lucan
Part of things
Posts: 27 
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Aug 28, 2017 21:28:30 GMT
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Great photo, thanks. That car also has full length stripes which I think look much better than just front and rear wings like mine. I was told the spot lights on the front were for scanning morcombe bay for lost swimmers etc. Not sure if that's true or not. No, it's not true. Some had roof lights, some didn't. I think it was a pretty even split across all of the county's traffic groups. As for the stripes, I always preferred the look of the wing stripes. They were a little different from other local forces, so they stood out. Ken |
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Aug 28, 2017 21:50:42 GMT
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They will also be cheaper to get remade!
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Aug 29, 2017 11:41:30 GMT
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Excellent. Thanks for the link to bresco. I now have the clips. I also ordered some fuel pipe clips to replace the ones that hold the fuel pipe to the edge of the fuel tank. |
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Sept 5, 2017 18:16:15 GMT
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Door trim clips arrived from Bresco, so it was onwards with the door reassembly. I made a new door membrane and stuck it on with Gaffa tape. It looks like a bodge, but i assure you, thats how they were from factory. They must have got through some rolls back at the Rover factory!   Then i got the nearside rear door card down from the loft. I cleaned the hell out of this when i stripped the car and then wrapped it in industrial cling film. I was very happy to see the mouse hadnt taken a chunk out of any of the door cards. None of the mouse traps i set have been triggered yet either, so perhaps he has taken the hint and buggered off.  And fitted  Then i did the same with the front passenger door. I had to re-glue the rear edge of the vinyl as it was starting to come off.   So that is both nearside doors complete apart from the waist trim and door mirror. In the end i sent the Rimmer Brothers window channel seals for a refund and riffled through my heap of SD1 spares until i found decent ones. I'm much happier with the originals. I just gave the felts with a light scrub with a stiff brush. I'm still trying to source a manual window winder mechanism for the rear offside door, and i need to repaint the driver's door card and then wait seal trims, mirror and the doors are finished. |
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steptoeshaw
Yorkshire and The Humber
4 Rover SD1 V8's and an MG Midget. The rest of my cars aren't retro yet
Posts: 148
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Sept 5, 2017 19:23:22 GMT
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Great work as always.I have a daft question. And ive sort of answered it because I know sd1 rear window don't go all the way down but did it always have windey Windows in the back or were they blanked off? Just wondering for the criminals trying to escape.
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Sept 5, 2017 20:05:01 GMT
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Nice job! Those door cards survived very well. It is frustrating when you bought new parts and believe these can be fitted rather easy and then find out these cannot be fitted because dimensions are different and another evening is gone.
I once spend the best part of a day to rebuild a new MGB grill because it was assembled very badly.
Keep up the good work!
Peter
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Sept 5, 2017 20:16:12 GMT
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Great work as always.I have a daft question. And ive sort of answered it because I know sd1 rear window don't go all the way down but did it always have windey Windows in the back or were they blanked off? Just wondering for the criminals trying to escape. I don't actually know. I guess you could unbolt the winders and then put the child locks on and then the crims would be stuck in there. |
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Sept 5, 2017 20:18:50 GMT
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Nice job! Those door cards survived very well. It is frustrating when you bought new parts and believe these can be fitted rather easy and then find out these cannot be fitted because dimensions are different and another evening is gone. I once spend the best part of a day to rebuild a new MGB grill because it was assembled very badly. Keep up the good work! Peter Yeah it's a real pain. Cost about £100 too so I hope I get a refund. I've had loads of stuff that didn't fit, work, was rusty, or just not fit for purpose. Water pump, viscous, dizzy cap, seals, ht leads, headlight brackets, brake servo and probably more I've forgotten about. |
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Sept 8, 2017 11:43:20 GMT
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My colour matched vinyl paint has arrived from Vinylkote. I went for Vinylkote as it is meant to be good for flexible non leather surfaces. Plus you get a pre prep solvent to put on that eats into the vinyl and makes it slightly tacky so that the paint will bond properly and wont de-laminate. Judging from the paint runs on the can, the colour match looks promising. My only concern is that i am painting a dark brown door car lighter brown. Not sure how well that will work? I guess ill find out on the weekend. I'm going to use a second hand door card first, and if it looks wibblepoo, ill just fit a brand new old stock door card and live with the colour difference.   |
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Sept 8, 2017 12:30:03 GMT
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What was the cost from Vinylkote? looking to repaint my trailer cover.
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Sept 8, 2017 13:05:06 GMT
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£75 for the 2 custom mixed aerosols, (minimum order), 1 can of cleaner, 1 can of prep and the postage.
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jamesd1972
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,921
Club RR Member Number: 40
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Sept 8, 2017 13:50:01 GMT
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Fingers crossed for you !
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Sept 8, 2017 18:01:27 GMT
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I think you'll be fine Jim, it's got a good coverage and if put on evenly it'll be no trouble on the darker colour.
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1980 Vauxhall Cavalier MK1
1970 Mobyleete 40T custom
1978 Mobylette 50V
1965 Moulton Standard
1979 Raleigh Grifter custom
1980 Raleigh Grifter
1982 Raleigh Grifter BMX custom
1982 Raleigh Bomber
1987 Strida
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Sept 8, 2017 19:07:33 GMT
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That's reassuring to hear. Hope it stays dry this weekend so I can spray it outside.
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Might just be me but I can't see the last 2 lots of photos - just a white square?
All the ones on page 46 are ok though - mouse traps, glass, etc.
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bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,975
Club RR Member Number: 71
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Might just be me but I can't see the last 2 lots of photos - just a white square? All the ones on page 46 are ok though - mouse traps, glass, etc. just do a refresh on the page |
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Sept 9, 2017 18:54:38 GMT
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Well its not often that a plan works out so well, or a product exceeds my expectations so much. I am now a big fan of Vinylkote. I started by removing the plastic ventilation grill and arm rest from the replacement door card and then the cleaning began. Initially I used warm water and kitchen towel to get the majority of the dirt off. Then i switched to a really soft nail brush to get into the textured surface of the vinyl. Then i used the Vinylclean stuff that i got with the paint. I did two complete passes with this until the kitchen towel was coming back clean. All this cleaning took the best part of an hour, but i know that paint doesnt stick it there is dirt involved. Cleaned door trim  Then i moved on to the Vinylprep. This stuff smells funky and there are lots of warning not to get it on your skin and eyes etc. It certainly powerful stuff, as it started to digest the soft rubber arm rest pad, but there are warnings that it might make surfaces tacky.  There was one strip of trim glued to the door card that i couldnt remove, so masked it off, along with the internal window seal, and then Vinylprepped the door card.  Next it was time to spray. I was impressed with the quality of the nozzle on the aerosol. It gave a nice fan rather than a cone of spray. I did as was advised and did thin mist coats rather than think ones. It worked great. Here is old, vs newly painted vs sample of how dark it was to start with.  |
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jamesd1972
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,921
Club RR Member Number: 40
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Sept 9, 2017 20:08:46 GMT
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Wow - that's a great result !
Very happy for you.
So on the road by end of the month ?....
James
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Sept 9, 2017 20:20:53 GMT
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Then i reattached the brown plastic vent grille, the black plastic ducting at the top and the armrest cushion, then carefully fitted it to the car. Right from day one i knew finding a door card for a manual window winder car in the correct shade of brown was going to be a problem, so I'm over the moon that this has worked so well. I was very sceptical about any kind of paint but i am now converted.   I also did my instrument binnacle cover. This was an original grey one, new old stock that i got from rimmers. It is slightly warped, but I'm going to try and sort that with either some grp resin, or by bonding sheet steel to the underside. The first photo shows the first guide coat, so you get an idea how thin you put them on. Second is it about half way though. In the end i used just one aerosol can to do the door card, foam armrest cover thing and the instrument binnacle cover. There is still some left in the can too. Plus Vinylkot keep your custom colour on their file, so they can make up more to match if you need it.   After that success i moved onto the waist chrome strips and seals. I fitted them with new rubbers, then onto the car with lots of bilthamber cavity wax spray. I also painted the top edges of the door skins with cavity wax to help protect them.  Also fitted the mirrors and side repeaters which makes the car look much more finished. I was going to fit new side repeaters for the bright orange fresh look, but the ones i got off ebay were wibblepoo pattern parts that didnt have the austin rover logo on and didnt fit properly. SO i cleaned and polished up the originals.  I also fitted the rear wing chrome trims on their riveted clips. Ultra paranoid about chipping the paint with the rivet tool, so plenty of masking with gaffa tape. Again, plenty of cavity wax applied as the little clips can rot out. Clips and fittings  Masking  Trim on  |
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Sept 9, 2017 20:57:49 GMT
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Last thing today i had a go at fitting the gutter rail trims. This is a massive pain in the balls. They are made from thin stainless steel, pressed into a C-section and with a long curve to follow the roof line and A-pillar. The top sits on the gutter rail and the lower edge is forced over a lip on the underside and that holds them in place. However, some force is required to get it to clip on, and if you try and tap it on with the palm of your had, they bend or dent. I knew this job would be tricky, so i had originally palmed it off to the bodyshop who did the paint, as i though they would probably have the knack or a cunning tool. They did get them on, but when you looked along the length of them, they were dented and rippled. So when i got the car home i pulled them off and had to buy a new set of trims. Also the bodyshop scratched the paint on the rear quarters, and although they touched it in by hand and did a good job, you can still see it which is annoying on an otherwise unblemished paint job. I'm trying to work out whether i can sand it back and polish it out as the paint is quite thick or whether i will need to get this bit repainted. I'm sure i will scratch the paint before its finished, so ill just leave it for now and wait till ive finished the car before addressing any minor imperfections. So i set about fitting the new gutter trims. I didnt actually mean to, i was more just looking at the feasibility of doing it, but my hands kind of took over. Sometimes thats the best way of getting stuck into the difficult jobs. I learnt that when doing the weldathon. Just get stuck in and you'll probably work it out. I lubed up the rear drivers side section with yet more Bilthamber cavity wax and very gently started to fit the rear drivers side section. The first part went on ok, as its pretty straight. I put two pairs of rubber gloves on to try and protect my hands and also to try and cushion the thin metal a bit. Then it was a case of using finger strength to manipulate the trim over the lower lip, no bashing involved. I'm glad i used to do a lot of rock climbing and still have strong fingers. This went pretty well, and soon the rear section was on and completely dent free. One tip for anyone else doing this...I actually used a sander to sand back the farthest rear end where it meets to body, as on mine it was trying to did into the paint, and probably why the bodyshop scratched it. That way it went on easier, didnt foul or scratch the paint. Filled with confidence i set about the front section. This was much harder as the profile at the corner of the roof at the A-pillar wasnt quite right. Its on there, but not clamped fully home. I think i might have to let it settle for a few days and then get some heat on it and a rubber soft mallet to tap the last bit on. Still overall I'm very happy. No dents so far and it hasnt fallen off. Still need to do the passenger side though. Cavity wax lube stuff  From the front, dent free!  No dents from the rear either  |
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