79cord
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,617
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Apr 21, 2014 13:15:40 GMT
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Great work once again!
Black panels do make you think of plastic replacements, as an alternative to the fragile alloy panels of HF spec.
The rough matte black panels, lettering, de bumpered, lowered & alloys on fairly high profile tyres all match a purposeful period racer look perfectly.
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goldnrust
West Midlands
Minimalist
Posts: 1,887
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Apr 21, 2014 21:27:32 GMT
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Thanks guys  It's really nice to look out of the window and see what looks like a car, rather than a mess of filler and primer! I'm glad the stencilling hasn't offended too many people  After an initial re-adjustment of the pan hard rod, the scrubbing of the rear tyres has finally been eliminated. So pleased to have finally got to the bottom of that This evening the paint was feeling a bit harder so I got on with putting the trim back on. As previously discussed on this thread, I used adhesive sealant to stick the trim on, rather than using the standard metal clips as it seems like likely to cause rust problems in the future. I got the chrome round the headlights and grill on.  And the matching trim round the rear panel.  Finally I gave the inside a quick hoover out and tidy up as it was rather dusty after all the bodywork.  I've done a couple of hundred miles over the past 2 days, so nice to be back out in my Lancia I had missed it. |
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Good work mate, is the bonnet a permanent fixture? Keep it up |
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Last Edit: Apr 22, 2014 3:24:56 GMT by r31mark
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eurogranada
Europe
To tinker or not to tinker, that is the question...
Posts: 2,556
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Apr 23, 2014 14:50:45 GMT
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Not to put you down or anything, but I'll reserve my opinion on your paint until you've finished sanding, buffing, polishing. I have a feeling that the pictures don't yet do it justice.
But I do really like the colour on the car and I agree that it must be a great sight to see the car uniformly coloured.
Are you happy with the straightness of the panels? That to me seems a scary moment, hoping the shiny paint won't highlight something you've never noticed before.
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goldnrust
West Midlands
Minimalist
Posts: 1,887
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Apr 23, 2014 18:29:41 GMT
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r31mark, the plan is for the bonnet to be very temporary, but time will tell I guess! Id like it to be red and the same as the rest of the car looking smart but it'll have to wait till I've got a few quid that couldn't be better used elsewhere on the car.
Alex, you're right, the paint isn't showing it's true depth of shine yet. This is the best finish I've got straight from the gun, but it's still pretty poor really. I know a bad workman blames his tools and all that, but I don't think my super cheap suction fed spray gun helps when it comes to getting a good finish! Still I keep spotting it out of the window and it makes such a difference to see it all one colour.
Some of the panels I'm very happy with, others less so. I'm glad I spent so much time working on the door shut lines, I can really see the difference. There are a number of ripples I missed though. Again how noticeable they'll really be will have to wait till I've polished it to find out. I'm not too worried though, it's about driving it and enjoying it not polishing it. I'm not trying to end up with a concourse finish, I just want something that passes the 6ft test!
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eurogranada
Europe
To tinker or not to tinker, that is the question...
Posts: 2,556
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By the time you're there, I think you'll have more then supassed that goal!
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Yep, the hard graft's paid off. Looks a treat. It'll be a beauty when it's polished up.
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Apr 24, 2014 10:10:33 GMT
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Good job, nice to see it back in paint and ready for the summer
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Apr 24, 2014 12:04:09 GMT
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just had a big old catchup, well done on the work i found that flatting off a top coat to remove runs/differences in levels of paint (rather than just flatting as a step before mopping the paint) deffo got the job done, deffo got a uniform silky smooth surface. however it did go thin in areas, even down to the primer, ultra annoying and i literally have everything crossed for you |
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Last Edit: Apr 24, 2014 12:05:05 GMT by darrenh
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goldnrust
West Midlands
Minimalist
Posts: 1,887
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Apr 26, 2014 20:18:57 GMT
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Fingers crossed that I shan't have any issues when flatting the paint I put a good depth of lacquer on, so should have some room to work. Worst case senario, I've got plenty of paint left so can always just respay a panel or two. I've been pottering on the car when I can through the evenings of this. Gotta say it's nice not to be working under such heavy pressure as I'd put on myself to get the body work finished. For example the cigarette lighter illumination had stopped working. 10 mins later I'd swapped out the blown bulb and all was well again. Likewise the 1st speed on my heater blower had stopped working, a few minutes with the multimeter and I'd traced it down to a fractured wire, easy fix for free and on top of that I don't get really first and don't have to wear masks/ear defenders/googles to fix it so life is just more pleasant. Other things I've done this week, the rear badges needed some TLC before they got refitted.  Some fresh back paint and a quick polish (not upto your standards Luckyseven….) later and it's looking much better.  With the badges fitted and the reflectors the rear of the car is now complete and looking good I think  The only question in my mind is whether I should fit a second number plate light on the other side of the numberplate just for symmetry. The single light illuminates it fine, I just wonder if it kinda looks unbalanced. I've got another matching light, just once I've drilled holes in the rear panel to mount it, there's no going back! After polishing the rear badges, I had a uncharacteristic urge to clean things, so polished all the bright work over the whole car. It's amazing how much of a difference it makes. I'm kinda counting down the days till I can flat and polish the paintwork and see that shine properly.  Seeing as I started my megasquirt build months ago now, and the bodywork has come to a stand still, I figured I ought to carry on with that next really…. First step towards getting it installed in the car was to sort out the trigger wheel. After some careful measuring to make sure it was centred, I welded the trigger wheel to the front pulley. It's not the prettiest welding I've ever done, and I know it doesn't need to be seamed in as it's not exactly load bearing but I got carried away! It's certainly not gonna come off…  To make room for the trigger wheel on the front of the engine, I cut and shut my lower radiator bracket to push the radiator about 1cm forward. I'm glad I did as the the lower bracket had practically detected from the radiator! A bit of soldering and a squirt of black paint later and it was ready to go back together.  Space in the nose of the Fulvia is generally pretty limited, and with the extended pulley and brackets it was a bit of a 3d puzzle to put back together. I worked out that if I put the radiator in place, but not bolted down, I could just about get the pulley back on and then bolt the radiator down. Bit of a pain if I need to take the radiator out to have to remove the pulley, but equally it's not often the radiator needs to come out. All that was left was to make a small right angled bracket to hold the crank sensor and we're sorted. You can't see in the photo but there is about 0.5mm gap between the sensor and the pulley. I was pleased that I spent the time lining up before welding as the trigger wheel runs really nice and true.  Today I spent a bit of time mounting the Megasquirt unit itself under the glovebox, out of sight of anyone who isn't lay in the foot well but still nice and easy for me to access to plug tuning cable into etc.  I've bought some relays and a mini fuse box and was going to start building the power distribution side of my EFI loom today, but then realised I'd forgotten to order some heavy duty wire for that, so ended up helping a friend work on his motorbike.  I'll pick up some wire in the week, and I'm sure Ill find a couple of hours one evening to start on the loom. I should be able to build the Megasquirt system totally independently of the existing ignition stuff, so again no pressure of dismantling the old system and having a time frame to get the new one working, which is nice |
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Last Edit: Apr 26, 2014 20:20:59 GMT by goldnrust
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crahel
Part of things
Posts: 210 
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Apr 26, 2014 20:35:39 GMT
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Great work on the trigger wheel. Ill be following your megasquit install with interest.
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1973 Lancia Fulvia s2 coupe (sold)
1998 Audi a4 sedan (sold)
2000 Nissan maxima (sold)
2007 Audi convertible.
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goldnrust
West Midlands
Minimalist
Posts: 1,887
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Made some good progress on the Megasquirt install over the past few days Firstly a couple of nights ago, I made up a bracket to go in the glovebox to hold my new fuses and relays.  Then this evening I sat down and got busy wiring. I made as much of the wiring up as possible on the bench, as it's much easier than trying to solder while lying in the footwell/with my head in the engine bay! Here's the beginnings of the loom, with the relevant wires for my spark only initial install separated from the rest of the wires for the injection side of things. For now the injection wiring will just be tied up out of the way.  I managed to get a good portion of the wiring in the car tonight. Whilst it might not look like it in this picture, I am using wire colours other than red! I'm just using red for +12v, and these fuses and relays are just for distributing 12v to the Megasquirts systems. I've wired in a main relay for power to the Megasquirt and ancillaries, meaning I can keep my new loom as separate as possible from the original loom (easier to remove in future if I want and less interference from old non shielded electronics). The relay feeds 12v to the fuses, one for the ECU, one for the coil, one for the injectors, and one for the fuel pump with it's own relay.  The wiring fro the crank sensor and coil have been run into the engine bay, and the wiring under the glovebox toed up temporarily.  Will have some time to work on the car tomorrow afternoon, so presuming I don't hit any big problems, I've just gotta wire the crank sensor, mount and wire the coil, sort the input to the tach and then take her for a drive! Speaking of which, curse word phone pic, but there've been a couple of nice evenings recently, lovely retro car weather  |
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goldnrust
West Midlands
Minimalist
Posts: 1,887
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Not really much to see of todays progress with the car, but plenty to talk about! The only real visual progress was that the engine bay started the day looking like this:  And ended it looking like this:  Still lots of tidying up of cables and stuff but it did mean that all of the major components for the spark only install of Megasquirt were complete. For today I left the distributer in place, so if it came to it I could always swap back to the old system at a moments notice. The last job before the moment of truth was to open the plug gaps up from the small points gaps to nice big gaps for direct fire from a coil pack When the moment came to turn the key, it fired into life beautifully, so it was just a case of using the timing light to confirm that the base timing was set right and it sat there idling away just nicely. Problem number one reared it's head at this moment, no tach. The tach was originally triggered off the coil -ve terminal, but seeing as I'm now using a wasted spark coil pack, that option has gone. I had built a little circuit as part of the Megasquirt which is to supply an output to a tach, but it wasn't working. I spent an hour or two swapping in optional components and testing things out before giving up, it wasn't gonna stop me taking it for a drive today. This evening doing some research on the Megasquirt forums and manuals, I've found an alternate way to trigger the tach in this exact situation using the -ve terminals of the coil pack, and an array diodes, I should be able to get the tach working. A job for tomorrow! So out for a drive!  It feels good, idle is much stronger, pick up of idle is stronger and the extra advance at small throttle openings is really noticeable in how well it cruises. I'm looking forward to spending some proper time refining the map and making the most out of the engine, it makes me really excited to get on wit hthe next step of fuel injection to see those gains too! I made a little mobile phone video, to show just how solid the idle is and the pick up from idle. Another thing that the video shows well is just how little vacuum this engine draws with the 35mm carbs. On a data logged run the maximum vacuum I drew was 50kpa (~7.5psi). Cruising at 30mph with my foot barely touching the pedal it was only showing 10-15kpa of vacuum. No wonder some people who'd experimented with vacuum advance distributers on the forums said they made no difference, they'd have only been adding 1 degree of advance probably! With a few updates to my map (visible in the video) I could really feel the difference the extra advance at cruise made. Then I found problem number 2, after getting stuck in some rush hour traffic, I started experiencing a heavy misfire.  I pulled into a side road, checked the laptop, and realised I was getting sync loss. This is when the Megasquirt can't interpret the signal from the crank sensor properly, so just kinda gives up trying! A quick wiring check showed nothing unusual, so I decided to limp home, but about 200 yards up the road, all of a sudden it cleared up and ran great again.  So I carried on my drive, did 10-15 miles of country roads no problem. I had noticed the engine getting warm enough for the fan to kick in during the traffic, so when I got home I let it idle on the drive till the fan kicked in and you it was suffering from sync loss again. Some googling suggests that the particular crank sensor I bought doesn't like getting hot….and it's sat just behind the radiator in my installation. From the posts on forums, there's another sensor which is more heat resistant but it doesn't have the nice threaded body mount which makes setting the gap to the trigger wheel easy. So another job for tomorrow is to see if I can do anything to insulate my current sensor from the heat. All in all I'm pleased, and it's gone smoothly. Worst case scenario with the crank sensor is I have to make a new bracket and spend ~£30 on a different sensor, and hopefully I can sort the tach out tomorrow now I'm armed with more knowledge In other news, the slight oil weep from a couple of dampers, has turned into definite oil leak from all 4 dampers. I did say it was gong to bankrupt me! |
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Last Edit: May 2, 2014 21:11:39 GMT by goldnrust
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duncanmartin
Club Retro Rides Member
Out of retro ownership
Posts: 1,320
Club RR Member Number: 70
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That's awesome. Well done with the ignition stuff, I'm sure you'll get on with the fuel soon! Leaking dampers - good excuse for coilovers.  |
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well done chap. had the same issue on my first astra with the tacho/MBE/swapping to DIS pack. stupid question incoming, can the megasquirt not drive the tacho from rpm and tdc reference via the crank trigger wheel or is the signal not strong enough for your lancia dials?
second thing, OEM inductive crank triggers have shielding to stop RFI and EMI from electrical items like alternator, wiper motors, injectors etc etc. since it goes haywire with a large electrical load nearby (cooling fan) could it be that? just thinking out loud though.
lastly, sounds like you are sorted on the tacho fix, but if not and you get stuck i have a basic schematic to drive it from the coil pack triggers (earths). as you found out its fairly tricky as there are two coils firing at half the rate of the traditional coil, so have to combine the signals and rectify
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Last Edit: May 3, 2014 10:36:19 GMT by darrenh
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Good work on the 'squirt mate. In the video she sounds a bit V8ey on idle  ? |
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Koos
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Siert
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,107
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second thing, OEM inductive crank triggers have shielding to stop RFI and EMI from electrical items like alternator, wiper motors, injectors etc etc. since it goes haywire with a large electrical load nearby (cooling fan) could it be that? just thinking out loud though. This came to my mind as well. |
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goldnrust
West Midlands
Minimalist
Posts: 1,887
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Duncan, leaf springs make coilovers a complex option I will look to get adjustable performance type dampers though, and being just dampers it's much more affordable than coilovers. Cheers Darren. The Megasquirt does have a tach output function, which you can calibrate to various speeds to use with different types of tach, it's just a case of conditioning it the right way so that the Lancia tach will see it. I didn't realise but initially I'd set the circuit up to give a signal for a more modern ECU driven tach. Last night I dug out the documentation that shows the 2 recommended circuits for driving tach which were originally driven by the -ve terminal of the coil. See the diagrams here: msextra.com/doc/ms2extra/MS2-Extra_Hardware.htm#tachooutToday I tried the array of diodes, as it seemed easiest, but it didn't work. Next time I've got some spare time I'll try the version with a relay coil in it. For now I've just hooked the tach up to one of the coil -ve terminals and it's working at half speed. I have had a break through (fingers crossed!) with the crank sensor. It was definitely heat, in stationary traffic the engine got hot, shortly after the fan cut in I started getting sync loss, which continued after the fan cut out, and went away about 30 secs after getting cold airflow into the front of the car from traveling at speed. I then drove 20 mins with no problem, pulled up at ho,me and let it idle on the drive till the fan cut in, then cut out again, and same sync loss problem. Drove it round the block and it was gone. After having the first thought's about it being heat related I went on the Megasquirt forums, and found other people with the same problem. As far as shielding, I'm using shielded cables for the crank sensor, and all the Megasquirt wiring is on a totally independent loom from the rest of the car to minimise interference. I messed with trying to shield the sensor today from the heat, but had no success. The wiring advice online said the sensor works with supply voltages from 5v-24v, and so you can use either the nice sanitised 5v sensor power output from the Megasquirt to drive it, or just a 12v connection from the battery. I'd been running it from the 5v as it would have less chance of interference and all, but being on there limit of the spec it did make me wonder if it might work better on 12v. So about an hour ago I went out for a drive, with the sensor still connected to 5v, all was well. Pulled into a lay-by and let the engine temp get high enough for the fan to cut in. Sure enough sync loss started occurring, and continued once the fan had cut out. So I quickly stopped the engine and swapped over the connections to use a 12v supply. Fired the car back up, no sync loss. Let it idle till the fan cut in, no sync loss. Kept revving it and let the fan cut in and out 2 more times, no sync loss. Woo! I'll have to keep an eye on it, as on a properly hot summers day traffic jam it might get hotter than it did tonight, but for now I'll call that success. Just need to run a proper tidy 12v feed from one of my fused supplies in the glove box, rather than the wire hastily bodged onto the + terminal on the battery but that's only a small job. I've also been playing with the map today, pushing it closer to what looks like an ECU map and further from a distributer curve. The engine's responded really well to extra advance once max torque has passed, and is now pulling on noticeable harder at the top of the rev range. I also pulled a little advance from the cells just off idle, meaning it drops right down to idle quickly and smoothly now, rather than hanging momentarily like it always used to on there distributer. |
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kev13s
Part of things
Posts: 96
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hi great work! I'm also a fulvia owner and I've had a good old read of you're build, I'm particularly interested in the megasquirt installation.
I think the york red is a great colour when it's polished up, really shows off the lines!
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duncanmartin
Club Retro Rides Member
Out of retro ownership
Posts: 1,320
Club RR Member Number: 70
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I was only joking - it doesn't need more lows anyway. Adjustable dampers sounds like a good idea just so you can set it up exactly how you want.
Sounds like you're making great progress with the megasquirt. I guess it helps having done that stuff before. When are you planning on getting it doing the squirting?
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It's really nice to look out of the window and see what looks like a car, rather than a mess of filler and primer! I'm glad the stencilling hasn't offended too many people 
It feels good, idle is much stronger, pick up of idle is stronger and the extra advance at small throttle openings is really noticeable in how well it cruises. I'm looking forward to spending some proper time refining the map and making the most out of the engine, it makes me really excited to get on wit hthe next step of fuel injection to see those gains too! 
I pulled into a side road, checked the laptop, and realised I was getting sync loss. This is when the Megasquirt can't interpret the signal from the crank sensor properly, so just kinda gives up trying! A quick wiring check showed nothing unusual, so I decided to limp home, but about 200 yards up the road, all of a sudden it cleared up and ran great again. 
So I carried on my drive, did 10-15 miles of country roads no problem. I had noticed the engine getting warm enough for the fan to kick in during the traffic, so when I got home I let it idle on the drive till the fan kicked in and you it was suffering from sync loss again. Some googling suggests that the particular crank sensor I bought doesn't like getting hot….and it's sat just behind the radiator in my installation. From the posts on forums, there's another sensor which is more heat resistant but it doesn't have the nice threaded body mount which makes setting the gap to the trigger wheel easy. So another job for tomorrow is to see if I can do anything to insulate my current sensor from the heat. 
?
