slammed 66
Posted a lot
www.gtturbo.org
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Ok, so I'm sat here pondering a large capacity rover v8. What I'm wondering is whether or not it's possible to run, say a 4.0 or 4.6 range rover engine on a distributer and carb set up from an sd1? Am I right in thinking that p38 rangeys run coilpacks? If so is the dizzy drive still accessible on a late block or has it been removed from the casting?
Your thoughts please.
And as an advanced thank you, have a screaming rover v8
Ross
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86 Renault 5 GT Turbo 89 Renault extra 91 Skyline GTR 98 Mini 1275 mpi 99 Autech Rider www.gtturbo.org
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IIRC you have to use an earlier timing cover to get the dizzy hole back.
Dunno why you'd want to though, the std dizzy/ignition was a weak POS IMHO
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Koos
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10mpg
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,253
Club RR Member Number: 204
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Rover v8 gurus required 10mpg
@10mpg
Club Retro Rides Member 204
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P38's have a different timing case with an integral (much better) oil pump and no dizzy drive, the blocks are all 4 bolt though,
it is possible to have the 'intermediate' timing case, with the decent oil pump and a dizzy drive but these are rare, and to be honest the best thing you can do to any rover V8 is ditch the dizzy and go coil pack, so my advice would be to get a P38 engine and keep the coil packs and go megagsquirt or similar standalone..
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The Internet, like all tools, if used improperly, can make a complete bo**cks of even the simplest jobs...
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I think its possible by swapping the front end casing, but most builders who drop a 4.0/4.6 V8 in are dismissive of the carb setup as they go for the injection. Dizzy drives for the Rover are readily available - just got to make sure you have the correct drive for your oil pump - female or male. I currently run a 3.5 rangy engine in my Capri with a Weber setup, but will be swapping that for a 390cfm Holley. Binned the coilpack etc & got a good quality electronic dizzy. Have a look here for 'in depth' info: Rover V8 Forum (RV8's into anything = WIN!) www.v8forum.co.uk/forum/index.phpRover SD1 Forum (RV8SD1 biased) julianreynolds.forumup.co.uk/index.php?mforum=julianreynolds&sid=1e646c39b8ec0104172f3f5977323ce9
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Capri Mk1 3.5V8
Granada Mk1 Pickup 3.3V6
Audi A4 1.9TDi Avant
(soon to have 1969 Plymouth Satellite Sport Wagon)
ChArLy sAys ..WHAT WE ARE DEALING WITH HERE IS A TOTAL LACK OF RESPECT FOR THE LAW... hEhE!!!
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slammed 66
Posted a lot
www.gtturbo.org
Posts: 1,675
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Ok, thanks guys. Looks like I'll stick with the original plan of the 3.5.
Thanks again.
Ross
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86 Renault 5 GT Turbo 89 Renault extra 91 Skyline GTR 98 Mini 1275 mpi 99 Autech Rider www.gtturbo.org
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Noooo, you need the extra cubes!
If your hooked on carbs, the run them and use a mega jolt to fire the ignition.
Two sets of bike carbs with big stacks would look &sound awesome!
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Koos
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can you not just run a decent after market distributor?
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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task
Part of things
Posts: 374
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I just put a 4.6 block into the CSK. The block is a 2000 era P38 4.6, the timing cover is from the 3.9 Range Rover engine. The only thing you need to be aware of is the crank spacer, which can be made easily or bought fairly cheap. You need to use the sump and oil-pickup from the early engine too, the sump may need "adjustment" to clear the throw of the crank. I also had my ECU re-chipped to handle the increase in capacity (and the other mods like heads/cam). All in, not a terrible job. The "intermediate" cover is fitted to every 300 shape Disco1 V8 and all the soft-dash Range Rovers so they do come up, if you can find one then I'd go for that cover over the multi-belt. Something to watch out for with the later "Serpentine" covers is less availability of cam shafts and the clearance behind the timing cover does not allow you to run after-market timing chains (A weak point of all Rover V8's). Have a look here for more info; www.mez.co.uk/TuningTheRoverV8-pt6.html
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,309
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Rover v8 gurus required ChasR
@chasr
Club Retro Rides Member 170
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Ok, thanks guys. Looks like I'll stick with the original plan of the 3.5. Thanks again. Ross Instead of a 3.5, why not a 3.9? AFAIK you get the benefits of the 4.0 (4 bolt cranks, stronger engine, better sealing etc.) and you may still be able to use conventional distributors off the shelf .
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task
Part of things
Posts: 374
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[/quote] Instead of a 3.5, why not a 3.9? AFAIK you get the benefits of the 4.0 (4 bolt cranks, stronger engine, better sealing etc.) and you may still be able to use conventional distributors off the shelf .[/quote] The pre-serp and intermediate 3.9 does not have cross-bolts. Cross bolted engines (with very few exceptions) were not fitted with distributors. The intermediate engine does have the bosses for the X-bolts though
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Bring in a V8 from the Australian P76, 4.4L as standard and no liner worries, can be bored and stroked too, Datman has a container coming over.....Carbs and a dizzy as standard too..
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Bring me in a P76 - you can have the v8 and I'll build something else to go in the hole.
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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Ok, thanks guys. Looks like I'll stick with the original plan of the 3.5. Thanks again. Ross Noooooo! 3.5s have weak bottom ends...if you rev it the crank flexes and knocks out the bottom end. Ask me how I know! X bolted bottom ends are much better and 4.0s rev beter than 4.6's. I don't get why youre allergic to a Megajolt running the sparks...??
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Koos
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,309
Club RR Member Number: 170
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Rover v8 gurus required ChasR
@chasr
Club Retro Rides Member 170
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Instead of a 3.5, why not a 3.9? AFAIK you get the benefits of the 4.0 (4 bolt cranks, stronger engine, better sealing etc.) and you may still be able to use conventional distributors off the shelf .[/quote] The pre-serp and intermediate 3.9 does not have cross-bolts. Cross bolted engines (with very few exceptions) were not fitted with distributors. The intermediate engine does have the bosses for the X-bolts though [/quote] Ah, you learn something new everyday . I knew the 4.0s were cross bolted but not the intermediate 3.9s. So with enough effort (but probably as much as it would be to go to mappable ignition!) you can run a cross bolted engine with a dizzy?
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Ah, you learn something new everyday . I knew the 4.0s were cross bolted but not the intermediate 3.9s. So with enough effort (but probably as much as it would be to go to mappable ignition!) you can run a cross bolted engine with a dizzy? You certainly do, my 3.9 must be an intermediate, has bosses on block for cross bolts, ran a dizzy, had a serpentine belt though, hoping to run just an alternator with a shorter belt.
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72 Pontiac Firebird Formula 400. 95 BMW E34 525i Manual. 80 Lotus Elite, sold 86 Mk4 Escort RWD V8, sold
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task
Part of things
Posts: 374
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Ah, you learn something new everyday . I knew the 4.0s were cross bolted but not the intermediate 3.9s. So with enough effort (but probably as much as it would be to go to mappable ignition!) you can run a cross bolted engine with a dizzy? No, very easy, you just swap the front cover/cam shaft/timing gear/sump and add a crank spacer. V8 Developments will sell you a spacer or you can machine one on a lathe. Certainly much easier/cheaper if you already have the sump/front cover. I'd always put a new (uprated) cam/followers/timing gear into an unknown engine. I missed what car this was though?
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Last Edit: Jul 7, 2012 20:43:08 GMT by task
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1977 datsun 810 180b estate
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I still don't get your infatuation with old archaic clock work dizzys...
I've owned more RV8's than I can remember and ignition systems have always been a weak spot.
On a RaRo classic with LPG I was changing rotor arms and dizzy caps on a monthly basis.
IMHO ditching the dizzy and going Megajolt (ignition only) is the way to go. Combine that with lots of carbs and it'll sound awesome, and be reliable.
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Koos
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Looks awesome too...
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Koos
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