jr19
Part of things
Posts: 90
|
|
|
|
I am after some tech advice. I have to change the front break hoses, the calipe end is undoing fine but at the other end they're not undoing. The union is in a fiddly little bracket attached to the chassis. What is the best technique for getting them undone? They're not threaded the opposite way round are they?! I don't want to round off the nuts and have to cut the lines with all that extra work. I suppose a blow torch will help? Thanks for your advice in advance  |
| |
Last Edit: Oct 17, 2012 7:14:22 GMT by jr19
|
|
bl1300
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,678
|
|
|
|
|
Sounds obvious but you are using two spanners right? One on each side of the union
|
| |
Current fleet.
1967 DAF 44
1974 VW Beetle 1303s
1975 Triumph Spitfire MkIV
1988 VW LT45 Beavertail
1998 Volvo V70 2.5
1959 Fordson Dexta
|
|
ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,195
Club RR Member Number: 170
|
Brake hose unionChasR
@chasr
Club Retro Rides Member 170
|
Oct 17, 2012 10:30:17 GMT
|
IMO this is where penetrating fluid and brake hose specific spanners (they cover 5 and a bit sides of the nut you are trying to undo, far more than an open ended spanner will, and arguably better than a generic bi-hex spanner  will pay dividends. It has done for me in the past But yes, heat should work too. One thing to be aware of however is that the union on the solid pipe end may have seized onto the pipe itself, so you may end up twisting or even breaking the brake pipe if it is undone without care. |
| |
|
|
jr19
Part of things
Posts: 90
|
|
Oct 17, 2012 21:37:28 GMT
|
Sounds obvious but you are using two spanners right? One on each side of the union i'll use mole grips as theres no provision for spanners on the flexi hose |
| |
|
|
jr19
Part of things
Posts: 90
|
|
Oct 17, 2012 21:39:14 GMT
|
IMO this is where penetrating fluid and brake hose specific spanners (they cover 5 and a bit sides of the nut you are trying to undo, far more than an open ended spanner will, and arguably better than a generic bi-hex spanner will pay dividends. It has done for me in the past But yes, heat should work too. One thing to be aware of however is that the union on the solid pipe end may have seized onto the pipe itself, so you may end up twisting or even breaking the brake pipe if it is undone without care. Thanks! I have a flare nut spanner and i'll try not to twist the pipe |
| |
|
|
taurus
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,084
|
|
Oct 17, 2012 21:59:58 GMT
|
|
PlusGas is your friend here. I find that using PlusGas and then giving a spray with WD40 (or similar) works well. The WD40 doesn't free it off, what it does is to help drive the PlusGas into the threads. The ferrel on the end of the hose ought to have a section to apply a flare spanner to - unless someone has previously rounded them off.
|
| |
|
|
jr19
Part of things
Posts: 90
|
|
|
|
|
thanks taurus, one side i've replace no problems but the other side the nut is rounded off. So i am going to try and sand it down to get a 10mm spanner on
The hose popped out with the heat of the torch & i can't think of anything non flammable to plug it with when i reheat it, using blue tac atm!
|
| |
Last Edit: Oct 22, 2012 9:21:02 GMT by jr19
|
|
jr19
Part of things
Posts: 90
|
|
Oct 22, 2012 14:27:01 GMT
|
had to cut the line and replace it, learned a new skill today - flaring pipework  |
| |
|
|
will pay dividends. It has done for me in the past
