bl1300
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,678
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Mar 29, 2013 18:24:38 GMT
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You may have seen a thread on this car in the question section but now the car has arrived and ive started on it, I thought id start a readers rides thread to document her return to the road and restoration. Todays plan was to get her running and start drawing up a list of jobs to do I was succesful on both accounts. To get her running I hooked up a battery stuck some fuel line into a jerry can and connected directly to the pump pulled the choke and turned the key. She fired straight into life and promptly revved up to about 4k rpm before I was able to turn her off again. I traced this problem to a sticking throttle cable which will need so disconected it at the carb linkage. This time when fired up she idled. She is a little lumpy on the idle so will need a bit of tune up, but thats to be expected on a car thats been idle for at least 3 years. Once I had her running I quickly spotted a couple of other jobs. The float chamber seal or at least the inlet pipe joint is not sealing properly on the rear carb, the result is a steady drip of petrol right above the exhaust when running this is the first thing to fix before she is started again. The other thing spotted was some rather perished engine mountings. Going further back the car. The impact on the bonnet has deformed it such that the door catches if opened with the bonnet closed. The roof is leaking as the glue along the front edge has failed causing the skin of the roof to start pealing away and losing tension. There is a patch of welding to do on the same A pillar about the size of a 50p piece and that is the only bit of welding I have found to do anywhere on the car and its also not within a prescribed area. It will be done ASAP though due to its proximity to the upper door hinge. Going inside the car the dash needs re-laquering and the seats could do with some attention, the vinyl is in fantastic condition but the sorbo rubber that bulks out the seat has collapsed with age. So the seats will be stripped back to the frame and the collapsed rubber replaced with modern fire retardant upholstery foam. Ive had both front carperts and the sill carpets off they were glued down but were only hiding nice clean shiny paint. Interestingly whoever resprayed the car has done it inside and out as the original colour was brown. I need to replace both seat belt buckles as they are missing, and the seats need to come out in order to unsieze the for and aft adjustment as this is now required to work for an MOT. So the list of work to do so far stands as such, obviously it may increase as I work my way through it. For MOT 1. Seal leaking carb. 2. Replace engine mountings. 3. Make a battery clamp. 4. Refit clutch slave the right way up 5. Fit new seatbelts. 6. Re glue front edge of roof. 7. Replace one side lamp bulb. 8. Blow out fuel lines and replace any bad sections. 9. Full service 10. Replace throttle cable. 11. Welding on A pillar. After MOT Re upholster seats. Replace missing carpet. Re tension and refit roof Re laquer dashboard. Re paint bonnet underside. Fit a boot rack. Once ive worked through that list I should have one rather tidy Spitfire. Oh and the cars name is Winston this is because its a MkIV Spitfire and is proud to be British. Read more: essexdafs.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=othercars&action=display&thread=461&page=1#ixzz2OxEkjztqthere are a few bad points that will need putting right chief amongst them being this ruddy great dent in the bonnet. the foam in the seats needs changing and their are a few bits of interior trim missing Engine bay is clean and tidy.
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Current fleet.
1967 DAF 44 1974 VW Beetle 1303s 1975 Triumph Spitfire MkIV 1988 VW LT45 Beavertail 1998 Volvo V70 2.5 1959 Fordson Dexta
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,309
Club RR Member Number: 170
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1974 Triumph Spitfire Mk IVChasR
@chasr
Club Retro Rides Member 170
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Mar 29, 2013 23:30:23 GMT
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Ah, standard Spitfire stuff then. This car could be a bit of fun. I know that my 1500 was .
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bl1300
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,678
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What are peoples opinions on the wire wheels. I'm getting howls from the purists to ditch them and fit steels but I kind of like them.
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Current fleet.
1967 DAF 44 1974 VW Beetle 1303s 1975 Triumph Spitfire MkIV 1988 VW LT45 Beavertail 1998 Volvo V70 2.5 1959 Fordson Dexta
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I think they're 'orrible. But I wouldn't listen to anyone else's opinion anyway Just be aware how horrible they will be to keep nice... Can you hit that dent with a hammer from the inside to get it back to roughly the correct shape while you source a replacement bonnet (I assume that would be the plan?)
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...proper medallion man chest wig motoring.
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stevea
Part of things
Posts: 281
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I'm not a fan of wire wheels, but if you follow the purist route you probably shouldn't have the front spoiler either, but it's your can so it depends on what you like. Hope you've got the wiper motor and commission plate tucked away somewhere, couldn't see them fitted in your pics.
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,309
Club RR Member Number: 170
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1974 Triumph Spitfire Mk IVChasR
@chasr
Club Retro Rides Member 170
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+1 on getting shot of the wires. IMO they need to be more set in which I guess the axles would not allow. When I had mine I was either going to get a set of 5J or 5.5J Spitfire wheels (but on the stock tyres) or go with Revolution 4 spokes . MGF wheels also fit, but the front inner arch might require a little persuasion. Do you still come by Cov? I have a number of a bloke who could definitely see you straight on the seats, with his rates being great value (how I wish I knew about him before; the hassle that could have been saved!), and the roof he could sort out cheaper than you think .
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Last Edit: Mar 30, 2013 8:59:31 GMT by ChasR
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79cord
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,617
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I prefer the wire to (m)any modern alloy wheels that could be fitted, and to the grey door-cards & overly thick-rimmed wood steering wheel too, (too '90's looking) so consider the wheels low priority. More important to have it going & enjoyed anyway so look forward to your efforts.
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Last Edit: Mar 30, 2013 9:13:07 GMT by 79cord
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bl1300
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,678
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Steering wheel is going in place for a stock item for sure its too small and makes the steering too heavy. As for the upholstery I have that one sorted Mum trained as an upholster a few years back so is going to sort the seats for me. The spoiler I like but the bumper overiders are doing my head in they have just got to be black, in my opinion they don't look right body colour. The wheels sit far better in the arches now in those pics the suspension hadn't been allowed to settle after jacking up. The wiper motor is missing but sourcing a new one seems to be easy, I'm not used to having a choice of suppliers The comm plate is present and correct. but for some reason hiding in the boot. I'm going to see what I can do with that dent with some blocks of wood and a dead blow hammer later today but I'm pretty sure it will have to be replaced but with some luck I might be able to get it close enough to the original profile that it can be filled.
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Last Edit: Mar 30, 2013 9:21:46 GMT by bl1300
Current fleet.
1967 DAF 44 1974 VW Beetle 1303s 1975 Triumph Spitfire MkIV 1988 VW LT45 Beavertail 1998 Volvo V70 2.5 1959 Fordson Dexta
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ferny
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 986
Club RR Member Number: 13
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1974 Triumph Spitfire Mk IVferny
@ferny
Club Retro Rides Member 13
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Check your tyre pressures. I run 24 at the front and 26 at the rear of the Herald and the steering is spot on with a tiny wheel. I find the original steering wheels far too big and have to sit with my legs bent like Kermit the frog with them.
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adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 5,001
Club RR Member Number: 58
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1974 Triumph Spitfire Mk IVadam73bgt
@adam73bgt
Club Retro Rides Member 58
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Mar 30, 2013 10:02:32 GMT
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I think the wires could look cool with the spokes painted black or a similar dark colour, as for the overriders, how about taking them off completely? or would that make it seem too much like its trying to imitate being an earlier spitfire than it is?..
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Mark
Posted a lot
Posts: 3,825
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Mar 30, 2013 10:41:50 GMT
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I love Spitfires. I had a few over the years and the final one had an 1850 dolomite lump fitted.
Personally, I think the only thing that should have wire wheels is a bicycle! Minilites or wide steels would be way cooler.
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E36 BMW 318is saloon (rare as a hens false tooth) VW Caddy Maxi 2010 (usually full of Labradors)
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Mar 30, 2013 11:17:17 GMT
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I like wire wheels on the right car and I think this is one of those that can pull it off, the knock off caps seem to stick quite a long way out though, is that gonne be an issue for the MOT? I have visions of the GREASE drag race with those caps taking gouges out of passing cars or worse still, some poor pedestrian's legs
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There is no such thing as a curse word car just overstretched expectations................. Herald 10/10 Gasser 10/10 Total score 20/10
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bl1300
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,678
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Mar 30, 2013 11:56:38 GMT
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I like wire wheels on the right car and I think this is one of those that can pull it off, the knock off caps seem to stick quite a long way out though, is that gonne be an issue for the MOT? I have visions of the GREASE drag race with those caps taking gouges out of passing cars or worse still, some poor pedestrian's legs Id hope not their factory fit originals ;D This car was sold with the option box for wire wheels ticked.
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Current fleet.
1967 DAF 44 1974 VW Beetle 1303s 1975 Triumph Spitfire MkIV 1988 VW LT45 Beavertail 1998 Volvo V70 2.5 1959 Fordson Dexta
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bl1300
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,678
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Mar 30, 2013 16:02:36 GMT
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Some more photos I took today. Here she is hiding under her cover due to the fact that her track is too narrow to go over my pit she has to be stored outside. So she has a breathable cover fitted to protect her from the elements. After being rolled off the transporter her suspension has settled down giving her a more pleasing stance. The large amount of possitive camber from the previous pics seems to have gone after rolling her of the transporter she arrived on The area of rot on the A pillar looking to have this sorted by the end of the week. Close up the dash is quite nasty so I will be removing and re-veneering. It will then be laquered and polished up to high gloss finish. This is not my first attempt at rejuvenating this sort of wood work and the last lot came out rather nicely. Oops spoke to soon have found a bit of rot in the sill. Whilst the welder is out to repair the A pillar during the coming week this too will be sorted. Modern cars really could learn a lot about accessibility from this car! This is the dent before I started beating from behind to get rid of it. The original colour of the car, Sienna or Russet? 5 mins work from behind with a rubber mallet has improved the dent. I'm going to use a slide hammer to pull the remainder out and see how well it comes up. At the moment I'm considering just putting another bonnet on it but I'm going to give it a go at getting the dent out as it would save a sizeable sum of money if successful. I also discovered that the original chassis plate is still in place as well as the one in the boot. Only this one was painted over during the respray. Thankfully all the numbers match between the two after scraping the paint off the original plate and also match with the log book. The engine and body numbers are also matching all the paperwork its not been reported stolen, scrapped or written off on a HPI check, so I think its ok.
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Current fleet.
1967 DAF 44 1974 VW Beetle 1303s 1975 Triumph Spitfire MkIV 1988 VW LT45 Beavertail 1998 Volvo V70 2.5 1959 Fordson Dexta
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bl1300
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,678
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First lot of welding done. The A pillar and the rust at the rear of the nearside sill are good and strong now. Although I have found a bit more that needs doing. Isn't that always the way.
The front of the nearside sill has been appallingly welded along its lower edge causing the outer to have seperated from the inner and strengthener. Also the nearside rear trailing link has had some pidgeon poo weld very close to it so that is being sorted as well. This I suspect has already failed an MOT at some point as it has been ringed with yellow chalk.
Provided I find no more rot the welding should be finished by the end of next week. Photos of the work done today coming soon.
Also found an issue that may nessesitate the replacement of the wire wheels. After I removed one wheel to gain good access for the sill repair when it was replaced notable play developed between the wheel and drum. The bearing is not at fault the play is in the wire wheel adapter and is present with the spinner done up tight with a dead blow hammer.
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Current fleet.
1967 DAF 44 1974 VW Beetle 1303s 1975 Triumph Spitfire MkIV 1988 VW LT45 Beavertail 1998 Volvo V70 2.5 1959 Fordson Dexta
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luckygti
Posted a lot
I need to try harder!
Posts: 4,912
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Looks like a great little project. I agree about the wires, but it sounds like they may need replacing anyway I reckon a set of banded steels would look good or maybe a set of Watanebes (Spelling may not be right!) Hopefully that dent comes out OK, a replacement bonnet has to be expensive!!
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It needs more green!
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Click picture for more
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bl1300
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,678
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It needs more green! One answer for that i'm afraid NO! I can't believe how comprehensively this cars respray has been done even under the door cards has been resprayed. Although if I take the mechanisms off its brown under them. In some areas, like under the bonnet though its been done appalinly, the previous paint has not even been keyed. Yet the most is well adhered and a reasonable finish.
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Current fleet.
1967 DAF 44 1974 VW Beetle 1303s 1975 Triumph Spitfire MkIV 1988 VW LT45 Beavertail 1998 Volvo V70 2.5 1959 Fordson Dexta
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jonw
Part of things
Can open a Mouse with a File
Posts: 768
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Nice car. I like the wires.
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Suzuki SV650R The good Triumph T20 The Bad BMW G650GS The Ugly Matchless G12CSR The Smokey Toyota Hybrid One pint or Two?
Ingredients of this post Spam Drunken Rambling of author Bad spelling Drunken ramblings of inner voices Occasional pointless comments Vile beef trimming they won't even use in stock cubes
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stevea
Part of things
Posts: 281
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..... I also discovered that the original chassis plate is still in place as well as the one in the boot. Only this one was painted over during the respray. Thankfully all the numbers match between the two after scraping the paint off the original plate and also match with the log book. The engine and body numbers are also matching all the paperwork its not been reported stolen, scrapped or written off on a HPI check, so I think its ok. You know that there was originally three plates fitted to the car? 'A' on the front outrigger is the chassis number 'B' is the commission plate, which should also have a couple of numbers that tell you what paint colour it was originally and the internal trim colour. 'C' is the body number Only 'B' (the commission number) should ever be quoted to the DVLA or MOT station, the other numbers just confuse them.
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