jonomisfit
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,789
Club RR Member Number: 49
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May 12, 2012 19:04:49 GMT
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Last Edit: Jan 28, 2024 18:22:24 GMT by jonomisfit
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Is there a bit of a story behind the Eight? It looks like it's had an interesting previous owner.
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jonomisfit
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,789
Club RR Member Number: 49
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The guy i bought it from didn't have many details. he got it from bristol in November.
the reason for the variety of panel colours is we swapped them out for better panels from the other 3 he was breaking.
The paint is interesting. I suspect kid of last owned.
I'm fairly tempted to keep it.
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welder
Part of things
Posts: 518
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May 13, 2012 10:53:07 GMT
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I'm sure I've seen that Morris somewhere before. May have been in Practical Classics. That's gonna annoy me now! The Avenger, by the way, is awesome.
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I'm not completely useless, I can be used as a bad example.
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May 13, 2012 12:07:20 GMT
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there was an article on roofchopping an 8 sreies e in custom car about a year or so ago, seen the car at avon park looks the buisness now! last i heard the guys gonna drop a turbo,d 1800 b series lump in it!
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barrett
Part of things
Plastic cars with metal doors BEST
Posts: 390
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May 13, 2012 15:26:53 GMT
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I'm sure I've seen that Morris somewhere before. May have been in Practical Classics. That's gonna annoy me now! The Avenger, by the way, is awesome. Yup, me too! The skull & x-bones and weird 'lattice' effect is hard to forget. Sadly I can't remember where either but I think Practical Cl***ics is the most likely place
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Somebody find me a Watling. £££ waiting! (Seriously, I want a Watling. Help me plzzzzz)
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May 13, 2012 19:49:13 GMT
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This car was owned by David Lillywhite from Practical Classics, I think he owned it for at least 15 years! I remember him pressing out dents from the roof with a bottle jack and bits of wood and completely rebuilding the engine. Shame it isn't on the road yet, but it looks much more complete than it was when he had it.
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1953 Austin A40 Somerset 1959 Austin A35 1958 Austin A55 Cambridge 1975 Vauxhall FE 2300S 1985 Austin Maestro 1.3 Base
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jonomisfit
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,789
Club RR Member Number: 49
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May 13, 2012 20:06:43 GMT
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I've just checked the logbook and Mr Lillywhites names on it, however it must have been a good while ago.
There's no dates for transfer of ownership, but there is a letter from DVLA to owner me - 2 back at the start of 2010, and the logbook transfer slip from lillywhite to him (no date on it though).
Its not very complete at the moment as is missing most bits.
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May 14, 2012 13:24:34 GMT
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AMAZING looking car there buddy, I love it on this website when something like this comes along, nice to see some real vintage on here.
Look forward to the build!
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jonomisfit
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,789
Club RR Member Number: 49
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May 16, 2012 18:27:27 GMT
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Hmmmm. We'll today I was driving a hire car at work a BMW 120d. I was quite impressed by how well this went really for an oil burner. It's half got me thinking that I might look at putting something like an engine and box from on of these into the morris. 122 BHP from the normal or 163 from the Msport one. Theres also 280lb ft of torque out of it too. If it can move 1340kg of 1 series well, should do good in the morris. Will need to have a bit more of a think. Started some very rough and ready CAD models to try looking at the chassis design. As I said very early rough model to get an understanding of what may fit where. the strange lines are rough profiles of where the body line is. Chassis positions are based off some rough calcs for suspension mounts, but not really finalised yet. Will probably move about a fair bit. The S type bending in the chassis are also me being lazy with my modelling and will disapear to straight joints when i'm settled on a design. Currently its been "triangle spammed".
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Last Edit: May 16, 2012 18:29:10 GMT by jonomisfit
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jonomisfit
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,789
Club RR Member Number: 49
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May 27, 2012 18:46:23 GMT
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So i've been doodling a bit more in CAD very roughly at this point in time looking at the Morris. It seems quite tight getting two people side by side in the body with a spaceframe round them (or at least my two zombie simulates). But there does seem a lot of headroom there if I want to chop the top down a bit. I've also stripped a few bits off the shell to get it ready for whatever I plan to do to it. I was back up at my dads place this weekend so I had a look through some of his practical classics mags not such an easy thing as he has loads and I had no idea when David Lillywhite had the car. After a bit of searching found pics of it in one from 2001 along with one or two lines saying it hadnt been touched in ages. I'll be looking through some more when i'm back up in a couple of weeks and see if there's anything written about it. I ended up looking in the shed with the avenger in it. There might be space for two cars in my workshop....... I might bring this down too.
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jonomisfit
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,789
Club RR Member Number: 49
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Its been a pretty busy weekend as been of doing lots of other things, mainly indulging in my other passion - playing in a ska & punk band (www.facebook.com/akaizenblitz) so not been out the workshop much. Saying that, I managed to get an hour or so in the workshop today so made a start taking the morris appart. Was quite impressed by how easily the bolts undid, considering I was using metric spanners as I think the bolts may be whitworth not imperial (at least my imperial set fit worse than my metric set). I was less impressed by the poor poor quality of the [previous bodges at the bodywork. Not the best pic, but probably the best set of repairs made to the bodywork and their bad bad bad!I have a lot of cutting out and making new patches to do. The wings were nicelly bodged too where the lower inside faces were coated in fiberglass. This is the strangest bit though. Not sure what someone was up to, but it looks like they screwed a plate over a slot they cut in the body. Its got traces of filler round it too. I've also decided that when the car is complete and ready to go again i'll pay homage to its current paint job, so i took some photos for scale. I think a 2" brush is probably the right guage. I also decided I needed to upgrade the stereo in the workshop so have made use of the cheap spare PA system i've got lying around. It'll go loud enough to enjoy music over the top of grinding noise whilst wearing ear defenders, but suspect that wont make me popular if I try it.... This is also whats stopping me hitting the morris so far. I bought this ages ago and have just about got it ready to MOT and put back on the road. Its my workhorse for carting round any car parts / rubbish / moutain bikes. It needed a fair amount of repairs but is just about good to go now. Its painted very badly in satin black, my present favourite absence of colour. I'm also thinking about going for this material on the door cards etc. Currently on the bulkhead sound deadning panel.
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I'm surprised nobody has commented on your plans for this, they look pretty serious and involved, but seeing what you've got now you're starting to pull the Morris apart it does make quite a bit of sense as otherwise it'd likely just be a donor/scrap fodder I think.
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really looking forward to seeing this progress. Would love it if the rollcage at the rear could be extended a little to make it less obvious through the side windows (and give you a little more interior space). Brilliant engine idea too, very keen to see how the fit-up works
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Remade In Australia thereimaginarium.com.au
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Sophers
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 342
Club RR Member Number: 80
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Cool! I shall be keeping an eye on this ;D ;D
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jonomisfit
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,789
Club RR Member Number: 49
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Thanks for the comments.
I absolutely love the look of old cars, but i really want something that drives really nicely. Hence the significant changes. Saying that, its not really any different than if I was making a hotrod as they arent exactly brimming with original features.
If you were looking to restore a Morris 8 (or lightly modify) then this wouldnt be the starting point. It's do-able with the chassis / shell but there are better examples out there to start from. Pretty much the reason it was being broken when I bought it. The seller had another 6 or 7 of which 3 / 4 were deffinately for parts only, 1 was very restorable, and 1 was minty mint.
I was thinking something similar about the rear part of the cage but it may compromise it too much. I'll be doing some experimenting in CAD to see what I get. Irrespective of how the design goes, I'm still likely to be going for black limo tint in the back so you wont really be able to see the cage through there.
I'm away on holiday for a week, but i've spent the last few days working on some suspension designs. Once i've got something of note, or at least changed CAD models, done i'll post up about it.
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jonomisfit
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,789
Club RR Member Number: 49
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Jun 25, 2012 20:32:12 GMT
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So i've spent a load of time playing with some suspension designs and trying to get it to work ok (or at least on my software and CAD). It seems not bad now, but proof will be in the driving once done. As i've pretty much sorted this I started re-modelled the chassis and suspension components to suit my designs. Its still a work in progress and needs some additional structure added and some removed, the front end particularly. I'm going to stick it through my FEA package, but i've got to sort some mesh failure points first. Currently chassis weight is 90kg, so needs some more intelligence applied to reduce that a fair bit. I also got carried away and bought some new toys to use on the car when I start bodywork. A shrinker / stretcher and a bead roller. The rollers pretty cheap and flexible so have already bough some material to stiffen it considerably. In its current state it flexes so much it wont bead curse word all! I had 5 mins in the workshop so took the remaining bits off the car. I also though i'd try some exploratory passes with the rotary wire brush. The current paint just disapears as soon as it touches it. Removal should be nice and easy, although all of it will need to come off and re-start from etch prime. Not too supprised as its probably enamel paint onto bare steel I guess. All the work is now done on the caddy (just need to get 2 new tyres) so will hopefully be sending off for MoT and out the workshop shortly. I've also been quite busy with some band stuff that I do as we've just completed some studio recordings. We're sort of ska and punk inspired. If your on facebook check us out ( www.facebook.com/akaizenblitz ) as the recordings are up to play / download, and if you like us "like us"
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Last Edit: Jun 25, 2012 20:37:18 GMT by jonomisfit
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Jun 25, 2012 20:50:41 GMT
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Great posts so far dude nice to see a really retro motor too
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,960
Club RR Member Number: 174
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Jun 25, 2012 21:06:01 GMT
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This should be very cool when its done, though I reckon a very tuned older engine would suit it just as much as modern engine. My uncle used to have one of these which was rodded in the 70s. If you think that's bodgey you should have seen his. Had 6" widened rear arches made by chopping the originals in half, riveting 6" of oil drum in then clagging the lot in 4" of pog. Also had a Jag 6 in and a steering column top mount nailed to the wooden bulkhead, and seats self tappered into the floor lol.
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jonomisfit
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 1,789
Club RR Member Number: 49
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Jun 30, 2012 20:33:26 GMT
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So got a couple of hours in the workshop. This is the effect of waving the angle grinder wire brush in the direction of the paint. It just falls off. Should make it a less painful job to do when I'm ready for it, however there is a lot of surface area to go over. I was also looking at the roof dents and wondering what i'm going to do to pull them. I think the answer is to make keys up and use a slide hammer (gently) to pull back up. With the exception of 2, they are all above internal roof structure so cant be pushed / tapped back out from the inside. Slide hammer added to long long list of things to get. I saw some cheap bead rollers on ebay and figured cant have a rod(ish) car without swaged panels. I bought it expecting it to be pretty flimsy (single piece of cut plate) and it was. Good ones seem to have a box structure to them for rigidity. A single piece of 10 cut plate doesnt, especially when there's a slot up the centre of 80% of it. With a very light push (with my hand) it deflected about 10mm at the tip. I strengthened it a bit Its overkill but I couldnt be bothered calcing out something more appropriate. There was space for about 60mm wide strengther, so it got one. Pushing on the end as hard as I can produces almost no deflection that I can percieve. This should be stiff enough to give good beads. Fit the bead rollers and try it out. Works nicelly. The track marks are because I put it through a few times and just generally buggered about with it. Plus its only a small piece of plate. I also tried the shear rollers, which worked nicelly too. The crank handle is a bit curse word so I may try fitting a wheel of if i'm feeling really posh I may motorise it. I've also been on with a bit more CAD work. Mainly fixing some tube overlap issues that are failing the FEA mesh tool runs. Once i've tweaked these I should be able to run some analysis. The models arent really any different so there's little point in sticking them up again.
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Last Edit: Jun 30, 2012 20:39:44 GMT by jonomisfit
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