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May 24, 2012 20:49:33 GMT
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My drill bits are cheap wibblepoo. They blunt quickly and snap easily - And no, I am not trying to drill stainless steel at 8 million RPM or anything stupid!
Enough is enough though and I want a decent set and will spend the money - what do people recommend?
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1986 Panda 4x4. 1990 Metro Sport. 1999 Ford Escort estate.
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v8ian
Posted a lot
Posts: 3,832
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May 24, 2012 21:13:59 GMT
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Dorma---
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Atmo V8 Power . No slicks , No gas + No bits missing . Doing it in style. Austin A35van, very different------- but still doing it in style, going to be a funmoble
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I use Sutton drills, but as they're Australian-made you probably won't find them in the UK. My recommendation would be to just go for plain black HSS drills, in the best quality you can find. Don't bother with any fancy coatings, they don't last all that long and are a waste of money in my opinion. Just buy good plain HSS drills and replace as necessary.
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Ive got the same problem!There's three self tapping srews holding the sunroof in my Granada that wont come out. Probably gone through five HSS drill bits trying to get one out.Still not managed it. Also, any ideas on something specific to drill out spot welds?Sorry to semi hijack!
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I use bog standard dormer jobber bits for most things, but I do have a proper sharpener to keep them keen. I would avoid buying a set (unless on some offer that makes them cheaper) and just buy the ones you want, as most sets start at 1mm and go up in 0.5mm increments you end up not really using the first 4 bits of any set you buy. I've not used the TiN ones much (as my dads work don't use them ) but they are good and look all pretty and goldeny For spot welds i've got a few dormer HSCo spot weld drills, they are awesome. But quite pricey at around £15-20 each. They are designed for boron steel so drilling through "old tat" is no bother for them IME
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1977 datsun 810 180b estate
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May 26, 2012 11:33:19 GMT
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Dormer here, buy them when they come up cheap. Although apparently they're made in China now they still seem good. Hard self tapper might be a case for a cobalt bit?
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'66 Amazon <-> '94 LS400 <-> '86 Suzuki 1135 EFE
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Dez
Club Retro Rides Member
And I won't sit down. And I won't shut up. And most of all I will not grow up.
Posts: 11,790
Club RR Member Number: 34
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Drill bitsDez
@dez
Club Retro Rides Member 34
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May 26, 2012 11:40:49 GMT
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yeah, generally dormer here too, i tend to buy handfulls of old ones dirt cheap off the car boot and resharpen em, as you know they're the older better quality ones then.
the ti coated bosch ones, or even the silver uncoated ones they do are very good as well.
to be honest though, even the cheap heller ones machine mart sell seem to be pretty good, ive bought a few larger ones (12mm+) for one off jobs cos they cost so little, they're all under a fiver each, and ive only ever had to resharpen one, and i was giving it some serious abouse.
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May 27, 2012 22:49:44 GMT
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I was given a set in a fancy box, branded "Piranha". I don't know where they came from, nor does the mate who gave me them. They're remarkable, I've drilled steel, concrete and hardwoods with them, and they still remain keen.
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scruff
Part of things
Posts: 621
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I bought a full set of numbered drills a few years ago from RDG tools, yes they are funny sizes (Not imperial or metric) but there is always one the right size or within a whisker of the right size.
Learn to sharpen them properly and even nasty cheap ones can be made to work a bit, they jsut need resharpening regularly.
Spent a boring half hour in preston post office waiting for something tedious and watched a guy drilling the lock on the cash point (I assume it was legit....!) he'd run the drill for 5-10 secs pushing really hard, change it out for another bit, resharpen another bit in a few strokes on a little grinder and drill again, over and over again. Looked like a long job! But he'd resharpen the drill in 2-5 secs.
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1994 Lotus Esprit - Fragile red turbo with pop up lights. 1980 Porsche 924 - Fragile red turbo with pop up lights.
I spy a trend...
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May 28, 2012 12:38:00 GMT
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I got some on a vat free weekend from Machinefart, cant remember the make though...
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Koos
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May 29, 2012 12:20:22 GMT
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Is sharpening older bits, good quality ones, something that an amateur could have a go at? Is it as simple as it sounds?
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scruff
Part of things
Posts: 621
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May 29, 2012 14:41:36 GMT
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No but it's something you can learn. Problem is getting the split point perfectly symmetrical. Get a bench grinder and have a go.
I'm OK at it and can produce a usable sharp bit but sometimes it takes me a few goes. a practiced hand can do it in a few seconds.
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1994 Lotus Esprit - Fragile red turbo with pop up lights. 1980 Porsche 924 - Fragile red turbo with pop up lights.
I spy a trend...
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May 29, 2012 21:15:54 GMT
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I use cheap drills in my pillar drill. Slow speed, and some lube and they work well. I re-sharpen as required, but find that as long as you employ good drill technique, even the cheap ones work well.
In a hand held battery or mains drill, however, I seem to blunt them in moments. Too fast and not enough pressure.
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May 29, 2012 21:30:41 GMT
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I was given a set in a fancy box, branded "Piranha". I don't know where they came from, nor does the mate who gave me them. They're remarkable, I've drilled steel, concrete and hardwoods with them, and they still remain keen. I've had Piranha from B&Q before, not the best or the worst. Is sharpening older bits, good quality ones, something that an amateur could have a go at? Is it as simple as it sounds? Yes it is with practice (Just like everything) If you get two nuts together it gives the angle of 120 and for a drill it should be 118. Just remember that the point that starts to cut the metal is the highest point and then it tapers away. Difficult to explain but so easy to show! John
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