1972 Granada Mk1 coupe build - Still going... 14-10-2024

Thanks for that. When doing the old fasioned pedal bleeding I also always keep the end of the hose emerged.

The Mk1 I have, does not have a proportioning valve. The rear cilinders move and there's no fluid leaking past their seals. I inspected them.

Likewise, the Mk1 granada does not have an adjustable pushrod or pedal. The pedal simply hangs from a shaft, and has a set of holes in it to fit the pin to connect the pushrod. The pushrod is just a fixed bar with a fork at the end that connects to the brake pedal. The pushrod came into the car at the exact point where the holes in the pedal were. So I'm doubtful of an issue there. I do admit that I will have to check the manual pedal versus the automatic pedal that is in now. I'm sure I did that extensively when converting so in my mind there's very little doubt that the pedals are different. I believe they had all the right holes in exactly the same place and also the same type of curvature. But when doubt sets in there's only one thing for it: double checking!

So that is one of two things I'll try:
- adding the scorpio one way valve
- checking the pedal

The only other thing I'm doubting is if the mc is bled well enough. I let gravity do the work...

have you bled the brakes after fitting the MC? Because if there was any air still in the MC it would've come out with bleeding the rest of the system after fitting it. I heard about your troubles from the other barn members, really annoying this

Let me know what you are going to be there and if I can I shall come over for a while and have a look, got some jobs to do saturday morning, but should be free all afternoon at the moment. Not saying I'm an expert, but a fresh pair of eyes may spot something overlooked. Have you any pipe clamps you can use to block block off different wheels in turn? this type ideally

Thanks Gustav,

Pictures are all in my thread somewhere. Nothing was changed since, except the MC.

All parts new: hard lines, flex lines, wheel cylinders, calipers, brake pads and even the brake shoes (these are adjusted out as far as I could get them still being able to put the drum on).

No I don't have either a proportioning valve or a valve block with warning system. Just two lines and two three way junctions (all clean before fitting up).

I don't know the Granada brake system but this is where I'd start.

Clamp off both front brake flexis and the rear one/two. Try the brake pedal again,engine on/off, it it's fixed you at least know it's a MC/servo problem.

If it's still got excess travel release one flexi at a time and test each time.

I'm assuming the rear drums don't have automatic adjusters? I normally adjust manual ones with the drums on until there's a slight drag, adjusting so you can get the drum on and off easily may be too slack.

Oh and definitely fit the return spring to the pedal.

Thanks for that. I understand your input but have one question as I rea it before in trying to solve this problem. You also say: clamp off the flex lines as this will prove mc or calliper/wheel cylinder. I don't follow. If air is in the hardlines still, the mc can still be fine.

In theory yes but the amount of air in the hardlines is going to be very small given all the bleeding you've done, certainly not enough to cause your problems.

One to try - there's no real logic "why" it works, but somehow does.

After bleeding brakes as much as you can, pump the pedal a few times and then chock it down in the pressed position - a suitably sized piece of wood between the seat and pedal is ideal.

Leave overnight.

See how it is the next day after a pump or two.

Looks like at least part of saturday will be used to go through the brakes again... All tips are taken into account when we do so...

Thanks for the support.