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May 29, 2012 12:16:11 GMT
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I'm now starting to think about getting paint for my Hijet. I've got a compressor and a half decent Gun. The van is paper thin so theres little imperfections here and there which is why I want to paint it satin.
Need some advice on whether to use two pack, Military type stuff or some other industrial coating. Will need a decent hi build primer to lay under it and ideally don't want to spend to much cash.
Plan is to paint in a open ended shed with plastic and card to make a clean space.
Any advice much appreciated.
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1970 Porsche 911E
2002 Porsche Boxster S
2002 Peugeot Partner 1.9sdi
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May 29, 2012 14:23:49 GMT
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2k is most durable but dangerous - have a read up, ideally want an air fed mask. A few have come a cropper taking a chance with it.
2k epoxy, high-build, then colour. Satin is difficult to spray well - the amount of sheen varies with how it's sprayed; wetter makes it glossier. Also what you spray is what you get, you can't polish it or sand it.
Matt's easier but scratches up more easily.
2k takes a while to dry so more time for suicide bugs to find your paint.
Celly is very user-friendly, dries fast (less chance of bugs and curse word landing).
Synth enamel is cheap, but nasty. This is the 'mil stuff', there's nothing military about it though, it's just a type of paint. Often used for NATO or olive green. Used on Landies and commercials.
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'66 Amazon <-> '94 LS400 <-> '86 Suzuki 1135 EFE
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Has Rustoleum fallen from favour?
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1937 Austin Street Rod - 1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1976 Rover V8 - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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May 30, 2012 13:01:39 GMT
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I've found rattle-cans work pretty well - but decent high-build primer is a must for a "smooth" look
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You're like a crazy backyard genius! |
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May 30, 2012 20:43:19 GMT
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I've got two cans of rustoleum sitting in the shed but want that satin finish.
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1970 Porsche 911E
2002 Porsche Boxster S
2002 Peugeot Partner 1.9sdi
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`state
Yorkshire and The Humber
Posts: 1,215
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Theres nothing wrong with the synth enamel or military paint from ebay.My mates sprayed afew cars with it now and it lasts well and goes on easy.I sprayed a vespa with some i got from jawells years ago and it was a doddle to use.
Sure that the Area52 guys used it too with good results.
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Look at all the plastic people who live without a care.Try to sit with me around my table,but never bring a chair.
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craig1010cc
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,993
Club RR Member Number: 35
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May 31, 2012 10:30:01 GMT
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The paint we used to paint My NX5, Bens Volvo and Ryans Micra was really good stuff, and went on really nice and evenly. I can't remember the manufacture mind (hopefuly bruce will be along here in a bit  ) but would (will) use it again. Bruce did use a different manufacturer for the delica and dirtbag |
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May 31, 2012 11:14:59 GMT
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The paint we used to paint My NX5, Bens Volvo and Ryans Micra was really good stuff, and went on really nice and evenly. I can't remember the manufacture mind (hopefuly bruce will be along here in a bit ) but would (will) use it again. Bruce did use a different manufacturer for the delica and dirtbag Agreed. I was really impressed with it. The only problem was the choice of thinners was the internet suggestion of white spirit. It took a flipping age to dry and another to harden  Bruce then changed to a different manufacturer to paint the Delica and Dirtbag but used proper thinners. I'm not sure if it was the manufacturer, choice of thinners or a combination that significantly improved drying times. I wouldn't bother attempting it for gloss finishes, but for a satin finish it's really good stuff. |
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...proper medallion man chest wig motoring. |
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craig1010cc
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,993
Club RR Member Number: 35
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May 31, 2012 11:27:53 GMT
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It was the paint manufacturer that recommends white spirits (or MV thinners as they sell it ) but they will all work with celly thinners (as does rustoleum ) and that is the way that I'd be doing it. |
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I've got two cans of rustoleum sitting in the shed but want that satin finish. thought they did a satin finish as well? |
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1937 Austin Street Rod - 1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1976 Rover V8 - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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I've got two cans of rustoleum sitting in the shed but want that satin finish. thought they did a satin finish as well? Got mine on the cheap so didn't have a choice. The military stuff sounds promising. If anyones got any names/ebay shops they recommend that would be grand. Whats the least likely paint to react with old paint and best primer to help combat reactions? The vans definitely had a touch up in its time but not sure what paint. Does the mili stuff even need primer or is a good few coats sufficient if I just primed the areas i've attended. Cheers |
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1970 Porsche 911E
2002 Porsche Boxster S
2002 Peugeot Partner 1.9sdi
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Synth enamel will take any thinners. Celly is more aggressive, white spirit is slow so it's good for gloss. Lets it flow out smooth. I used 2k thinners with it when I did my ex-mil Landy.
You can use a "rocket" to speed it's setting called Terebene (or similar spelling). matt/satin seems to dry a lot faster than gloss though.
It's cheap stuff though and fades for England and is known as "knacker lacquer" for a reason. Like I said it's used on Landies and commercials, and not production or refinish.
Fine for a cheap quick job but quality wise it's not a patch on 2k. There's nothing particularly "mil" about it, that's just a colour, although it was used on mil vehicles because they'd often slap paint on quick & dirty style when they landed somewhere. My bonnet had layers of green and desert paint.
Any local auto paint supplier can mix up synth in NATO green to the BS paint code. Over the web, Jawel are good folks.
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'66 Amazon <-> '94 LS400 <-> '86 Suzuki 1135 EFE
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craig1010cc
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,993
Club RR Member Number: 35
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The mil paint we used was so inert, it'll go over anything. I had a spot on the front wing, and no matter what primer I tried, it kept reacting. We went with a 'sod it, what's the worst that could happen' approach, no reaction at all  As to priming, depends on how many coats, what colour and what colour(s) are below. My MX was red and silver, but the PRU blue covered it evenly in 1 coat (it still got a 2nd ), ryans Micra what white with black bits, the 1st coat of the royal blue and the black was still showing through, but once the 2nd coat was on, all looked great and even I would though make sure that any bare metal has a coat of gloss over it 1st, not sure if the mil paint is porous or not like primer |
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craig1010cc
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,993
Club RR Member Number: 35
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Some good info here cheers guys. Is the synth enamel stuff (ebay military stuff) porous?
Also if I was to go 2k are the non air fed masks safe enough for a one off and do I need a certain type of goggle as i've heard the eyes can absorb the paint.
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1970 Porsche 911E
2002 Porsche Boxster S
2002 Peugeot Partner 1.9sdi
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I've had a lot of requests recently for details on the paint used (as Trg1984 proves). Here is a copy of the response I sent him this morning: "I got my paint from Cobbaton Combat in Devon. They list it about 3/4 of the way down the page: www.cobbatoncombat.co.uk/sales/misc.htm
It was £37 when I bought mine plus about £5 delivery. It's pretty good stuff and 5L will get you a long way (enough for two cars easily).
I thinned mine down with anti-bloom thinners which I bought from a local car paint shop. I can't remember how much I thinned it down, I just put a load of paint in the gun, sploshed in some thinners, cap on and gave it a shake. If I didn't like the way it came out of the gun I just added a bit more thinners (but it was usually fine first guess). If I were to estimate how much thinners, I'd reckon about 20%, maybe 25%. Much more and it starts to go more glossy and also more risk of runs although it's a pretty forgiving paint and dries very quickly too!"
When we did the three cars on the spray weekend I'd got the paint from a different supplier but I can't for the life of me remember who? It was all last minute because the original paint supplier had let me down and I had to find someone sharpish on my phone while on a filmset in London only days before the cars were due to be painted.
The three original cars (Volvo, MX5 and Micra) we measured out the white spirit fairly carefully but for my Delica and the Teenage Dirtbag I just used judgement.
The paint doesn't seem to be porous at all. My Delica had some light damage on the rear corner when I bouhgt it. I simply rubbed down the surface rust back to clean metal and blasted over with the NATO green. That was 2 years ago and the car has been out in the elements ever since, never washed and pretty much abused. Not a hint of any rust coming through.
I didn't use primer either, just ran a scotchbrite pad over the original paint to scuff it up then straight on with the NATO (after a degrease with panel wipe and a tack cloth)
Despite all the abuse I've given the Delica and complete lack of washing it's had, the car still looks good today and still gets comments and requests about the paint. I'd happily use it again.... |
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1970 Porsche 911E
2002 Porsche Boxster S
2002 Peugeot Partner 1.9sdi
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) but would (will) use it again. Bruce did use a different manufacturer for the delica and dirtbag
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