1972 Granada Mk1 coupe build - Still going... 14-10-2024

Alex, I think that I too have not fully understood what you've added that is 'new', or that which is now broken...

On the Lanbo LB-405 C/L unit you've shown: Is there a 'dip' switch (or setting procedure on the fob) that allows changing the pulse timer? I saw it mentioned somewhere that the unit can be set to allow a short spike (electric actuators), or a longer spike (pneumatic). I did wonder 'if' yours had this feature could that have been a reason why you observed a 'weak' outcome when you connected the mirrors into the circuit - Would the long spike allow the mirrors enough time to fully extend/retract??

I had some random ideas on fitting an override switch but nothing that I wish to air in case of public humiliation Plus, I am still unsure why the switch is required as you can lock the doors with the fob whilst in or out of the car, or have I misunderstood?.

One more random thought with that device: Could you feed the mirror circuit with any of the unused Window/Boot/Horn outputs? I think I saw that the window closure operates a negative output in the region of 14 seconds (You may want to test this theory though!). That could possibly be useful to drive the mirror closure circuit (if you are ever walking away from the car and had forgot to use the inside folding button), I worry less about auto-opening - only because I cannot fathom its usefulness when you have a button to push

Humour me whilst I guess your button pin arangement I 'think' 12v goes to the top right; illumination feed to top left. Bottom left/right goes to motors and middle two are both ground...
...my other goto idea would be to take a BFH (gently) to one of the grubbiest switches you have and look inside!

How about manual Mirrors and drive it? ;-)
Thom

sweetpea and spot, you're probably right. It can get confusing... But I guess I did a little of what both of you said and moved on...or prepped for a revisit.

So as a little update:

The mirrors are in and working fine. But using the OLD CL controller I found it needed the door lock motor to function properly. I found I could get it to work as I liked by adding a switch. Only instead of a single push button momentary switch, I had to resort to a toggle switch. So I used a window up/down switch. It gets a common earth and then the signal wires for open and close to each side of the switch. And that works fine and I found that perfectly acceptable as it almost mimics the behavior of the daily transit.
The one remaining thing I couldn't figure out just yet is getting the light in the switch working. I started taking one spare apart, to measure through, but I now also have a diagram of the switch so hope I can still get that fixed as well. To anticipate but not let it slow me down I wired in two extra points to take the light signal from so when I switch on the car lights the switches can in the future join in the fun.

Well to clarify somewhat: I had bought two new CL modules. One old style working from the lock(motors) on turning the key. The other with a remote. They should have been able to work together. But when hooking them up in the only way that worked the old style unit’s push button feature lost “force” and didn’t operate the system well enough. At the same time the remote unit also fed the motors so it got the same instructions from two controllers. I had the systems separated again and just tested the old style CL unit, but it gave up the ghost pretty quickly.

So with that I resorted to suing the remote one. But that did not have a switch input, which I would have liked. And I agree here with you gents, the ideal situation you’d trigger the processor not the relays but I felt if I could do at least that, it would warrant adding the button for it and keeping a symmetry in the controls. But I measured it all and just couldn’t make sense of the amount of 12v’s I was seeing but from separate inputs. As I didn’t want to ruin this controller I didn’t dare test further, even though the other one did during its normal operating/wired up state.

So I wired in the remote unit and had to accept I could now lock and unlock my car from a bit of a distance, I could see the state of locking/unlocking from the indicators and will even be able to add a feed for a trunk release motor. The only thing missing was this much desired manual control, but as the unit doesn’t care if the car is running or not you can always lock the car from the remote. I left preparation for if one of my followers did manage to find a solution. So there’s a 12v source, 12v light source (hence the two referred to before) and an earth available if need be. I also kept that module nice and easily accessibly tucked away.

Next up was anything center console related. So the wiring for switches, for lighters/12v accessory feeds and the rear seat charging points. I had previously run a wire back there but never finished as I never made the cubbies to fill the space. So this time around I brought the wires back to both sides of the seat base, added earths to complete the circuits etc. I even ran a wire for lighting these items as well. No half work here lol.

With that all done, next up was the audio and phone kit installation. I ran all wiring for that in the original way with the original components. I did obviously update the way it was incorporated into the car. One channel on the speakers would frequently cut out before s I had to check the signal wires which were conveniently hidden behind the side bolsters of the rear seat back before going into that deep boot. I found a bit of damage insulation that must have been present from the mustang that this set was in before as there was nothing in the area that the wires could have chafed/rubbed upon. I fixed that bit too. Now I’ll see if I can or can’t live with the Bluetooth sound quality. I found it a bit bland before, a bit flat. In case I think this again, I’ll find a unit that has a good reputation on sound quality and uses cinch outputs or a phone jack.

Before I also had the problem that the phone kit was susceptible to interference from the running car/alternator. I hope taking care of quality earthing has solved this, if not I’ll add another earth as it proved to be the solution in the old setup. But really there shouldn’t be an issue.

I didn’t get to test the audio yet as I wanted to move on working toward building the interior back up. So I chose to fit the side trims that cover the inner sill to carpet join and the (originally one small) wiring to the back. Now there are so many wires under them that fitting them is a challenge. This meant the rear seat base could be put back in place and bolted up. Next I could position the center console again. I would still like to find another and have it wrapped in vinyl/leather better than my first attempt as the glue didn’t stick well enough and creases formed, but also because with my current eye for detail I see to much wrong with it lol. Anyway, I got that in place as well. Managed to finally for the first time in 18 years fit the armrest to it in a decent way. I was frustrated to know I took a little lock tab plate for it from another spare but too far gone to rescue console but obviously couldn’t find it to fit it. Next I had wired in and placed an original ford lighted cigarette lighter, but it didn’t light when the lights were turned on. The multimeter confirmed it was the bulb so another one to swap for an led solution.

With the console and sill plates in, the seats could be bolted back as well. So they were and things were starting to look better.
I neatened and wrapped all wiring in the dash so it should be safe from chafing etc. felt good to finally be able to do that as all wires were run. I had to overcome a small challenge as I had earlier just put the earth wires through a hole without protection, as my step drill was missing. A 5 euro Lidl set to the rescue I could now do that properly and fit a bung for the wires to go through. Thankfully in hindsight I opted for a big bung. As I found later while doing the audio wiring I had a few big ones to accommodate and they didn’t fit the 12v hole anymore so had to reside to putting them through with those earths. It was tricky but I found myself pretty clever in the way I managed to get it all in.

Anyway, with all systems now present, accounted for and working, the only thing left was the dash. This needs four led’s remade and this time with a connector between them and the dash for ease of future removal. And don’t forget the now additional lighter light led conversion.

Unfortunately play time was definitely over by then… all of the above took me three full afternoons of work. It just always doesn’t seem to amount to much until you get underway. There’s always another little side project (like the armrest on the console or the lighter) that eats time. But I enjoyed getting closer. Now all I need to finish is those led’s and I can put the dash fascia, dash binnacle and binnacle cover back on. I verified that all this can be done with all of the other stuff in the car. So if I ever need to access the ecu again I should be able to take out just the dash.

I’m not yet perfectly happy with how the wiring is coming into the car. The well wrapped loom is too stiff to conform to the dash shape. And I would really like to make a lower cover, these are something my car never had but should be present between lower dash metal plate and the firewall. This would also remove an eyesore as the loom would then be invisible again.

Being this far I expect to finish and test the car later this week. I already fear a coolant leak in the v from either the under head hose or the in valley coolant pipe o-ring as when jacked up I had a stream of coolant from a corner of the valley which can't really be explained away any other way. But I’ll see first how bad it is. Worst case I’ll have to remove the intake once more but I’m proficient at that by now. Oh and I need to drive it long enough to see if the hego/lambda error comes back and more so on which side of the engine according to the ecu. This should tell me if I have a sensor or a wiring problem there.

I do now also feel like I should use 3d printing to make the cubbies for the rear seat base filler and for the wheel hub adapters so I can fit a hub cover and finally I’d like to design a cover for the new fuse boxes. But I only know one UK RR forum member (also with a lovely Ford) that may be able to help with this so if this all is viable we’ll have to see. I’ll pen my design ideas and see what comes of it all.

Finally I am so sick of this engine leaking oil like a sieve that I’ll also try and build a “new” refreshed bob with new timing chains, guides, tensioners, gaskets and all it needs. But this might be anywhere from 2 to 4k in cost so is not an easy thing to do. Also do I then go LPG injection or stay petrol. Another cost and also if done by myself a chellenge to get certified. Petrol is going to go through the roof as a deterrent to keep driving fossil fuel cars in the next years but LPG is not so widely available anymore…

Well, is that an update or what?

Pictures to follow.

James, don't appologize for being a busy man! No need in my book. You've shown your willingness to help plenty en continue to do so. I fully understand!

Hey James,

I don't think I fully follow. But for now it's ok as it all is.

Yes, I had two controllers fitted to one set of motors. The thinking was, as claimed by the suppliers, your car either had CL already or was fitted with an aftermarket system. Hence controller one to enable the CL system of the car. This was the one with 5 wires and a switch option, and that was triggered by the key. With this in place the second controller was supposed to just add the remote capability. I do have two 5 wire motors, but although the old CL unit used all 5 wires, the new CL remote unit only uses two of the five. And the old CL unit now ended up controlling the mirrors.

Now, the second unit however incorporated mostly the same system as the aftermarket CL unit I had fitted. So indeed both controllers triggered when the remote was added. But this meant that with just the motors in place, the second controller could by itself work these with a 2 wire system. So that is how I ended up fitting it. I used one CL controller for the mirrors and the second with remote for the door motors.

Had I not wanted the remote more than the in cabin manual switch, I'd have used the 5 wire controller for the locks as well and all would be like you said, the switch would have worked.

Your guess as to why the motor worked poorly on the switch when both units were linked may be right, I don't really know. My multimeter was too slow to show the thrue voltage when triggered as it was only a short trigger.

Currently the motors are using 2 wires to work and the other three are just not connected.

I'd have liked to be able to add a manual switch but after all the effort I'm currently fine with not having it.

Oh I see. So the central locking controller has no way to connect to the other 3 wires of the 5 wire controller? And currently the key in the door only opens the one door?
That might be really handy. Or it might not...

Could you post a link to the manual for the central locking module you have fitted? Or photograph it and message it to me. Or something.

James

Jep, the Cl with remote needs only two of the five wires to operate the motors and yes, manual unlocking with the key only unlocks one door. I don't see that so much as a problem as 90% of the time I'm in the car alone. And obviously having a remote negates the use of the key 99.9% of the time.

I could scan and send you the details of both kits, but I think for now you can spend your valuable time in much better ways. I'm going to see how I feel about the current functionality first. I think I've come pretty much to terms with it. I made it all so I can revisit at a later date if I want to.

Thanks for all your thoughts and guidance etc. Really!

Oh fark me! If that ^^^ is right then I think we can make the mirrors work too.

Tell me if that's right!

First off a belated photodump...

Cleaning my oil mess and replacing the felt.




Car outside for working on the last bits.


Putting in protection for the earth wires now I had a new step drillbit. Turned out I needed the room in the bung for some more power wires later as the power side hole was packed!


Under rear seat wiring for the power outlets/phone charges to be incorporated in the cubbies to fill the sides.


Center console back in place and first of the inner sill to carpet covers back in place.


Dash wiring complete and all tied down.




Second sill cover in (hiding loads of audio wires between head unit and amps)


Overview with the interior taking shape


Audio wiring


Plugs for easy disconnect of LED's associated with the BOB systems (CC, OD, OP, PATS)






Seats and dash back in


Binnacle back in and working 100% again, fasia on top, radio installed for testing








That brings us mostly up to date.