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this is a bad idea isn't it? ive got a big calorgas heater that can get everything nice and hot, but doesn't that increase the humidity (also bad)? what are my options? not painting it means more rust/aggro. ta.
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painting in the coldBenzBoy
@benzboy
Club Retro Rides Member 7
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I've found painting in winter to be a total pain in the backside, as I'm sure most people have. You could try heating the panel with a hot air gun, standing the paint can in warm water for a while... Alternatively, lag on some brush-on paint to cover the bare metal then rub down and paint properly once the weather's warm again.
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loon
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,092
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Hi dave, yes painting in the cold is not ideal because the paint can draw in moisture, but no paint is probabley werse.don't leave in primer either as it is porous. On a safty point, gas heaters have a flame? ALL solvent based paint is HIGHLY FLAMABLE so must be treated with care , have you thought of using a electric infer red patio heater they only heat the object not the air around it.
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what the fcuk have you done lately
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the idea was tho leave the fire on max for 1/2 an hour, then turn it off as i start to paint. ive really got to do the whole car in one go from bar coat, leave a week, primer, leave a week, paint. how much roughly are the ir heaters? ta.
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painting in the coldrustingdeathtrap
@GUEST
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Half an hour isnt going to do anything, you might as well not bother. You need to bring up the tempreture of the actual metal not just the air tempreture. A better idea, if its possible, would be to leave the heater on all night the night before to get it nice and toasty. Turn it off while your painting and while the paint flashes off because a space heater will blow curse word everywhere, right into your new paint. Then turn it back on while the paint cures.
The way works going on my escort at the moment i think i'm going to be looking at painting it in the coldest part of the winter. What i'm planning on doing is build a tent over the car out of bubble wrap, perhaps two or three layers over a metal frame and sealing it up to keep the heat in and the dust out and running a pipe to the extractor and building a filter box to stop any dust getting sucked in. It'll also create a smaller space to heat up. You can rent industrial IR heaters and if your only going to need one for a weekend that's probably be a better bet.
I don't know if its a good idea leaving it a week between primer and top coats either, especialy in cold damp weather. Primer soaks up moisture like a sponge and it'll show up under the topcoat, also if you exceed the recoat window you can have adhesion problem and could find you new paint starts flaking off after a few weeks. If youve done all the prep work properly i don't see no reason why you cant get it done in a weekend. Or if thats out of the question try getting the shell done one weekend then doing all the removable panels the next.
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Leaving it a week should be OK so long as the car is stored somewhere dry and the primer is properly keyed.
As has been said, cold and damp are killers for paint (except POR15 which is designed to cure better in the damp, but I don;t advocate using it as a panel finish!)
Will celly and acrylic you'll get "bloom". A nasty milky discolouration of the paint. Its a PITA.
propane or other gas heaters will lead to condensation and other issues and an IR heater is better. I have a set of oil filled radiators which aren't bad but need to be on a long time to heat my garage up.
I'd forgotten how manky this time of year is for paint until the last couple of mornings.
Rent or borrow a spray booth!
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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or, if your going for a rat-ride... work away
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