1972 Granada Mk1 coupe build - Still going... 14-10-2024

Thanks for that!

I have personal experience though, of one of these engines running and being "driveable" to the extent of moving under it's own power with a slipped/broken chain on one bank. My first engine upon disassembly turned out to have a broken chain. Yet it had run, badly (worse than the current one) and been driven in and out of the shop like that.

But my current line of thinking is that the "new" single color engine/box loom has a problem as this was on two engines that both shared the same rough running and lack of warming up on the same bank of the engine.

At least the suggestions on here mean I can get to work. I have some things I can check from fuel and compression to injector signals.

I know! And that is still much appreciated.

My comment in that other thread was by no means a complaint on interest in my own thread (making the assumption that that is why you mention it). It was just my lesson learned. I have had to learn that other people's interest does not necesarily equal many replies. And I'm (now) fine with that. I have also learned that when people feel they really can add something, they usually do. And when I request help implicitly or explicitly I usually am not disappointed.

Thanks for that kind reply Nigel. I just do what I do I guess...

I've owned the car for 18 years now (has it really been zo long??) and I've never given up on her yet, so I will persevere. I'm generally not a quitter anyway...

The story will continue.

Hi Alex.
I have been watching your loom rebuild, what an amazing job you did there. The attention to detail, sourcing all types of connectors and pins, making Excel spreadsheet etc. I am in awe!
I am struggeling to find time to do the most necessary work on my daily, in additiont to family life. How you find the time is beyond me. Not to mention the mojo. I had great plans for this fall, but didn't even get off the starting block.
Sorry to read that you have issues after doing such t thorough job of identifying all of the wires and sensors.
If I understand it correctly, the engine is running on the cylinders, all on one side. Checking if it is fuel or spark related would be my first port of call. If it is fuel related, I would try to assess if it is the injectors, fuelpipe or loom that is causing the problem. Money is on the loom.
If it is spark related, I would check plugs, plug leads and of course the coil. Is it possible to switch over the coil side to see if the other side fires up?
I really don't know these engines and I assume you already have a plan for going forward.
Best of luck. I will be watching in anticipation.

Also known (at least on this side of the pond) as a "noid light" to aid searching...

I read my diagrams again, and generally, the V6 is wired such that the black 12V feed to the injectors, is one wire from the loom that splits into the 6 injectors "in the valley" between the cylinders. The brown wires that the ECU grounds to trigger the injectors are grouped 3 and 3.

If 3 injectors are not firing, I would thus first suspect that the brown wires to a set of injectors are not connected. Of course, using a LED to check an injectors is quiet easy but you might also want to check just for 12V with key on to isolate the issue a bit.

Gustaf

This is the 24v ignition circuit.



This seems to confirm what has been said regarding cylinders being paired as far as ignition is concerned.

But also, if the ignition is obviously working on one bank, should it than also not be working on the other? This should be relatively easily confirmed.

At least this confirms I have everything exactly in order on my bit of new loom. The only thing I have trouble reading is splice S34. This is obvioulsy traced to the ignition switch. But, ALL wiring to the engine and gearbox go through C110 and C113, these are the main connectors. So that wire should be in either C110 or 113, but I cannot determine that from the view.

But C110 only has a ground (as far as I know) on pin 27 and a 12v feed on pins 28 and 38. All other wires either go to a sensor, injector or the ecu. C113 has a ground on pin 4 and 12v feeds on pins 5, 16 and 26.

This is the injector circuit.



Again this confirms I have the right wires going to the right pins on my bit of loom. And again there's a splice S31 where I get lost.

Obviously I have the original engine/box loom still so I will check that to see how and where the injectors get spliced to one wire. But I think this means that they will probably all work. What I suspect is that two injectors have gotten mixed up when this bit of loom was made. Causing an injector to fire when there is no spark in that cylinder. I can check my own work obviously, but I think I'll need to trace the wires from C110 to the injectors as well which will necessitate the removal of the intake again.

But first I think I'll do the compression check to be sure of compression, check for spark to be sure there is one for each cylinder (pair), see if I can get anywhere with the led suggestion I have received from different people. And go from there. But I think I won't get away with a better check of the injector [ortion of the installed loom.

The noise capacitor (the one that is connected to S34) has been just next to the coil in all the EDIS looms I have worked with. But yes, it is "impossible" to have spark on only one bank or only 3 cylinders on an EDIS6.

The injector wiring is different from the BOA and others, suggesting Ford may have left the batch firing system. If the wires are indeed as the diagram, that means anything from 1 to 6 injector wires may fail (unless they are grouped 3 and 3 to 2 injector drivers in the ECU itself). So yeah, checking compression and the actual signals at each injector is necessary I would say.

Gustaf

Alex,

Do the led test on the injectors first - it's quick and easy and will tell you a great deal.