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Evening! Spent most of the time I had today under the car... Part one: removal of a stubborn two-piece exhaust. Noted, that I can't use the pre-silencer (two-flute); and the one from the TDT is too different - going to order a new one. curse word. But oh well - will save me quite some time.  The front part is still under the car - it's too long & twisted to be removed without a lift. And much to my surprise, the bolts at the manifold flanges were a) easy to get at and b) not stuck. Cool!  Then: the prop shaft. It's like the car about 8.5cm shorter, and the flanges have a 110mm PCD, opposed to a 90mm PCD on the CE.   Next candidate for removal: the diff. Having learned from my misstake on the TDT, I unbolted the drive shafts. Which went like this: crawl under car, poke dirt out of bolt heads, hammer in multi-hex socket, berserk bolt open (they'r glued in!) - crawl back, release parking brake, turn wheel 60° degree, fasten parking brake, crwal under car & repeat 12 times. Sigh. But: all went smooth and removing the diff was MUCH easyer without drive shafts!  And then: brand sparkling new parts!!!!!111eleven  The part I like most: every place in the gauge cluster will light up now   And that's it for now. Removing an engine with 4 hands is much faster  Cheers, Jan PS: oh, and the pile of redunant parts is growing bigger and bigger  |
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Mahlzeit! Pulled the engine today - after a 1.5h fight with the air con compressor... ARGH! What a PITA. Only one inbus screw holding the refrigeant lines to the compressor - guess what rounded off. And guess how accesible the two bolts are with which the lines are bolted to the engine, right under the injection... AARGH. After this was done, I pulled the engine. Went well and I had much more confidence this time. Only the engine crane leaks like a nun in a boys scout camp... Takes 3-400ml for each engine Good thing I recycled the ZHM oil I drained from the car.    Now: hydraulics, electrics and some minor body work... Almost done  Cheers, Jan |
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Next was to drain the fuel tank. curse word - I need to change the strainer in the tank - which requires a 42mm socket! o0 Will try to make one myself.  Then routed the hydraulic lines along the crossmember - didn't think here and cut the pipes on the car first - I could have just used the connectors allready there, instead of adding another couple of connectors. Sigh - stupid me! This is realy annoying. But oh well... Noone's ever going to see (except the whole internet ), will be hidden under the heat shield later anyway. But damn! Stupid misstake! Would have been a lot neater if I had used my brain.  Then discovered that the expansion tank has some large cracks I didn't notice earlyer. Scrap. Sigh #2.  Last action today was the removal of the fuel pump package - which left me drenched with fuel - sigh #3. I'm stell smelling of petrol - bloody disgusting! Petrol used to smell much nicer, nowadays it's just - disgusting. Incredibly disgusting.  And after that I finaly decided to call it a day. Not a very good/effective day today. Hmmpf. Tomorrow is another day. And I'm still waiting for my engine mounts anyway, I'm not going to drop the engine in with old, knackered mounts and then chnage them a few days later... Makes no sense. Cheers, Jan |
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Looking good mate!!
How many hours do you think will go into the conversion by the time your finished?
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Hi Dave! Thanks! Many, many hours... I gave up to make a shedule. Doesn't work. There's always stuff like this dreaded air con compressor p.e. that cost me probably 4h in total and so on. It's done when it's done, or something like that. I'm more concerned about money. I have a (for me) rather large budget, but it's allready getting smal. --------- Found the part number for the fuel tank connector, resp. the hose that connects to the fuel tank strainer (pics later, explains it better). It's only 10€ new - saves me faffing about with various line-reducers and stuff. Which was myfirst plan. Also my fuel tank has only 2 connections (some have 3) - will work well with diesel. One delivery line, one return line. Only need to create a 46mm(!) socket to get the tank strainer out in the first place (diesels have a larger mesh to reduce resistance, as the lift pump is on the engine). Cheers, Jan |
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Tepper
Part of things
Posts: 381
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I've enjoyed this thread and really admire your attention to detail throughout the conversion. I think your proper, thorough approach will result in this car being an excellent all-rounder when it's done, so keep working through those annoying problems like the AC compressor and I for one am really looking forward to this getting finished |
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1989 Peugeot 205 GTi - stolen!
1983 Mazda RX7
1968 Rover P6 - also stolen.
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I've enjoyed this thread and really admire your attention to detail throughout the conversion. I think your proper, thorough approach will result in this car being an excellent all-rounder when it's done, so keep working through those annoying problems like the AC compressor and I for one am really looking forward to this getting finished Thanks a lot! I know that it'll be worth it when I hear the engine rattling ( ) again And to make this happen sooner or later, I wired the glow plug relay in today. Well, half-way. As it was warm, sunny and generally awesome weather so I paused and spent the rest of the day in the green Was good to take a break Amazingly, the bolts for the ignition ECU line up with the glow relay - awesome! And then some fiddling to get the wires into the fuse box of doom and to the inside.   Cheers, Jan |
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Jun 10, 2013 16:48:24 GMT
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Sooooo - today I took my mom's Smart (*cringes* - at least it's a turbodiesel ) for a prolonged drive and dropped the prop shaft at the prop shaft shop. They'll shorten & re-balance it and when this is done, my flex joints will probably have arrived (over a week waiting now). At least the engine mounts turned up. And of course I did NOT get the correct fitings for the brake pipes - the 2nd attempt to buy localy. I've ordered them online now and hope they'll arrive soon. No hydraulics today. Hmmpf. In the meantime: more eletricery First I tidied up the glow plug relay loom. With some cloth electrical tape. I'm getting a hang for electric stuff.  Then, as the time was right - I installed a new stalk - with cruise controll! i was a bit unsure if it would fit as the TDT didn't have an airbag - but the contact ring for the airbag is just bolted ontop the stalk. Had to change over three brass dowels to bolt the airbag ring to the new stalk - easy-peasy.  Then some instrument cluster stacking to not mess up the wiring - went all smooth.  Untill: FFFUUU!! I popped the connector open to wire the temp gauge in (goes through the glow plug relay wiring), though I'd do it proper. And all the wires fell out the plug. 1h and 15 tiny connectors later I had the plug reassembled. What a PITA.  But: we have a diesel-instrument cluster and cruise controll! And the best part: the cruise controll ECU is working almost flawless. It's a slight bit jerky - I think it's not too late to give it to someone to change a few condensers. That's somthing I realy don't want to try myself - soldering & platines are BLACK MAGIC and the devils invention - I'm not touching that!  Then I tidied up the wiring a bit, put everything in it's place and that's it for today. Next part of the wiring: idle controll ECU. Blargh. I have the wiring diagramme here - but christ allmighty! Cheers, Jan |
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Jun 11, 2013 17:50:56 GMT
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My initial plan for today was to finaly couple the hydraulic lines and install the engine. Instead I did many smaler jobs that need to be done sometime anyway. You may have guessed it; AGAIN I got the wrong line couplings. SIGHHH! I've ordered some Ermeto couplings, will be faster anyway. No faffing with the flaring tool... Which doesn't work very well anyway. Oh well... Welded the oil cooler brackets to the car - and much to my disgust found out that the extra-loud horns need to go! They don't fir with the oil coolers... BOOOHH!! Will find another cushy place for them somewhere behind the bumper.   Installed the air intake & painted it black for more stealths...  Installed the washer fluid reservoir which now resides on the firewall. Amazingly, the holes for drilling were marked from the factory. Awesomsauce! Only the insulation had to be trimmed as the studs on the bracket were too short. And rerouted the washer fluid hoses.   Bad photo of the additional venti line on the turbodiesel - getting it though that black plastic thingy together with the brake pipe was - ARGH. But evntually both lines slipped in.  Made a 46mm socket to undo the fuel tank strainer - not tested, as supper interrupted me and made me stopp working for today   And last but not least; de-rusted the coolant bypass pipe that runs along the engine crossmember and heats the washer reservoir & also feeds the aux heater. Primered with Brunox Epoxy rust converter. I have to use that stuff at work - seems to work quite well  Also ordered some more stuff, bought some small thingys, bits 'n bobs aaand the day is gone Also did a bit of wiring, mainly feeding the cruise controll plug through the fuse box and into the engine comparment. Feels like I'm getting somewhere Even if I didn't get to install the engine today... Cheers, Jan |
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Jun 11, 2013 18:15:21 GMT
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RRG (or else ) |
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2001 HONDA CT110 (NOT RCV)
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Jun 13, 2013 15:15:15 GMT
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RRG (or else ) RRG OR BUST? -------- Today I did a lot of non-picturesque work; mainly splitting the wiring loom on the passenger's side to re-wire the waser fluid bottle. Which holds two pumps, one for the headlight washers. The headlight washers are triggered by the washer pump; resp. wired in series. And to make life hard; the wiring was fully integrated in the main loom, not separate like I hoped it would be, since it's an optional extra. Nope. All one loom; resp. distributed into two looms I had to split. There's also the washer fluid level sensor and the coolant level sensor together in one loom - had to splice this one too. All labeld - and ready to cut the mantling...  All split...  And separated & re-wrapped. Much to my amazement I only had to extend one wire on the spliced loom, but I will have to extend all wires to get them to the other side; 7 wires in total plus 3 earth connections.  Next action was the fuel system. Since I had no car today, I had to take the bicycle. Yikes! Must have been 3 years since I last operated one of those archaic machines that make your head hurt if you pull the wrong brake But; after a few hundred meters I remembered how to operate this piece of mechanic - and got to the MB dealership safe & sound. Where there was a piece of fuel linie with threaded fitting waiting for me. Background: old petrol fuel tank strainer and feed line to the fuel pump. Foreground: new diesel tank strainer and hose to the feed line. The diesel has a mechanical pump on the injection pump and draws the fuel all the way. The petrol version is more a 'gravity' feed to the electric fuel pumps (2!), which probably cycles a lot of fuel, hence the bigger hose. The diesel draws only the amount of fuel it needs.  And this strainer goes here:  Forgott that the rubber cover through which the fuel hose runs and which seals the boo compartment has a smaler dieameter - ordered a new one. And; good news! The prop shaft is finished, will collect it tomorrow! :-) Tomorrow my hydraulice line couplings will hopefully arrive as well - not long now untill I can perhaps drive this thing again (haha - nope. Will take a little while...). Cheers, Jan |
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Jun 14, 2013 10:41:52 GMT
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Well - took another drive into the Breisgau this morning, to collect my custom prop shaft   And loaded into the Smart - on the way back I also collected a new belt & some transmission fluid. forgott to take some snaps of the workshop, was quite an interessting place.  And: it's possibly the shortest Turbodiesel prop shaft ever  Also bought some wires and more wrapping tape...   New differential mounts will arrive this evening at MB's - untill then I'll do some more wiring. And I'm still waiting for the dreaded hydraulic line couplings. *SIGH*. Almost feels like I'm runing out of work - I'll start the engine wiring once the engine is in - desn't make terribly much sense to guess how long the wires need to be... Hmmpf. Cheers, Jan |
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Jun 14, 2013 16:39:02 GMT
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Windscreen washer & headlight wiper wiring loom axtended and routed to driver's side - annoyingly, the wires between the two pumps (switched in series) are to short by just 2cm.   Next was to install the wiring loom for the gearbox oil cooler fan - which went the other direction, to the passenger's side, starting at the fuse box.  And since I wrote about it a few times but never posted a picture; this is the rare beast:  Next was the fuel system, which is now finished, as far as the underfloor is concerned. The rubber grommet sealing the boot was ordered this morning and arrive in the afternoon - now that's fast delivery!  And then I noticed - shocking - that I never tried if the radiator would fit... Well it does. Like a glove. I know there are differences. Probably only the 4 bangers which got shorter radiator mounts.  That's it for now. Inbelievable, how much time is consumed by a couple of wires... Cheers, Jan |
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Jun 15, 2013 14:49:17 GMT
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Well - there was not much happening today. Bit more wiring - but the main part was to get the differential back in the car. Which was - exhausting. That's why i quit working for today... First I tried to get it up by balancing it on the jack - which didn't work and after some near-fatal close calls I gave up on that approach. Lifting it by hand was out of question - it's way too heavy to lift, being wedged under the car. After a bit of thinking I put it on a short plank, put a timber under one end, wiggled the diff to the other side, put a timber under the other end. And lifted the diff step-by-step higher. But even then it was a struggle to exactely line up the threads to put the bolts through the mounts - blargh!  After some hours of cursing, wiggling, sweating and shouting at it - it lined up and I got the bolts in. And it's securely attached to the car again I'll see if I have vibration, as the output flanges are of the late type with self-centering drive shafts. I have the old style drive shafts - maybe I have to realign them if vibration occures. But that's only a minor issue.  As last work today, I cooked my favourite soup - containing petroleum jelly & old candles.  What a fight. I'm knackered... It was PITA to install the diff even with a lift & gearbox stady like I did with the old 200TE - doing it this way was probably the worst job of the whole build... Glad that's over with. And even more glad I took the opportunity to install new front mounts (like a disc, go between diff & frame). Even if they cost 45€. Cheers, Jan |
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Jun 16, 2013 21:31:39 GMT
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Today - basically nothing happened. I installed the extra fuse box for the tow bar...  ...and finally finished the tow bar wiring. And then I dug into the electronic idle controll - found out it's only 8 wires, but long ones. And very short ones. Which will make it a PITA to wire in, but it's not as bad as I first thought and it all makes sense, now that I got my head into the wiring diagram for a bit.  Well - and then the 200T was collected - and we (bunch of W124 driving W123 drivers ) went to Straßbourg and spent the rest of the day there... My mind is free, there's space again, the Mini can return and I can crack on with the final bit of wiring - and the worst. I realy, realy hope all the parts I ordered will turn up untill wednesday - then MAYBE I can finish this project in a foreseeable time I want to drive this thing now, having spent a bit time in a 300TD today Cheers, Jan  |
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Jun 17, 2013 16:53:35 GMT
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ARGH. And even worse: Iwasted whole the day trying to figure out why I can't remove the ignition - no wait - GLOW key once I installed the lock barrel. I took everhing apart, re-installed it, greased it, oiled it MULTIPLE times. No luck... Guess what the culprit was?? In '89 W124s with automatic gearbox got a 'shift lock' system. Preventing the key from being removed when the car is not in 'P'. Via a smal bowden wire, which my car of course doesn't have, being a '88. Push a smal lever via a threadedhole wherethe cable goes - et voilá - key be removed. Damn! I had totaly forgoten about this! Awesome!! I feel rather very stupid now... Since I'm going to install the '90 shift console anyway, I might as well install this cable - or find a pre-'89 diesel lock. Which I probably will not. Oh well... Those cars are just way too complicated. Sigh. At least this 'wasted' daydidn'T prevent me from doing anything else - as there's nothing. But this will again add TIME to the engien conversion, making it again longer and longer... Sigh.  Cheers, Jan |
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Jun 17, 2013 18:57:41 GMT
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For every problem, there's a solution: This blue thingy controlls two things; the vacuum switch for shutting off the engine, and the white ring locks the ignition barrel, untill 'P' is selected. On the shifter is a bowden cable which pushes back the white ring to release the ignition key. Stupid safety feature!!   But: one firm grip and it's apart. Throw the white part in the bin and enjoy your diesel steering lock   Phew. Another unplaned work to cross off the imaginary to-do list. |
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Jun 18, 2013 15:25:29 GMT
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This:  made me sweat badly today (note: in the shaddow!) Despite the insane heat (last week I was working with a lined sweater) I did a few smal jobs, like installing the air guides around the radiator, the engine bay insulation and routed the vacuum lines from the ignition switch.  ^note the thermostatically controlled vent flaps!  ^on top: diesel, below: petrol. Only a slight difference - but since I have not much left to do whilst Iwait for my Ermeto couplings - I swapped it over. And then I found out what I expected: more inconvinience with the air con compressor... Despite what the parts list said, the refrigerant line doesn't fit. At all. Not even remotely close...  Was a long fight untill I had the lines off - and made a blanking plate for now, untill I find a correct regfrigerant hose. I don't realy need the air con, but maybe I try to get it to work at some point. I'll install all the parts, bar the hoses coming to and from the compressor - as stupid me trusted the parts list and didn't remove the hoses from the TDT... Ffffuuuu!!  |
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Jun 19, 2013 13:57:18 GMT
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agree about the heat - ^30 deg in germany and czech over the weekend
and I'm in an 08 sprinter with no aircon
must have lost a stone lol
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2001 HONDA CT110 (NOT RCV)
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