JC
Part of things
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12. Hide your stuff. Most car thieves are oportunists and I have had a car broken into for a pack of cigareetes before. Hide everything. If you have GPS or whatever in the car either remove the mounting brakets when not in the car or use some kind of discrete mounting system. Nothing says "there may be a GPS in the glovebox" more than the mounts all there and wires dangling down. Mount headunits right under the dash or in a glovebox or behind a facia or something and keep the stock povo AM only radio in the dash as a red herring. also rings on the windscreen are a giveaway that there is a sat-nav used in the car - pretty much an invitation for someone to look in the glovebox on the off-chance 20. Valet mode - if you take your car to be worked on anywhere, or leave it in attended parkig or whatever, don;t give them the key with the alarm fob / master key / or give any details of security to them. I remember a guy in the CCI when I was a member had taken his Capri 2.8i Brookland to a local garage for an MOT and left it with them and explained the security to them. The day after this is was nicked, and no sign of damage. Turned out one of the MOT statiin staff had cloned the alarm fob, keys and everything and came back the following night and helped himself. not thought of that, will be more careful in the future. Always remove my house keys from the ring though, they know my address i'm not giving them the oppurtunity to get the key copied! 21. If you fit an expensive Clifford alarm, put Toad Alarm stickers on the car not the Clifford ones... No point in giving a thief any tips about what brand of security you have. That's a really good idea too, very helpful poster there Mr K! Stuff like engine cut-outs etc are good, but it wouldn't deter a thief from breaking in to attempt to steal it, so you're gonna be left with a broken window, jimmied lock or bent door frame. Might do one anyway as it's nice and easy to do. |
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Last Edit: Feb 7, 2007 16:52:44 GMT by JC
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street
Posted a lot
6.2 ft/lbs of talk
Posts: 4,662
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After mine got nicked in December I baught one of those Disklok things. Like its been said, Thatcham approved, supposed to be very very good from the reports i've read. They come in different sizes, and although mines a 'small' its fairly loose on my XR3 sreering wheel, it's still not able to be removed whatsoever. £80 like, but IMO totally worth it.... actually its £80 in halfords, but I later found out they are a fiver cheaper in Argos  I was thinking the other day actually. Standard steering locks on steering columns- Why don't manufacturers make it so that instead of locking so that all thieves have to do is apply a bit of leverage to break them, why not make it so that when the car is locked the steering wheel spins freely without engaging with the steering column. Thus, the thief wouldn't be able to use brute force to bypass the steering lock. Surely not that difficult and surely much better?? |
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Electrically operated linelock in Brake and clutch lines Stand on brakes, and clutch, activate line lock with hidden switch etc, switch off ignition, remove Master switch Cant drive off with the brakes on, cant tow it either, If you fit one of those positive locks to the gearshift linkage then you can do the opposite with the clutch, line lock it so it cant be depressed |
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I was thinking the other day actually. Standard steering locks on steering columns- Why don't manufacturers make it so that instead of locking so that all thieves have to do is apply a bit of leverage to break them, why not make it so that when the car is locked the steering wheel spins freely without engaging with the steering column. Thus, the thief wouldn't be able to use brute force to bypass the steering lock. When he retired my old man was making a bit of asideline introducing whacky inventor types with no business skills to his ex-contacts in industry. He was hawking a parent for this exact idea round 10 - 15 years or more ago. A couple of the OEMs (I think it was VAG and Rover) and an aftermarket manufacturers (Momo I think) were interested. They were going to pay the guy like £100,000 each for the rights to manufacture, plus some costs, plus a few bits. PLus VAG (I think) said they'd pay him like £50K for 6 months consultancy to oversee them putting it in to production. Geezer would have walked away with close on half a million quid and my dad would have pocketed £50K as his comission. The other makers would have doubtless followed on as well if it was seen as a success. And probably pay £150K each to catch up! So then the bloke turns round and says "Actually I want a million pounds off each of them up front and a royalty of £10 on each car sold with one fitted for the life of the patent." Daddy-dear trys to talk him out of it but he's determined if they want it they'll pay up. So after the laughter has died down the inventor chap gets nothing at all. Lesson to be learnt there. I don;t think my dad spoke to him again after that. * exact numbers and manufacturers may be wrong as I'm remembering this from a long time back! |
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Last Edit: Feb 7, 2007 18:14:46 GMT by akku
1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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some great ideas in there might put a couple into practice myself
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Today I drove into town in my Civic, parked in a car park and chucked a stoplok on. I am aware that a stoplok isn't great but when left unnattended in a public place it's better than nothing and reasonably convenient for local round town use. Or so i thought. Today I couldn't find the Civics keys so when I left I grabbed the spare set for it and only realised on my return to the car that there was no key for the stoplok on them. Damn.
The only tool in the car was one of those little folding multi tool things with a pen knife, pliers etc ...kind of a glorified swiss army knife. It took me little more than 5 minutes to take it off just with that so I can confirm first hand that a stoplok is virtually useless. A pro with the right tools would have that off in a matter of seconds.
The weak link of any locking device is the lock itself and most locks can be cracked very easily. You can buy the tools online to get into most locks, including the ones used on stoplocs etc. I think the only way to go is to disable the car using your own inventiveness to create a system that hard for a thief to suss out because it's not commercially available but to use some kind of visual detterent too. After they've got your visual detterent unlocked and the car still won't go or move there a chance they'll give up on it.
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1962 Datsun Bluebird Estate - 1971 Datsun 510 SSS - 1976 Datsun 710 SSS - 1981 Dodge van - 1985 Nissan Cherry Europe GTi - 1988 Nissan Prairie - 1990 Hyundai Pony Pickup - 1992 Mazda MX5
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street
Posted a lot
6.2 ft/lbs of talk
Posts: 4,662
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When he retired my old man was making a bit of asideline introducing whacky inventor types with no business skills to his ex-contacts in industry. He was hawking a parent for this exact idea round 10 - 15 years or more ago. A couple of the OEMs (I think it was VAG and Rover) and an aftermarket manufacturers (Momo I think) were interested. They were going to pay the guy like £100,000 each for the rights to manufacture, plus some costs, plus a few bits. PLus VAG (I think) said they'd pay him like £50K for 6 months consultancy to oversee them putting it in to production. Geezer would have walked away with close on half a million quid and my dad would have pocketed £50K as his comission. The other makers would have doubtless followed on as well if it was seen as a success. And probably pay £150K each to catch up! So then the bloke turns round and says "Actually I want a million pounds off each of them up front and a royalty of £10 on each car sold with one fitted for the life of the patent." Daddy-dear trys to talk him out of it but he's determined if they want it they'll pay up. So after the laughter has died down the inventor chap gets nothing at all. Lesson to be learnt there. I don;t think my dad spoke to him again after that. * exact numbers and manufacturers may be wrong as I'm remembering this from a long time back! Thats a sad story, i'd have been pretty bitter about that. I'm sure the inventor fella was kicking himself for his greed after though  |
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 it doesn't matter if it's a Morris Marina or a Toyota Celica - it's what you do with it that counts  |
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Four wheelclamps: £200 ish.
Effort required to fit them when you park: slight.
Parking wherever the feck you want: priceless.
*n
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Top grammar tips!
Bought = purchased. Brought = relocated
Lose = misplace/opposite of win. Loose = your mum
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tigran
Club Retro Rides Member
In rust we trust. Amen.
Posts: 6,444
Club RR Member Number: 142
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Security measurestigran
@tigran
Club Retro Rides Member 142
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That's a good point pensk.
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1964 Rover P5 i6
1987 BMW 525e - The Rusty Streak
1992 Micra K10
2001 BMW E46 316i
2002 BMW E46 330Ci
2013 BMW F31 320d
2018 BMW G31 530d
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Security measuresBenzBoy
@benzboy
Club Retro Rides Member 7
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Four wheelclamps: £200 ish. Effort required to fit them when you park: slight. Parking wherever the feck you want: priceless. *n Take a sturdy chain and padlock with you to chain to the nearby gutter / lamp post for the ultimate Council-employed-hiab-beating-win  |
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Take it from me..Bulldog wheel clamps are pretty damned inconvenient to fit. Okay for long term but for daily use it'd be way too much hassle every time. An SOS clamp is a lot more convenient but won't fit all wheels.
On older cars where the ratchet of the handbrake is accessable you can drill a hole through there to take a padlock. That's fairly effective and cheap. On my 510 and 610 the throttle pedal is only held on with a C clip. I have thought of altering it so it easily removed. All I'd have to do is pull off the clip, slid the pedal from it's pivot and unhook the cable from the top of it. No throttle whould make the car kind of hard to drive away ;D
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1962 Datsun Bluebird Estate - 1971 Datsun 510 SSS - 1976 Datsun 710 SSS - 1981 Dodge van - 1985 Nissan Cherry Europe GTi - 1988 Nissan Prairie - 1990 Hyundai Pony Pickup - 1992 Mazda MX5
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Didn't someone on here also mention a while back a lad with a Escort RST who had screwed a steel eye into his drive to chain his car to when he left it. PITA to carry out but something like that might work through drain grates at the side of the road. Yes, that was me! The guy had a hoofing great hoop concreted into his drive, with a big chain and massive lock around his front towing eye. God only knows what would happen if he forgot to take it off. Wouldnt work with a drain grate, they can be lifted out but it would work with a tree or lamp post. Ultimate visible deterrent. A couple of ideas I heard of from the olden days, wire the starter curcuit to the brake light switch you you can only start the engine with the key with your foot on the brake pedal, easy to wire in I would have thought. Wire the horn to the door handles, if anyone tries the door the horn sounds, owner is roused, beating ensues. It could be disabled by a secrret switch somewhere around the car. |
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Last Edit: Feb 8, 2007 6:07:00 GMT by Lankytim
1987 Maestro 1.6 HL perkins diesel conversion 1986 Audi 100 Avant 1800cc on LPG 1979 Allegro Series 2 special 4 door 1500cc with vynil roof. IN BITS. HERITAGE ISSUES.  |
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The "Krooklock" type thing that linked up the steering wheel and clutch was called the Strong Arm. Just make sure that if you get one you don't hook it up to the brake pedal. I once saw a driver get into his Cortina (that shows how long ago this was!) after a few beers, start the car and perform a full circle in a pub car park and collide with the landlord's XJ6!
The Dis-Car-Nect. I once bought something similar (without the fuse link). While I was going to work one morning, the *word deleted* thing rotated round and cut off all the electrics half-way round a roundabout in the rush hour.
I'd go for the wheel clamp. Realistically, you need n angle-grinder to get it off, and that would make a lot of noise!
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1953 Minor (Long term project)
PT Cruiser
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Strong Arm - thats the one. PC couldn;t get that one off at all. Its a german "pick prrof" lock, and specially hardened steel body. Also makes a trememdous weapon should you need to defend yourself, they are bloody heavy!
Thing it you have to make sure any of these are fitted tight and I recall that the Stong Arm used to damage the steering wheel (shiny plastic type) or leave irritating indentations in the soft type.
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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I think the trick is, how "period" do you want the inside/outside of your car to look, and how modern do you plan to make the engine.
If you have fitted electronic ignition/electric fuel pump or converted to EFI, there is nothing to stop you going the whole hog and having a full modern wired in alarm, to that you can usually add central locking and electric windows, so you can have total closure on the click of one switch. useful in carjack situation.
Inside the car, IR or motion sensors can stop them before they get close to even starting the engine and tilt sensors can make sure it isn't knicked.
With old cars, and wear in the lock, cars from a similar make might work, so think about getting the standard locks replaced with high security dead locks with modern keys. Again it won't look "right", but better to be there looking "wrong".
Also, see about maybe a wheelclamp rather than a steering wheel lock. You would need to be a total twonk to consider nicking a clamped car.
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Today I drove into town in my Civic, parked in a car park and chucked a stoplok on. I am aware that a stoplok isn't great but when left unnattended in a public place it's better than nothing and reasonably convenient for local round town use. Or so I thought. Today I couldn't find the Civics keys so when I left I grabbed the spare set for it and only realised on my return to the car that there was no key for the stoplok on them. Damn. The only tool in the car was one of those little folding multi tool things with a pen knife, pliers etc ...kind of a glorified swiss army knife. It took me little more than 5 minutes to take it off just with that so I can confirm first hand that a stoplok is virtually useless. A pro with the right tools would have that off in a matter of seconds. The weak link of any locking device is the lock itself and most locks can be cracked very easily. You can buy the tools online to get into most locks, including the ones used on stoplocs etc. I think the only way to go is to disable the car using your own inventiveness to create a system that hard for a thief to suss out because it's not commercially available but to use some kind of visual detterent too. After they've got your visual detterent unlocked and the car still won't go or move there a chance they'll give up on it. I bet no-one challenged you while you did it either! |
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1986 Citroen 2CV Dolly Other things. Check out my Blog for the latest! www.hubnut.org |
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Security measuresDarrenW
@darrenw
Club Retro Rides Member 74
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Electrically operated linelock in Brake and clutch lines Stand on brakes, and clutch, activate line lock with hidden switch etc, switch off ignition, remove Master switch Cant drive off with the brakes on, cant tow it either, If you fit one of those positive locks to the gearshift linkage then you can do the opposite with the clutch, line lock it so it cant be depressed My Dad had some kind of valve wired into the brake line on his old E28 528i BM... You put a key in and turned it IIRC, it was in the glove box so the brake line must've been re-routed. I've got a full-wheel disklok on the Golf, it was the only one that ever looked any use in the reviews I read, and it's quite visible too  It's also had the handles replaced with ones off the rear of a 4-door so there aren't any lock barrels - the doors unlock/lock via the Toad alarm system |
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Last Edit: Feb 8, 2007 13:36:48 GMT by DarrenW
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I've got an idea for a car alarm that I'll share with you now, get the cheapest car alarm that works off the door switches on the interior light, somewhere like Maplin. Then get some sort of timer, that gives you 5 seconds before it activates the alarm, Maplin might be good for that too. You've then got 5 seconds to switch it off as you get in the car. Otherwise make sure the alarm can be switched off by a key fob or something. Then instead of the siren (because who takes any notice of car alarms? ) wire it up to a smoke bomb. Have a look here: www.bullnet.co.uk/shops/test/alarms.htm and scroll down for ""This includes a 12v triggering module and 20 smoke canisters. Each canister will fill a large room in a very short space of time! 20 smoke canisters 1 trigger module" Once the alarm goes off your car fills with smoke. This means they can't steal it because they can't see. They won't be able to steal the stereo because they won't be able to see it. They won't be able to vandalise the inside because they won't be able to see their hand in front of their face.... I've tried a smoke machine in an enclosed space and you really can't see anything at all ;D It should also make people stare more than a car alarm - imagine it parked in Tescos car park and smoke pouring out of the doors, I'd look, wouldn't you? The author accepts no responsibility for any information contained herein etc etc, but if you try it us know how it goes |
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Genius. have a spare 12v battery feeding it too, that will freak em out if/when they chop the wire. |
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it doesn't matter if it's a Morris Marina or a Toyota Celica - it's what you do with it that counts |
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[*]
;D
It's also had the handles replaced with ones off the rear of a 4-door so there aren't any lock barrels - the doors unlock/lock via the Toad alarm system 