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May 13, 2012 14:40:49 GMT
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Slightly modern content here, my apologies.
Our (stupid annoying hateful POS) 98 Kia Sportage had a fuel leak on one of the hard lines from pump to engine. Fixed this, had to change the in tank pump as one of the outlets on the top simply crumbled off, it was running fine before (besides the fuel literally pouring out of the damaged pipe. It now won't run at all.
It coughs, very occasionally, but refuses to run and idle at all?
Taken the hoses off the fuel filter, which let out some pressure from the engine side of it. Checked the plugs to make sure fuel was getting to the cylinders, which it is (though they weren't dripping with it like I thought they would be. Cleaned the plugs and chucked them back in as they've only done 200 miles, same as the coil packs.
This has gone from a weekend job to a month and I'm seriously considering setting fire to the bloody thing, as soon as this is done it's going up for sale and I'm getting a bit fed up with watching the MOT run down.
Anyone got any ideas? Going to put the battery on charge and try it again tomorrow. But I doubt anything will come of it, other than me putting another dent in it. Cheers.
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May 13, 2012 14:53:13 GMT
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I take it you have changed the fuel filter, as it might be clogged with the bits of the fuel pump outlet that crumbled away.
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1939 Francis Barnett Powerbike 1971 Honda C90 1992 Mitsubishi Lancer 1.5 GLX 1993 Fiat Panda Selecta 2003 Vauxhall Combo 1.7DI van
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May 13, 2012 14:59:20 GMT
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Hmmm, hadn't considered that as the pipe wasn't connected when it crumbled, I'd disconnected the flexi hose that joined the pump to hard line already, plus I blew through it. I'll swap it with the one out of my car (because it's never been used 'ahem') and see what happens. Good catch.
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May 13, 2012 15:22:11 GMT
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Have you primed the fuel system? I seem to recall that most injected stuff doesn't like starting stright off with an empty system - you have to turn the ignition on and off several times to run the pump enough to prime the system before going for a start.
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May 13, 2012 15:27:41 GMT
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^ this.
Also, make sure you have the send and return lines the right way round - it's often fairly easy to muddle them up, and the pressure regulator won't work properly backwards...
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To get a standard A40 this low, you'd have to dig a hole to put it in
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May 13, 2012 16:10:44 GMT
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Definitely primed the system, I didn't expect it to start straight away, so cranked it over for a minute or two, can hear the relay kicking in and having just swapped the filter for the one out of the Dolly, it's definitely pumping, it filled up in seconds. It did start and idle for about 10 seconds (I forgot that as I'm very angry with the bloody thing), spluttered and then died. It's only coughed since. The lines are definitely the right way around, I colour coded them when I removed them. A new development, that may not have anything to do with it. Whatever this is, has started buzzing. Anyone know what it is? Thanks for the help so far guys. Apologies in advance if I seem... Prickly. I feel like I've wasted a day I could have used on my car.
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May 13, 2012 17:38:12 GMT
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you sure that you have the correct fuel pump fitted ?
sound like you mite have fitted a low pressure primer pump not a high pressure pump.
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May 13, 2012 17:51:09 GMT
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Yes. The pumps are completely identical. The first pump I bought was wrong (though I made £50 on it when I sold it on eBay, every cloud), so I made extra sure with the second one.
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May 13, 2012 20:16:04 GMT
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isnt that the idcv?take it off and clean it throughly with carb cleaner, sounds like its stuck!! so it wont run!!
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Last Edit: May 13, 2012 20:18:04 GMT by rwdrules
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May 13, 2012 22:18:29 GMT
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IDCV? Assuming that means Idle Control Valve. Is it? I don't know, it's just a thing with some tubes and electricity going to it to me! Will (try and) pull it apart tomorrow and see what happens.
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May 15, 2012 18:06:57 GMT
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IDCV? Assuming that means Idle Control Valve. Is it? I don't know, it's just a thing with some tubes and electricity going to it to me! Will (try and) pull it apart tomorrow and see what happens. Looks like an Idle air control valve to me. It looks like the Bosch one (or an Asian rip off off a Bosch one) I've seen on stuff like Mk3 Golfs and Peugeot 306's. The Bosch ones are known for getting gummy and ruining the idle. Have you tried giving it full accel pedal and craking it over for a good while? It's a very Old Skool method but it's brought a few reluctant moderns back to life for me before. When it finally starts it's also quite satisfying (but not mechanically nice) to rag the spuds off a hateful car thats been refusing to start too. Good luck. Rob
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'55 Austin A30
'71 MGB GT
'72 Datsun 240 shed
'72 Mercedes 240D
'79 Firebird
'86 Austin Maestro Van
'91 Mercedes 250D
'91 BMW e34 535i Sport
'92 Mazda MX-5
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bortaf
Posted a lot
Posts: 4,549
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May 15, 2012 18:20:12 GMT
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full throttle and cranking shuts the fuel off, that's how you start an EFi thats flooded ? i'd try a CPS if the injectors aint firing ?
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R.I.P photobucket
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May 15, 2012 20:09:53 GMT
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Asian Flu?
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1991 Astra Merit, 1987 Nova Merit, 1996 Audi A4 Avant, 2001 Vauxhall Vectra 2.2CDTi, 1996 Ford Escort (Auto), 1989 VW Golf Mk2 GL4+E, 1991 VW Golf Mk2 GTI, 1982 MB W123 230E, 1995 Ford Fiesta Frascati. No car due to changing jobs, but looking for a project!
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CPS? Crank/Cam Position Sensor? Well the plugs were wet and smelt of petrol, so I'd assume the injectors are firing. I haven't had a chance to clean the valve yet as I have no carb cleaner (for shame) so I'm waiting for that to arrive. Battery is also on charge. Will clean this valve and see what happens. I'm reluctant to throw parts at it as we're on a tight (and ever decreasing) budget and it's not the correct way to do it. Electronics and sensors etc. are (obviously) my weak spot on fault diagnosis, but I am learning. Or trying to. We'll get there! Thanks guys.
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May 16, 2012 11:49:27 GMT
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I'd personally try spraying lynx deodorant into the airbox and then turning it over,it should start and run for about 5 seconds,hopefully this will be enough to drag the fuel through and any air that may have got into the system. There should be a little tyre valve on the fuel rail to release the pressure off it and this may give you a clue. Also reusing plugs is a really bad idea,I've found this to be the issue many times before and annoying though it is sometimes the only way is £15 on a new set.I once had this on a Corsa that id swapped an engine in,it came without plugs ( ?) and wouldn't fire,I squirted oil down the bores incase I'd lost sealing pressure but it wasn't that.found the immobiliser wasn't talking to the engine loom cos I'd swapped it complete.got it running but it missed like mad,new plugs and she ran sweet for the next 15000 miles,I only changed them as a precaution after that,the car was running perfect.
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May 16, 2012 12:04:10 GMT
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Haven't seen the little valve you mention, I'll have a look for it later. The thing is, it's done less than 100 miles on the new (well, current) plugs, so changing them will just completely annoy me tbh! The only reason I took them out was to check for fuel, I cleaned them up just because I could, they didn't need it at all. Basically, this is a vehicle we bought for the snow 2 years ago, as where we live, if it snows, you're stuck and it's basically been completely unused! Gets started once or so a month, when it starts. Carb cleaner still isn't here, I'm going to get cake.
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May 16, 2012 12:19:23 GMT
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Have you checked for a spark? If it sounds as though it has compression, and the plugs are wet, I'd be looking there first.
And how did you clean the plugs? Steel-bristled wire brushes kill spark plugs as they leave smears of conductive metal on the ceramic around the centre electrode.
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May 16, 2012 12:46:57 GMT
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In my experience NGK plugs, especially nearly new ones, stop working for ever if they get soaked in petrol. I have no idea why but it is very irritating if you run a Triumph PI as they like to soak the plugs.....
Nick
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1967 Triumph Vitesse convertible (old friend) 1996 Audi A6 2.5 TDI Avant (still durability testing) 1972 GT6 Mk3 (Restored after loong rest & getting the hang of being a car again)
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May 16, 2012 18:15:15 GMT
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They're Bosch plugs with the V grooves. Quick spray on the tips with WD40 and just wiped the crud off, then blew them out with an airline. Checking for spark would have been a great idea while I had it all in bits, frustration crept in, so I threw it back together in a grump. It spins over as usual, not speeding up randomly so appears to have compression (I know that's not the right way to know, I don't have a tester). Will pull it to bits again in a few days and have another go, when I don't want to set it on fire or put a hammer through the screen. I hate that bloody car.
Cheers.
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They're Bosch plugs with the V grooves. Quick spray on the tips with WD40 and just wiped the crud off, then blew them out with an airline. Checking for spark would have been a great idea while I had it all in bits, frustration crept in, so I threw it back together in a grump. It spins over as usual, not speeding up randomly so appears to have compression (I know that's not the right way to know, I don't have a tester). Will pull it to bits again in a few days and have another go, when I don't want to set it on fire or put a hammer through the screen. I hate that bloody car. Cheers. I know it's annoying but you really will need to change those plugs,and although they make most things superbly I find Bosch plugs a bit rubbish tbh,I've never had any success with them. Spraying with wd won't save them,just bite the very frustrating bullet and change them. Spray the airbox as I told you,that should actually get it running on the old dud plugs and see what happens. Where abouts are you?I could come and have a look if your anywhere near Aberdeen?
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