st182
Part of things
'yota man
Posts: 585
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Howdy ho folks Happy new year and all that malarkey Good old Santa brought me the revised des hammill SU Carbs book, and i've been rivited since page 1, I actually seem to understand bits of it! ;D So I've had an idea. My everyday car is a Mk1 micra, and just for kicks, I fancy having a go at stapling a couple of small (a single larger one would be easier but wheres the fun in that?) ones to the suck side of the mighty 1000cc lump under the bonnet. You may well ask why, but I just fancy the idea for a play really- it runs OK with the stock hitachi carb in place (just stutters a bit when cold) and returns 45-50 mpg, but as it rarely does more than a 14 mile trip when the missus borrows it for work it shouldnt cost that much more if it ends up a lot less economical! Size And Type Selection:After reading the book, I've decided that a pair of 1 1/4" would be the best size, as it seems to suggest that twin inch and a halves would be far more than needed- would you agree? The engine does rev to 6000 rpm standard, but I assume that the performance minis which had twin SU's would rev to that if not more. That means my choice is limited to either H2's or HS2's I believe- so do the later HS2's have any advantages over the H2's? Can I do it:I'm what can be best described as an "enthusiastic amateur" and by no means a mechanic, but being a fitter by trade I probarly have the physical skills to profile needles and rebuild the carbs. The main question here is, can they be tuned "by ear?" What i'm worried about is things like, without diagnostic equipment / co readers etc, will an inexperienced amateur like myself be able to tune a mixture? IE diagnose a rich / weak mixture through the rev range. My only previous experience of carbs was rebuilding the autolite with spare parts for my mk1 escort about 10 years back. Any ideas / thoughts much appreciated, feel free to flag up things which I may not have thought of, and if you have any unused SU carbs / parts / needles / rebuild kits / linkages / anything really to do with SU's lying around which you'd be willing to sell, I may be interested
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Dan '93 JZA80 '79 TA40 '99 SCP10
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slater
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,390
Club RR Member Number: 78
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You would need to take it to a half decent rolling road to have them set up properly relly.
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:)I don't have any experience of fitting SU carbs to cars that don't usually have them TBH. However I've worked on plenty of cars with them already fitted and my opinion is that SU carbs are one of the best sort available..nice and simple and give good performance as long as the piston damper is kept oiled and free to move. I've found they can tend to run a little rich and be difficult to get through MOT emmisions. Saying that the cars I've worked on with them fitted have been old BL cars that have engines that are frankly less efficient than a Micra engine. I say go for it if it'something you're enthusiastic about. The first major hurdle will be obtaining or making a suitable inlet manifold.
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tigran
Club Retro Rides Member
In rust we trust. Amen.
Posts: 6,444
Club RR Member Number: 142
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The one advantage I love about SU's is how damn simple they are to rebuild, compare to a weber.
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1964 Rover P5 i6 1987 BMW 525e - The Rusty Streak 1992 Micra K10 2001 BMW E46 316i 2002 BMW E46 330Ci 2013 BMW F31 320d 2018 BMW G31 530d
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They are nice and simple. Its a looooong time since I messed with any, but is there not a third version, the HIF2 which is even more updated and probably best for your application. Or was the HIF series only available in larger sizes? I presume that your Micra has a 4 port head on the inlet side, in which case twins may be a good idea. I know A series motors tend to prefer one larger carb but they have shared inlet tract which may be why that is. When I do recall is that keeping the blighters ballanced is fun. You can buy a ballancer from Frost though cheap enough. A single HS3 / HIF3 would be my choice. It should be possible to bodge, I mean adapt your stock manifold to take one and then its just amatter of tuning it and you have the book, so... SU conversions were popular back in the day. I've seen SU kits for Fords (flattie 4s, kents and x-flows) Vauxhall OHV engines and some other stuff, I think I saw a Renault Dauphine with twin SUs once. When Webers became predominant in the 1970s these kits would have been less popular and died out. Blydenstien used to like them, I think he even did slant 4s with them on.
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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Seth
South East
MorrisOxford TriumphMirald HillmanMinx BorgwardIsabellaCombi
Posts: 15,542
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SU carbs are nice and simple but I've never had any experience of needing to get the car they're fitted to through an emissions test. However it'd be simple to run them lean for the test H2's were the first 1 1/4" carbs and it's very unlikely you'll come across any. You're most likely to find HS2's which were the common fitment to all the twin carb minis, midgets, 1300 Spitfires etc though the sixties and they are an improvement over the early type but I can't remember why just at the moment. HIF's were not made smaller than 1 1/2. You should buy a pair that have come off the same car so they will have worn in the same way and be fitted with the same jets, springs, needles etc and you at least have a common starting point. The important thing to look for is sideways play in the throttle spindle as it runs directly in the carb body - can be fixed by drilling out and bushing. A pair should also include the necessary linkages between the two of them that sinngles obviouisly won't. It should be simple task of making different length rods to alter the distance between the carbs as the levers etc usually clamp on. Balancing a pair of carbs is a doddle with one of the simple flow meter devices you can get (eg by Gunsons) but for best performance/economy you'd really need some rolling road time to sort needles out for such an odd application. Hope some of that helps
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Last Edit: Jan 4, 2007 8:50:15 GMT by Seth
Follow your dreams or you might as well be a vegetable.
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i suggest a single 1.75 and a gunsons colour tune!
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i have a good set of hs4s and hs6s if interested, one pair off a 1850 dolly and one pair off a sprint pm for details mate
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paul4be
Part of things
'86 Capri Laser, Frontera 4x4
Posts: 395
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If you are going for a single, something like an HIF44 would be your best bet (as per MG Metro etc), although HIF38's are cheaper. If going twins on a more modern engine, I recon HS2's would be a bit small and something like HS4's would breath better when set up correctly. Either way, setup will be the key. If you do go for it, make sure that you use stub stacks or ram pipes with the carbs. The difference in flow with and without can be massive.
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You could use some Hitachi built SU's to keep it in the Nissan family. I think the smallest are 38mm as used on SSS models here. I have some for a Datsun A series (1171cc) and I think they are still 38mm ones. They use the same mounting as original SU's but area bit better made.
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1962 Datsun Bluebird Estate - 1971 Datsun 510 SSS - 1976 Datsun 710 SSS - 1981 Dodge van - 1985 Nissan Cherry Europe GTi - 1988 Nissan Prairie - 1990 Hyundai Pony Pickup - 1992 Mazda MX5
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Minis sometimes have problems getting through the emissions test but I think the problem is down to the A-series being an ancient design which has very poor emissions at idle (though they are fine when the revs pick up). The usual trick is to lean them off a bit for the MoT, and richen them up once you've passed. On tuned Minis a single HIF44 seems to be the preferred carb these days rather than smaller twins. What about bike carbs as an alternative?
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Jaguar S-Type 3.0 SE
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st182
Part of things
'yota man
Posts: 585
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Wow! some great replies there, thanks very much for the info ;D Slater> Yep, I realise to get the absolute best out of them there is no alternative to a RR, but as these are simpler than webers and the like, I fancied having a go myself. As far as fannymoulding goes, it may be easier than first thought- the standard micra manifold is a 1-2-4 type, so I'm hoping that the manifold can be cut at the "2 into 4" section and a couple of SU flanges tig welded on, if the spacing is within the limits of the linkage of course. Things never turn out that simple though do they! I notice an opinion of "micra engines more efficient than equivalent BL engines" and "bigger carbs would be better suited as you'd expect the micra has a bigger flow rate." Indeed the micra has a 4 port head, and revs to 6K rpm (around peak power- only 50 BHP tho). The reason I chose initially twin 1 1/4" was because of a quote from the book: But then the book goes on to nearly contradict itself with another table: After the first quote I thought definitely a pair of 1 1/4"s because the most modification this head will ever get is a home port, match port and a 421 exhaust. But after the comments on here and that table, The 1 1/2" pair sounds like a better option, and if I do decide to go for those then I also have the choice of the later HIF6, which is the smallest version of the HIF avaliable. Of course if I ever swap the motor to a "big block" 1200cc, then the 1 1/2"ers do sound more tempting- hmm. So what do you think folks? Everyone> Great info folks many thanks As for the linkages cheers for the info seth- if they're adaptable then thats one less thing to worry about. I do plan to fit ram pipes or velocity stacks, but i'll cross that bridge if I ever get there! as with emissions worries hitachi ones do sound nice, keeping the J theme, but part of the reason I want SU's is because of their parts avaliability, and all the knowledge that folks already have with them. good idea though! And as for bike carbs, I do have a set of mikuni's (or are they keihins? can't remember) off a CBR 600 at home, But as more information and again parts are avaliable for the su's, i'd like to try that route really.
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Dan '93 JZA80 '79 TA40 '99 SCP10
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to quote which book?
Dave Vizards excellent A series book recommends a single SU...
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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paul4be
Part of things
'86 Capri Laser, Frontera 4x4
Posts: 395
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HIF 38's are newer than HIF6's. They are as fitted to some Metros (None MG) and should be easy to find. More likely to find a pair of HS4's already on a manifold, complete with linkages etc which you could then modify more easily. Something like this: cgi.ebay.co.uk/TWIN-1-1-2-SU-CARBS-ON-DOLOMITE-SPRINT-MANIFOLD_W0QQitemZ320066538650Not sure, but I may even have a pair of these complete with ITG filters if you want me to look in the shed. Please note, this isn't why I suggested 1.5" rather than 1.25" carbs!!!! LOL As per the above, the linkage arms are simply clamped onto straight metal rod spindles, which can really easily be adatped for different carb spacings.
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Last Edit: Jan 5, 2007 11:42:50 GMT by paul4be
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As I recall, SU carbs are less sensitive to "over carbing" than traditional down draught styles are so....
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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...hitachi ones do sound nice, keeping the J theme, but part of the reason I want SU's is because of their parts avaliability, and all the knowledge that folks already have with them. good idea though! Ah but that's the reason for using hitachi carbs! They don't wear out like British SU's so you don't need parts! The only bit that ever needs replacing on them is the floats as they are brass on the older ones. In every other respect they function the same as SU's (they are basically SU's made under licence) Whatever SU's you go for you will have to modify the needles yourself I'd think to suit the Micra engine. I'd think that twin 1.5" SU's would be a bit much on a stock Micra engine.
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1962 Datsun Bluebird Estate - 1971 Datsun 510 SSS - 1976 Datsun 710 SSS - 1981 Dodge van - 1985 Nissan Cherry Europe GTi - 1988 Nissan Prairie - 1990 Hyundai Pony Pickup - 1992 Mazda MX5
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st182
Part of things
'yota man
Posts: 585
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More great info! Cheers fellas Alistairk> The book is the new revised des hammil SU tuning guidey thing me bob. Paul> The only way i'd go for an HIF6 or 38 would be if I went for a single, which may well be the easiest, but i've never owned a car with twin carbs! ratdat> I see your point, are you on commission but I couldnt be sure exactly how they work, and if a seal or something goes than i'd bet it would take nearly ten times as long as finding an Su part. I have read that some cars, rovers were mentioned I thing, were fitted with massive SU's just to make the spec list of the car look good, when in reality there were "stoppers" fitted to the pistons to stop them from over carbing. I suppose that would be an option, but i'd rather try and avoid it. Paul and Russell> You both have PM regarding your SU stashes ;D Let me know if you recieve them as i'm a bit sketchy with PM's on here at the mo- EG when I clicked on "send PM to russell" it came up with a different username
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Dan '93 JZA80 '79 TA40 '99 SCP10
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Paul and Russell> You both have PM regarding your SU stashes ;D Let me know if you recieve them as i'm a bit sketchy with PM's on here at the mo- EG when I clicked on "send PM to russell" it came up with a different username you have pm
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st182
Part of things
'yota man
Posts: 585
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I now have "on order" a pair of HS4's with linkage and fannymould, so i'll use those as a starting point Thanks russell ;D I'f I'm drastically overcarbing then I presume the manifold and linkage can be easily fettled for a pair of HS2's. Don't expect too much progress though- i'll probarly start tinkering in spring, need to finish off boarding my loft, so the house curse word (and rarely used car curse word) can go up there and clear the garage! Lots of stuff to do, but can't wait to play Thanks muchly for the help so far folks appreciated
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Dan '93 JZA80 '79 TA40 '99 SCP10
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Seth
South East
MorrisOxford TriumphMirald HillmanMinx BorgwardIsabellaCombi
Posts: 15,542
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HS4's use a different stud pattern to the HS2's but you could make some adaptors up to suit I should think. The HS4's have mounting holes on diagonal opposites of a square (if that makes sense) and HS2's are one above the other. HS4 from manifold side HS2 from manifold side Another thing you will need to consider is that the float chambers need to be horizontal to the ground but the carb body can be angled - there are various "factory" set ups using stepped collars where the float chamber mounts to the carb body.
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Follow your dreams or you might as well be a vegetable.
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