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Hi Guys,
Am sorting a few small patches of surface rust on my old C Class Merc - so far i've removed any surface rust and used Bilt Hamber DeOx gel to remove any remaining rust.
Wondered what is the best way to treat areas of clean bare metal? I've got some Hammerite red oxide and some POR 15 - just wondered which is most likely to give the best rust protection?
Cheers
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POR-15 is supposed to, as long as you treat the bare metal correctly. I've heard of it pulling off the surface like a skin if it doesn't adhere. Once it's stuck on, though, it's very hard wearing stuff.
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I hate POR15. I've had nothing but grief trying to use it. Their bare metal treatment spray thing caused flash rust like you wouldn't believe. Total curse word.
I'm not a great fan of Hammerite products either but their beige and brown primers (used to be called Finnegan's Number 1) were always great and I used them for years.
Proper red oxide is still available, apparently, if you look for it.
I hear lots of good stuff about Bondaprimer and am going to try this next time.
Rust protection doesn't really come from the primer, it comes from getting the old rust out or properly neutralised and then saling it properly with new paint and wax/sealer
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1937 Austin Street Rod - 1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1976 Rover V8 - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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I'd avoid any hammerite paints. Bonda primer is good but make sure it gone off before over painting. top coating with anything thinner heavy may cause bonda to lift. its good on rusty metal, not great on clean metal unless its really roughed up.
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Hammerite looks really tempting with the big display they have in Halfords but like a lot of people here are saying... not really much good. I've found it reacts very badly with other paints which is like a bonus feature to further compound it pretty poor performance in other respects.
What I would recommend for bare metal is etch primer. That bites into the metal and gives you a very well primed surface which is ready to accept a top coat. 2k paints with a hardener are very tough but they won't be any use if you leave behind any rust or if there is a way for water to get under it. After etch primer and top-coat you can put on some underseal on it (assuming it is not a visible surface) Personally I like stonechip first, it's tough and thick, then go over the top with a waxy product. So etch, top, stonechip, waxoil
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,714
Club RR Member Number: 34
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POR15 or Hammerite Red Oxide?Dez
@dez
Club Retro Rides Member 34
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ive been using hammerite and POR15 back to back on various bits over the last 2 days. (customer wouldnt spring for POR15 at £40 a can and wanted hammerite at £10 instead).
hammerite- poor finish, doesnt self level very well, shows brush marks, and is thin in places and sags into corners. takes laods longer to harden off. second coat never seem to go on smoothly no matter how long you leave it.
POR15- goes a LOT further, you only need a tiny amount on the brush, very fluid compared to hammerite, self levels very well, brush marks disappear, better corner coverage(no metal showing through on corners), hardens off quicky, never feels tacky. WELL worth the money over hammerite.
if you put it on straight over a fresh sandblasted finish, it goes on brilliantly. i never use their 'metal prep' stuff and have never had an issue with it adhereing. if you put it on over a wirebrushed/flapwheels bare metal finish wiped down with thinners it still sticks but doenst cover as well so you will need a second coat.
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Aug 12, 2012 13:46:52 GMT
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Just wanted to say thanks for all the info guys, very much appreciated.
I think i'll leave the hammerite for painting some rusty gates or something similar & good to know that the metal prep POR15 stuff isn't all that, especially given that it's over £20 a tin!
Cheers
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v8
Part of things
Posts: 299
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Aug 12, 2012 21:30:44 GMT
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Aug 13, 2012 15:58:48 GMT
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That looks interesting...
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1937 Austin Street Rod - 1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1976 Rover V8 - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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Aug 14, 2012 14:13:39 GMT
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Hammerite chips and flakes off too easily.
POR-15 is pricey if you're just doing some small areas, but it goes a long long way. My Scimitar chassis got 2 good coats from a 946ml tin. It goes on well to a blasted surface, even a slightly rusty pitted surface. It doesn't like smooth shiny surfaces.
I only used their main product as it goes straight onto the part, I don't see the need for the metal prep product.
Remember too that POR-15 needs another product to protect it from UV, if you're painting top-side of panels.
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