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May 17, 2019 21:03:26 GMT
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I had a trundle to town today. Came back with parts. Big end shells and exhaust manifold studs & nuts. What’s fitted at the moment is a mishmash of bits I scrounged from local garages.   Parts… (Manic chuckle.) One hundred and sixty of my English pounds though. (Shock horror!) The big ends look tiny. I’m sure they really are for the big ends and not for the gudgeon pins… There is an “idle up” valve on the engine. It bleeds a bit of extra air into the inlet manifold to raise the tick over if you turn on the lights. Or the demister or a few other things. Last time I was messing with the idle I concluded it wasn’t working and was open permanently. Time to check it…   Basically I hooked it up to a battery and sucked on the hose. It works fine so I don’t know why I thought it was busted when it was on the car. Unless whatever turns it on is permanently turning it on… I’ll check it again when I get it back together. Next I took the clutch off the engine. You remember, the one I fitted last weekend? I took it off again. I’d forgotten to test fit the friction plate on the gearbox splines and didn’t want to to find the box wouldn’t fit because the hole was too small. Or, worse still, find I couldn’t go anywhere ‘cos the hole was too big.   As it happens it’s spot on so I put it back on the engine again. Yes, it is on back to front in the photo. Rest assured it’s on the car the right way round. Lastly today, I slung the box from the ceiling and drained the oil.   I’m in two minds about filling it before it goes back on the car again. It’ll be easier to do while it’s off the car so I probably will. My fingers smell of gear oil now. I really hate the smell of gear oil. James |
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mk2cossie
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 3,047 
Club RR Member Number: 77
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May 17, 2019 21:34:16 GMT
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I also hate it when your fingers smell of gear oil sweetpea  |
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May 17, 2019 22:55:33 GMT
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I also hate it when your fingers smell of gear oil sweetpea You must have an incredible sense of smell if you can smell my fingers from your house.  Actually, forget I said that. The thread'll be getting on dodgy ground again if I'm not careful. Well done on the MOT BTW. Probably should have put that in your thread mind. (Hopeless child...) |
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The Doctor
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 3,445
Club RR Member Number: 48
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May 17, 2019 23:36:08 GMT
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Gear oil is one of the worst 'car smells' there is. Good to see you've got more luck with the clutch then we have! |
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jimi
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,154
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May 18, 2019 12:35:49 GMT
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Basically I hooked it up to a battery and sucked on the hose. It works fine so I don’t know why I thought it was busted when it was on the car. Unless whatever turns it on is permanently turning it on… I’ll check it again when I get it back together. The idle up vsv is controlled by several things, basically it compensates for increased alternator load by increasing your idle rpm by approx 200rpm if any large electrical load is switched on. Off the top of of my head it's turned on by signals (via a diodes) from:- Heater fan motor - running Rear screen demister- on Lights - on Brake lights - on Radiator Fan - running AC (if fitted) - on There's also an output to it from the ECU but I'm not sure what triggers it (I seem to remember it's to do with cold starting, but that may be wrong) I think that's it, I'll check the diagrams later to see if I've forgotten any. |
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Last Edit: May 18, 2019 12:38:52 GMT by jimi
Black is not a colour ! .... Its the absence of colour
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May 18, 2019 23:07:12 GMT
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Thanks Jimi. That’s a fair pile of things to go wrong. Although it’s a Toyota so electrical faults would be out of character. I’ll check it out when I get the box back in and the power on. Speaking of which, I was expecting to be putting the gearbox back in today. But… Crawled out of bed, meeting with decorator, walked to town, yada yada yada. But I did get it refilled with oil. The book says it should take 2.7 litres (or something like that). I managed to get 3 litres in it. Maybe it wasn’t quite flat and level. Anyway, I can see the oil in it through the filler hole (it’s nicely full) and, if it is over full by a couple of hundred mil it won’t do it any harm. The clutch slave bracket contrivance is back together and painted.   I’m quite glad I took that off and tidied it up. It would have annoyed me if I hadn’t. Another little job I wanted to do was to sort out the surface rust on the battery tray.   It got sanded back, rust treated with Hydrate 80, and then some paint. The last coat went on just as it started raining.   Probably hasn’t done the finish much good but as it’ll have a battery slapped on top I’m not too fussed. Another little job was to sort out the oil cooler hoses. The car has a water cooled oil cooler on the bulkhead with two hoses connecting it to the engine. They are commonly believed to leak and, sure enough, mine are covered in oil. But I reckon the oil was from the distributer (now fixed). So while it’s apart I thought I’d clean down the hoses and the block so I can keep an eye on it in future.   Oil cooler hoses drying in the rain… Along with a nice cup of tea. Box back on tomorrow? Maybe? James |
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teaboy
Posted a lot
Make tea, not war.
Posts: 2,113
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May 18, 2019 23:37:15 GMT
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 Along with a nice cup of tea. James Ahh, a nice cup of tea, a wise choice Sweetness. |
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Another little job I wanted to do was to sort out the surface rust on the battery tray.  It got sanded back, rust treated with Hydrate 80, and then some paint. At this point, I thought I was in a @grumpynorthener thread Probably hasn’t done the finish much good but as it’ll have a battery slapped on top I’m not too fussed. Then I realised I wasn't! I won't even discuss milky tea. |
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^^^  Yes, you're quite right. Sorry @grumpynorthener , I'm a pathetic, unworthy student... |
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May 19, 2019 20:11:23 GMT
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Stand aside ladies, I’m going in.   Smoke me a kipper, I’ll be back in time for breakfast. Hauling the box into position…   One of the great advantages of the chain hoist is that I can be under the car and tweak it until the box pops on. One of the great disadvantages of tweaking the chain hoist from under the car is that I can’t see when the hook is caught under the battery tray.   Arrgh. I had to thump it with a hammer and a block of wood, er, I mean, I used my panel beating hammers and dollies to straighten it out again. Needless to say the once average paint finish that got rained on while it was wet now looks, er, well… Lets just say it looks a little more industrial. Anyway, got the engine mounts back on.   I’ve not done the front one yet as I want access to the gear change cables and coolant pipes. I’ve also cleaned the front side of the block and put the oil cooler hoses back on. The starter is back in and wired up. The MC Escher designed clutch mount / gear selector bracket and its back stay is also back in.   Still ned to clip in the gear selector cables, coolant hoses and such like. Lastly I got Mrs Sweetpea to help me flush out and bleed the clutch. I got a bit of a shock when I went to look at the master cylinder. There was so much crud in the hopper that I took it off to clean it.   Evil gritty black crud too. I hope that the crud didn’t get into the master cylinder. I’ve had that before where disturbing the clutch washed crud down and caused it to pump air in to the circuit as it was used. Anyway, with a bit of effort and stupidly running the master cylinder dry a couple of times we eventually got it working. And I know it’s working ‘cos I put the box in gear and turned the drive shafts as the missus used the clutch. I know you can’t really tell until you drive the car but the pedal feels quite nice and smooth. It certainly feels different to a few weeks ago. Happy days! James |
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May 22, 2019 12:42:58 GMT
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Time for another cuppa! You deserve it. Nice mug too.
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May 26, 2019 20:37:08 GMT
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Not sure what to scribble to be honest. I’ve spent a while chucking bits back on the car but not enough to make it work again. All a bit tedious although it’s been quite satisfying dealing with relatively clean parts. When I took the drive shafts off I remembered to to mark the position of the passenger side one. But guess what… I forgot to mark the drivers side. Well look at this.   Old Mr Toyota got there before me. You see the little stud on the gearbox side and the hole in the CV? Well, there are three segments on the flange and only 2 of them have the studs and holes on them. You can’t get it wrong! Good old Mr Toyota. My list of things I took off is getting lots of ticks against it as they go back on again.   Essentially all I need to do is sand blast and paint the sump, pop the new big ends in, fill it with some fluids and start it up. Speaking of sand blasting the sump…   It’s taking an age. Not helped by the fact that I can’t see a thing through the glass. Definitely need to find a glass shop! I felt my left thumb filling with blasting media as well. Little hole in the glove. I’ve got a spare pair somewhere. Poor old sand blasting box. It’s getting some serious use. Remember I cleaned up the oil cooler hoses so I could see any leaks. Look, I found a leak.   There is a drip on the bottom of the front pipe. Now, this came as a bit of a surprise for a number of reasons. Not least of which is that there is no oil in the car. Another surprise is that the top of that pipe isn’t connected to anything, And the bottom end of the pipe is connected to the totally empty oil cooler. So where did the oil come from that made that drip? Has one of you visited my car in the night and dropped some dirty engine oil on the pipe to confuse me? Well my best guess is that there is so much oil soaked in the braiding inside the outer sleeve that it’s now running out. Evidently I did a rubbish job of cleaning them. What I need are replacement pipes… Nah, I’ll just clean them better!   I’ve got some new hose clips too. James |
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May 27, 2019 11:05:34 GMT
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So where did the oil come from that made that drip? Has one of you visited my car in the night and dropped some dirty engine oil on the pipe to confuse me? James Me, I'd be looking' at that @johnnybravo chappie. He's got previous you know.  |
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May 27, 2019 18:50:10 GMT
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Ah yes, good point, well made. I'll blame JB rather than my own failure to clean the hoses properly in the first place.
Although I did think the fake oil puddle was particularly well done. (Top marks @johnnybravo.)
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May 27, 2019 18:53:58 GMT
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I had a little job I wanted to attend to while the cooling water was drained. The dreaded Toyota Waxstat or Auxiliary Air Valve. If you are reading this and don’t know about it in intimate detail… Well shame on you. Where have you been! It bleeds a bit of air past the throttle when the coolant is cold (to increase the idle speed) and then closes as it warms up. A wax pellet in the end has cooling water passing over it to make the valve close (a bit like the thermostat for the radiator). It wasn’t a brilliant design in the ‘80s and 30 years later, well, it’s still not a brilliant design. Here it is, screwed to the bottom of the throttle body.   I think mine was working about averagely for the breed. It was a bit too open when cold causing a higher than necessary cold idle. It took too long to close. And it didn’t close fully. To a certain extent I’d worked round the problems by screwing down the hot idle air bleed to compensate but there was still a problem. You set the idle speed with the engine nicely hot and all was well. But if you went for a blast and got it properly hot the AAV closed a little more and the idle speed dropped too low. So you increased it a bit but now it was idling a bit too fast when nicely warm… Hmmm. Annoying. There is a suggestion that you can adjust the AAC if you are determined. Thought I’d give it a go. First I popped the end cap off from the inside.   That reveals the juicy insides.   The bit in the middle is the part that moves forward to close the valve. The outer bit with the dimples is threaded into the body so, in theory, if you can screw it further down you can get it to close properly again. Easy peasy. Except it’s not. It’s really stiff and a pair of good circlip pliers wouldn’t come close to moving it. You need to make a tool.   I started with a lump of 4 or 5mm steel which I ground into a circle. The 2 centre punch points are where the pins that engage the dimples will go. I just drilled some 2mm holes and hammered in a couple of short lengths of an old Allen key. I’ll show you that in a moment. On the back side, a sturdy bolt got glued on.   And here’s the pins.   Well, one of them. The other broke off. On mine I couldn’t move the adjustment doofer. Well, I could and did. With a bit of heat from a small gas torch I got it to shift half a turn but nowhere near free enough to be able to ‘adjust’ it. My ideal was to stick the wax stat end in warm water at say, 50 degrees, and then screw down the doofer until the valve was closed. But that would need it to be reasonably free and that never happened. Eventually the tool broke. Ah well. Worth a try. I’d like to have seen it working properly. So, having failed dismally with the waxstat I’m going to use the standard plan for when you fail dismally with the waxstat. Defeat it and add an electrical air solenoid. Defeating the waxstat is normally done by jamming a tyre valve cap down the air hole in the throttle body. But that always worries me. If it ever came out it’s going straight down the inlet and through the engine. It’s soft plastic so you’d probably get away with it. But if it got half melted and stuck under a valve? Well, I’d rather not think about it. Since I had the waxstat off the car I could just make a new gasket and miss out one hole.   Original gasket over the top of the new orange one I made with one hole missing. It’s thick gasket material so hopefully the vacuum at idle won’t rupture it. More about the new system when the bits arrive. James |
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May 29, 2019 15:37:16 GMT
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This has suddenly got very interesting. Correction - this is always interesting but the wax aux thingy has really caught my eye.
I know about aux air valves on the Bosch Injection systems, but never seen this type bridging both sides of the throttle body. Looking forward to the electric upgrade!
Also seeing as you cleaned your hoses so nicely, are you going to test them for leaks especially as you thought you had one? Compressed air in a bath or something?
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The Doctor
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 3,445
Club RR Member Number: 48
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May 29, 2019 16:12:55 GMT
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I'm also watching with interest, as sometime in the future* a 4A-GE could roar into life in my car  *it's in the car, but a long way of being fired up. |
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May 29, 2019 17:55:41 GMT
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How do you control the idle speed on the electronic version, home brew box with a rheostat?
Reminds me of being an apprentice, one of the lads was great at electronics, he acquired an Audi 80 that wouldn't cold start, loads of garages had given up on it, and his dad used to get all the problem cars in the area as he ran a small business fixing stuff everyone had washed their hands of.
Anyway he quickly worked out the cold start injector wasn't getting any signals. So he cobbled up a box of tricks to replicate it all, if memory serves; it had an on/off switch and a couple of rheostats so you could manually control the idle air valve opening and mixture. Basically a manual choke, well it was what we were all used to 20years ago, fun times 😀 thanks for stirring the memory banks.
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May 30, 2019 13:47:17 GMT
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And I just reckon the new title is click bait. Interesting stuff though. By the way, wasn't a manual choke easier? I seem to remember any number of auto-choke deletes back in the day, when they were Yung and Fulish. |
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May 30, 2019 20:55:11 GMT
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And I just reckon the new title is click bait. How could you say such a thing!? Actually, and just for a change, I thought I'd use a line from the text as the title. Or something close to it. But that just means that I wind up writing something risqué in the text. Because... Big smutty kid really. I'll get back to the idle up system shortly... You are all remarkably close to the truth. toast00, Could you post any links about the Bosch AAVs? Anything stand alone rather than being bolted to something? I'm curious. James |
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