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Nov 30, 2006 11:53:22 GMT
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My wife's '95 Sunny Estate is having some electrical/charging issues. A couple of days ago it had issues whilst playing a CD with the stereo turning itself on and off, this was quickly followed by dim lights, then a reluctant/stuttering engine especially in conjunction with other electrical use (indicator etc). The battery is about ten years old so I switched it for the virtually new one on the Cressida (larger, but same terminals - handy!) and the problems went away...for a whole day  . Clearly the battery is being drained, but there's no non-charge light showing (even when not running and the other warning lights are up) as it did before I fitted a recon alternator in the summer. The car will start with jump leads onto my T-5, but runs eratically once the leads are disconnected - it ticks over fine (assuming there's nothing electrical in use) but when the accelerator is pushed it stutters and kind of pulses - switching on anything (like the sidelights) will result in the engine stopping. To me it seems that either there's a faulty connection somewhere, or something isn't capable of carrying larger currents. Does anyone have any idea of what might be the problem or know of any tests I could do to narrow it down? I don't have a multimeter, but might be tempted to get one if it would help solve this problem. It's this type and it's a 1.6 16v (N14?):   Thanks in advance, and no she won't let me lower it ;D. |
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madmart
Part of things
love is: valvebounce in top gear
Posts: 559
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Nov 30, 2006 12:02:18 GMT
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are the engine earth straps ok, clean connections on the engine n body
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Nov 30, 2006 12:07:59 GMT
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That was one of my thoughts...nothing is particularly clean under there, and a lot of the cables have covers, I've 'wiggle' tested all the larger cables I could found and they are all pretty solid. Depending on what other info you guys come up with I'll take another look, would the engine earth strap effect things like the radio or just be the cause of the the rough running?
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Last Edit: Nov 30, 2006 12:08:25 GMT by rmad
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madmart
Part of things
love is: valvebounce in top gear
Posts: 559
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Nov 30, 2006 12:18:42 GMT
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does the radio work now, usally they turn off on ect when the batterys flat as they draw a bit of current, have you changed the alternator or checked if its charging. it should have between 13.5 and 14.5 volts at the battery when its running if its charging ok
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Nov 30, 2006 12:20:21 GMT
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'Red light indicates electrical fault. Similarly no red light indicates electrical fault.'
Can't remember where I read that once, but it seems relevant now, even though it's not remotely useful! ;D
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Nov 30, 2006 12:27:03 GMT
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a quick engine earth check, use a jumplead, connect it to the block and the body.  |
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Nov 30, 2006 12:31:50 GMT
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The battery is completely drained at the moment so no radio. When the car is jump started the radio works for a little while before turning itself off, suggesting that the alternator isn't working. I don't have anything to test the alternator voltage and I don't have another alternator - I'm reluctant to source another just yet as:
a)it wasn't cheap
b)it's not an easy part to find
c) I only just bought this one (I know that might mean it's the most obvious source for the problem)
d) The faults showing up seem somehow different from when I had an alternator problem
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Nov 30, 2006 12:32:19 GMT
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a quick engine earth check, use a jumplead, connect it to the block and the body. I'll try that! |
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Nov 30, 2006 12:32:55 GMT
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believe it or not if the red light bulb blows on some cars this means the charging system fails regardless of the alternators output... Therefor you get no red light and no charge... A mate had this on a Vauxhall a few years ago. Took ages to diagnose it. Worth checking though. Put 12v across the light, what happens?
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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Nov 30, 2006 12:34:25 GMT
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why not try running it with the fanbelt off/alternator disconnected. If you jump-start it with your Volvo, and then disconnect the jump leads, you'll soon see if the alternator is goosed because then the engine will have nowhere to get any electricity from for its sparks and it will just die.
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1972 Fiat 130 1985 Talbot Alpine 1974 Lancia Beta Saloon 1975 + 1986 Mazda 929 Koop + Wagon 1982 Fiat Argenta 2.0 iniezione elettronica 1977 Toyota Carina TA14 BEST CAR EVER!!!!!!!! 1979 Datsun B310 Sunny 4-dr 1984 Audi 200 Quattro Turbo 1983 Honda Accord 1.6 DX GONE1989 Alfa 75 2.0 TS Mr T says: TREAT YO MOTHER RIGHT! |
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Nov 30, 2006 12:40:54 GMT
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believe it or not if the red light bulb blows on some cars this means the charging system fails regardless of the alternators output... Therefor you get no red light and no charge... A mate had this on a Vauxhall a few years ago. Took ages to diagnose it. Worth checking though. Put 12v across the light, what happens? That's what I reckon it is. My Merc did the same - the charge warning bulb got knocked out and it stopped the battery from charging. If the bulb doesn't illuminate at all, even when the ignition is turned on, I suggest whacking in a new bulb and seeing how that goes. Would be great if you solved the problem for 59p!  |
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Nov 30, 2006 12:42:46 GMT
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So my facetious comment wasn't too wide of the mark then?   |
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Nov 30, 2006 13:33:21 GMT
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My vote is with knackered alternator - there must be a million of those in the scrappy surely? The alternator can still be charging enough to extinguish the light but be goosed I want to know what the problem is now |
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Nov 30, 2006 14:14:20 GMT
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I want to know what the problem is now Me too! |
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antdat
Part of things
Posts: 712 
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Nov 30, 2006 14:19:50 GMT
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yep sounds like alternator to me too, if it was a recon unit it shuold still be under warry I would have though,
another thought for you is you might be able to use one from anotehr nissan model like a primera P10/p11 etc making it easier to find a replacement
If you can get borrow a multi meter you can test it, you will need a fully charged batter though and test it across the battery terminials (about 14.5volts dropping down to maybe 14 with all turned on) with a little rpm
also you could test the actual alternator if the connections are easy to get at with multimeter
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Last Edit: Nov 30, 2006 14:23:41 GMT by antdat
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Nov 30, 2006 14:58:38 GMT
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After much hassle and jiggery-pokery I've managed to get at the bulb, which appears to be in sound condition but just to make sure I switched it for another bulb (fuel warning light) and it still didn't work so the bulb theory is a no-go. The fact that even the radio being on is enough to kill the engine would tell me that there is no charging going on at all surely? Wouldn't an alternator be less abrupt when breaking down? ps. I'm doing all this in the course of a normal day (ie. between school runs etc.) so don't get too frustrated when I don't get instant answers for you! |
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Kris
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,631
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Nov 30, 2006 18:30:25 GMT
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I don't know if this is any help but when I had the Polo it wasn't charging the battery, showed 12V at the battery with the engine running but ~14V on the back of the alternator.
Turned out to be a loose nut on the starter motor feed terminal, nipped it up and had the battery charging properly again.
Sometimes its easy to overlook the obvious.
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macky
Part of things
retro my ar3e
Posts: 143
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alternator connections or the alternator its self.......... also is the cd got a permanent live as these often drain the battery
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Pull off the small wire on the alternator. Either using a power probe or just a piece of wire supply it with a -ve feed. If the charge light then illuminates then there is nothing wrong the wiring for the warning light. My guess is simply a duff alternator.
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There will be a fusible link between the alternator and battery. Check it's not faulty, corroded or blown. They look like a green or brown plug with a loop of wire sticking out of the top or a very big plug in fuse. I havebn't got any Nissan data later than N13 so I can't be more specific unfortunately.
-Ed
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1962 Datsun Bluebird Estate - 1971 Datsun 510 SSS - 1976 Datsun 710 SSS - 1981 Dodge van - 1985 Nissan Cherry Europe GTi - 1988 Nissan Prairie - 1990 Hyundai Pony Pickup - 1992 Mazda MX5
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