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Apr 18, 2013 20:56:58 GMT
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So i'm building a 3.9 Rover V8 for my Escort project, got the block back from the reconditioners with the crank installed, crank was turning easily by hand (polished journals, new shells), wanted to replace the main bearing bolts with ARP studs, while i was at it pulled the crank out, cleaned off the oil and put it all back together with Assembly lube (as i thought it'd be better than oil), ARP studs fitted, all torqued down fine, now shocked at how hard the crank is to turn  , needs a 1/2 ratchet on the pulley bolt, hard to turn initially but then turns fairly easily (still with the ratchet) with no tight spots, obviously the tightness is caused by the gloopyness of the Assembly lube, should i be worried about this ?, i'm guessing it'll free off ok once i get the motor fired up ?, only ever used oil on previous engine builds thought i'd give lube a try as i'm being super fussy with this one. Really don't fancy pulling the crank back out to clean it all off  Will stick with oil for the big ends. |
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72 Pontiac Firebird Formula 400. 95 BMW E34 525i Manual. 80 Lotus Elite, sold  86 Mk4 Escort RWD V8, sold |
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It should still turn smooth even with assembly lube, nipped a shell?
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It should still turn smooth even with assembly lube, nipped a shell? I agree with this - something is wrong and should be investigated as better now than when engine installed and running. BTW for an engine that isn't going to be used for a while I once read vaseline can be used instead of oil as it doesen't flow away in storage. In the past I build engines up with gear oil. Paul h |
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Apr 19, 2013 11:46:11 GMT
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Damn it, will need to pull the crank back out then , agree though better to fix at this stage. |
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72 Pontiac Firebird Formula 400. 95 BMW E34 525i Manual. 80 Lotus Elite, sold 86 Mk4 Escort RWD V8, sold |
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Apr 19, 2013 18:43:13 GMT
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Right, just pulled the crank back out the block, all looks fine except for a rub mark on one side of the shell in number four mains cap, also that cap was very hard to get out the block, possible that the ARP studs are not alowing the caps to centralise properly in the block ?, seem to remember the instructions for the studs mentioning the block may need to be line bored (of course i glanced at the instructions then binned them :  , |
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72 Pontiac Firebird Formula 400. 95 BMW E34 525i Manual. 80 Lotus Elite, sold 86 Mk4 Escort RWD V8, sold |
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,841
Club RR Member Number: 174
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Assembly lube ?stealthstylz
@stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member 174
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Apr 19, 2013 18:48:07 GMT
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Could be, line boring just centralises the crank journals and machines them true. Worth having a measure to check, should be tolerances available for them on that engine.
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Apr 19, 2013 19:11:57 GMT
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Doesn't line boring then open up the block / cap dia so oversize outside dia shells needed ? If those shells intended for a line bored engine are fitted into one not machined then I'd expect them to be tight on the crank so could explain the problem.
Also the 3.9 has known common problems in Range Rovers that effectively scraps the block. This is because it was designed as a 3.5 and the machining to take the 3.9, and above, larger liners reduces the amount of metal thus far easier to crack. Before you invest more time and money into the engine did the reconditioner fully check, crack test, pressure test etc the block ?
Simple Google of 3.9 problems will confirm what to look for.
Paul h
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Apr 19, 2013 20:21:39 GMT
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BTW for an engine that isn't going to be used for a while I once read vaseline can be used instead of oil as it doesen't flow away in storage. Paul h That's a good call, as they recommend that you pack an oil pump with vaseline when you fit it. |
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Last Edit: Apr 19, 2013 20:22:28 GMT by moggyman
1953 Minor (Long term project)
PT Cruiser
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,841
Club RR Member Number: 174
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Assembly lube ?stealthstylz
@stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member 174
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Apr 19, 2013 20:34:53 GMT
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No the shells would remain the standard size. When you line hone you grind the cap mounting faces to make the journal undersize (oval), then hone it to stock size. Same when you re-size rods too.
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Apr 19, 2013 20:55:51 GMT
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Cheers guys, re-fitted the crank with the std bolts and Vaseline on the shells  turns a lot better now, looks like the block is intolerant to the ARP studs, £100 down the toilet as i ain't getting the block line bored just to suit them Doesn't line boring then open up the block / cap dia so oversize outside dia shells needed ? If those shells intended for a line bored engine are fitted into one not machined then I'd expect them to be tight on the crank so could explain the problem. Also the 3.9 has known common problems in Range Rovers that effectively scraps the block. This is because it was designed as a 3.5 and the machining to take the 3.9, and above, larger liners reduces the amount of metal thus far easier to crack. Before you invest more time and money into the engine did the reconditioner fully check, crack test, pressure test etc the block ? Simple Google of 3.9 problems will confirm what to look for. Paul h Hi Paul, yep, aware of the problems, first thing i got the reconditioner to do was pressure test the block, block/liners are sound, was then chemical cleaned, bores honed, new core plugs etc, was assured by the local Ebay seller that the motor was an excellent running unit but was filthy/gungy inside (infrequent oil changes) so i decided to strip and fully rebuild. Cheers for the advice anyway man  Heads will be mildly ported with bullet guides, stock EFI cam, Edelbrock inlet, four barrell Weber/Edelbrock carb, backwards TVR headers (to suit instalation), hopefully nice when it's done  |
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72 Pontiac Firebird Formula 400. 95 BMW E34 525i Manual. 80 Lotus Elite, sold 86 Mk4 Escort RWD V8, sold |
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, needs a 1/2 ratchet on the pulley bolt, hard to turn initially but then turns fairly easily (still with the ratchet) with no tight spots, obviously the tightness is caused by the gloopyness of the Assembly lube, should i be worried about this ?, i'm guessing it'll free off ok once i get the motor fired up ?, only ever used oil on previous engine builds thought i'd give lube a try as i'm being super fussy with this one.
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turns a lot better now, looks like the block is intolerant to the ARP studs, £100 down the toilet as i ain't getting the block line bored just to suit them 