bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,975
Club RR Member Number: 71
Member is Online
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Hot Ribena - I used to frequent High Beech (just outside London in Epping Forest) it was a popular Sunday meeting point for motorcyclists
Little cafe did a limited choice of beverages tea, coffee and redex
Redex = Hot water and Ribena
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Paul Y
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,951
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Hot Ribena - I used to frequent High Beech (just outside London in Epping Forest) it was a popular Sunday meeting point for motorcyclists Little cafe did a limited choice of beverages tea, coffee and redex Redex = Hot water and Ribena I know/knew it well but was there in what ever flavour of tat I was driving that week. Actually like hot ribena but the weirdest must have been when I rented a garage from an older lady from one fo the Eastern block countries back in the early 80's. Blackcurrent Jam and hot water... Sounds disgusting but is actually really good! And as for dunking - Omar rusks or Grizz home made ones are rather an acceptable substitute for a digestive. P.  |
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,360
Club RR Member Number: 64
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Hot ribena. Lovely. Or it was, until they changed the formula and put the hideous artificial muck in it.
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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Ooh jjeffries - Walnut Whip, not had one for ages. And I'm old enough to remember when they had a second walnut inside on the base! M&S ones still do, had one the other night as the Great British bake off reminded me they exist. Wait, what? Really? You sir have just contributed to my waistline, and for that I thank you  |
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Epic responses!
Best forum evah!
John
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That car cover will likely show-up on Google Earth. Well it certainly seems to be visible to the PIR that controls the outside light. Last night the light kept coming on as the cover flapped around in the wind. I had to instruct the Butler to send the Footman to hold it tight. Now, I know that 'PIR' suggests 'infra red' and I'm not sure how a bright silver car cover falls into that category... But the light kept coming on. Maybe the cover was attracting the local foxes or something. My gran, a Doncaster lass originally, later Lincolnshire, always did hot Ribena and until now I'd not met anyone else that experienced it! I still have hot Ribena to this day. Especially when I have a slightly sore throat. It's lovely. Not too hot mind. And definitely no dunking biscuits of any kind in it. Ooh jjeffries - Walnut Whip, not had one for ages. And I'm old enough to remember when they had a second walnut inside on the base! Ah well. I did like Walnut Whips. But I can't stand the actual Walnuts. Easy, you might think. Take the evil nut off the top, bin it, and eat the rest. But I'm a Northerner at heart and the idea of binning food is unthinkable. Walnut Whips were something of a moral dilemma for me. |
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Ah well. I did like Walnut Whips. But I can't stand the actual Walnuts. Easy, you might think. Take the evil nut off the top, bin it, and eat the rest. But I'm a Northerner at heart and the idea of binning food is unthinkable. Walnut Whips were something of a moral dilemma for me. I have the answer for you Asda sell whips which are walnut whips with no walnut |
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bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,975
Club RR Member Number: 71
Member is Online
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Ah well. I did like Walnut Whips. But I can't stand the actual Walnuts. Easy, you might think. Take the evil nut off the top, bin it, and eat the rest. But I'm a Northerner at heart and the idea of binning food is unthinkable. Walnut Whips were something of a moral dilemma for me. I have the answer for you Asda sell whips which are walnut whips with no walnut How the heck can that be a walnut whip - it's just a chocolate turd in a wrapper |
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I have the answer for you Asda sell whips which are walnut whips with no walnut How the heck can that be a walnut whip - it's just a chocolate turd in a wrapper It's just called whip |
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Last Edit: Dec 2, 2020 0:02:01 GMT by bugtastic
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How the heck can that be a walnut whip - it's just a chocolate turd in a wrapper It's just called whip As mentioned frequently by Tim Westwood in Pimp My Ride - possibly!  |
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Well… A huge amount of nothing has happened to the car. I did dig it out from under the covers the other day. Just to make sure nobody had swopped it for some rusty old basket case. I’ve started a pile of tidying up work in the garage but I’m not getting very far. And I damn well need to. Anyway, more of that another day when I show you my Christmas presents and explain the plan. I have done a couple of little jobs though. I have a new left rear light cluster to fit. The old one was damaged when the wing got bent. The new one has a gasket with it but it’s a bit tired and I have the means to make a new one. So, first, out with the botty jelly.   And once my own personal comfort was looked after I used it as a release agent for the new gasket. The mould gets filled with neutral cure silicone.   And it’s smoothed out / pressed into the corners with a paper scraper.   Then I left it for a week or so. It doesn’t take that long to go off (although it’s not quick) it was just cold in the garage and I had warmer places to be. Eventually… It fits the light anyway.   Shame I won’t be needing it for a week or 30. One of the slightly annoying things about my particular MR2 is that the fuel filler door never fitted properly. The gaps weren’t even. I never worried about it too much because I wasn’t keeping the wing. I’m sure it’ll fit the new wing just fine. While I had the new wing in the garage (it’s gone into storage now) I did a trial fit. And guess what… The door doesn’t fit in the new wing either. The remains of the old wing are still hanging around so here’s the problem.   It sits way to far back. Now you can adjust it on the hinges. But they are bolted on at an angle such that if I even up the gaps it’ll stick out from the panel. And if I set it flush with the panel it’s too far back. It makes me wonder how they adjusted them in the factory. Were they so accurate that they just fitted or did they have some clever tool for adjusting them. I needed to tweak the hinges a bit. Clamp it in the vice like so…   There are a couple of nuts in there so it’s hard clamped on the bolt holes. Next, behind the door I placed a block of wood as a spacer and a block of metal to mark the position.   I need to bend the hinge until the back of the door touches the wood - Or somewhere close. The clever bit is that I can remove the wood, wiggle the hinge and drop the wood back to see how I did. No danger of accidentally moving something. After a bit of messing I concluded that the easiest way to wiggle the hinge was to put my hip against it and wiggle myself.   After a bit of an intimate dance session reminiscent of a scene form Dirty Dancing I was very happy. And the door is a better fit too.   Now there’s only the hefalump in the room to deal with. That little rust spot. I’m sure it’s just a stone chip that’s blistered. Quick paint over with Hydrate 80. Nothing that’s going to need cutting and welding. Easy win.   Damnit Janet! I’ll get the welder out then. One day… James |
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I need to show you some of my Christmas presents. Not from a boastful point of view. (“Look what Santa brought me, I must have been a verrrrry good boy!”) But because it impacts plans for the MR2. Let’s think of this post as a New Year’s resolution. Although I’ve been on the planet for 50 some years and I’ve never kept a resolution yet, so don’t go getting too excited. I’ve had an airbrush for years but never used it much. Well I’ve got some adaptors so I can connect it to my compressor.   I suspect it’ll be way too small but the idea is that I can use it to blow in small repair spots on the car. I’ve heard that this works quite well so it’s worth playing with. I’ll let you know how it goes. I’m going to have to sort out the pressure regulator on the water trap first though. Normally it’s wide open and puts the full tank pressure through. I’m not sure the airbrush will enjoy 120 PSI up it’s poor little end. It’d probably pepper the car with its internal parts. When I wound the regulator down it dropped the pressure but kept the compressor running trying to get back up to pressure. Almost as if I’ve got it in backwards but I don’t believe I have. Next on the list is this - which isn’t a Christmas present.   It’s a cheap rubbish spray gun that came with some air tools when I got the compressor. So it’s quite old. I have used it from time to time. The last job it did was to blow primer on the guttering a few years ago. When I looked at it recently all the rubber seals had failed. Well Santa brought me a box of random sized rubbers. And some seals for the gun. Boom boom!! (It’s like a joke but not very funny.) Now… it happens to have a 1.5mm fluid tip so it’s in the ball park for blowing primer on the car. I was going to use a 2 pack primer and a roller so if it doesn’t go on too smoothly I was expecting to flat it off anyway. Which begs the question… I was dead against spraying 2 pack paints because I can’t do it safely. So what’s changed? I stumbled across Lechler 29107 non-isocyanate primer. Lechler is a decent company as far as I know so it’s worth a punt with the crappy old gun. So what about colour and clear coat then? Well the colour will have to be cellulose. For the clear I’ve found UPOL 20-85. It’s a single pack clear intended for SMART repairs so you just bung it in the gun and spray. The blurb says it “gives 2K performance with the convenience of a single pack” which is probably rubbish but again, UPOL is a well known company so it’s worth a go. I suspect it might not be efficient in that it might take a lot of product though. So I need something to stick this paint (that I’ve not yet bought) to the car. And it won’t be the crappy gun above! Santa came up trumps again.   It’s a DeVilbiss FLG 5. I nearly went for the cheaper SLG 610 but you can’t get rebuild kits for them. And the FLG 5 gets some very good reviews. It’s probably a lot better than I am but that’s the way I want it. If I can’t get a decent finish with this thing it’s definitely my problem! Can’t blame the tools. The other bits are a final moisture trap and a gun pressure regulator. So here’s a question. What’s the difference between the crappy gun and the DeVibiss? Why is the cheap crappy gun worth nothing and the FLG 5 worth a fair bit? Well, for example, take look at the air caps.   The quality of the engineering on the DeVilbiss is just lovely. The air cap has been machined and made to sit exactly concentric to the paint outlet in the middle. Something that’s not guaranteed in the cheap one. It’s a thing of great beauty. I just hope I’m up to the job and can learn to use it well enough to make it worth the investment. So that leaves me with another problem. My old compressor and the likelihood of water in the airline. As it stands the compressor feeds into a copper pipe to try and cool the air. There is then a water trap, followed by a dead leg (again in copper) to try and take the moisture out. It’s good enough for the air tools but not for painting so I’ll be replumbing some of the garage.   The copper pipe is to make a cooling ‘radiator’ in the garage loft space (which is shaded by the house so always stays cool) to condense the water out of the air. And the thing that looks like a scaffold tube is a scaffold tube. That’ll get turned into a proper dead leg to trap the water. Then it’ll go through the existing water trap and into the existing pipework. More of this another day. So then we come to the compressor. One of the reasons for considering the SLG 610 was that it used relatively little air and my compressor would have been ok. But the FLG 5 uses a fair bit more so there is a fair chance that I’ll need an upgrade on the compressor front. Something with two cylinders. Anyway, we’ll see how things go as to whether that’s necessary. But I suspect it probably will be. But… None of this happens until I do the tedious job of cleaning the garage up a little and dumping a load of junk because, at the moment, I can barely get through the door let alone replumb the compressor. James |
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I saw an ad on facebook a couple of days ago for two pack paint that didnt contain any of the dangerous stuff. It was advertised as “ agricultural” colours, so plain black, white,yellow etc no metalflake.
Problem is i cant remember what is was called, but it does exist. Will let you know if I see it again.
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Jawel paints do it, I don't think it needs a laquer either (makes it easier to touch in).
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Since you mention it...
I'm going to have to come over all geeky about black paint.
There were two Toyota black paints used around this period. The early one was code 204 and in about '88 they replaced it with code 202.
My car is (should be) 204 which is listed as 'Black Metallic' in various places. I've seen a Toyota service bulletin which shows it as a clear over base process. So that's what I'll do.
The later 202 would be easier because it doesn't use a clear and you can get tins of it at Halfords if you are desperate.
So the next interesting question revolves around the 'Black Metallic' thing. I've never seen any flake in my car. I think I did in one wing but it wasn't much and all the wings and doors have been repainted anyway so who know what with.
I'm pretty sure the roof is original paint, and probably the engine cover and maybe boot lid too. But I've never seen flake in those panels either. One day I'll polish them up and have a proper look.
It may just be that 204 didn't have flake in it and Toyota clear coated it simply to get the depth of shine they wanted.
Then there is the car's rarity value. Popular rumour is that black MK1s cost seriously more than even the standard metallic colours, and they would have been more than the 'flat' colours. I've never been able to prove this beyond doubt. And I've never worked out why it would have been that black ones cost considerably more. I think I did find a price list on the net and that it didn't even list black as an option.
Whatever the truth, the upshot is that black MK1 MR2s are not common. I don't think I've ever seen another in real life. (But I don't get out much. Especially this past year!)
So the old car deserves to go back into its original colour.
Lastly - Jawel used to advertise a non-isocyanate 2 pack paint. But I read so many stories about it (and other non-iso paints) not going off that I don't want the additional complications. The Lechler primer I mentioned I'm happy to try as its a branded product designed (I believe) to be non-iso from the start. I couldn't find an isocyanate linker for it so I'm assuming it was designed as non-iso.
James
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I use epoxy primer, it is ideal or the home user as it is waterproof so can be left for extended periods in less than ideal climates, non ios-cynate and makes a good barrier coat to prevent reactions with old paint.
Our MX5 is exactly the same ref the black (may even be the same paint /supplier as Toyota), the colour is Mazda Brilliant black (though my paint supplier tells me it only has one constituent colour, Black, so it's nothing special and dead easy to match), it is listed as a solid or base and lacquer, ours looks like it was originally lacquered but has repairs of solid and you really can't tell the difference, they both have a nice deep shine, I have used the pro aerosols on one wing and even they give great results and cover well, though it was impossible to get a good blend over the lacquered surface so I ended up painting the whole wing.
My daughters Street KA (built by Pininfarina) is also exactly the same paint mix not sure if this is lacquered, some bumper scuffs blended in well with the above pro aerosol though.
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I've used an airbrush to touch up some of the bits in the Jag's engine bay, and plan to use it for other out of sight stuff like the inside skin of the roof and the door shuts (the bits beneath the treadplates).
They're dead useful pieces of kit, but they do have some pretty hard limitations. Because they're so small it gets to be a real chore to do anything much bigger than an A4 piece of paper (although that's exacerbated by me still using the dinky compressor it comes with which struggles to keep up without spitting water out).
However, because they're so small there's very little overspray so they don't use much paint at all and don't coat everything nearby.
On the rarity of black front, it could just be that Toyota didn't have good trade deals for quality black paint at the time so were trying to discourage people from buying them. Might also explain the clearcoat over the top if they needed that to make it look right/last ok.
I know Mazda struggled with black paint in the early 00s after they changed to water based stuff, but that's a bit early for your car.
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,360
Club RR Member Number: 64
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I would be wary of mixing paint types and suppliers between coats. I don’t have a vast amount of experience with paints, but what I do have with buying primer from supplier A, and top coat from supplier B, has been one of misery, reactions and redoing hours of prep. My advice would be to set yourself up to use one supplier’s “system” of primer, base and clear, and if that means spending a little (or a lot) more on product and tooling, then it’s going to be worth it in the end. The only way I would consider mixing suppliers again would be on the basis of someone’s direct experience of doing it very recently, not on comparison of data sheets or suchlike.
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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I've been a long time lurker on this thread and thoroughly enjoy it, I don't think I've commented before but have a look on Youtube for 'Pete's Hobbies' regarding the FLG5 and other spraying. He sprays in his garage and has a lot of good info regarding pressure and tip size with lots of comparisons with other guns. he's very much a bloke in a shed doing it for fun.
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1993 Rover 220 Coupe
1972 MG Midget
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I've used my airbrush on cellulose and as above it is brilliant for touching in, the paint has to be pretty thin and you need several coats to get something to work with but the end results after a bit of flatting and polishing can be great, don't know how well it would work over a lacquered surface, I always seem to end up with a visible edge unless on dark solid colours that have been previously lacquered.
For water I find doing a panel or 2 at a time with everything drained out first works fine but a whole car tends to be problematic, I have the compressors in a pit with copper pipe leading to a separator and regulator at the hose connection.
If you are using cellulose there is very little supplier info and if there is any it is donkey's years old because you are not supposed to be using it on cars any more, from my experience I have used cellulose over several manufactures epoxy with no issues and over a 2 pack primer with no problems, never tried lacquering it though I find if you put plenty on it shines up very well and if waxed once or twice a year lasts fine.
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