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Aug 15, 2012 11:03:48 GMT
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Hi guys.
Lots of the front end of my Pantera has been brazed together - badly.
Can I get a torch of some sort and melt it off? Or will this goose the surrounding steelwork? If it is possible, what kit would I need?
Cheers,
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'83 GTM Coupe. 4A-GE Powered '00 GTM Libra Auto. Ick. '71 Detomaso Pantera. Current Resto '89 GMC Safari Tow/Kip bus '05 SAAB 9-3 Daily '71 Siva Moonbug. Not even contemplating resto yet.
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MrSpeedy
East Midlands
www.vintagediesels.co.uk
Posts: 4,786
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Aug 15, 2012 11:56:23 GMT
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To 'de-braze' anything, you need a lot of heat. Enough to get the whole area of braze to melt at the same time. Whilst doing this you ned to be pulling the joint apart to seperate the panels as soon as it softens. It's very difficult to do on small pieces, let alone on panel joints. You probably will distort the sheet metal due to the heat.
If you don't do the above you will find that the joint just keeps redoing itself due to the capilary action of the molten brass..
I can't offer any easy alternatives other than cutting it apart
Good luck
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,844
Club RR Member Number: 174
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Un-brazing steel.stealthstylz
@stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member 174
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Aug 15, 2012 12:07:28 GMT
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Could you not grind the majority out then heat it as above?
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10mpg
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,253
Club RR Member Number: 204
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Un-brazing steel.10mpg
@10mpg
Club Retro Rides Member 204
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Aug 15, 2012 14:03:29 GMT
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It depends on the situation, if you can apply heat to the area without damage it should be ok, to just pull apart if you can supply enough heat over the required area there is actually very little force requires, that said if this is sheet steel rather than structural parts then it will be very soft.. Oxy A will certainly be required...
Theres nothing wrong with brazed joint if they have been done properly (though MOT stations disagree for no obvious reason), is there any way of repairing the sections, what exactly is wrong with them (pics may help)
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The Internet, like all tools, if used improperly, can make a complete bo**cks of even the simplest jobs...
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edwell
Part of things
Posts: 199
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Aug 15, 2012 16:07:34 GMT
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one of the the wings of my old MK1 escort had been brazed on, I ended up cutting the end of a junior hacksaw blade off so I could get it between the panels and cut through the blobs of braze. this was the only way I could see of getting them apart without Oxy and potentially bending hell out of some very valuable Mexico wings, as the braze had flown quite far between the joint so I would have had to cut quite a lot out otherwise.
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Aug 15, 2012 16:19:03 GMT
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The stuff is everywhere and very untidy, and I could really do with removing it to get at accident damage around it. I'll try grinding as much off as I can before trying heat I suppose.
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'83 GTM Coupe. 4A-GE Powered '00 GTM Libra Auto. Ick. '71 Detomaso Pantera. Current Resto '89 GMC Safari Tow/Kip bus '05 SAAB 9-3 Daily '71 Siva Moonbug. Not even contemplating resto yet.
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MrSpeedy
East Midlands
www.vintagediesels.co.uk
Posts: 4,786
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Aug 15, 2012 16:43:02 GMT
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You might be able to run any excess brass off with a decent oxy/acetylene torch. Something like a No.3 or 5 nozzle should do
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v8ian
Posted a lot
Posts: 3,766
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Aug 15, 2012 17:55:10 GMT
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Brazing is difficult to weld over successfully, due to its make up, excess heat will cause the zinc to fume, this gas is highly toxic and dangerous to the brain in particular!!!!! Brazing has to be TOTALLY ground off, because its base metals, which vary from which type of braze it is, both the basic constituents will turn gaseous when welding over it, not to desirable because of the toxicity I have mentioned, and porosity of the weld due to the gasses permeating thru the weld. without seeing the mess you have mentioned its hard to offer a definitive answer, burn it off you will destroy the panel and your brain, grind it off, but make sure its done thoroughly so you can weld to the panel, this also is a problem as braze bonds with the surface of the parent metal at a molecular level, so more of the steel has to be ground away to get good fresh steel, I can see the best option is tidy it up, slap on some more filler, and forget about ever mentioning it,
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Atmo V8 Power . No slicks , No gas + No bits missing . Doing it in style. Austin A35van, very different------- but still doing it in style, going to be a funmoble
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Grinder, and rebraze on reassembly
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"No............I think I'll stick with the Maxi"
Arther Daley
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Aug 16, 2012 10:39:17 GMT
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Braze clogs up sanding / grinding discs very fast. Another method, not to be recommended, is heat up and then BLOW off with compressed air. Of course that means molten braze flying around hence not recommended and needs old fire blankets drapped over areas you won't want it to land (as well as skin protection)
paul H
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,714
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Un-brazing steel.Dez
@dez
Club Retro Rides Member 34
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Aug 16, 2012 11:09:54 GMT
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if i need to remove old braze or lead, i use the cutting torch. heat it all up til it melts, pull the trigger to blow it all off. simples. if you have oxy/A. you can get if off with oxy/pro as well, but its not as hot so its harder work.
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Aug 18, 2012 22:02:13 GMT
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So enguage the oxygen by pulling the lever? Funnily enough, if i did this on 1" thick steel, it would blow a hole, what it would do to 1mm panel steel id hate to imagine
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"No............I think I'll stick with the Maxi"
Arther Daley
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