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Yesterday took us on a 1100km trip through blooming and dusty germany, to capture a capricorn, a rare species.  Though the majority of the miles was done with a very modern car which wasn't even run in when we started. And here's the other caprocorn I got a few weeks back helping the new one out the boot...  it's a antique hydraulic jack, made by the company "Steinbock" from bavaria. Steinbock translates into capricorn  And it will reliev my little 2t jack from duty. The little thing served me well for the last 10 years, though. But it's turned out to be too smal for a lot of jobs. Especially since i started tinkering with W124s.  This can "only" lift 1250kg, but it can lift them 90cm high! Enough, to chnage both wheels on either side at once  It's probably more than 50 years old, but still works very well. I greased all nipples (yes!), cleaned the roller's needle bearings (yes!), regreased them and prserved the patina with a bit of linseed oil. The other caprocorn will be sold soon, this is my new working horse - er capricorn Cheers, Jan |
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Continuing with my precious trolley jack, I gave it a quick service and light restoration today.  First of - jack it up. Just like a car.  I have no pictures of the steering roller's bearings, but they'r in good condition (basically a shaft on the roller, and a lot of needles surrounding it with a bearing washer on top in the arms holding the rollers). i cleaned them, re-cut a thread for the grease nipple and they could go back. Speaking of grease nipples; this thing has fifteen(!) grease nipples!  Six of which were sheared off. I replaced them by hamering in a torx bit to wind them out. Then I re-cut the thread with a greased fluted tap to clear out all the curse word. And then installed a new grease nipple where neccesary. The old nipples, if present, I cleaned and re-used.     The lovely signs of use have been preserved and the bare metal protected with a coat of raw, cold-pressed linseed oil. It gives a lovely patinated look and protects everything. And smells nice. But needs a week or so to fully dry/polymerize. And that's it. A very light resto - everything is in goo order and nothing needs replacing. Looks like this Capricorn had a good previous owner who at least gave it a service every now and then.   And that's the end of the short off-topic. The first real use for this will be the overhaul of the rear suspension, for which I'll be dropping the rear axle. I just don't know when. The parts are all waiting in the cellar Cheers, Jan |
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Apr 19, 2014 12:15:52 GMT
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Soooo - puting my newest toy straight to use I have a bit of time and a spare car for the next week - finally an opportunity to take this off the road for a bit longer (I expect some more welding). Very easy to put the car on axle stands with this awesome Capricorn Lift's it like nothing and the big receiver makes for a secure grip on the differential. I was a bit worried the car would tip over or slip off - but it stood very solid on the jack. I still was in a bit of a hurry to get the axle stands unter there, though Not used to work with a big hydraulic jack like this.  Then removed the exhaust - which was easy going, since nothing's rotten yet. The removed the prop shaft and now all bolts are soaking in penetrating oil, the shock absorber bolts are rotten solid. And it's like 8°C in the car port and windy - I have got enough time. Plus I'm out of big canisters. 'Cause someone didn't think and filled the fuel tank up with 20 liters of fresh diesel yesterday (-_-)... Can't find my mole grips. Pff.  |
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Apr 20, 2014 11:50:56 GMT
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Sooo - the subframe won't drop... The rear mounts are rotten solid. Prying is not very effective, as it just distorts the rubber and the force is wasted. a massage with a hammer to break them free was unsuccesfull too. I didn't plan to, but looks like I have to destroy them. They'r still good. And I guess new ones will never last as long... But since the prying has revealed a rust hole, I have to remove the subframe. Too bad we have two holidays in a row - can't use the angle grinder right now. Grrr!  Happy easter... Cheers, Jan |
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Apr 20, 2014 22:55:24 GMT
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Doing the same thing to one of mine today, took an epic amount of hammering to break the subframe loose from the mounts.  |
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1988 Mercedes w124 superturbo diesel 508hp
1996 Mercedes s124 e300 diesel wagon
1990 BMW E30 V8 M60 powered!
1999 BMW E46 323ci project car
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I stopped hammering when I feared I would cave in the crossmember Well, tomorrow is another day and the forecast predicts a cloudy 22° - perfect working conditions In the meanwhile I'm trying to figure out if the SLS dampers from the estate could be made to fit. They are more durable since the have a much larger bearing on the bottom. But apart from this - estate & limo/coupé are 100% different. The pipes & hoses are completely different and not interchangeable, the top mount is very different and not a straight fit - and on top of it all, the estate dampers are way shorter:  I rather look into finding a way to service the support bearings on the limousine SLS dampers There must be a way... It's easyer, probably cheaper and more people could benefit Cheers, Jan |
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I have serious jack envy!
Subframe bushed like that are a royal pain in the butt. I had a bmw with similar. The centre ally part was seized into the steel floor pan. Ended up snapping off in there and i had to drill it out.
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Apr 22, 2014 18:51:28 GMT
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I have serious jack envy! Subframe bushed like that are a royal pain in the butt. I had a bmw with similar. The centre ally part was seized into the steel floor pan. Ended up snapping off in there and i had to drill it out. And it gets better! For the other jack I payed 46€ and sold it for 190€ (due to be colected in some weeks) - which payed for a large part of the new bits anyway; got it out. But I had to cut the cast alloy core of the bushes and crack it with a BFH & chisel. And then the subframe dropped - finaly. Roll out axle from under car...  ...knock out the bushes with hammer, socket & chisel...  ...and pump axle to comfortable height (about 1.20m) for easy working  Then I changed the "squeal bush" (a radial bearing actually) - they'r almost always broken after 20+ years. And changing them is a piece of cake - if you have access to the right tool  without that tool - not so easy.  The other bush on the lower wishbone however will be a royal blöödy pain in the bum! More on that tomorrow. I didn't get to work much on the axle as I had to get the tool and also prmoised to return it today as it's often needed. Said bush almost always needs replacing when rotten bolts rip the dust caps apart. When I returned the tool, I also collected another MB tool to press in the new subframe bushes. More on that tomorrow. I've swapped over the first couple of new suspension links (I'll renew all of them), was quite a fight to undo all the old bolts and the back plate also put up some fight (needs removing for easy access to one bolt). Slowly getting there. And as suspected, one rear mount will need welding. Sigh. But having driven W124s with new rear suspension, I know it'll be worth al the effort! The difference is just spectacular! Cheers, Jan |
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Apr 23, 2014 17:20:04 GMT
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Today things didn't go smooth at all. Though the first bit went well, as expected. Pulling the front subframe bushes...  And next up: the lower control arm bushes. Yuk. Metal on metal, soaked in water for the last 26 years. I expected this to be fun - it was fun. Albeit the pictures will make it look rather simple & easy - but it took almost 4 hours for one bush. Sawing, hammering, heating, more epic amounts of hammering and swearing and then some brutal force to finaly wind them out. Them? It. I only chnaged one fpr today, that's enough...  First drill larger hole...  ...to accept a saw. To make a relief cut for the outer metal part. Sawing through that extremely tough rubber was no fun - it looks like a tiny amount, but the saw blade was constanly jamming... And by jamming I don't mean it made some reggea tunes...  Eventually I had hamered down the bush enough to me able to fit a socket through - te problem is, that there's virtually no support for the counter piece to pull the bush out. But somehow - I got there. With making use of lots of heat and a long extension to wind down the socket...  The new bush didn't even go in easy - it took some more force to - er - force it in it's place...  As I said - it looks like a walk in the park in those pictures - it wasn't. I was constanly fearing the drawing spindle would shoot through the ceiling, knock it down and burry me under 20 tons of concrete. I avoided having any body parts above the spindle like the devil minds holy water. What a royal PITA. But it was to be expected. Then I continued by pressing in the subframe bushes - as I need to return the tool tomorrow. Which is missing parts, hence I had to improve using an exhaust flange and a Mini clutch release bearing sleeve  By the way, the drawing spindle is - in good Oldbus tradition - a cut down W123 jack  Cheers, Jan |
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rr69h
Part of things
Posts: 313
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Apr 23, 2014 20:34:22 GMT
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Pure genius! |
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"Racing drivers never carry cash"
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Apr 25, 2014 18:21:20 GMT
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And number two gave up as well...  When I went to re-install the wishbones, i noticed - this.  And another smal holes right in the middle of the U shaped bracket holding the track rod. Both holes were adressed with some 2mm plate and the spark machine. Coat of primer, latersome paint, FluidFilm on the inside and all is fine. But don't ever tell mr. TÜV I welded the subframe  If you watch pictres of the car closely, you can see that the driver's side wheel always had a little axcessive camber... well - that'll be the explanation then:  And the pile of redunant suspension parts so far...  Track rods, examination of rear axle mounting point on the crossmember, possibly some welding - and then the axle can go back in. In theory should be driveable again next week. I could work much faster - but then, why rush things if there's enough time to have a coffee inbetween hulking rotten bolts Cheers, Jan |
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Apr 26, 2014 23:13:29 GMT
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Today's not worthy speaking of. Had a look inside the axle mounts - all like new. Then cooked some grease, gave the mounts a very slight coat...   ...and headed to France for some tarte flambée & special beers. |
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Apr 27, 2014 12:54:00 GMT
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Bolted all suspension links up in loaded position - it's allready much stiffer and doesn't drop down as much as it used to be!  and back in position - aided by my capricorns it was - much easier than I thought Some wiggling and the subframe literaly snapped into position.   I love those jacks!! Maybe I'm a bit insane - but I've just bought two more of them xD Skol! Now the brakes need reassembling, the exhaust needs to go back in and I need to bleed the ASD & rear suspension hydraulics - and then - it's ready to drive again. I've marked the tie rods so the tracking should not be out by miles, but it'll need doing. Will book that tomorrow. Cheers, Jan |
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Apr 28, 2014 17:25:49 GMT
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Had to happen; the rear winder motor munched the cable  The carrier was missing a lid, the cable popped out and the motor ate the cable. I received it like this - only comparing with the manual winder revealed the cause... Grrr!!! And of course the cables from the manual winder are of a different lenght. So for now - fixed mole grip winder... Sigh.   On a brighter note; back on the road! All works, the ride is much better!! MUCH MUCH better!! And it's not got a tracking done yet... Was worth all the beserking.   Cheers, Jan |
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s123
Part of things
Posts: 45
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On a brighter note; back on the road! All works, the ride is much better!! MUCH MUCH better!! And it's not got a tracking done yet... Was worth all the beserking. Cheers, Jan Nice job and a very nice writeup. I'm in for the same job on my 190E. Never done it before, seems like I will need some tools to remove the bushings. I'm quite impressed over your skills and the work you put into your car! It is a really nice ride! |
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_______________________________________
Life's more painless for the brainless.
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Thank you very much, kind Sir! I hope it'll be free of surgical work for a while now... Got a new winder motor at the scrappy, for 20€.  Why is it never easy!? But the internals are the same... So instead of tinkering with the wires I changed the internals - which are identcal. And put the motor from '88 back in. The newer is untested anyway and goes into storage. Main thing is the window works again. I readjusted it so it moves a bit better to reduce the strain on the pull cables... Still no wind noises, so that's fine. And re: free of work for a while; the blower motor started to squeal Now the thing is; there are two version of bloer motor for cars with A/C. They are not interchangeable. Which means: tear apart the water drains, rmeove the wiper, open blower case, have a look what you got, re-assemble, chase replacement, tear aprt again and chnage blower motor then re-assemble again. Woohoo! I have a spare blower motor from the 300TDT - that's a 50/50 chnace it'll fit. Considering murphy, it's probably more like a 25% chance it's the right one. So I'll just try to get hold of the other type and THEN remove the old one. I'm a clever b*stard, aint I? Cheers, Jan |
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I think I may have posted this on a previous page, but... I really REALLY like this Merc!!
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 1965 Mk1 Mini 1989 Porsche 911 3.2 Carrera Sport 2004 Audi A2 TDi 2007 Lotus Exige S 2011 Mini Cooper SD |
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Oh I was about to ask what the significance was and then noticed the milage. Good effort!
I like the little orange bits on the Speedo, but what do they signify?
Excuse my merc ignorance or if it was explained earlier somewhere.
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The shaded bit indicates inner city speed, the smal lines are shift points A bit unneccesary on a auto (but still they indicate if kickdown goes down two or one) Most early cars didn't have a speedo from the factory - in which case the shift marks are helpfull. The speedo got std. equipment for most engines pretty soon, but some smal engines (200 carburetted or 200 diesel) had no speedo for quite some time. I guess they just kept the shift indicators. And as said they can be usefull for kickdown too Cheers, Jan |
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And it will reliev my little 2t jack from duty. The little thing served me well for the last 10 years, though. But it's turned out to be too smal for a lot of jobs. Especially since i started tinkering with W124s.
Six of which were sheared off. I replaced them by hamering in a torx bit to wind them out. Then I re-cut the thread with a greased fluted tap to clear out all the curse word. And then installed a new grease nipple where neccesary. The old nipples, if present, I cleaned and re-used.
without that tool - not so easy.
The carrier was missing a lid, the cable popped out and the motor ate the cable. I received it like this - only comparing with the manual winder revealed the cause... Grrr!!! And of course the cables from the manual winder are of a different lenght. So for now - fixed mole grip winder... Sigh.
