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Jan 25, 2007 17:33:11 GMT
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following on from what i said in reanimations thread ive just bought these  speak up, i cant hear youamp may be sh1te, it may not, for the price i think its worth the risk.  |
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Jan 25, 2007 18:15:11 GMT
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Both sets of speakers are gooduns as I recall. I've had several infinitys of that range before and the Pioneer TS stuff is pretty good VFM kit. The old TS-E series used to sound better for £40-£50 than some of the stuff costing more than twice that...
The amp - 2000W don't make me laugh.... Amazing how people marketting amps totally ignore the laws of physics. 12 volts, 15 amp fuse... tell me how you get 2000W out of that...
However, assuming its something like a 4x50W RMS @ 4 ohms jobbie. most of this far eastern no-brand stuff is actually OK assuming you set it up right - don;t go mad with any "bass boost" and keep the levels set sensible. Probably no more than 60-70% on those kind of amps.
People talk a lot of crepe about super duper "SQ" amps and how you can really hear the difference if you buy an Alpine or Phoenix Gold or whatever... Most people won't hear a damn bit of difference over a cheap one (assuming its set up right).
£50 the lot seems a rather good buy to me, a decent wiring kit is £20...
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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Jan 25, 2007 19:02:17 GMT
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Action stations. brill, Rockin Tunez@RRshow 2007!
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 it doesn't matter if it's a Morris Marina or a Toyota Celica - it's what you do with it that counts  |
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SteveP
Part of things
300 Maniac
Posts: 757
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Jan 25, 2007 20:51:02 GMT
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Hehe... much the same way as I purchased all my kit, albeit seperate auctions. 4gauge wiring kit for £3 anyone?! ;D I only chucked a load of money at the front components, the rest was fairly cheap.
Looks like a good buy, and good to see some useful info on audio here - rather than "yeah yeah... 6x9's and a sub innit..."
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2003 - Volvo S60 D5 SE (Daily)
1989 - Volvo 360 GLT
1985 - Volvo 360 GLS
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Jan 25, 2007 21:46:22 GMT
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alastair, unless its been advertised wrong, the 15A fuse is for the internals, not for the power cable. you'll want to put a minimum 40A inline onto that.
there is, i agree, mucho curse word about SQ/SPL equipment, but believe me, if you are heavily into your bass in a show winning way, you will notice the difference in quality, resonance and clarity at higher volumes...
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Jan 25, 2007 21:54:27 GMT
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He meant that the on-board fuse on the amp was 15A.
It'll be an improvement over standard, & if that's all you're looking for you should be happy. Especially for £50.
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Jan 25, 2007 22:04:02 GMT
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He meant that the on-board fuse on the amp was 15A. It'll be an improvement over standard, & if that's all you're looking for you should be happy. Especially for £50. what ive got currently is a bit more than standard. ;D the amp I'm currently running isnt really pushing the subs to their best performance. like i said, it may be ok or it may not.if not il punt it on again and look for something else. also gonna sell the fitting kit, custom tcc fit FTW. the speakers are probably gonna find their way into the modern w124, cos the system is pants in that. previous owner has raped all the good stuff and fitted some shonky taiwanese tat. oh, and FTR the current inline is a 60A.  |
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15A was an example as its typical of the cheaper amps. 60A fuse (if thats the correct fit) suggests a meatier amp. I can't remember the maths right now but you can work out the total maximum power of an amp from the fuse. I know of amps where they have four parrallel power feeds each with a 60A fuse on them... I'd believe they make 2000W. How a lot of manufacturers come upo with their figures is to take the actual RMS power output @ 2 ohm per channel, then multiply that by four or five to give a "Peak Power Watts" or "maximum music power" number then multiply that by the number of channels. Some of them just plain make them up. Its kinda like the ricer kids who think they have a 200 BHP Saxo because they have a cone filter, cold air pipe, Peco back box, fat wires, Samco hoses, etc. and they have added up the "maximum power gain" advertised for each item and added that to the stock power of the car. Also be aware that watts are measured at 12.2V 13.7V and 14.4V by different amp manufacturers. Can make a significant difference....
I've sat in a car with a pair of genuine 800W RMS amps running a pair of 12" subs and it was flexing the roof panel of the car. Seriously the roof panel looked like water it was all over the place. I also saw the amount of power cables and additional batteries which were required to get that effect. So when I see an amp with a single 4 gauge power input claiming 2000W I'm suspicious. Look at the size and weight of a D2 which is a genuine 2000W RMS amp. Its the size of a boogie board and weighs as much as a sack of spuds.
I'm not trying to diss the amp in the auction, its probably a decent enough piece of kit and for the price its a bargain no matter what. Just trying to educate or at least show some sanity over claimed power ratings.
A good example is an amp I had which was an "American Bass Pro" or some such brand. Claimed to be 1600W 4 channel. It was a decent performer (and it was chromed!). But I replaced it with a Pro Plus amp which was advertised as "4x45W RMS" and this was noticably louder...
Yeah, if you are serious you need proper kit. As I said I had a pair of beautiful hand made Xtant 2200i amps which I was sad to part with. 24db/Octave customisable crossovers, all hand made, individual birth sheets, beautify visually and sonically.
Sadly all my cars have a noise floor high enough that you can't really appreciate the difference between "average" and "excellent" kit in them. That said I have a pair of Orion XTR amps (again fairly retro, back from the days when the Xtreme range was serious hardware!) and I'm looking forward to installing them in one of the beasties at some point. I have a Directed Studio sub which I used to have in my P5B and thats a sweet SQ sub.
Hmmm... I thought I was about over the ICE thing, now I'm feeling the need to get some of that stuff out of the attic and whack it in one of the cars. Better get one of them running really...
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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Jan 26, 2007 10:30:47 GMT
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I use a simple formula:
Draw (amps) x Voltage x Efficiency = max. rms watts
So in this case 15A x 14.4V (probably the max. you’d expect from a car) x 60% (a rough idea of the efficiency of a class A/B amp)
So 15 x 14.4 = 216 x .6 = 129.6wrms
That’s around the most power you’ll get from the amp.
It's rough, but gives you an idea.
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LowStandards
Club Retro Rides Member
Club Retro Rides Member 231
Posts: 2,704
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Jan 26, 2007 11:22:45 GMT
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I used to run and Amp and sub made by a company that no longer exists called Ultimate. These are the best speakers i've ever bought and had a price to match, i think the amp was £460 and the sub £350... I'm sure the amp was quoted at 300w RMS bridged across its 2 channels and i have no reason to doubt that. You do get what you pay for! the cable to power it cost me about £120 FFS
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Jan 26, 2007 11:34:04 GMT
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I use a simple formula: Draw (amps) x Voltage x Efficiency = max. rms watts So in this case 15A x 14.4V (probably the max. you’d expect from a car) x 60% (a rough idea of the efficiency of a class A/B amp) So 15 x 14.4 = 216 x .6 = 129.6wrms That’s around the most power you’ll get from the amp. It's rough, but gives you an idea. Thats the one. So @ 14.4V you could expect an amp like this with 60A fuse to push close on 520W. Assuming thats a 4 channel amp thats 130W @ 2 ohm so about 65W RMS per chanel at 4 ohm and about 240-250W RMS bridged mono. Now whether it gets 14.4 or 13.7 in actual use is another matter, but... The numbers don't sound so exciting but thats actually showing itself to be a very respectable amp. For £50odd with 4 speakers and wiring kit thats a spanking good deal in my book. I remember the Ultimate amps, many of them were 1 ohm stable in stereo mode (or 2 ohm bridged) which made them cracking little powerhouses for the money. Nearly bought one myself once or twice. |
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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Jan 26, 2007 16:02:37 GMT
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BOOM BOOM BOOM BOOM, KICKING PAIR O' TRAINERS!
;D
I'm a legend with ICE! Had benz for 18 months with no stereo. Get the skoda and promptly source head unit. Stick head unit in skoda, get skoda on ramps, then revert to using benz again!
So still no tunes in my daily! ;D
tw*t
not much help am i .... Nice purchase tho TCC!
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