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Changed the downpipe on the Golf recently. The exhaust is nice and tight and sitting nicely in the tunnel. I replaced the sleeve between the downpipe and middle section too as the exhaust was drooping a touch.
It's lowered so the rear beam is close to the exhuast so when I'm going over speedbumps etc it's tapping on the back bumper and knocking on the rear beam which is really doing my head in.
*taptaptap* *knock* *tap* *knock*
I doubt new rubbers will solve it. Any ideas anyone?
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1993 Mercedes-Benz 190e LE in Azzuro Blue.
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Well it's obviously out of alignment since fitting the new parts. Either the parts are wrong or you've reassembled it wrong (or a bit of both) so the only thing to do is to jack the car up and take a good long look at all the joints and mounts to see how/where it can be moved/twisted and manipulated into fitting properly.
Over the entire length of an exhaust system, it only has to be a teeny bit out at the downpipe to be a long way out at the tailpipe.
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`state
Yorkshire and The Humber
Posts: 1,215
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Its sometimes hard to straighten them up when the cars only jacked up at one side,as it will always swing to one side.Better getting it on a ramp if poss.
I had the exhaust hitting the beam on my lowered mk2 cav and if you twisted it round it hit the petrol tank.So just before the piece that goes over the beam i cut it and put a straight connecter in with a u-clamp either end.This lets me twist the beam peice up out the way of the beam but leaves the middle section where it is so doesnt hit the tank.
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Look at all the plastic people who live without a care.Try to sit with me around my table,but never bring a chair.
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Had this on my MKII Golf after new system. In the end fitted another set of new hangers and then lay underneath to see where it was catching / close. Turned out to be simply not bend properly and no amount of altering pipes or brackets made a difference so I just placed blocks of wood on underside and then levered against them with crowbar to "tweak" the offending areas of pipework. I should add the pipework was also supported on a jack whilst being levered otherwise the hangers would just stretch / break if you didn't do that  Paul H |
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RobinJI
Posted a lot
"Driven by the irony that only being shackled to the road could ever I be free"
Posts: 2,995
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Yep, I had to 'tweak' My Sciroccos exhaust to get it to clear both the tank and beam properly. I did it off the car using a bit of bar slotted down the exhaust to bend it gently. It would clear fine if I let the centre section hang low, but with it tucked up tightly to get decent clearance it would either hit the tank or beam. As said, the best bet's to get the car in the air and level, and just take a look and see where it needs moving to in order to get some clearance.
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Jul 13, 2012 14:36:11 GMT
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The parts I've fitted are correct and I've assembled it correctly. I don't work on stuff if I don't know what I'm doing. If the car was at it's standard height it wouldn't be tapping on the rear beam at all. The middle section was hanging low so once the new downpipe was on I tucked it up with new 54mm clamps. I'll get it up on ramps and have another look.
I was assuming it was a common problem on slammed Golfs etc and wondered what people had done to remedy it.
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1993 Mercedes-Benz 190e LE in Azzuro Blue.
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,309
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Jul 13, 2012 16:32:14 GMT
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I have had this on a couple of moderns. It was down to non OE systems being fitted. On the 306 on a pattern catalytic converter I I tried to level up the system near the axle (it was initially drooping down in the centre. Upon raising the system it started rattling under the seats. Even after I went to the Janspeed system it was still rattling away when say driving away from a junction. Eventually I decatted the car with a Janspeed pipe. The system fitted much better after that. Even when I sourced a genuine Pug cat to keep the MOT men happy that fitted fine too and resulted in no rattles  . I reckon It is either down to the lowering (although your car did not rattle before?), a poor part being fitted (tweaking/bending will help here), or one or two of the hangers could do with being changed. |
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Jul 13, 2012 16:56:38 GMT
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It used to tap against the bumper when going over big bumps or down nasty potholes. I'm going to start with the hangars then go from there. It's a Bosal downpipe so is good quality. I think pushing the middle section up has obviously made the rear bit drop a little.
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1993 Mercedes-Benz 190e LE in Azzuro Blue.
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Jul 13, 2012 18:24:37 GMT
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bosal isnt good quality, its a prime example of cheap rubbish that doesnt fit properly.
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tome30
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,001
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Jul 13, 2012 18:48:04 GMT
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Had this, bodged it, rear hanger now has a large jubilee clip around it, no movement no more, innit!
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Jul 13, 2012 19:59:35 GMT
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bosal isnt good quality, its a prime example of cheap rubbish that doesnt fit properly. My exhaust knowledge is weak, obviously. Well, there was about as much chance of pulling gold nuggets from my  than paying £158 (VW) or even £95 (GSF) for a downpipe to fit on my 22 year-old Golf. It was brand new and I won it off Thiefbay. Had this, bodged it, rear hanger now has a large jubilee clip around it, no movement no more, innit! This is the route I'll take if I can't adjust it  |
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1993 Mercedes-Benz 190e LE in Azzuro Blue.
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tome30
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,001
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Jul 13, 2012 23:15:18 GMT
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Had this, bodged it, rear hanger now has a large jubilee clip around it, no movement no more, innit! Whoa now !!! Only if your an idiot like me, wouldn't say it's the best of fixes. |
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Last Edit: Jul 13, 2012 23:16:26 GMT by tome30
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