niwid
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Posts: 1,743
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Mar 15, 2013 10:04:56 GMT
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Right, I'm going to be tackling some of the body work on the breadvan. There is a dent in the rear arch, a dent in the drivers side rear quarter, and some rust around the front arches. None of it is major.
In my head, the plan is to wire wheel the paint and rust in the affected areas, and treat the areas with some Kurust. I'll pop out the dents as best I can. I'll be using body filler (sorry fillerphobes) to smooth the area, and hide the remaining dentage. Then I've got some halfords rattle cans of the original colour, primer and clear coat.
I need some advice on how to get the best out of body filler, and how to get the best result from rattle cans. I could do with blending the paint as best as possible.
I know it's not going to be perfect, but I havn't got money/skills/equipent to do much else.
Thanks in advance
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Mar 15, 2013 13:19:28 GMT
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Go from 120 to 2500 on filler. You need to remove any sanding marks from it to avoid it showing through on the paint. Make sure the surface is free from grease (buy some degreaser from a paintshop - it's about 15 quid for 2 litres), make sure the primer and spraypaint you are using are compatible, and won't go that crazing thing, and take your time between coats. If you've never done it before, you'll probably mess it up, but that's reduced by the amount of preparation of the surface you put in.
Also do light sprays with the rattle can about 10 inches from the body to avoid it running.
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Last Edit: Mar 15, 2013 13:20:03 GMT by DavidB
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Mar 15, 2013 20:36:35 GMT
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whoah sweet jesus! you don't need to be going any finer than 600 grit on filler, I personally would stop at 400.
Get the filler where you want it, then put 2 or 3 coats of primer on followed then a light mist of a contrasting colour as a guide coat to show any imperfections. Sand this back with 800 grit on some kind of pad until all the guide coat is gone and you are happy. You'll probably repeat this step about 5-10 times.
Once you are finally happy, degrease the panel and put a few coats of basecoat on. The lacquer needs to go onto un-sanded basecoat (ignore what the halfords cans say) so if you find yourself having to sand the top coat at all, you really should put another coat of paint over the whole area, or once you put lacquer on, any basecoat you've sanded will look patchy and awful.
As for blending, my best advice is to remember that for any area you fill you'll need to prime a few inches past that, sand a few inches past that, then topcoat a few inches past that, so a 2" circle of filler can easily end up 8" of lacquer even on a somewhat bodged repair.
1000 grit and so on are for sanding top coat to be covered with more topcoat or polished with compound to a shine. With "proper" paints like 2k, the top coat of colour can go over a surface prepped with 320!
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Mar 15, 2013 21:38:47 GMT
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yep id finish up the filler around the 320/400 mark , don't go finer as the primer needs that key to stick well
make every last effort to clean every trace of rust away ..kurust doesnt do alot
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91 golf g60, 89 golf 16v , 88 polo breadvan
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rodney
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Posts: 1,677
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as above don't go fine on filler, start with 80 to shape it etc , use a piece ov old rad hose for edges with curves as a block , then upto 400 to loose scratches, some filler primer over that, then knock primer back with 1000/1500 ready for paint,.
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facebook: rodney dean / rd transport ![](http://i564.photobucket.com/albums/ss82/rodney_racing/40322327267617s.jpg)
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Mar 18, 2013 19:17:29 GMT
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You lot our mad, if you use 2pack primer you can finish it in 80/120. Aerosol primer 180 will be fine. If your painting it in a straight colour you can flat the primer in 320 and go down to 500 for base and laquer, possibly 800 for silvers etc...
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