eurogranada
Europe
To tinker or not to tinker, that is the question...
Posts: 2,556
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Feb 13, 2017 16:06:13 GMT
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Please be careful in covering up your car like that with a sheet of plastic. Fresh paint needs to breath for 90 days I've been told many times over to fully let the thinners evaporate from the paint. Even when a car has been "baked" in the booth. It may not be relevant to all paints, but I've erred on the side of caution ever since the following happened to me...
I learned the hard way that covering up my fresh paint leaving no room for the paint to breathe is not a smart thing to do. I once had my previous oldtimer, a 66 mustang coupe V8, fully bare metal painted. My paint started showing some reactions quite soon after getting the car home. As I had to work under a carport and the car was just a rolling shell without glass, locks etc. I covered it up. Put a soft blanket on the paintwork, covered the rest of the car with a tarp. In all the places I had had the paint covered, the paint reacted. Paint became sort of a moonscape of small craters and bubbles. After taking it back to the painter he was quite certain and clear on what had happened. The thinners had become trapped and that had caused the reactions. The paint representative confirmed that. It may have helped that there were 11 layers in total on that car in relatively quick succession.
As I was never advised of this possibility the corrective work was carried out under warrenty, but it did mean repainting most of the flat surfaces of the car like roof and boot. As the bonnet was not fitted at that time and stored in house, it escaped the situation.
The granada wasn't covered for quite a long while after painting. Gathering dust. Only after long months and a wash I dared keep it covered in a thin sheet of supposedly permeable/breathable plastic...
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Feb 13, 2017 19:45:57 GMT
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Thanks for the tip. Just rang my Dad and asked him to head up to the garage and take the plastic off!
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Feb 13, 2017 20:02:04 GMT
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I nearly said as well, any car covers = paint blisters.
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Feb 13, 2017 21:59:47 GMT
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was just about to give you that advice as well let the paint breath for a few days until it hardens properly , i got caught out on a similar job before restoring my car . If you go back and there is dust on the car use a cold air blower to blow it off on low pressure.
not hot either , as if you go to rub it off if the paint is soft you will end putting grains into the paint which will have to be rubbed down , and polished out.
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Feb 19, 2017 21:57:04 GMT
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Well as per the advice, i removed the plastic sheet to let the paint breath, or rather my Dad did, as i was over at my place. Here is the PYE roof whip aerial Victor2300 supplied. This is the one i need to match. It is about 112 cm long total and with a chrome/stainless finish. So if anyone has one similar or knows someone who has, please let me know.   I started to fit up the rear end. This was for two reasons, 1) If the bumper is on, ill less likely to bump into and scratch the paint. 2) I was dying to see the shiny rear lights bolted up against the gleaming white paint! First i fitted the rear badge bar. This has been sealed with Butyl sealer, that never fully hardens as advised by others. Then i fitted the rear bumper mountings. I have cut small pieces of neoprene foam to protect the paint, and more Buytyl sealer. Ummm shiny bolts. All of the bolts were painted over with Dynax. I also fitted the fuel filler flap, latch and lock.    Then the bit i have been waiting for.... the lights! I pulled the gaskets from the lights and used the Butyl sealer to stick them to the car. Then i fitted the light units. Man they look good!   Thinking logically, the next step was to do all the cavity wax application. I tidied up the garage and put some polythene sheet down to save the clean up time. Now ive never done this before, and the regulator valve on my compressor doesn't seem to do anything when i turn it. That meant that i ended up putting big pressure into the Dinitrol tin with the all too predictable result of a whoosh splat noise and lots of mess. Still at least this corner of the boot will never rust. My solution was to turn off the power to the compressor and let the reservoir discharge so that i didnt over pressurised the tin again. Now this was messy, but quite good fun in a way. All done now, i just need to let it go off and clean up any residue.   Last thing today i continued cleaning up the wiring loom. I bought a couple of tins of contact cleaner and went looking for corroded or broken wires and terminals. So far it is actually looking quite good, apart from the engine loom which is pretty toasted. I have two rolls of blue loom wrap from an auto electrical suppliers. I plan on going through the whole loom and re wrapping it as i check the wires in more detail. But that is for another weekend.  While i was cleaning up the garage i found and then fitted all of the floor bungs. I also used grey Gaffa tape to cover up some of the other holes that don't have bungs. Now this might sound like a massive bodge, but its how Rover did it originally and i am replicating it.  And here is how it used to look!  Some more before and after shots.   |
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eternaloptimist
Posted a lot
Too many projects, not enough time or space...
Posts: 2,578
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Looking good. You can get a small air pressure regulator which fits directly onto the inlet of the gun.
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XC70, VW split screen crew cab, Standard Ten
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Feb 20, 2017 10:43:29 GMT
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Better to get a regulator/water trap and be done with it. Water trap is essential for tools & painting. Cheap one here - I'd advise spending more for a better quality one though. link |
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jamesd1972
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,921 
Club RR Member Number: 40
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Feb 20, 2017 11:12:54 GMT
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I think the angle of the tape bottom left is all to cock compared to the original photo. Please re-do to maintain the ongoing standards !
Keep up the good work, going to be a very special car once finished.
James
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Last Edit: Feb 21, 2017 10:25:36 GMT by jamesd1972
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Feb 20, 2017 13:28:43 GMT
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Loving the progress  |
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Feb 24, 2017 21:53:02 GMT
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We Here is the PYE roof whip aerial Victor2300 supplied. This is the one i need to match. It is about 112 cm long total and with a chrome/stainless finish. So if anyone has one similar or knows someone who has, please let me know. Hi Jim Looks like one of our club guy's has one. He's away for a few days at the moment so he's going to sort it out sometime next week. Do you want to PM me with your contact details and I'll pass them onto him rather than going through me as a third party. Car looks stunning, it's hard to believe it's the same car that I'd seen on eBay before you bought it and laughed at it's condition. So glad you did buy it though. Not only has another "classic" police car been (spectacularly) saved, but it's been one of the most riveting reads since the sinking of the Titanic and the Battle of Britain!! |
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Feb 26, 2017 15:49:26 GMT
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Great news! Thanks. Message on its way.
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Feb 26, 2017 22:46:56 GMT
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Ive had quite a productive weekend. I started 9 am on Saturday and didnt leave the garage till 5:30. Then i did about 3 hours on Sunday too. My girlfriend is very tolerant I started by checking on how well the Dinitrol had had coated the front inner wings and inner sills. For this i used a USB camera probe that my cousin bought me a couple of years ago. The Dinitrol had done its work. Here is a shot of the captive threads at the rear end of the nearside sill. Plenty of oily goodness inside. One area that hadnt coated quite so well was the front inner wings, so i went over these again with the Dinitrol.   Then i fitted the new pump and sender to the tank before fitting the tank to the car. I put some black waxoyl over the top side of the tank, as that's where they like to rust the most. I got the filler neck on, but it was a bit of a fight to get it to sit with the rubber grommet nicely.  After that i turned my attention to the wiring loom. I had already cleaned it all with water, brake cleaner and electrical contact cleaner, but sections of the loom still looked pretty grubby. So i bought 2 rolls of the proper electrical insulation tape. This is not actually adhesive, like electrical tape. Its the proper stuff bought from an electrical supplies online shop. The colour match is very good. In the photo below the top is the loom at the nearside of the engine bay in its original grubby blue. The lower section is the newly reinsulated offside engine bay loom.  Loom then placed into approximate location  Then it was time to thread the loom through the nearside and offside inner wings. I wrapped the looms in cling film so that as i threaded them through they wouldnt get all dirty again in Dinitrol. Offside in position.  Much of the cabin insulation pads had broken down, were perished, cracked or rust stained. So i bought a large roll of heavy hardura which is a sound deadening material for cars and was used alot in the late 70's on Jaguars and MG's etc. I had thought of using modern silver adhesive stuff but i though this matched better with what was there originally. I remade the main floor pan insulation panels and the cabin side of the front bulkhead panels.  Old vs new  The insulation panel over the transmission tunnel is moulded especially to shape. It was cracked in a few places, however the hardura would not fit snugly over such a complex shape, so i salvaged the original trans tunnel panel. The cabin carpet is quite close fitting, and the centre console wouldnt fit properly if it was all placed on top of some poorly fitting insulation. Where it was cracked i used some Gaffa tape to hold it down.  After that i test fitted the heater blower unit. The new foam on the underside and where the heater hoses go through the bulkhead is still quite pert, so i have bolted the unit in and will leave it there so the foam compresses a bit. Then i will remove it, put Butyl on the bulkhead and the refit it agian for the final time.  I also test fitted the dash to make sure the heater unit was far enough forward.  I also fitted the new old stock bonnet badge, headlight surround chrome strips and indicators. Ummmm shiny.   |
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fer4l
Posted a lot
Testing
Posts: 1,497
Club RR Member Number: 73
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Feb 26, 2017 22:58:05 GMT
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Looking great Cheers Matt |
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bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,975
Club RR Member Number: 71
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Feb 26, 2017 23:07:11 GMT
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Looking great Cheers Matt ^ whs |
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Feb 27, 2017 10:21:59 GMT
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This has to be my favourite RR thread ATM, great work.
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Feb 27, 2017 19:57:02 GMT
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Loving this rebuild , greatly helping my MoJo to get back in the garage on my Landie, amazing how putting on a badge or piece of chrome makes a world of difference
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retired with too many projects!
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Feb 27, 2017 21:15:10 GMT
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Yes, my colleague said I should have saved the bonnet badge as the very last part to go on, but I couldn't resist!
Plus the more I can find and bolt on, the less boxes I have cluttering up the place.
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bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,975
Club RR Member Number: 71
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Yes, my colleague said I should have saved the bonnet badge as the very last part to go on, but I couldn't resist! Plus the more I can find and bolt on, the less boxes I have cluttering up the place. I've been there........... If it has a home and you can fit it now - do it  |
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Lovely to see this thing coming together.
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Davey
Posted a lot
Resident Tyre Nerd.
Posts: 2,349
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Now ive never done this before, and the regulator valve on my compressor doesn't seem to do anything when i turn it. That meant that i ended up putting big pressure into the Dinitrol tin with the all too predictable result of a whoosh splat noise and lots of mess. Still at least this corner of the boot will never rust. My solution was to turn off the power to the compressor and let the reservoir discharge so that i didnt over pressurised the tin again. Now this was messy, but quite good fun in a way. All done now, i just need to let it go off and clean up any residue. ] I sympathised with this so much! Things like this usually happen to me as soon as i turn my back on them and think, where the hell is that noise coming from.... Love the work! Finish line is in sight and i can't wait to see all your hard work come to fruition. |
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