|
|
Nov 11, 2006 19:22:29 GMT
|
right then, there could be a possibility of me acquiring one of these little beasties, so i can put the 1275GT in the garage for the winter. ive been looking around for a while and they look good standard, but i want it to follow my usual modifying ways of, wider wheels, a splitter, bigger arches and maybe a ducktail spoiler does anyone have any info on any tuning body parts or wheels for the dolly sprint? i found the below picture which is what id love mine to look like, the chap who owns it is dutch so hard to understand his site, id love to know what arches/wheels he is running and also where u get that front splitter from!
|
|
|
|
|
|
Nov 11, 2006 19:24:28 GMT
|
LewisK step up to the ochey
|
|
|
|
|
|
Nov 11, 2006 20:36:21 GMT
|
ooo. they look pretty ace as standard like.
lewisK is your guy though.
|
|
|
|
|
dolomite sprintarthurbrown
@GUEST
|
Nov 11, 2006 21:32:55 GMT
|
Anything too wide is going to cause issues wheel-wise. These are 8's at the rear. Look freakin' ace but foul on the inside of the wheel / arch, despite being ET0 or something. Surgery is required! Splitter can be had 'off the peg' though
|
|
|
|
|
|
Nov 11, 2006 22:12:26 GMT
|
so what the heel wheels/arches is he running on that beasty then? and what exactly did u mean by off the peg??
so its basically a case of u can only run standard sprint wheels and best and no stick on arches??
|
|
|
|
|
dolomite sprintarthurbrown
@GUEST
|
Nov 11, 2006 22:38:50 GMT
|
I believe that splitters can be had from 'Rimming Bros'.... W/O arches, then about 6in width is about the max before fouling issues kick in
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Controversial I know, but I suspect that a bit of stretching would avoid the arch requirement!
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
would look ace if u got it to look like the race one
|
|
|
|
|
dolomite sprintarthurbrown
@GUEST
|
|
You're absolutely right RMad, stretch probably would cure it. However stretched rears and not stretched fronts (6in) might look odd, and stretching over 6in rims doesn't leave you alot of 'contact area' which is mildly worrying.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Nov 12, 2006 10:37:19 GMT
|
175/60 all round.
|
|
|
|
Kyle67
Part of things
Posts: 554
|
|
Nov 12, 2006 10:43:14 GMT
|
My old Magenta rat Sprint was lowered and had 205/60's on with no fouling issues.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Nov 13, 2006 18:48:51 GMT
|
You can run up to 210's without too much grief... just ;D Sprintparts are where you want to go for your arch/body requirements. They're an excellent company and between me and my dad we've had quite a lot off 'em - brake kits, body parts, the works. A really excellent company and great shipping - can get stung at import mind but if you're prepared for it, that's fine. www.sprintparts.triumphowners.com/products.cgiThey sell the a deeper front chin spoiler, for standard cars (as a Sprint SHOULD have a under-bumper spoiler fitted as standard) as well as a very deep front spoiler for use in conjunction with their arch kit : They also sell a rear spoiler, similar to mine : Prices are all in australian dollars, btw So dirt cheap. Tuning parts are availiable from Robber Bros, Quiller Triumph, Moss, Jigsaw Racing, Kent & pipercross used to (I think they still do!) cam Kits for them, availiable from Need For Speed UK...... A well built, blueprinted Sprint engine on tweaked (for airflow & fuelling) HS6s with a panelfilter should be able to reach up to 150BHP with no difficulty. Best bet is Magnecor ignition leads, retain the standard airbox but fit a K&N panelfilter, Aldon flamethrower coil, Newtronic ignition, Kenlowe fan and so on...Sports exhaust is a must, release about 10-15BHP. Standard brakes should be fine in good fettle - EBC pads are well recommended from me and the Sierra conversion really stops them dead - or the Sprintparts conversion (which I've got at home) is a real beauty. Cost about 600 quid shipped tho Aeroquip hoses and a system rebuild are well recommended tho, to makes sure everything's in check. For the steering, get polybushed L&R rackmounts and a Rally Design intermediate coupling. Tightens up the feel nicely Other than that, after that point, you're into taking the engine apart and changing the fuelling. Can really recommend a pair of HS8 carbs running HS6 needles (have to be Jag ones) as these flow nicely and give a bit of a boost. After that it's Webers or Dellortos (45s, 40's aren't worth the hassle over the HS8s) or FI. In suspension department AVO or Gaz dampers are highly recommended along with 210lb front 175lb rear springs, or 175lb all round. No lower than 2" is recommended, for safety reasons. Anything else, just shout!
|
|
Last Edit: Nov 13, 2006 18:54:15 GMT by Lewis
|
|