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My thought process: Black leather inside, but badly worn driver's seat - no wonder, as the odometer shows 535.000km (332k miles). I know these things are capable of starship mileage, but surely it'd be better to start with a lower-mileage example for a conversion... And a invoice from 2002 of 10.000€ for a brand new engine. ;D ...Oh, I see. ;D Sounds like a good buy to me - I look forward to the conversion.
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Onne: the Coupé will receive the TDT engine - but the TDT is too far gone... Though it's remaining parts will give longer life to two other Ts. It's abit of a shame realy, since it has so much recorded history and I'm only the third owner. But... It's too much of a money pit. Pictures don't show how worn out everything is. jrevillug: mine was the same when I read the offer ;D It also got a brand new differential, as I just found out. Awesome! As a 2.65:1 is unique to the turbos, and with ASD it's even rarer. Only the gearbox is the original, but given it's age it works superb. Only 3rd to 4th is a bit harsh at times - I'll see what I can do about it. 1-2-3 - smooth as silk.
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First bit of action: a set of new fuel filters... Then I tried to find the pre-filter. Umm. I couldn't see, but feel it. The damn auxilliary heater sits right on top of the pre-filter and the water hoses block everything... Solution? Jack the car up. Remove the bottom cladding and try to access if from underneath When I removed the cladding, I found the remains of the radiator support... ;D It's still held firmly by two big brackets, nothing to worry (much). Aaaand: I found the pre-filter. It looks accesible in the picture; but I couldn't get two hands in there to hold it whilst removing the hose clamps... I gave up after an hour Anyway; the new main filter made big difference, the engine starts easyer and feels more powerfull. More to come once I somehow gain access to the pre-filter. Next and last bit of action was the removal of the tow bar. Then it started to pour and I skipped part three, the removal of the aux heater. Cheers, Jan
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Feb 18, 2013 13:38:07 GMT
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Much to my dissappointment, I was not able to do any work at all for the last almost two weeks - and I'm still struggling with the aftermath of a influenza infection... So - this is all that happened... The CE got covered in snow, snow melted and it got covered with snow again... Though I was able to acquire a genuine tow bar with removable tow ball. 'Unfortunately' the wiring loom is for a 13 pin socket - and runs through the whole car to the fuse box in the engine bay... Not looking forward to that... But I need a tow bar, since I need to transport the Turbodiesel engine somehow. And the CE gains a LOT of use with a tow bar. And before someone asks: no, the tow bar from the 300TDT doesn't fit, the Limo/Coupé have a different tow bar and some extra braces Cheers, Jan
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Feb 20, 2013 13:39:38 GMT
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Feeling a lot better now, I thought it was time to wash of all the salt. She's been standing for over a week now - but still started on the first turn Took her to the car wash, gave her a quick wash & wax. Looks good? Let's take a closer look at winter's toll. Damage assesment - and it didn't turn out to my delight, unfortunately Especially the driver's door is bugging me as I could've probably preventet a lot by greasing it - but I forgott to do so. Hmmpf: On the rear - I knew an old repair was showing up here - but now the filler finaly cracked: Also the driver's wheel arch started to show rust - this wasn't evident before winter: But, at least; the wheel arch on the passenger's side didn't rust further, I drenched it in Owatrol & petrol jelly: With this in mind and the sun starting to come out, I set for a extended drive through the Black Forrest: Back home I filled a syringe with Owatrol and injected it into the rust bubbles - hoping it'll stop the rust spreading for now: That's it for today, and now you know what a rust-bucket this car actually is. Looks always so tidy on the pictures ;D Spring is approaching in smal steps - not long untill I can crack on with installing the tow-bar and rip out the TDT's drive train Cheers, Jan
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Mar 16, 2013 23:16:25 GMT
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Remember this from page 1? Next: wires... Blargh!! I hate wires... The car has rear speakers (had to be ordered!) and a front/rear fader. Thats 6 double-wires for speakers, one is the input to the fader, 4 are the output. I'm still scrathing my head - looks like I haveto do a little google to find out about colours an stuff, before I fry something ;D But, I can listen to the radio, I got the front speakers working at least. And the electric antenna works, but the telescope sticks and only comes out half. Probably have to replace it... Well - I dug into it, finally. I have a hernia and am not allowed to do any serious work at all. So this is realy all I can do right now and probably for at least the next month. But: I found it. The previous owner missplaced the fader - it was as easy as that ;D Wired it all in correctly - and the rear speakers are working (well, one is, at least). Expect more light stuff in the next time - I can't do anything else... Sucks! Cheers, Jan
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Mar 18, 2013 21:02:19 GMT
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More boring stuff - I warned you... Wired it all in correctly - and the rear speakers are working (well, one is, at least). Both working now. Took a bit of head scratching and by accident I found the culprit. The initial plan was to change the electric antenna. When I looked in the boot, I found this randomly cut speaker wire: Why would you do this!? I have no idea... ;D Next on the list: the power antenna. These things are real primadonnas... They jam as soon as there's a piece of dust on them. I had three spare telescopes - non was working (at least they were free - I know why now ;D). Sooo - a new telescope is too expensive right now. So what I did is cut the toothed filament that pushes the telescope out, re-installed the telescope. And now it's a manual antenna. ;D No retro without a shiney, long antenna Let's see how long it'll withstand vandalismn And then I threw the center console together again. And stumpled across a fault; the wiring for the (aftermarket) power windowd pushes down the mount for the switches in the console. The switches themselfes are fiex to the wood panel. No contact... So, install mount to panel and then panel to console - problem solved. ;D ^wiring NOT by me! Everything reinstalled, ready to go. Results: - rear speakers working again - radio working again - electric mirrors working again - one power window (passenger's) still dead, wiring OK And that's about all the work I'm allowed to do No heavy stuff... Sigh. But it's still winter anyway and I'm not too keen about the turbodiesel conversion if it's freezing. Cheers, Jan
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Mar 18, 2013 21:26:13 GMT
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Don't fret about the hernia, I have just had one sorted out and it has made a massive difference. 14 days since the op now and I am going to go for my first run tomorrow Well done on saving this one, looks almost as complicated as my XM
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Mar 20, 2013 15:55:16 GMT
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Don't fret about the hernia, I have just had one sorted out and it has made a massive difference. 14 days since the op now and I am going to go for my first run tomorrow So there's hope Just sucks... I'm not even allowed to lift my tiny welder. Sigh. Anyways. ;D Well done on saving this one, looks almost as complicated as my XM Thanks The hydraulics are familiar, but drastically reduced ;D Speaking of which, I've just bought a pair of pressure spheres as the bumpy rear end starts to annoy me. Aaaaaand: very good news! I was at the TÜV center a third time, this time armed with a folder of print outs, diagrammes and stuff: and the result of a good half hour of talking and checking data is: I can start the conversion any time - the engineer has no objections. The main concern was the maximum weight of the front axle. The Coupé has 900kg - the TDT has 1005kg. But after lots of checking, comparing numbers etc. I ruled the only difference down to the front springs. And I can proof it black on white. The proof was the important bit. And the max. allowed weight on the front axle was the sticking point of the project - as far as legal matters are concerned. I'm very glad it's not a problem Weehee! Cheers, Jan
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xrmike
Part of things
Posts: 165
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Mar 20, 2013 19:27:48 GMT
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Good news. I converted my girlfriends mk3 golf GTi colour concept from 2.0 8V petrol to 1.9 TDi. Was such a great conversion.
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Met this lovely, early 190E yesterday First time I've seen another painted 'champagne' So had to stop and take some bad pictures ;D
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Mar 23, 2013 23:25:48 GMT
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great read, loving the logic you apply to fixing problems, most could be running a mile when the voltmeter has to come out
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Looking good Jan, did you get your new garage sorted ? ;D
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great read, loving the logic you apply to fixing problems, most could be running a mile when the voltmeter has to come out Thanks My understanding of +/- is constantly growing with this car ;D Looking good Jan, did you get your new garage sorted ? ;D Thanks Dave! I have yet to visit the place, but thus far it sounds promising. Space is rare or expensive here. Finding somthing suitable that's not too far away - tough. Theres industry everwhere that occupies everything, needs storage - demand for space is high. Cheers, Jan
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The little scientist in me came out after a literally heated up debate in the german W124 forum. I said the cold air intake was not that important as soon as the car is moving. MY opinion was not shared - so I ordered two cheap chinese digital thermometers. The cold air intake was removed and the probes installed as follows. Probe 1: About the area where the intake draws from Probe 2: Righ in the entrance of the air filter Since the wires are a bit short, good ole duct tape had to come out... And then I set for a drive, watched the displays and took notes. And didn't mind strange looks I got ;D Outside temp. | probe 1 | probe 2 | notes 11° – 11,0° – 11,5° – engine cold, idle, standstill 11° – 11,3° – 12,3° – engine ~50°, 18mph 11° – 13,9° – 17,3° – engine ~50°, 0mph 11° – 15,3° – 22,5° – engine ~60°, 0mph 11° – 11,3° – 14,2° – engine 80°, 43mph Then 30mph for ~30m and stop. 11° – 19,7° – 35,0° – engine ~90°, 0mph 11° – 18,0° – 42,0° – ” 11° – 25,3° – 45,3° – ” 11° – 32,0° – 47,0° – ” 11° – 35,0° – 51,2° – ” Then continuedwith 30mph – after ~400m: 11° – 12,0° – 28,0° – engine ~85°, 30mph 11° – 12,3° – 17,4° – engine ~90°, 60mph 11° – 12,3° – 23,0° – engine ~90°, 18mph (60 to 18mph zone - crazy!) 11° – 12,5° – 17,0° – engine ~80°, 60mph (2km) 11° – 13,5° – 30,0° – red light 11° – 12,6° – 14,5° – engine ~80°, 60mph (3km) 11° – 13,0° – 15,2° – engine ~80°, 43mph Then a short distance w. 30mph, then a halt. Engine was hot and I watched the temps climb in idle: 12° – 26,0° – 41,0° – engine ~95°, 0mph, idle 12° – 30,5° – 47,0° – ” 12° – 31,0° – 48,0° – ” 12° – 34,0° – 49,9° – ” 12° – 36,5° – 54,0° – ” 12° – 39,0° – 56,0° – ” 12° – 40,0° – 58,1° – ” 12° – 41,0° – 58,9° – ” 12° – 45,0° – 59,0° – ” 12° – 47,0° – 59,1° – ” 12° – 48,0° – 59,8° – ” 12° – 49,0° – 60,5° – ” 12° – 55,2° – 60,5° – ” 12° – 47,0° – 60,0° – engine ~98°, vicous fan engages (bonnet closed) 12° – 44,0° – 60,5° – 1500RPM, fan on, 0mph 12° – 38,0° – 60,5° – ” 12° – 37,0° – 60,5° – ” 12° – 34,0° – 60,5° – ” 12° – 32,0° – 60,5° – ” Then I continued with 30mph, temps went down pretty soon and the fan disengaged again. 12° – 12,3° – 18,2° – Motor ~85°, 30mph after this I didn't take much notes but drove through 18 and 30mph zones and some a roads. Temperatures averaged 12,3 bis 12,6 outside and 16° (30km/h) and 14° (50-60mph) inside. Conclusion: I was partly right. But especiall at low speeds the cold air intake has it's place, as the difference in temperatures is quite a bit bigger than I assumed. At higher speeds it gets increasingly irrelevant - as far as intake temperatures are concerned. I guess the difference will be even higher with ambient temperatures above 30°, then the air intake might make the difference between overheating and not. An interessting exercise I'll repeat it when the turbo lump is in. And with the turbo will come a full engine bay encapsulation that reaches beyond the gearbox. I have only a bad picture of a broken engine capsule: This thing serves mainly as a sound insulation to keep the diesel noise down. But I guess it'll also have an effect on under bonnet temperatures and aerodynamics. Cheers, Jan
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Mar 29, 2013 14:50:10 GMT
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BLAAARGH!!! Oh the joys of hydraulics........ I finaly went to sort out the bumpy suspension and change the hydraulic accumulators, which are the actuall shock absorbers of the self leveling suspension. On the Coupé and Limo they'r very easy to access: But - of course, trouble didn't wait long and the problems started... First I had to modifie my only 16mm wrench to make it something just below 17mm to not round off the rotten couplings. Left side eventually moved. Right side - no chance. I had to undo the complete pipe and wind off the accumultor in the boot. Nice. The coupling is totaly stuck, rotten solid. Now the problem is; it's too big to DIY. I can't remanufacture it. And new it's over 100€ from Mercedes. I've submerged it in vinegar and leave it over night - but I have no hopes that this will help... Looks like the price for changing the accumulators has just doubled..... On a brighter note; I now have all the braces for the tow bar. Which is pretty much pointless if the car has no rear suspension and rests on axle stands Fook... Cheers, Jan
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Mar 29, 2013 18:17:56 GMT
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YES YES YES!!! Looks like I saved the pipe I found some 25% phosphoric acid, dipped it for 3h in it. Then some more Brunox Turbospray and gentle heat with a blowtorch, some more Turbospray and it started to move a little. Soaked it in more Turbospray, kept warming it - and it freed up. Now I can turn it by hand Another acid dip, then I'll leave it in a bath of Turbospray over night and then it'll be ready for re-installation. Phew! 100€ saved...
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Looking good Jan, would W123 suspension bits be any good on the W124 - if they do fit any you get stuck, give me a shout mate
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Looking good Jan, would W123 suspension bits be any good on the W124 - if they do fit any you get stuck, give me a shout mate Hi Dave! They'r completely different Even the 200T is different to the Coupé. Thanks for the offer! Appreciate it Oh and guess how motivated I am to complete the car... BLAAARGH!!
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Mar 30, 2013 13:58:52 GMT
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Despite the bad weather I continued to fix the shock absorbers res. rear suspension hydraulic. Needless to say the other pipe between the accumulator & hydraulic ramp was rather solid as well. Motivated by my great success with the passenger's side pipe, I removed the driver's side pipe as well. Again gentle heat and loads of Turbospray and it soon freed up and I was able to flush out most of the rust. Reinstalled everything, topped up the hydraulic fluid reservoir (BIG MISSTAKE! ;D) and started the engine. Bit of burbling and within seconds the system was bled. So put it back on the ground and moved the suspension up and down viathe regulator on the rear. What I didn't take into consideration was the fact that the hydraulic ramps are filled with quite an amount of oil - which was curse word all over the reservoir in the front when I lowered the rear ;D Whooops! But - the suspension works, the system is bled and - IT'S BLOODY FOOKING AWESOME!!! What a HUGE difference it made to the ride... It'S as smooth as silk, not bumpy like a Mini anymore! Awe-and-some more! Now it finaly rides like a Merc is supposed to do. Brilliant! I also reinstalled the Lorinsers. But to get to them I had to take out all the other wheels I have. And - WTF!?!? Where they'r all coming from!? Rearranged the mess and put the Lorinsers back on. And stored the winter tyres away. Don't you dare, Frau Holle!!! ;D And this arrived at my door: A electr(on)ic fan from a W210 E-Class. It'll require a electronic controller, I'll get one from the US as soon as they release version 3 of they'r controller. It will replace the viscous fan on the Turbodiesel. They are incredibly silent and very efficient, they move huge amounts of air. And controlling it stepless will add much better cooling in city & traffic jams Cheers, Jan
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