Hi all
I recently bought myself a 1.0 mk2 fiesta with over 112k miles on the clock. When I first bought it, it had a small misfire due to a duff plugs so set about giving it a full service. no more misfire and sounded sweeter too.
(since then though i've covered around 2k miles) and have noticed a few problems...) weirdly, one I can't explain was a month or so ago when I'd been out and parked it up (engine was up to temp) came back an hour later and started it up to go home, and it was smoking blue for a good few minutes. (funnily enough it had been fine for ages before) and strangely it had cleared itself and hadn't happened since.)
I did however notice a drop in power (seemed somewhat lacking) however, no blue smoke and no loss in oil etc (never had to top it up since december over 2k miles ago!!)
so.. decided to put in some stop smoke which i'll explain why in a second
when I put the stop smoke in, the engine was already upto temp and when I got home (put the stop smoke in while up at the motor factors and drove home) when the engine had cooled etc, i had to go out and noticed a huge pickup in the throttle response "mainly round town" and seemed just a lot more nippier.
(although the engine wasn't smoking, the reason behind adding the stop smoke is because it contains a particular form of polymer which changes the oil's viscosity at temperature i.e stops the oil thining out and loosing compression and increases the shear limitations (as the stop smoke is also a thick gloop).
after much thought I reckon it might be worth trying a different oil (as at the time of doing the service I didn't have a haynes manual (i have owned a mk2 fiesta before though) and went on recommendation to try a 20w50 classic car oil (granville autosol roadster 20w50) this stuff > www.granvilleoil.com/product_info.php?prod_id=295
(after doing a bit of research into engine oils and so on.. I had come to the conclusion that its highly likely that the mineral oil above is breaking down under high temperature (norm running temp) hence why the stop smoke (with its polymer addative) increased the viscosity and brought back the compression/power.... might sound a tad far fetched but for those who are interested... the thread I started on XRTwo.com can be found here xrtwo.speedcentral.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=102901
So... here's my current dilema (of sorts)
the haynes indicates (multigrade/duckhams qxr or hypergrade) 10w30 Or 10w50 (but that was back in the 80's)... so now I have over 100k miles on the clock, would it best to assume at 15w oil will be better during winter cold starts, to allow for the wear? and as for 40/50 - would I be better going for 40/50 but a more modern oil??
the other question is... - it currently has the autosol roadster classic car oil stuff in and the stop smoke (and does appear to be a tiny bit sludgey (tiny amounts of sludge can be seen by removing the oil filler cap (around the rocker area).
would I be better... - A) running a Wynns engine flush through to remove as much as possible, sludge,stop smoke and the curse word mineral oil ? (which, many people advise"against" but.. many people who have said the engine flushes cause more harm than good, many have used the whole can!! (where on the wynns website on the engine flush, instruct you to only use "5%" of the tin's contents...
Or.. run a cheap oil through and then drain it and then put in good oil?
so far (from the results I've found from the link on xrtwo.com)
Castrol GTX 15w40 A3/B3 would be ok, however the phosphorus and zinc content is lower than the Mobil Super x1000 (also in that link on Xrtwo.com)
the other oil that beats the two above for the phosphorus and zinc content and appears to have better viscosity values etc etc is the morris lubricants gold seal classic 15w50...
it is a box standard 957cc OHV engine with no modifications with electronic ignition etc
any thoughts or opinions on my findings or most suitable oils for my little fiesta
Thanks
I recently bought myself a 1.0 mk2 fiesta with over 112k miles on the clock. When I first bought it, it had a small misfire due to a duff plugs so set about giving it a full service. no more misfire and sounded sweeter too.
(since then though i've covered around 2k miles) and have noticed a few problems...) weirdly, one I can't explain was a month or so ago when I'd been out and parked it up (engine was up to temp) came back an hour later and started it up to go home, and it was smoking blue for a good few minutes. (funnily enough it had been fine for ages before) and strangely it had cleared itself and hadn't happened since.)
I did however notice a drop in power (seemed somewhat lacking) however, no blue smoke and no loss in oil etc (never had to top it up since december over 2k miles ago!!)
so.. decided to put in some stop smoke which i'll explain why in a secondwhen I put the stop smoke in, the engine was already upto temp and when I got home (put the stop smoke in while up at the motor factors and drove home) when the engine had cooled etc, i had to go out and noticed a huge pickup in the throttle response "mainly round town" and seemed just a lot more nippier.
(although the engine wasn't smoking, the reason behind adding the stop smoke is because it contains a particular form of polymer which changes the oil's viscosity at temperature i.e stops the oil thining out and loosing compression and increases the shear limitations (as the stop smoke is also a thick gloop).
after much thought I reckon it might be worth trying a different oil (as at the time of doing the service I didn't have a haynes manual (i have owned a mk2 fiesta before though) and went on recommendation to try a 20w50 classic car oil (granville autosol roadster 20w50) this stuff > www.granvilleoil.com/product_info.php?prod_id=295
(after doing a bit of research into engine oils and so on.. I had come to the conclusion that its highly likely that the mineral oil above is breaking down under high temperature (norm running temp) hence why the stop smoke (with its polymer addative) increased the viscosity and brought back the compression/power.... might sound a tad far fetched but for those who are interested... the thread I started on XRTwo.com can be found here xrtwo.speedcentral.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=102901
So... here's my current dilema (of sorts)
the haynes indicates (multigrade/duckhams qxr or hypergrade) 10w30 Or 10w50 (but that was back in the 80's)... so now I have over 100k miles on the clock, would it best to assume at 15w oil will be better during winter cold starts, to allow for the wear? and as for 40/50 - would I be better going for 40/50 but a more modern oil??
the other question is... - it currently has the autosol roadster classic car oil stuff in and the stop smoke (and does appear to be a tiny bit sludgey (tiny amounts of sludge can be seen by removing the oil filler cap (around the rocker area).
would I be better... - A) running a Wynns engine flush through to remove as much as possible, sludge,stop smoke and the curse word mineral oil ? (which, many people advise"against" but.. many people who have said the engine flushes cause more harm than good, many have used the whole can!! (where on the wynns website on the engine flush, instruct you to only use "5%" of the tin's contents...
Or.. run a cheap oil through and then drain it and then put in good oil?
so far (from the results I've found from the link on xrtwo.com)
Castrol GTX 15w40 A3/B3 would be ok, however the phosphorus and zinc content is lower than the Mobil Super x1000 (also in that link on Xrtwo.com)
the other oil that beats the two above for the phosphorus and zinc content and appears to have better viscosity values etc etc is the morris lubricants gold seal classic 15w50...
it is a box standard 957cc OHV engine with no modifications with electronic ignition etc
any thoughts or opinions on my findings or most suitable oils for my little fiesta
Thanks
