GavinJ
Club Retro Rides Member
MGB 3.9 v8 Sebring
Posts: 927 
Club RR Member Number: 209
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My project is finally nearing the point of paint, but its been while since i prepped my Beetle and can't really remember what grade papers people suggested, just got my myself a 6" DA and need to get some papers sorted.....
What grit should be using as final prep before paint? 800 grit?
Any advice appreciated.
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GavinJ
Club Retro Rides Member
MGB 3.9 v8 Sebring
Posts: 927
Club RR Member Number: 209
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Forgot to add i have also got to prep some fibgreglass panels, am i right in thinking i need to use a different primer for plastics? A quick pic of where i'm at,  |
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froggy
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,099
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What paint ? 2k celly or base and clear ?
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GavinJ
Club Retro Rides Member
MGB 3.9 v8 Sebring
Posts: 927
Club RR Member Number: 209
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celly in original colour.
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drpete
Part of things
Posts: 125
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id go for 2k primer as it more stable and all primers sould be ok for glass as you can treat as like filler but if it plassic it will need adision promoter as for paper for filler 40-80 but finsh 120-180by block old stable paint 240-320 da feather well backto lose edges, after primer personal prefence 400 w/d blocked them 800 w/d blocked the back over 800 by hand at wet flatting keep very clean and dry well if you any powdery bits that is potenal dust prob any bare metal spray with etch
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Jun 10, 2012 10:48:40 GMT
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As above but be a bit careful with 40 grit,it's very harsh and we never used it in the bodyshop but it's not wrong to use it just it could end up needing another skim if it's gone too low.
Cool looking project btw.
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a good 2K primer which is properly cured should be a good base for celly and some 2K primers are non-Isocyanate so you can treat them like any other paint - ie with basic care but not with massive fear LOL.
If its still available and still non-Iso I would recommend Lechler TI Green as a very high build primer. It will need a direct-to-metal product under it like an epoxy but it builds well, sands easy and leaves a nice finish. Its also not bad priced.
I wouldn't go as fine as 800 if I was going on with celly as celly is a purely keyed adhesion when applied over cured primer. 2K and other modern paints chemically bond with the primer in some magical way meaning they need less "tooth" in the key to stick.
I'd probably stick with 600 as final stage of prep on your cured primer for celly top coat.
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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If going 2k I'd go epoxy first, on the fibreglass too. Then wet-on-wet with Green Ti. Clean the gun, have a brew, and start hosing on the hi-build. Minimum half hour after doing the epoxy. I use a 2.0 setup with Ti, it's very gluey. After a few hours epoxy needs sanding before next coats, so doing it as above saves work. 2k paint does need a mechanical key or it can peel off in sheets like a plastic coating. But while a layer is inside a certain time window, the next coat can bond to it. There's a good sticky here, and other threads in this section, about 2k & safety: www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=41Check the spec sheets for the activators (not the paint), to see whether or not they contain isocyanates. Epoxies mostly don't I think. So the epoxy + green ti could be totally free of iso's, but do check. |
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'66 Amazon <-> '94 LS400 <-> '86 Suzuki 1135 EFE
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2K top can be used wet on wet on 2K primer though, can't it? I hope I wasn't looking like I was saying it needed no mechanical key, just that it needs less than celly or 1K does so you can flat your primer finer with 2K than with old school paints. I'll try a 2.0 tip next time I use Ti - I think last I used it was with a 1.8 and it was quite orange-peely. But as its easy to sand I was happy enough, but it does mean you waste material!  |
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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The world turns flourescent green doesn't it... ;D Seems to lay quite nicely with decent pressure, not that it matters, like you say that bit will end up on on the floor/clothes etc anyways... With primer and 2k colour I reckon so long as the prev coat is well flashed, the next can go on no probs. There are special wet-on-wet primers, no idea what's meant to be different with those, but I'm far too tight to bother anyway Re flatting, I go a bit coarser for 2k just because it covers well, so thinking save a bit of work. Like 600 for 2k top, 800 for basecoat (block/hand not DA like). No idea if that's right/wrong/professional, but seems to work. |
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'66 Amazon <-> '94 LS400 <-> '86 Suzuki 1135 EFE
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Jun 13, 2012 15:36:34 GMT
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good info / tips / thoughts.
I've another paint job (or three) coming up, I'm going to get one right sooner or later...
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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bl1300
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,678
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Jun 13, 2012 20:55:58 GMT
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I prepped the paint on a bus that I'm currently repainting like such. Mind the overall finish is being done with rollers that can hide a lot.
1. Washed thourighly
2. areas where somebody had painted with household gloss where attacked with 80grit DA pads
3. Crazed paint was taken back to a smooth surface using 180 then 240 grit succesivelyl.
4. All good paint has been keyed with 240grit.
5. Cleaned of with panel wipe degreaser
6. flatted between coats with 400grit wet and dry.
It seems to be going on nicely and ive just finished one side after 12 hours of prep. But as I said earlier I'm doing it with rollers as that the way my mate wanted it done.
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Current fleet.
1967 DAF 44
1974 VW Beetle 1303s
1975 Triumph Spitfire MkIV
1988 VW LT45 Beavertail
1998 Volvo V70 2.5
1959 Fordson Dexta
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Jun 14, 2012 17:46:04 GMT
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Pics... |
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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