1stpage.htmcheers andy..... if you think you have time to have a quick peep at the car, I am up for it. She will make it to stockport and back no problem. Also I don't expect you or anyone else here to do freebies for me, I would pay for any work done on the car (it just means getting a bigger loan, but hey, you don't fall in love twice...) |
| |
|
|
that was 4!
