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HAHA....now that I've seen the rate at which you work, I reckon you'll have this done & dusted just in time for the weekend. Or before. Are you keeping the alloys? Personally I reckon they quite suit it. Hoping to get it all done this week, will bring it to the next 52 meet. not keeping the wheels, don't like them and there to small.
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bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,971
Club RR Member Number: 71
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1986 Opel Monza GSEbstardchild
@bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member 71
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One radius arm and spring cup done. Weld the spring seat all the way round - or you'll be doing it again fairly soon I'm with you wheels are gash need to be a bit bigger
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Weld the spring seat all the way round - or you'll be doing it again fairly soon I'm with you wheels are gash need to be a bit bigger ahh that's why the original seats rot out, didn't think of that thankyou.
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second spring cup repaired now to weld the rest of the arm me and hardcore sorted out the ride hight and fitted the original wheels till i source the ones i want. much better
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foxy99
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,454
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Last Edit: May 5, 2012 1:00:37 GMT by foxy99
1974 Daimler Double-Six VDP 1965/67 Hillman Imp pick-up 1984 VW Polo breadvan 1970s Yamaha Twins (4) 1976 Honda SS50ZK1
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nice repair, your arms look far healthier then mine. Both my spring cups were worse than that, hence the large plates i put in before the new cups. That pic was the outer leg of the o/s arm, was a right git to weld in place. I also had to repair the inner leg on the n/s arm.
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bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,971
Club RR Member Number: 71
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1986 Opel Monza GSEbstardchild
@bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member 71
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May 12, 2012 11:18:07 GMT
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second spring cup repaired Much better now to weld the rest of the arm That didn't look good me and hardcore sorted out the ride hight and fitted the original wheels till I source the ones I want. much better Hmm - you planning on running it that height - you may find the drive "interesting" and need shares in both a fuel and tyre company Once you get your rear wheel arch below to the very top of a std wheel and tyre you start to radically change the rear toe on a Monza Incidently same happens once you go more than an inch above the tyre line which is where I am now having taken a lot of weight out of the rear of my car Incidently what spring arrangement have you used to get it that low
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me and hardcore sorted out the ride hight and fitted the original wheels till I source the ones I want. much better Hmm - you planning on running it that height - you may find the drive "interesting" and need shares in both a fuel and tyre company Once you get your rear wheel arch below to the very top of a std wheel and tyre you start to radically change the rear toe on a Monza Incidently same happens once you go more than an inch above the tyre line which is where I am now having taken a lot of weight out of the rear of my car Incidently what spring arrangement have you used to get it that low In that pic it is with lowered cav springs, and as u said the drive was horrible. mainly due to the springs being to weak so they just coil bound themselves. I have changed the springs and the rear archs are now about level with the tops of the tyres (will put a pic up tomorrow) Is that about right? I'm now useing skoda octavia vrs rear springs. Phil
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bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,971
Club RR Member Number: 71
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1986 Opel Monza GSEbstardchild
@bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member 71
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May 14, 2012 10:03:50 GMT
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In that pic it is with lowered cav springs, and as u said the drive was horrible. mainly due to the springs being to weak so they just coil bound themselves. Yeah that would be nasty I have changed the springs and the rear archs are now about level with the tops of the tyres (will put a pic up tomorrow) Is that about right? I'm now useing skoda octavia vrs rear springs. Phil tops of tyres plus or minus 20mm is spot on to keep the rear alignment in the right range Intersting choice of springs - can I ask some questions? Are they beehive springs (ie coils drop inside each other under compression) or parallel coils 1. what's the free length (uncompressed), 2. no of coils 3. wire size (and is it same diameter for complete spring length or does it thin out at the ends of the coils?
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In that pic it is with lowered cav springs, and as u said the drive was horrible. mainly due to the springs being to weak so they just coil bound themselves. Yeah that would be nasty I have changed the springs and the rear archs are now about level with the tops of the tyres (will put a pic up tomorrow) Is that about right? I'm now useing skoda octavia vrs rear springs. Phil tops of tyres plus or minus 20mm is spot on to keep the rear alignment in the right range Intersting choice of springs - can I ask some questions? Are they beehive springs (ie coils drop inside each other under compression) or parallel coils 1. what's the free length (uncompressed), 2. no of coils 3. wire size (and is it same diameter for complete spring length or does it thin out at the ends of the coils? Was fixing a vrs the other day and thought the rear springs might work, so i "borrowed" them and they fitted just right. will have to get back to you with some measurements. the wire size stays the same throughout the spring and they are beehive springs. will let you know the rest and get some pics and part numbers for you. Do you have any ideas on what springs to use for the fronts?
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bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,971
Club RR Member Number: 71
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1986 Opel Monza GSEbstardchild
@bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member 71
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Yeah that would be nasty tops of tyres plus or minus 20mm is spot on to keep the rear alignment in the right range Intersting choice of springs - can I ask some questions? Are they beehive springs (ie coils drop inside each other under compression) or parallel coils 1. what's the free length (uncompressed), 2. no of coils 3. wire size (and is it same diameter for complete spring length or does it thin out at the ends of the coils? Was fixing a vrs the other day and thought the rear springs might work, so I "borrowed" them and they fitted just right. will have to get back to you with some measurements. the wire size stays the same throughout the spring and they are beehive springs. will let you know the rest and get some pics and part numbers for you. Thanks Do you have any ideas on what springs to use for the fronts? Yeah std ones - just remove a full coil from the bottom of the spring ;D That will result in a fully located spring at full suspension drop so no MOT issues That should drop the front to tyre arch perfection with a std Monza GSE Nearly all the aftermarket spings are smaller wire and more coils so drop via sag rather than shorter springs Unfortunatly mine has a 3 inch gap between tyre and arch now on std springs with a coil removed....... I'm not going to even mention how high the rear end is but it's got "intersting" handling and I need some alternative rear springs soon Oh well it's 400 kgs lighter so at least it goes well!!!
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Jul 27, 2012 21:04:11 GMT
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oh curse word, ive got some work to do before the gathering.
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bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,971
Club RR Member Number: 71
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1986 Opel Monza GSEbstardchild
@bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member 71
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Jul 27, 2012 22:32:22 GMT
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oh curse word, ive got some work to do before the gathering. Nope you just need to find richard Lumbs thread on his monza front end repair - he had the same issue and I told him what I did to mine and he improved on it
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Jul 27, 2012 22:49:02 GMT
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how did you pull the strut tops into place and where do you measure from and what are the correct measurements? my strut tops don't move when i press on them, though it has had poor repairs i think the main cause is from me cutting the springs to much so its been hitting the bump stops.
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bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,971
Club RR Member Number: 71
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1986 Opel Monza GSEbstardchild
@bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member 71
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Jul 27, 2012 23:00:11 GMT
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how did you pull the strut tops into place and where do you measure from and what are the correct measurements? my strut tops don't move when I press on them, though it has had poor repairs I think the main cause is from me cutting the springs to much so its been hitting the bump stops. Read the whole thread - once you've done that ask any questions that aren't answered I didn't have a body jack so I used ratchet straps to the cross member and engine crane hydraulic ram to get the turrets out and down
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Jul 27, 2012 23:24:16 GMT
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cheers for the help BC, will get back to you if i get stuck. hopefully mark (colonelk) wont mind me dismantling his engine crane to make a porta power
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bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,971
Club RR Member Number: 71
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1986 Opel Monza GSEbstardchild
@bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member 71
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Jul 27, 2012 23:46:34 GMT
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cheers for the help BC, will get back to you if I get stuck. hopefully mark (colonelk) wont mind me dismantling his engine crane to make a porta power Tip of the day is two axle stands unde rthe cross member with the wheels just touching the ground (resting) cut the rot out - little leverage betwen the turrets and then welld a brace between the turrets til it's all sorted Then follow the Richards thread
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,309
Club RR Member Number: 170
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1986 Opel Monza GSEChasR
@chasr
Club Retro Rides Member 170
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Good to see you carrying on undeterred .
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