goldnrust
West Midlands
Minimalist
Posts: 1,880
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Dec 16, 2013 13:54:53 GMT
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haha, the problem with single wiper is I can't see! The wipers aren't exactly large even with two of them theres lots of unswept screen.
DTA S540 doesn't mean anything to me? Google didn't bring anything up either. Of the ~£900 total to convert to fuel injection, only £200 would be the Megasquirt ECU itself. If I was putting Megasquirt on a car already running fuel injection and electronic ignition (like when I did for my mx5) I'd only need to spend the £200 on the ecu. The cost comes in here because the car has so little electronics. It soon adds up when you need crank angle sensor, crank trigger wheel, coil packs, relay & fuse board, fuel lift pump, fuel high pressure pump, swirl pot, new fuel lines, throttle bodies, injectors, coolant temp sensor, air temp sensor, oxygen sensor, etc.
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Dec 16, 2013 15:04:38 GMT
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no shame in going to electronic distributor though, one of the best things i did on my landy, you get that new points feeling but it lasts forever
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Dec 16, 2013 19:36:56 GMT
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no shame in going to electronic distributor though, one of the best things i did on my landy, you get that new points feeling but it lasts forever Agree. I'm happy with the Pertronix on my Fulvia.
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1987 Alfa Milano/75 1979 Alfetta Mille Miglia 1976 Alfetta GT race car 1970 Lancia Fulvia 1.3 Rallye S 1968 Fiat 850 spider
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goldnrust
West Midlands
Minimalist
Posts: 1,880
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Dec 16, 2013 21:11:56 GMT
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This car is my first experience of points, and i have to say they've been a lot less hassle than people make out. But yes replacing the points with an electronic igniter does have its advantages Looks like I'll need wipers to drive to a clients tomorrow, so I had to get on and fix my wiper arm tonight. The pin holding the sprung arm to the fixed aluminium section of the wiper is missing. And the fixed section of the wiper is broken on one side. I suspect the pin started to work its way out, then when it was half way out the one side of the alu section wasn't strong enough and snapped off. If you look careful you can see that the other side of the bracket is very worn, with the hole quite ovalised. Last week I repaired the clutch master cylinder on my motorbike with a similar broken alu casting, so I was feeling fairly confident about getting this fixed quickly tonight. The first job was to tidy up the rough edges of the casting and cut some small sections of alu to be welded to it. MIGing aluminium is a bit of a pain in the ass ( note to self - learn to TIG weld!) but I seem to be able to get it to work relatively consistently by making sure the sections to be welded are very clean, freshly sanded and by chamfering the edges of butt joints, so the weld has somewhere to pool (also means if the penetration isn't great then even when filed down flush theres a decent blob of weld in the joint). Anyway I broke out the welder and things got messy…. Then I filed down the welds, re-drilled the holes and re-assembled the wiper with a temporary m5 bolt as a pivot. I'd like to get a replacement riveted pin really, but I don't have anything like that lying about. I'd lost the wipers spring, so had to improvise! I'm pretty pleased with the result. Once the m5 bolt has been swapped out you'd never know that it'd been repaired, and the wiper clears the screen just as effectively as before.
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goldnrust
West Midlands
Minimalist
Posts: 1,880
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Dec 21, 2013 20:36:35 GMT
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Good news, windscreen wipers still work Bad news I've got a serious fight on my hands with the wheel bearing Ever since the drive home nearly 12 months and 10,000 miles ago, I've been chasing this rhythmic grinding/knocking noise. I've replaced so many parts chasing it round the car, but in the summer I finally found something that seemed conclusive. I determined the noise was road speed related and clearly comes from the front of the car. With all 4 CV joints rebuilt, the gearbox swapped and the left wheel bearing replaced the only thing left is the right wheel bearing. I pulled the right front bearing in June and found a chip on the inner race, I didn't have any space cash at the time and so I repacked it with grease and put it back in. The noise was instantly reduced, which was good as it meant I was finally on to a winner! The car came off the road shortly after that for welding, and with my ignition parts I ordered last week I finally got the replacement bearing. As ever replacing front wheel bearings on a Fulvia is fairly simple in theory, and difficult in practice. All I needed to do was to pull the drive shaft out, whip the front brake calliper off and undo the lock ring holding the wheel bearing in place. It took me about 20 mins to get to the point of undoing the lock ring, but thats where progress stopped… The lock ring requires a special Lancia tool to remove it, which I hired for replacing the left bearing. When I first pulled the right bearing I made my own tool with some 25x6mm angle steel. Coupled with my 3/4" breaker bar it worked just great. Then when I refitted the bearing I did it back up the same way. Sometime in the last 6 months that lock ring has stuck solid. I started trying to pull the bearing yesterday at a friends. Double garage + bright lights made it easier and comfier than working in my dim single garage! We tried the breaker bar, no luck. So broke out the rattle gun. He's got a Snap-On electric gun which is mega powerful, but it just sat there rattling! After about a minute of rattling full power, it munched my tool. Take two today, again it didn't take long to get the drive shaft out and brake calliper off. Another of my homemade tools, one that holds the hub nut tool in place so it can't jump out, has really been earning its keep recently! Then some fabrication, this is my second attempt at the lock ring tool. This time using 8mm round bar, more bracing and DIY hardening. I teamed it with this 7ft bar built of assorted bits of scrap from around the garage and my exhaust rear section! I hung off the bar, nothing. Moved it round and stood on the bar and bounced up and down, nothing. The good news is that this tool seems much stronger, but i'm definitely gonna need a bigger boat bar! I'm hoping to pick up some 25x3mm box steel from my dad next week, so I shall take the fight to the lock ring then! I don't like this defeat feeling, I will keep fighting!
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Last Edit: Dec 21, 2013 20:41:14 GMT by goldnrust
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jpsmit
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,268
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Any chance the nuts are handed? On my Midget they are left and right hand thread - don't ask me how I found that out.
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crahel
Part of things
Posts: 210
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Heavy work tring to get those nuts free. I'm not looking forward to changing my fulvia's wheel bearings.
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1973 Lancia Fulvia s2 coupe (sold) 1998 Audi a4 sedan (sold) 2000 Nissan maxima (sold) 2007 Audi convertible.
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goldnrust
West Midlands
Minimalist
Posts: 1,880
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Dec 22, 2013 14:50:51 GMT
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I'm pretty damn sure it's a normal thread…. I'm bored, was playing with photoshop, wish I hadn't now. This needs to happen, question is 14s or 15s!
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Clement
Europe
ambitious but rubbish
Posts: 2,095
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Dec 22, 2013 15:17:44 GMT
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Yesyesyesyesyes!!!! I say 14s, it looks more aggressive while still being subtle
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Dec 22, 2013 15:40:40 GMT
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my austin has left hand thread on passenger side for a week i was jumping on the bar hit with a sledge endless different air guns and tools 9ft bar bost endless rachets and bent bars and use whole can of shock and unlock spray to find out i was going the wrong way all that time nowhere does it state the passenger side are left hand thread and drive side was normal thread
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goldnrust
West Midlands
Minimalist
Posts: 1,880
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Dec 22, 2013 16:15:24 GMT
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Well the hub nuts are both normal threads, and googling it brings up nothing regarding a left hand thread, just lots about the lock ring being difficult to remove. My first lock ring removal tool was already twisted from it's previous use suggesting normal thread. That said I have tried jumping on the bar turning the nut clockwise too, but it still didn't move Now I have a stronger tool I'll try to borrow my friends big rattle gun again and failing that weld a big length of box section to the tool, which should flex less than my bodged together bar and hopefully transfer more torque. When I first did the shop I felt the 15s actually looked OK, and low profile tyres should transmit more road feeling which I liked, but on reflection it's the 14s all the way. I shall be keeping my eyes open for some SSR mk2s! Should be a much simpler modification to fit than the Maserati wheels would have been. I'm particually liking the idea of mk2s, because the works rally cars used 4 spoke Campagnolos which have a similar look. But I think SSR mk3s or Hayashi Streets or other old skool Japanese wheels could look good
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Last Edit: Dec 22, 2013 16:19:45 GMT by goldnrust
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Dec 23, 2013 20:33:05 GMT
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Get a big bar and I'll come swing on it! On my buggy it took 2 of us on a 10 ft pole? The ssrs need to happen.
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Koos
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luckyseven
Posted a lot
Owning sneering dismissive pedantry since 1970
Posts: 3,839
Club RR Member Number: 45
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Dec 23, 2013 20:48:26 GMT
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Steve, not trying to teach you to suck eggs, dude. Have you tried putting a good high-lift jack under the breaker bar handle and using the jack to lever the handle round? It's a good time-served way of bodging the 54mm flywheel nut off on rotaries, for those of us without windy guns. Several thousand leptons of torques in your average jack
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Dec 24, 2013 13:12:10 GMT
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my advice is use a hot spanner.
and also a sturdy length of scaffold pole slid right over the breaker bar to the UJ, don't want to waste all your energy into sprung steel
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goldnrust
West Midlands
Minimalist
Posts: 1,880
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Dec 24, 2013 13:50:43 GMT
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Cheers for the tips guys. I've now got some study box section steel, slid that over the breaker bar and hung on it this morning. The nut didn't move and I pulled my shoulder… Serves me right for walking into a freezing cold garage and immediately hanging my body weight off that shoulder So I swore at it and will worry about it after christmas! My friend with the burly rattle gun is gonna spin over sometime between christmas and new year and we'll try the gun again now I've got a stronger better tool.
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Last Edit: Dec 24, 2013 13:53:04 GMT by goldnrust
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Clement
Europe
ambitious but rubbish
Posts: 2,095
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Dec 24, 2013 14:01:26 GMT
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Someone give this man a Nobel prize or something!!! Good luck with undoing it Steve, I always hate having to use sheer brute force on something as engineered and delicate as a vintage car.
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Ray Singh
Posted a lot
More German exotica in my garage now
Posts: 1,985
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Dec 24, 2013 16:40:59 GMT
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Those 15" wheels are giving me pleasure. That looks great. Don't be defeated - you have an excellent project there.
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Last Edit: Dec 24, 2013 16:41:20 GMT by Ray Singh
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Perfection
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goldnrust
West Midlands
Minimalist
Posts: 1,880
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Pretty close isn't it! All it needs it to be sliding sideways through a snowy mountain pass with race numbers on the side
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goldnrust
West Midlands
Minimalist
Posts: 1,880
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Dec 28, 2013 18:31:10 GMT
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Finally some progress on this wheel bearing today Fuelled by turkey and christmas spirit I had another go at removing this damn lock ring on boxing day. I now had a tool that was strong enough, and a 10ft bar to slip over my 3/4" breaker bar and I swung off it in both directions, but still not hint of movement. Next up I bought some new gas for my blow torch and got the hub as hot as I could but still no luck. The weak point seemed to be my breaker bar, which looked like it wasn't far from snapping at the head. I borrowed a friends Snap On electric impact wrench, my improved tool took the force much better but still no lock ring movement. I looked at welding the 10ft bar straight to the tool I'd made, eliminating any flex through the breaker bar, but with the hub on the car the angles were all wrong and I'd not be able to make it work. So the hub came off the car, with relative ease I might add! And I got it mounted in the vice on my big heavy work bench, welded the 10ft bar to the tool directly. I was able to apply series torque to the lock ring now, but as soon as I did the work bench just slide around the garage Roll on today and my friend Dan popped by, between us we braced the bench and leant on that 10ft bar as hard as we could. Still nothing We drunk some coffee and tried to think of any other ideas. After reading the recent thread about impact wrenches on here, and the comment about torque multipliers as used by HGV mechanics we decided maybe if we could find an HGV mechanic they'd have a hug impact wrench and would be able to get the lock ring free. Neither Dan nor I know any HGV mechanics though, so first stop the local friendly tyre place to see if they can recommend anywhere. They've got a 3/4" drive impact wrench, much bigger than the Snap-on item we already tired, but still no luck. But they recommend a small garage up the road that do lots of work on classic cars. We go up there, meet a grumpy chap who owns the garage, he immediately states if the tyre place's impact wrench can't shift it he hasn't got a chance! But still he takes the hub from me, tries a 3ft breaker bar, with obviously no luck. He grumbles something about 'sometimes needing to just use brute force' and asks if we've tired using an air chisel on it…. I was a bit worried it would really curse word up the lock ring, but if he'd not got it off I was ready to give up and start trying to cut the lock ring off anyway so it was worth a shot. He fired up the air chisel (using it like you would a hammer and screw drive on a castle nut if you don't have the right tool) and 5 seconds later the lock ring spun round free! It's slightly chewed but in the big scheme of things really not a big deal. Beer money was exchanged and Dan and I headed back to my garage. Note to self: must buy air chisel! With the lock ring removed the bearing itself tapped out with ease. My hand is in that picture just for scale. That lock ring is an m97 thread… overkill! After that it was plain sailing. I put the new bearing in the freezer and warmed the hub up and it dropped right in. Did the lock ring back up, about as tight as I could with normal 2ft bar length. This time I put some copper slip on the threads to help stop it seizing. Out for a test drive and the knocking noise I've been chasing since I bought the car is finally gone. The engine is still a bit rougher under load than I think is right, but the main thing is if I put the car in neutral and coast it rolls smooth, rather than retaining it's knocking rumbling feeling. On a side note, having using my exhaust as a breaker bar extension there end was a little chewed, so I was gonna cut 1cm off the end getting rid of the worst of it. Just as an experiment I cut a slash cut end into it. The exhaust has always seemed louder at some rev ranges than others, like it resonated. I know just enough about exhaust pressure waves to get me into trouble and I figured the slash cut pipe wouldn't create such harsh pressure waves as a straight cut pipe when the exhaust hits the end of the pipe. curse word picture and it will definitely need more refining. But so far, so good. It does seem a slightly smoother 'rounder' sound with a little less harshness With the welding done, the drive train issues now fixed and it still being too cold to think about paint, the engine becomes the focus of my work on the car for a few weeks now hopefully. As I have some history of bottom end work and it's due an oil change anyway, I'm going to drop the sump soon and while it's off clean the oil pick-up and check the big ends and the centre main bearing. I've read that the centre main bearing is a weak point on these engines, though one easily rectified as long as the cranks not been scored. Also I've ordered the air fuel gauge and sensor I was after so that should arrive soon and I'll be able to know what's going on with my carbs. Hopefully through one of these paths I'll find a little more smoothness.
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Last Edit: Dec 28, 2013 18:41:08 GMT by goldnrust
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