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Apr 23, 2012 10:59:41 GMT
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OK, not that retro but old-ish and need some advice, A lady of my acquaintance has an old Micra (late bubble shape thing) which is lighting the engine management light on the dash and the decode for this is that its "engine lean running condition".
Local garage has changed air filter and some other part I'm not sure of and now seem to want to replace the cat which seems odd to me.
Anyone any thoughts on this one
cheers
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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Apr 23, 2012 11:08:48 GMT
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Lambda sensor would me my first guess, certainly long before changing the cat. I'd be concerned that the garage don't know how to fix it. (I'd be scoping the front lambda sensor first, and changing it if it isn't switching. Cat health check can then be done by scoping the post cat lambda (which should read lean and not switch)
Worth also looking at fuel filter and rail pressure sensor in case it's a low fuel pressure problem... does it start and run ok?
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To get a standard A40 this low, you'd have to dig a hole to put it in |
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Apr 23, 2012 11:17:40 GMT
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It drives. Not sure how well...
Thanks for the suggestions I'll be back...
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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Apr 23, 2012 11:34:11 GMT
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OK, its a 2001 not a "late 90s) one. Its an auto if that makes a difference.
It runs "OK but a little rough". Its had one O2 sensor replaced as it was unresponsive (she can't remember which one but has the paperwork at home), Petrol filter replaced. Fault code Engine running too lean reappears constantly.
After the last repair it was fine until some motorway driving and then the code has reappeared.
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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Apr 23, 2012 12:59:59 GMT
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It's normal for codes like this to only appear after a longish run out - the ECU needs to complete a drive cycle including full warmup before it decides something is up.
New lambda? how long ago, OEM or aftermarket and which one.... (Front one does all the work, back is only for checking up on the catalyst) They don't last forever, and I've seen cheapo replacements fail surprisingly quickly.
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To get a standard A40 this low, you'd have to dig a hole to put it in |
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Apr 23, 2012 13:15:43 GMT
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She has been taking it to the Nissan main dealer so I assume they fit Nissan factory parts to it.
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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Apr 23, 2012 13:37:20 GMT
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I'd assume that too. Still, if it turns out that they fitted a lambda 5 years ago it might be worth looking at again  |
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To get a standard A40 this low, you'd have to dig a hole to put it in |
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Brigsy
Part of things
Posts: 617
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Apr 23, 2012 13:44:44 GMT
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Have they checked the fuel pressure?? if the pump or fpr is on its way out it wont be happy.
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Apr 23, 2012 13:45:42 GMT
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I believe all this is in the last few months. Will check.
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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markbognor
South East
 
Posts: 9,970
Club RR Member Number: 56
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I've just had this reply from Frank - who is a bit of a micra guru. "It's usually the bosch type maf on the coilpack ones eh mark, or else 2nd lamda, p0171 system lean bank1" Thread here |
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Cheers
so it would be a MAF replacement to sort this?
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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Apparently, the MAF was checked by Nissan and they say all is OK with it.
The lambda sensor (still not sure which but both were tested) was changed 2 weeks ago
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1941 Wolseley Not Rod - 1956 Humber Hawk - 1957 Daimler Conquest - 1966 Buick LeSabre - 1968 Plymouth Sport Fury - 1968 Ford Galaxie - 1969 Ford Country Squire - 1969 Mercury Marquis - 1970 Morris Minor - 1970 Buick Skylark - 1970 Ford Galaxie - 1971 Ford Galaxie - 1976 Continental Mark IV - 1976 Ford Capri - 1994 Ford Fiesta
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Apr 24, 2012 10:28:39 GMT
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Not sure about later models but earlier K11's are famous for getting dry joints in the throttle body causing rough running. It can be fixed with a soldering iron, some silicone sealant and an hour of free time, I've done a couple myself. I can't look now cos I'm at work but there's a brilliant guide on the internerd somewhere, Google something like "K11 throttle body fix" Obviously if the later ones are different (or it's a K12) I'll just shut up and politely retire  Rob |
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'55 Austin A30
'71 MGB GT
'72 Datsun 240 shed
'72 Mercedes 240D
'79 Firebird
'86 Austin Maestro Van
'91 Mercedes 250D
'91 BMW e34 535i Sport
'92 Mazda MX-5
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Apr 29, 2012 20:48:01 GMT
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again as said if we are talking a K11 model (chassis something similar to sjnfcak11******)
1-rear o2
2-dry joint on the maf. You can use an almera maf on them and swap the resistor over to correct the units calibration
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