|
|
|
|
|
Hi guys, I was fed up of driving my two seater pickup around as the family vehicle, so I brought myself a Mercedes W202 250D  Few questions though. When Mrs MiniDan was using it driving her to work the other day she ran out of fuel  AA came out to rescue her and while the guy was messing under the bonnet he noticed a rod was missing, so tied the part back.  My question is, what is it? I'm guessing it controls a flap in the intake pipe, but why? I'm not too sure if the vaccum hose was connect either, but it's got a massive hole in it anyway. Question two. I'm not too keen on the small looking wheels and skyward suspension. I've got some 16" wheels off a CLK that'll look better (I think) and I want to lower it a bit. Because it's the family/daily hack, I don't want sill scraping low, but a bit lower for looks and so it doesn't roll so much in the corners. I've read somewhere about it being a pain in the  changing springs on there and it's best to cut the springs while there attached. This isn't going to happen (Mrs MiniDan is very against cut springs) so how do you fit lowering springs properly? Thank you guys |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
That valve is used to close off the inlet from the air filter, so that the engine draws air through the egr valve.
They run better with the vacuum pipe pulled off from the egr valve and that flap removed.
|
| |
1988 Mercedes w124 superturbo diesel 508hp
1996 Mercedes s124 e300 diesel wagon
1990 BMW E30 V8 M60 powered!
1999 BMW E46 323ci project car
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
question 1: The bit that's broken, is part of the EGR system. When the EGR valve is open (the gold diaphragm on the left of the broken part) it also activates the piston setup, and that will close a butterfly, to make sure the engine "sucks" from the EGR. Remove the whole alloy section, and replace with a length of tubing. Blank off where the EGR is fitted to the exhaust manifold with a small section of steel. If it's a non-turbo, 1mm steel would be fine - thicker would be better though  Block off the vac pipes with something solid, as otherwise every time the engine tries to open the EGR system, it's just opening the whole vacuum system to atmospheric question 2: no idea  |
| |
You're like a crazy backyard genius! |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Superb. Cheers guys It all makes sense now I'll get blanking off. Done something similar with a few Vauxhalls in the past. I was curious becuase the first time you start the car of the day, its takes lots of cranking and stalling. It chugs/vibrates a fair amount as well inbetween tick over (600ish k/revs and 1600k), but after it's smooth as a Mercedes should be. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
I wouldn't cut the springs in situ. Here's how I take out Mercedes springs. This method has worked on my W115 and my W202. - On the front, jack up the car and support it on an axle stand so that the suspension is "free". - Undo the anti-roll bar attachment to the lower arm. - Put a trolley jack under the bottom wishbone and jack it up so that the jack starts to compress the spring. - Undo the inner wishbone bolts. These are 17mm from memory. Once the nut is removed, the bolt can be drifted out of the assembly with a suitable drift. I would mark the position of the bolts as they adjust the camber by way of eccentric washers. - VERY carefully lower the trolley jack. The lower arm will drop and the spring will be free to be removed. I try to position the jack so that the handle is pointing towards the front of the car. That way, I can crouch around the front when raising and lowering the jack, and I'm out of the way should things go wrong and the spring makes a bit for freedom! Obviously use a bit of common sense when doing it this way - these Mercedes springs have a LOT of stored energy (more than MacPherson strut springs it seems to me) and if it gets loose it could do some serious damage. Refitting is the reverse of removal. The tricky bit is getting the wishbone bushes to line up with the bracket so that the bolts can be inserted, but a bit of wrestling and jiggling will get them to line up. *Note: I can't remember if I also removed the shock absorber top nuts. I don't think I did... Also, apologies if I've missed any steps in this post... I may have forgotten some things!  As for the rears, I believe once the anti-roll bar drop links are undone and the shock absorber top mounts are undone, the trailing arm should drop (with some persuasion) low enough to remove the spring. My memory is hazy on this though! |
| |
Last Edit: Apr 7, 2012 21:37:21 GMT by BenzBoy
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Cheers BenzBoy ;D I think I remember reading you need a special tool to remove them the proper way? Anyhow, your description makes sense. Thanks  |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Cheers BenzBoy ;D I think I remember reading you need a special tool to remove them the proper way? Anyhow, your description makes sense. Thanks No problem mate. There is a special tool to do it properly, and it's rather expensive. However, UtterPiffle put up a guide on RR years ago about how to make your own. I haven't ever been able to find the thread though  . That would be the best of both worlds really! |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Apr 10, 2012 21:35:46 GMT
|
|
If you'd bought a slightly later Merc it would have lowered itself before too long when the springs snapped!
|
| |
Corsa Apology Champion 2014.
|
|
AA came out to rescue her and while the guy was messing under the bonnet he noticed a rod was missing, so tied the part back. 
. That would be the best of both worlds really!