Mr S
Posted a lot
10-4 Good buddy.
Posts: 2,654
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Mar 20, 2013 14:45:28 GMT
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I'm refurbishing a cylinder head (well, I want to lap the valves in whilst it's off the engine - might as well!), and I want to clean all the old carbon deposits off the head of the valves.
What do people use to do this? Is there an easy (read: lazy) way to do this aside from good old fashioned elbow grease and a wire brush?
Ta!
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Suzuki GSXR1000 K2
BMW R1150GS
BMW K1200RS
Chevy K5 Blazer
Chevy Suburban LT
Jaguar XKR
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Mar 20, 2013 14:50:10 GMT
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If it's an iron head I'd just use a small wire wheel in a corded drill. If it's ally then I wouldn't...
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,855
Club RR Member Number: 174
Member is Online
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Mar 20, 2013 15:56:47 GMT
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For the valves I always put the valve in a hand drill, clamp the drill body in a work bench and set it going, then use some 120 and 240 grit sandpaper to turn the carbon buildup off. For the heads I usually use a brass wire brush in a drill.
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Mr S
Posted a lot
10-4 Good buddy.
Posts: 2,654
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Mar 20, 2013 20:14:50 GMT
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It's an ally head (it's actually a Suzuki GSXR600 motorbike head destined for my GSXR750T, but sshhhh, don't tell anyone lol) with 16 valves.
Good thinking on the drill, I'll just set my pillar drill on a low speed, chuck the valves up in that and make merry with the sandpaper. Should have thought of that myself really...
They aren't particularly bad, but I just want them nice and clean so the valve-sucker-grinder-tool-thing will stick to them properly as much anything!
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Suzuki GSXR1000 K2
BMW R1150GS
BMW K1200RS
Chevy K5 Blazer
Chevy Suburban LT
Jaguar XKR
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Mar 20, 2013 20:17:53 GMT
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Soda blasting, it's defiantly the best way and does absolutely no damage to anything, but its harder to find somewhere to do it
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Mar 20, 2013 20:40:57 GMT
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Soak it in truck wash, worked a treat on my rotor!
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Koos
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Mar 20, 2013 20:42:27 GMT
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soda blasting chap at the farm 0751 119 5556,
he done quite a few bits for mates and he's reasonable £-wise.
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,855
Club RR Member Number: 174
Member is Online
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Mar 20, 2013 21:02:29 GMT
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You're better off doing the valves at high speed thats why I use a hand drill.
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bl1300
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,678
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It's an ally head (it's actually a Suzuki GSXR600 motorbike head destined for my GSXR750T, but sshhhh, don't tell anyone lol) with 16 valves. They aren't particularly bad, but I just want them nice and clean so the valve-sucker-grinder-tool-thing will stick to them properly as much anything! Once you've cleaned them up if you feed the valves through the guides as normal with grinding paste applied, then put the valve stem into the chuck of your drill lapping the valves in becomes a far quicker and easier process. |
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Current fleet.
1967 DAF 44
1974 VW Beetle 1303s
1975 Triumph Spitfire MkIV
1988 VW LT45 Beavertail
1998 Volvo V70 2.5
1959 Fordson Dexta
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Rich
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,256 
Club RR Member Number: 160
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It's an ally head (it's actually a Suzuki GSXR600 motorbike head destined for my GSXR750T, but sshhhh, don't tell anyone lol) with 16 valves. They aren't particularly bad, but I just want them nice and clean so the valve-sucker-grinder-tool-thing will stick to them properly as much anything! Once you've cleaned them up if you feed the valves through the guides as normal with grinding paste applied, then put the valve stem into the chuck of your drill lapping the valves in becomes a far quicker and easier process. You make it sound like you put the grinding paste on the stem for the valve guides 😓 |
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Once you've cleaned them up if you feed the valves through the guides as normal with grinding paste applied, then put the valve stem into the chuck of your drill lapping the valves in becomes a far quicker and easier process. Thats how i've always done them, have never had the patience to try to use one of those sucker things, however a friend who builds race engines did look at me in horror when I mentioned it.... Can get them done in no time this way + you don't end up with blisters |
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taurus
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,084
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Mar 21, 2013 11:32:09 GMT
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Go on ebay for some Quicksilver 'Powertune' - powerboat engine cleaner. Evinrude & Johnson also do a similar product. I've used it to clear deposits on ally engines. For really tough stuff you might need to leave it overnight.
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bl1300
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,678
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Mar 21, 2013 11:40:08 GMT
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Once you've cleaned them up if you feed the valves through the guides as normal with grinding paste applied, then put the valve stem into the chuck of your drill lapping the valves in becomes a far quicker and easier process. You make it sound like you put the grinding paste on the stem for the valve guides 😓 No no thats not what I meant grinding compound on the seating faces should have made that more clear |
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Current fleet.
1967 DAF 44
1974 VW Beetle 1303s
1975 Triumph Spitfire MkIV
1988 VW LT45 Beavertail
1998 Volvo V70 2.5
1959 Fordson Dexta
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Mar 21, 2013 13:28:47 GMT
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Doing it with a drill is a horrible way to do it - if there's *any* play in the guides you'll never keep the valve concentric with the seat, and it only ever rotates one way, which is an ideal way to score the seats.
I have done it though, on standard road engines that just needed a quick de-coke. For anything more interesting, I'd strongly suggest doing it the old-fashioned way with a stick. Do try to find a plastic stick though, as it'll reduce the amount of blisters you get...
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Mar 21, 2013 14:20:10 GMT
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I do reverse the drill quite frequently, seemed to cut them alright, only done bike engines and road engines though, nothing with fancy multi angle seats
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Mr S
Posted a lot
10-4 Good buddy.
Posts: 2,654
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Mar 21, 2013 15:44:15 GMT
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Cheers for all the info folks, I'll have a look at it and see which method I fancy ;D
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Suzuki GSXR1000 K2
BMW R1150GS
BMW K1200RS
Chevy K5 Blazer
Chevy Suburban LT
Jaguar XKR
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MrSpeedy
East Midlands
www.vintagediesels.co.uk
Posts: 4,786
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Mar 21, 2013 17:53:28 GMT
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Doing it with a drill is a horrible way to do it - if there's *any* play in the guides you'll never keep the valve concentric with the seat, and it only ever rotates one way, which is an ideal way to score the seats. I have done it though, on standard road engines that just needed a quick de-coke. For anything more interesting, I'd strongly suggest doing it the old-fashioned way with a stick. Do try to find a plastic stick though, as it'll reduce the amount of blisters you get... All of this is entirely correct! Doing it with a drill produces lines/scores and prevents a proper seat. The natural occillation of doing it by hand produces a far more effective seat, and therefore, seal. |
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Mar 21, 2013 23:51:10 GMT
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What about one of those Gunson valve lapper doo-hickeys?
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Koos
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A wire brush in a Dremel tool works great for cleaning up the combustion chambers on cylinder heads. I did my alloy VW heads and didn't have any issues, I wouldn't worry about damaging them.
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Mar 22, 2013 12:30:32 GMT
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I had an almost 2mm thick crust on the valves of my DS when I disassembled it last winter and couldn't get it to budge with chemicals. Even after putting the valve in the pillar drill and using sandpaper it only smoothed the smudge instead of moving it! Eventually I let the valves soak in, I believe it was WD40 or something, and then used a small blade to scrape the almost asfalt/tar like stuff off the valves. Very glad it wasn't a 16 valve engine  |
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